Weber Tuniing Question (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Boaf 32
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- Thread starter
- #22
I Agree. Removed the distributor and advance is free, clean and moving. I pulled the plugs and found some fowled black soot on 2 and 5. I will adjust valve lash again (I had just re-assembled a few months ago and the valve lash was perfect. Doesn't mean that it didn't loosen). Will do that this weekend. It runs at Idle very quiet... Thanks.
Boaf
- Thread starter
- #25
Hey @Pin_Head
Valve lash adjusted. Some sloppiness but not overly bad. Started and it's a bit quieter. Will go for a ride soon and see what happens. Compression this weekend.
Just came back from a ride. Again, same story. Not sure what to think anymore other than go back to the distributor. I know there was an "18 degree" stamped on the one side of the cam. Should I switch the cam in the other direction just to eliminate that as an issue (if that even matters)?
At a loss here.
Thanks
Boaf
Valve lash adjusted. Some sloppiness but not overly bad. Started and it's a bit quieter. Will go for a ride soon and see what happens. Compression this weekend.
Just came back from a ride. Again, same story. Not sure what to think anymore other than go back to the distributor. I know there was an "18 degree" stamped on the one side of the cam. Should I switch the cam in the other direction just to eliminate that as an issue (if that even matters)?
At a loss here.
Thanks
Boaf
Last edited:
Pull a few spark plugs. Share photos.
- Thread starter
- #28
@Pin_Head @Dizzy
Also went to confirm my timing. I know for a fact it was Spot on the BB. Yet when I started it, the BB was no where in site (with vacuum disconnected and connected . In fact, when I would rotate the Dizzy Clockwise to bring the BB back to the window, it would stall, no run. Push it towards the oil filter, Advances away from the BB. Hmmm backfire and a lot of play. Let me know what your thoughts are on that.
So lined up TDC., and my rotor is on Plug 1. Started and same thing. Something is not right in Dizzy town. There is alot of play. I tried to attach a movie but cannot. From Rotor positioned on #1, (12:00 O'Clock position), I can move the rotor to 2:00 O'clock or more (turning clockwise). Maybe jumped a tooth when my car lost fuel pump and backfired... But I re-set TDC and on 1.
So maybe tomorrow I will align the flywheel at BB and install the dizzy on 1.
Boaf
- Attached are photos of my plugs 1 through 6. They are black, some tan.
- I am running 45's in my Idle jets (did not look further down to the Main Jets)
Also went to confirm my timing. I know for a fact it was Spot on the BB. Yet when I started it, the BB was no where in site (with vacuum disconnected and connected . In fact, when I would rotate the Dizzy Clockwise to bring the BB back to the window, it would stall, no run. Push it towards the oil filter, Advances away from the BB. Hmmm backfire and a lot of play. Let me know what your thoughts are on that.
So lined up TDC., and my rotor is on Plug 1. Started and same thing. Something is not right in Dizzy town. There is alot of play. I tried to attach a movie but cannot. From Rotor positioned on #1, (12:00 O'Clock position), I can move the rotor to 2:00 O'clock or more (turning clockwise). Maybe jumped a tooth when my car lost fuel pump and backfired... But I re-set TDC and on 1.
So maybe tomorrow I will align the flywheel at BB and install the dizzy on 1.
Boaf
When did you photograph the plugs, after the timing check?
Well, your idle jet suggests that the carb isn't necessarily jetted properly for your 2F at Pennsylvania altitude.
- Thread starter
- #32
The car came from Florida, to NY to PA...Should the Idle jets be larger? When the car is idling and I loosen the idle jets, the car smooths out significantly.
Jets get smaller at higher altitude, but, according to the table (not an O2 sensor) a 45 would be for my altitude or above. If nothing else, it suggests looking further. However, I'd have an air horn / bowl gasket ready in the event that it is stuck in place.
- Thread starter
- #34
So a 60 Idle jet sounds about right for 194 foot above sea level...
Maybe, every engine is different. It would be my starting point.
firefighterjed
SILVER Star
Recently purchased my 1976 2F. It came with a 32/36 and ran poorly. Similar symptoms to yours. I cleaned and rebuilt the carb with marginal improvement. Plugs improved it a little more. Timing solved the problem to 95% perfect. Not on the BB but a little advanced when timing with vacuum disconnected and plugged. Turning the distributor (HEI) about 4* counter clockwise seemed to be the sweet spot. Don’t know why, but it solved the backfire & mid throttle stumble. It still doesn’t like me to totally mash the pedal, but a good moderate throttle press is tolerated nicely and the rig accelerates away.
thebigredrocker
SILVER Star
Boaf, do you recall if the pistons used in the rebuilt 2F were domed or flat top? Also wondering if the head was open or closed chamber?
Also, I recalled FJ40Jim mention NGK BPR4EY is a hotter plug. He’s mentioned W14EXR-U is the ND equivalent. Might be worth a try at some point.
Also, I recalled FJ40Jim mention NGK BPR4EY is a hotter plug. He’s mentioned W14EXR-U is the ND equivalent. Might be worth a try at some point.
You might want to pull some plugs and look for evidence of lean or rich condition as well. You will have a good baseline reading because they are new. Lean condition is hard on valves. These 32/36s are rarely the best out of the box.
Are you running vacuum from the carb to the HEI?
