Rebuilt T case on bench, have question

[island45]

Finally finishing up my transfer case (79 fj 55) rebuild and this afternoon I torqued the front drive output shaft to 115 lbs as stated in the FSM, then I installed the retainer with speedo drive with the same two shims I had removed. Next step is to install brake backing plate and drum and torque that nut. (I didn't do that because my backing plate and drum are on the old T-case of the still running vehicle) . The next step is to do the spring scale test but FSM says to disengage the front drive first. Well I decided to disengage front drive just to see how things rolled over and sounded that way. Without the lever/handle installed I was unsure which way was in or out for front drive. The plunger rod was currently in the inward 'pushed in' position and the front drive was locked with the rear drive and rotates with expected pre-load drag. So I pull the plunger out, typical friction and detents all good. But... The two shafts still turn together as one. I installed a new rear output gear and new clutch sleeve, but front output gear was like new so it stayed. I was very careful to install the clutch sleeve as in the FSM with the beveled edge facing outward to the installer as in the photo. Granted I have not installed drum and torqued it, and that may change things (?) But now is the time to open it back up if needed. First thing I should know is "Does pulling the plunger rod OUT disengage front drive or does pushing it in disengage front drive?"

 

[charliemeyer007]

Well if nothing else turn up, crawl under the existing unit and have some work the lever between 2H and 4H so you see what is moving. Small flash light and mirror could be real handy. Maybe one of those inspection camera's on a cable that plugs into your laptop or phone so you could do it yourself.

 

[island45]

Thanks Charlie! Of course that makes sense and it was pretty easy to see with a flashlight that pushing the round plunger rod inwards slides the clutch sleeve on the shaft to the rear, which should normally disengage front drive. But in my case (no pun intended) it doesn't. It's like the clutch sleeve insn't going back far enough for the internal teeth to let go of the front gear. I'm hoping it just needs the drum on and tightened to group all the sliding parts tightly together on that 2 piece shaft. I think I have an extra drum that I could bolt up. Unfortunately I put sealer on all gaskets so I'm not anxious to start pulling stuff apart.

 

[Living in the Past]

When the transfer case shifter is pulled back in the cab it pivots off the bolt on the transmission. This acts like a lever and pulls the shift rod on the front cone out to engage the front driveshaft.

 

[island45]

I should have been able to see that from the lever and bolt laying alongside it but once a guy is in his seventies it can be hard to remember how it all went together. Good thing I bought my '79 FSM forty years ago. I put another layer of tape on the cover last night. I'm gonna bolt a brake drum onto this thing and try it again, but it doesn't seem like that could be the problem. I will report back shortly.

 

[island45]

And the plot thickens..... The T case is essentially completed and ready to install onto the transmission, I understand this involves placing gears through the aperature on the side with one hand while sliding it onto the splined output shaft. But are there supposed to be TWO spacers involved in this process or did the old bonehead miss one somewhere in the depths of this thing. I somehow had the presense of mind to attach these spacers to a bearing and a thick washer for identification purposes when I tore it down a couple months ago. Without measuring they look the same diameter, but the one tied to the ball bearing is about 1/4" longer. Oh, and the two output shafts are still acting as one, no matter if front drive is in or out. I thought I was being VERY careful. WTF?

 

[island45]

OK, I did a mockup of the gear, bearings and spacers and yes it takes 2 spacers, two bearings and one gear so that part lays out just fine. Next I studied the clutch sleeve photo in the FSM and the Haynes with my new prescription glasses on and what had looked like a shadow was indeed the tapered,conical side of the sleeve. I confirmed this by watching the George video and there we have it. Clutch sleeve in backwards. Thanks George and maybe I shoulda gone to the eye doctor a couple months earlier. D'oh.....

 

[island45]

Am I correct in assuming I can remove the 4 bolt rectangular shifter shaft assembly and then the 5 bolts that hold the nose cone and remove the cone without getting into the rear output side? I have the 5 bolts out and the nose cone is being stubborn. Is this just my gasket sealer along with the machining in the fitment making it a struggle? It seems the two shafts would separate at the needle bearing. Looking at the drawing in the FSM would support that. I think I'll go find something else to obsess about for a while like maybe the lower unit my son busted off his outboard. Can't get a break this morning.

 

[peesalot]

the shift collar is in backwards

 

[island45]

Yes, I got that back in post#7. I got a chisel under the nose cone and eased it up and off. Gasket stayed intact, flipped the clutch sleeve collar added a little more gasket sealant and it's all great now.