If it's worth anything, I'd run it too.
Last edited:
Builds Welcome home Matilda - faded like your favorite pair of jeans (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter CruiserTrash
- Start date
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They did the same on GG from the rebuild shop. It's been fine. I didnt clean it up. Doesn't go above 187*
- Thread starter
- #383
Alright, radiator is definitely a me problem.
It’ll work fine. I just hate when stuff looks sloppy.
It’ll work fine. I just hate when stuff looks sloppy.
- Thread starter
- #384
Shop hangs with @yotadude520.
Traded some parts, he watched me mess with my carb. Drove a Vortec swapped 60 with an H55. I get it, I really do. I’ll keep rebuilding my 2F though.
Traded some parts, he watched me mess with my carb. Drove a Vortec swapped 60 with an H55. I get it, I really do. I’ll keep rebuilding my 2F though.
RevISK
SILVER Star
What’s up Will!
- Thread starter
- #386
New side quest: rear seat upgrades for the kids.
Headrests
Shoulder belts
Found a local buddy getting rid of of an entire 62 rear seat back - needed that for the headrest holder hardware.
Stripped the upholstery since I’ll wrap it with my existing upholstery. Total pain. Once you get the hog rings off the perimeter, there are some secret hog rings in the middle, buried inside the foam. I could cut them out, but as of now I have no clue how I’ll get new ones in there. I didn’t bother taking a photo, just trust me on this. It sucked. After that I peeled the foam off the metal frame. Just a heads up: it’s glued on, so if you get too aggressive it will rip. Slow and steady with a hand underneath gently breaking the glue bond.
Here’s the naked frame. Must have been from a humid climate.
So now what? There’s no rot but the surface rust is heavy, and I’m not gonna install it like that. I spent 10 minutes with a wire brush in a drill to get the result you see above. At that rate I might have it sand blasted - it’ll get in the nooks and crannies better than a wire wheel anyway.
I also ordered two shoulder harnesses from Seat Belt Planet which should arrive this week. I have front belts from SBP and they work great. The brown color is slightly more red than either the early or late 60 Cordovan Brown, but they’re pretty close. The issue here will be the cargo panels. On a 60 the panels come all the way to the door opening. On a 62 with shoulder belts the panels end short of the door to leave room for the belt retractor that’s bolted near the door opening. Toyota had a plastic cover for that, but it’s been impossible to find any. I’d take whatever color and spray paint them, but it doesn’t matter … still can’t find any. I think about a year ago I saw some for sale for like $500, which I’m not going to pay.
So for now I’ll stick a set of my own deluxe cargo panels in there, the 62 variety, and run with exposed body work around the belt retractor. That will bother me, but at least the kids will be safer in the back.
On deck: L-tracks for the cargo area. On trails our gear always slides around, sometimes tumbles into the dog, and generally makes a mess. The tracks will give me some options for strapping down cargo. I got a rivnut setter I can borrow as well as some proper hardware and rivnuts on the way. I’d through bolt the tracks but … I ain’t dropping the fuel tank to get under there. No way. If anyone has tips or tricks on this let me know. Where’s the best placement? That’s my main concern, because once the rivnuts are in, I’m committed.
Headrests
Shoulder belts
Found a local buddy getting rid of of an entire 62 rear seat back - needed that for the headrest holder hardware.
Stripped the upholstery since I’ll wrap it with my existing upholstery. Total pain. Once you get the hog rings off the perimeter, there are some secret hog rings in the middle, buried inside the foam. I could cut them out, but as of now I have no clue how I’ll get new ones in there. I didn’t bother taking a photo, just trust me on this. It sucked. After that I peeled the foam off the metal frame. Just a heads up: it’s glued on, so if you get too aggressive it will rip. Slow and steady with a hand underneath gently breaking the glue bond.
Here’s the naked frame. Must have been from a humid climate.
So now what? There’s no rot but the surface rust is heavy, and I’m not gonna install it like that. I spent 10 minutes with a wire brush in a drill to get the result you see above. At that rate I might have it sand blasted - it’ll get in the nooks and crannies better than a wire wheel anyway.
I also ordered two shoulder harnesses from Seat Belt Planet which should arrive this week. I have front belts from SBP and they work great. The brown color is slightly more red than either the early or late 60 Cordovan Brown, but they’re pretty close. The issue here will be the cargo panels. On a 60 the panels come all the way to the door opening. On a 62 with shoulder belts the panels end short of the door to leave room for the belt retractor that’s bolted near the door opening. Toyota had a plastic cover for that, but it’s been impossible to find any. I’d take whatever color and spray paint them, but it doesn’t matter … still can’t find any. I think about a year ago I saw some for sale for like $500, which I’m not going to pay.
So for now I’ll stick a set of my own deluxe cargo panels in there, the 62 variety, and run with exposed body work around the belt retractor. That will bother me, but at least the kids will be safer in the back.
On deck: L-tracks for the cargo area. On trails our gear always slides around, sometimes tumbles into the dog, and generally makes a mess. The tracks will give me some options for strapping down cargo. I got a rivnut setter I can borrow as well as some proper hardware and rivnuts on the way. I’d through bolt the tracks but … I ain’t dropping the fuel tank to get under there. No way. If anyone has tips or tricks on this let me know. Where’s the best placement? That’s my main concern, because once the rivnuts are in, I’m committed.
RevISK
SILVER Star
Why not just Ospho the seat?
- Thread starter
- #388
Got a gallon of it. I just think it would take many, many rounds of the stuff to do anything. There isn’t any rot, but the surface rust seems kind of thick. Maybe it’s worth trying one pass with Ospho and then using the wire wheel, then maybe a finish round of Ospho.
The only stuff I’ve ever seen like this was things in my grandma’s attic in South Florida. Every piece of clothing with a zipper, steel ashtrays, metal picture frames, etc.
I agree with the sandblast method here, find a local shop and it’s probably worth the $50
- Thread starter
- #390
Sure seems like the easy button, right?
I resisted for a while on my axles, convinced I would just wire wheel them. Hindsight it was a no brainer.
- Thread starter
- #392
Even if there’s a minimum charge, I have some other things I could bring along too. I used to DIY everything, but as I get older I realize the assett I have the least of is time. I may not have a lot of money and I still enjoy DIYing stuff, I’m just less stupid about it these days.
EvapoRust is great stuff. It’s best to submerge the piece in the evaporust, which could be a bit challenging with a whole seat frame, but there are ways to apply it otherwise.
Rockymtnreaper
Colorado.Cruiser
Given the size, I think I would get a quote to blast it. Worth the time and good finish.
When I did the same swap, the 62 seat frame looked just like that. I spent way too much time with wire wheel and brushes to handle the surface rust. But in the end…
no more rusty frame.
Not sure what pricing is like in your area but something like the seat back would cost $120 to get blasted and primed around here.
Wire wheeling will take hours. What's your time worth?
Wire wheeling will take hours. What's your time worth?
- Thread starter
- #397
My thought exactly. Time is the thing I have the least of.
- Thread starter
- #398
Just gonna leave this here for later
batthewmrown
SILVER Star
Did you get a Terc?
- Thread starter
- #400
Had to go to the crankshaft shop and tell them I was taking it home whether it was done or not. Fortunately it was. Dropped off 3/20 with a promised four day turnaround. Called 4/10 and I was told it wasn’t done yet, with a good side helping of attitude for being so bold as to even ask them. Luckily they honored their promise of doing the work for free since they forgot to widen the thrust clearance when they had the crank last year. It only cost me $65 for one parking ticket.
Is it finally time to assemble? I’ll get started and we’ll see what the next stumbling block is.
