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Forgot about this… I put my 13 year old behind the wheel for the first time earlier this week. She putzed around an empty parking lot at night for 5 minutes. @POTATO LAUNCHER recommendation of putting first time drivers in low range gearing was great and I highly recommend it. It’s much simpler to slowly release the clutch and be going about 1/2mph than it is to start in high range gearing where you have to feather the clutch and throttle and get into gear going 10mph.

A little nervous at first, but she felt better when it was over
IMG_1573.webp


I did this with my 17 year old a few months ago but he was far less enthused. After he was done he said “the steering isn’t very good” to which I said “yeah, you’re damn right, it’s an old truck!”
 
Safety first, right? My kids ride in the back and I’ve been meaning to put 3-point belts in the truck for a while now. I bought them from SeatBeltPlanet months ago, but it took some planning and finally the first one installed today.

Finished product.
IMG_2350.webp


I went for OEM-ish looks like a US market 62, with the stock retractor covers (in brown!) and short cargo panels (the ones I make). There’s a few things I need to do to clean it up though. I need to fill the speaker hole. I’ll replace the white trim below the window with the correct contour around the seat latch so it matches the brown cover - 1981-1982 trucks had this different contour to that white piece, as you can see.
IMG_2349.webp


I also want to get the brown triangular covers for the Cpillar thing. When I put the SPB belts in the front seats I found out the original brown covers snap right onto the SPB things.

Black cover that comes with the SPB belts below. Fortunately I have threaded C-pillars. Kind of odd for a 1982 60.
IMG_2346.webp

Original brown cover retrofitted to the SPB belt in the front:
IMG_2341.webp


Doing the project like this with my desired outcome for OEM-ish looks was not straightforward. The brown retractor covers are 30mm deep but the SBP retractors are 68mm deep. My plan was to cut some bodywork, then make some brackets to recess the retractors. The bracket is also beneficial because it uses two bolts through the pinch weld, rather than how I’ve seen other folks attach the retractor - with one bolt through the sheet metal.

Brackets below, one for each side. I think I did 1/4” (6mm). Plenty beefy for the task.
IMG_2299.webp


Clearancing and bracket install. JIS hardware always. The cable is a coax feed from my dash mounted GMRS and goes up through the back hatch and onto the roof rack for an antenna. It stays out of the way after everything else as done here. Also note that there is more sheet metal further back, so access from the rear isn’t viable - more on that later. Early 60s like mine only have a wiring harness on the driver side. Later FJ60s (1985+) have part of the wiring harness passing through here on the passenger side as well, it’s split and runs on both sides. So other folks doing this might run into that.
IMG_2335.webp


I think I goofed up the offset measurement. I wanted the bracket to mount on the front side of the pinch weld, but it wasn’t giving me enough clearance to keep the retractor sticking out less than 30mm. I installed it this way and it wasn’t a big deal.
IMG_2336.webp


Retractor installed. Note that it’s “backwards”. From the way the buckle was put on it seems like SPB wants you to install the fat part of the thing towards the inside of the vehicle. Notice the webbing comes out off center - by flipping the retractor around, the body sits inside the cavity I cut open but the webbing comes out almost flush with the sheet metal. That way it’s aligned nicely as it goes up to the C-pillar thing. All of this sits 28mm out from the sheet metal (including the bolt head), just enough clearance for the cover. Installing the lock washer and nut on the back of the bolt was a chore since you can’t get to it from the back … but it’s doable.
IMG_2343.webp


The SPB buckle clips perfectly into the original Toyota receiver so I left that. The third point was as easy as drilling a single hole through the reinforced area inside the wheel well. In fact, when you fold the bottom of the seat up you can see a recessed round spot on the interior which is a knockout that Toyota used at the factory for trucks with 3-point rear belts. Basically, drill from the inside because the target location is already there.
IMG_2352.webp


All that work and only one is installed. I’ll do the other one maybe next weekend. That one is more involved since I have a fuse panel and ground bus bolted to the cargo panel for accessory stuff. It’s a little more work than this side. After that I need to get on the rear seat headrest project!

FYI, if anybody’s going down this path in the future and wants the brackets, I had an extra pair made up. Let me know if you want them. They aren’t expensive.
 
CruiserTrash said:
Safety first, right? My kids ride in the back and I’ve been meaning to put 3-point belts in the truck for a while now. I bought them from SeatBeltPlanet months ago, but it took some planning and finally the first one installed today.

Finished product.
View attachment 3996270

I went for OEM-ish looks like a US market 62, with the stock retractor covers (in brown!) and short cargo panels (the ones I make). There’s a few things I need to do to clean it up though. I need to fill the speaker hole. I’ll replace the white trim below the window with the correct contour around the seat latch so it matches the brown cover - 1981-1982 trucks had this different contour to that white piece, as you can see.
View attachment 3996275

I also want to get the brown triangular covers for the Cpillar thing. When I put the SPB belts in the front seats I found out the original brown covers snap right onto the SPB things.

Black cover that comes with the SPB belts below. Fortunately I have threaded C-pillars. Kind of odd for a 1982 60.
View attachment 3996276
Original brown cover retrofitted to the SPB belt in the front:
View attachment 3996277

Doing the project like this with my desired outcome for OEM-ish looks was not straightforward. The brown retractor covers are 30mm deep but the SBP retractors are 68mm deep. My plan was to cut some bodywork, then make some brackets to recess the retractors. The bracket is also beneficial because it uses two bolts through the pinch weld, rather than how I’ve seen other folks attach the retractor - with one bolt through the sheet metal.

Brackets below, one for each side. I think I did 1/4” (6mm). Plenty beefy for the task.
View attachment 3996281

Clearancing and bracket install. JIS hardware always. The cable is a coax feed from my dash mounted GMRS and goes up through the back hatch and onto the roof rack for an antenna. It stays out of the way after everything else as done here. Also note that there is more sheet metal further back, so access from the rear isn’t viable - more on that later. Early 60s like mine only have a wiring harness on the driver side. Later FJ60s (1985+) have part of the wiring harness passing through here on the passenger side as well, it’s split and runs on both sides. So other folks doing this might run into that.
View attachment 3996279

I think I goofed up the offset measurement. I wanted the bracket to mount on the front side of the pinch weld, but it wasn’t giving me enough clearance to keep the retractor sticking out less than 30mm. I installed it this way and it wasn’t a big deal.
View attachment 3996282

Retractor installed. Note that it’s “backwards”. From the way the buckle was put on it seems like SPB wants you to install the fat part of the thing towards the inside of the vehicle. Notice the webbing comes out off center - by flipping the retractor around, the body sits inside the cavity I cut open but the webbing comes out almost flush with the sheet metal. That way it’s aligned nicely as it goes up to the C-pillar thing. All of this sits 28mm out from the sheet metal (including the bolt head), just enough clearance for the cover. Installing the lock washer and nut on the back of the bolt was a chore since you can’t get to it from the back … but it’s doable.
View attachment 3996284

The SPB buckle clips perfectly into the original Toyota receiver so I left that. The third point was as easy as drilling a single hole through the reinforced area inside the wheel well. In fact, when you fold the bottom of the seat up you can see a recessed round spot on the interior which is a knockout that Toyota used at the factory for trucks with 3-point rear belts. Basically, drill from the inside because the target location is already there.
View attachment 3996285

All that work and only one is installed. I’ll do the other one maybe next weekend. That one is more involved since I have a fuse panel and ground bus bolted to the cargo panel for accessory stuff. It’s a little more work than this side. After that I need to get on the rear seat headrest project!

FYI, if anybody’s going down this path in the future and wants the brackets, I had an extra pair made up. Let me know if you want them. They aren’t expensive.
Click to expand...
Might be worth hitting that outside bolt with some undercoating.
 
Lucky1386 said:
Might be worth hitting that outside bolt with some undercoating.
Click to expand...
That's the plan. I need to knock a little rust loose and spray a bunch of undercarriage stuff before the winter hits and I was going to roll that bolt into the process.
 
Piles of parts ... not enough time. I'm sure everyone is familiar with that story. Still haven't gotten around to putting the other rear shoulder belt in. But, the thing I'm here to leave a comment about is that I've got brand new OEM brake drums and OEM brake shoes. Remember my overtightening brakes? That never really went away. There was some discussion about how the brake shoe pin where you mount the e-brake lever was beveled, with differences between OEM and aftermarket. Well, after adding washers and all sorts of other doodads to try to get things to work with aftermarket shoes, as well as milking every last bit of the original 43 year old drums ... It's time to replace both at once. The wheel cylinders and most of the innards were new as of three years ago so those will get reused. I did get new inner parking brake cables (the short ones inside the drum) as well as a new parking brake cable (the long one from the handle to the rear axle). Even doing a trail like Imogene once per year is enough to want to make sure the parking brake situation is WELL sorted.

I've done the rear brakes a couple times now, but ... I'm open to any additional advice or tricks, especially related to overtightening rear brakes or occasionally sticky parking brakes. Lay it on me!
 
Fall updates...

I've been having starter issues for a a month or maybe more. Finally decided to do something about it. I've also noticed that the battery terminals (on both batteries) were getting REALLY crusty with deposits. I thought maybe they were related. Whatever the case, I was using the bottle jack extension to bang on the starter to get going 1-2 times every day. Annoying. The starter was rebuilt by a local shop about 3 years ago.

I talked with @ToyotaTechnical and figured out the battery terminal crust is caused by liquid or vapor escaping from the vents in my lead acid batteries and interacting with the metals in the terminals. Both of my batteries get damp on top, so that tracks. I bought a small kit from NoCo with a cleaner, protector, and two felt rings that go around the base of the battery posts for further protection. I took all four battery terminals completely apart (I run dual batteries). The cleaner spray stuff didn't really do much and I ended up mechanically cleaning them with various wire brushes in a cordless drill. Yeah, I wore a mask and kept my face away from that stuff. I cleaned all the ring terminals off too. I cleaned the dampness from the tops of the batteries (with gloves, the s*** turns rags black or red and I'm sure it's super toxic). I reassembled it all and sprayed protectant on the underside before putting the terminals on the post, then I covered the sides and tops with the spray. Chris also suggested spraying around the vents to neutralize the battery acid as it came out. Everything's looking very shiny and clean now. But my starter still wasn't cooperating.

I had an extra rebuilt starter in my trail spares bag, rebuilt by the same local shop. The paint got messed up rattling around in the spares bag, but that's fine. This weekend I swapped it in and HOLY LORD does it fire off fast! II guess it's like a frog in a pot of boiling water, you don't notice the change because it happens so slowly - the old starter by comparison was very slow and weak. This new one sounds like it spins twice as fast and much more strong.

Would I change to AGM or Li batteries in the future? Maybe. I like that lead acid batteries are cheap and dumb, and my dual battery solenoid doesn't need to provide any additional massaging or regulation to the charging system. I like keeping within the theme of the Land Cruiser - dumb, simple, and robust. But AGM and Li have their advantages. Li still scares me because of the spontaneous combustion factor - it happened to somebody here on Mud last year.

Still gathering parts for the 3F manifold swap. That project will now include replacing the weeping freeze plugs that the original machine shop pressed in when I had the block reworked. Yet another strike against them. It'll be easier to access them since they're right below the manifolds. The 3F manifolds have a different stud pattern and thus can't use the 2F carb, so I need to rebuild my 3F carb (which is currently living at @HemiAlex house in Tejas). Another issue will be that 60s with 3F carbs use a linkage from the gas pedal to the firewall and then have two brackets to transfer the motion to a throttle cable. Either I need to retrofit a linkage on the carb itself so I can use the stock 2F linkage the whole way, or go to the stock 3F setup. That will require either finding rare firewall brackets or making my own. This is becoming a whole thing, but I'll get there.

Parts for a brake rebuild are here, just waiting on me to find the time. New OEM drums, shoes, front pads, and a parking brake cable. Going all OEM this time so hopefully I don't run into the issue where the rear brakes overtighten themselves.

Potos to be posted soon.
 
CruiserTrash said:
Fall updates...

I've been having starter issues for a a month or maybe more. Finally decided to do something about it. I've also noticed that the battery terminals (on both batteries) were getting REALLY crusty with deposits. I thought maybe they were related. Whatever the case, I was using the bottle jack extension to bang on the starter to get going 1-2 times every day. Annoying. The starter was rebuilt by a local shop about 3 years ago.

I talked with @ToyotaTechnical and figured out the battery terminal crust is caused by liquid or vapor escaping from the vents in my lead acid batteries and interacting with the metals in the terminals. Both of my batteries get damp on top, so that tracks. I bought a small kit from NoCo with a cleaner, protector, and two felt rings that go around the base of the battery posts for further protection. I took all four battery terminals completely apart (I run dual batteries). The cleaner spray stuff didn't really do much and I ended up mechanically cleaning them with various wire brushes in a cordless drill. Yeah, I wore a mask and kept my face away from that stuff. I cleaned all the ring terminals off too. I cleaned the dampness from the tops of the batteries (with gloves, the s*** turns rags black or red and I'm sure it's super toxic). I reassembled it all and sprayed protectant on the underside before putting the terminals on the post, then I covered the sides and tops with the spray. Chris also suggested spraying around the vents to neutralize the battery acid as it came out. Everything's looking very shiny and clean now. But my starter still wasn't cooperating.

I had an extra rebuilt starter in my trail spares bag, rebuilt by the same local shop. The paint got messed up rattling around in the spares bag, but that's fine. This weekend I swapped it in and HOLY LORD does it fire off fast! II guess it's like a frog in a pot of boiling water, you don't notice the change because it happens so slowly - the old starter by comparison was very slow and weak. This new one sounds like it spins twice as fast and much more strong.

Would I change to AGM or Li batteries in the future? Maybe. I like that lead acid batteries are cheap and dumb, and my dual battery solenoid doesn't need to provide any additional massaging or regulation to the charging system. I like keeping within the theme of the Land Cruiser - dumb, simple, and robust. But AGM and Li have their advantages. Li still scares me because of the spontaneous combustion factor - it happened to somebody here on Mud last year.

Still gathering parts for the 3F manifold swap. That project will now include replacing the weeping freeze plugs that the original machine shop pressed in when I had the block reworked. Yet another strike against them. It'll be easier to access them since they're right below the manifolds. The 3F manifolds have a different stud pattern and thus can't use the 2F carb, so I need to rebuild my 3F carb (which is currently living at @HemiAlex house in Tejas). Another issue will be that 60s with 3F carbs use a linkage from the gas pedal to the firewall and then have two brackets to transfer the motion to a throttle cable. Either I need to retrofit a linkage on the carb itself so I can use the stock 2F linkage the whole way, or go to the stock 3F setup. That will require either finding rare firewall brackets or making my own. This is becoming a whole thing, but I'll get there.

Parts for a brake rebuild are here, just waiting on me to find the time. New OEM drums, shoes, front pads, and a parking brake cable. Going all OEM this time so hopefully I don't run into the issue where the rear brakes overtighten themselves.

Potos to be posted soon.
Click to expand...
Oddly enough I am dealing with the same battery and starter issues. Spent a few hours cleaning every ground, connection and terminal I could get to and she started marginally better.
Next morning:
"click"
"bang bang bang"
"start" still anemic however.

Take it to O'reillyZone, battery, alt and starter all test good. Dude says it's a fuel thing. I want to suggest actually quitting his day job because it is clearly not related to fuel.

As luck would have it, I am in Dallas on a job and everyone's favorite heavy equipment collector @ceylonfj40nut is bailing me out with a reman Denso from the dealer.

Discovered that they are still, in fact, available from the dealer at quite a reasonable price point too:

Part number: 28100-60070-84

1763398664275.webp
 
So, what is the best guess on the corrosion? Gasses effecting the metals? I am getting mine mostly under the hold down and it is in sad shape, but also toxic wetness on the top and general funky-ness.
 
RevISK said:
So, what is the best guess on the corrosion? Gasses effecting the metals? I am getting mine mostly under the hold down and it is in sad shape, but also toxic wetness on the top and general funky-ness.
Click to expand...
Yeah, that's exactly what Chris was saying - chemical reaction between the liquid/gas from the battery and the metal in the terminals. Mine was crusty on the hold down rod and bolt too, both batteries. I spent two hours wire wheeling everything, it was really bad.
 
RevISK said:
Oddly enough I am dealing with the same battery and starter issues. Spent a few hours cleaning every ground, connection and terminal I could get to and she started marginally better.
Next morning:
"click"
"bang bang bang"
"start" still anemic however.

Take it to O'reillyZone, battery, alt and starter all test good. Dude says it's a fuel thing. I want to suggest actually quitting his day job because it is clearly not related to fuel.

As luck would have it, I am in Dallas on a job and everyone's favorite heavy equipment collector @ceylonfj40nut is bailing me out with a reman Denso from the dealer.

Discovered that they are still, in fact, available from the dealer at quite a reasonable price point too:

Part number: 28100-60070-84

View attachment 4032306
Click to expand...
I wonder if a 62 starter is different than a 60. That price is almost exactly what I pay from the local mom-and-pop rebuild place. Maybe I ought to try a Toyota reman, instead of a "Dale, the guy with the dusty shop on 44th" reman.
 
CruiserTrash said:
I wonder if a 62 starter is different than a 60. That price is almost exactly what I pay from the local mom-and-pop rebuild place. Maybe I ought to try a Toyota reman, instead of a "Dale, the guy with the dusty shop on 44th" reman.
Click to expand...
Same starter works in 2f all the way 3FE
 
CruiserTrash said:
I wonder if a 62 starter is different than a 60. That price is almost exactly what I pay from the local mom-and-pop rebuild place. Maybe I ought to try a Toyota reman, instead of a "Dale, the guy with the dusty shop on 44th" reman.
Click to expand...

The starters are the same, in fact you can use an old F starter on a 3FE. I don't recommend it but it will work as I've done it for a short time.

Also, if your old starter is Denso the part numbers to rebuild the plunger and contacts are out there. I took a quick but could not find them. Replacing the plunger and contacts is super easy.
 
Godwin said:
The starters are the same, in fact you can use an old F starter on a 3FE. I don't recommend it but it will work as I've done it for a short time.

Also, if your old starter is Denso the part numbers to rebuild the plunger and contacts are out there. I took a quick but could not find them. Replacing the plunger and contacts is super easy.
Click to expand...
I have heard that too. I was thinking of doing that on the one I just removed so it could rotate back to being a spare.
 
zeeklafreek said:
@CruiserTrash " I like keeping within the theme of the Land Cruiser - dumb, simple, and robust. " ... it's why I drive what I drive, so the truck matches perfectly its driver. :)
Click to expand...
Yeah man, I'm in the same boat haha. The 2F is dumb enough for me to work on, and I'm dumb enough that I can't work on anything more complicated. Match made in dumb heaven.
 
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