Weber Tuniing Question (1 Viewer)

[Boaf 32]

JohnnyC,

Advanced timing just out of site of Window (I have old school timing light, no degrees). If I read threads correctly, that should set the timing 10 - 12 degrees (4 - 6 degrees advanced from the BB, bottom of window). Taking a ride shortly. Not feeling confident though.

Boaf

 

[Boaf 32]

Re-set the timing just out of view from the window. That should make it 10 - 12 Degrees (if I read that thread correctly that says the window is 3 degrees in each direction from the pointer). My timing light is a sears old school, no degree. Will give it a ride shortly. The Idle mixture screws are at 2 full turns, the speed screw is at 1/4 turn roughly 750 RPM. Going for a ride, not feeling particularly confident but will see. Thanks JohnnyC.

Boaf

 

[Boaf 32]

Not much better @Johnny C . Maybe another degree or 2 may improve, it did help some going up hills. The LC is still trying to backfire (all though I did not press it to that point), and I seem to have a new issue of stalling on hard stops and fast turns. Guess fuel flooding air jets now.

I feel I stuck at this point. I will again Check my vacuum. Anything else gents? Really frustrated at this point.

Boaf

 

[JohnnyC]

Was it pinging?

 

[Boaf 32]

Was it pinging?

No, no pinging, just felt like it wanted to start stumbling. I can use the advance dial for the plate, but have not so far. Moved timing another degree or 2 by ear. Will try to drive again later for a test run...

Boaf

 

[JohnnyC]

This may help
(Pilfered mud pic)

 

[Boaf 32]

Thanks JohhnyC. I bought that book and use it religiously. Just got back from a test ride after another 2 degree advance.
It's still fluttering. My new concern is the annoying stalling. I can consistently stall on a turn. To me, that means the fuel is too high in the float boat. F$%^&*!!!

In the picture, this is where my fuel is aligned after I took off the carb. Everything I've read leads me to believe this is the correct level, and the float height was measured at 1 1/2 inch (bottom to gasket without collapsing the fuel valve..

There are way too many things going on: Timing, stalling, backfiring. FnA' this is just pissing me off.

 

[JohnnyC]

There is no way that’s getting to the airC jets

You could be starving it looks a lil low imho even with the float displacing it a bit

 

[JohnnyC]

 

[thebigredrocker]

With all do respect, keep in mind an OEM carb might be worth a shot at some point.

The 75-76 Aisan carbs are 38/40 throttles and 31/35 venturis.

The common weber is 38/38 with only 26/26 venturis.

The Weber is nice for a lot of setups , unfortunately the Cruisers are not one of them . The 38DGV series carb is too small , the stock carb from a 2F or a Trollhole unit is actually higher in cfm and handles angles so much better than even a modified Weber . This comes from the guy that used to build Weber carbs to run at extreme angles - the Toyota carb design is just better . On a smaller high-winding engine , now that's where a Weber will shine as that is what they were made for ...
Sarge

Opinions are of little consequence.

There are satisfied users of Weber carbs. The typical customer has an undriveable truck, installs a Weber of some sort, truck becomes driveable. Satisfaction.

The fact is that Weber as a brand makes excellent carbs. I've used them on almost every race car and hotrod streetcar I've owned.
They don't make one to fit a Cruiser engine.

i ran weber 38s for years and thought i was happy.
true happiness was when the non usa oems started showing up, and showed me how crappy my good running webers were.
i was going to sell them, but decided not to put that weak sauce on anyone.

 

[JohnnyC]

Do you have a vac gauge? That’s very helpful

If your vac advance has a slight tear it may not be advancing

Pic of your dizzy

 

[JohnnyC]

Have a hand pump vac ?

 

[Boaf 32]

Yes on wanting to go back to stock or Trollhole carb. This has been a crap hole Weber shoot.

Well, my last post said there were three things going on:

1. Timing
2. Backfire and
3. Stalling

Got me thinking where the heck is the Vacuum leak (as was suggested multiple times)...FOUND IT!!!

Son of a bugger the gasket on the top of the carb was ripped / damaged. I had to "f" it up but would have never thought about that leak without @Dizzy , @Johnny C , @Weber Sarge and @Coolerman @Pin_Head and a host of others.....

So:

• New gasket
• Advanced the timing off the BB (by ear, old school)
• Adjusted the carb after timing with vacuum off.

Road test and vundeba. No stalling around turns, still a bit of stuttering but NOTHING like before.

Gents, you are awesome and thanks for giving me patience and tenacity. I was at wits end and ready to store it for the summer. Screw that, going in the snow as soon as it happens!!!

Thanks brothers. Hope I can help you some day also!

Boaf

 

[JohnnyC]

now that thats figured out... put in 55's for the idle ... BOTH sides and call it done

put on wish list:
vac gauge
adjustable timing light
hand vac pump

i use all when giving a tuneup... its sooooooo much easier when you got the right stuff



my wish list is still to get an engine exhaust gas analyzer... been on my list for 30 years lol

 

[Boaf 32]

now that thats figured out... put in 55's for the idle ... BOTH sides and call it done

put on wish list:
vac gauge
adjustable timing light
hand vac pump

i use all when giving a tuneup... its sooooooo much easier when you got the right stuff



my wish list is still to get an engine exhaust gas analyzer... been on my list for 30 years lol

Hand pump vacuum gauge, check
Adjustable timing light, Needed!
Vac Gauge, ordering.

There is one question. The idle jets have a large screw on one side that can receive a 60 or 55. The other side is smaller and would not fit a 60, only the 45 that is in it now. Is there a different one to order? I asked earlier in the thread. It is the same set up as the 32 / 36; one side bigger than the other.

Thanks.

 

[JohnnyC]

Pics of the jets

Is the idle jet o ring stuck in there ?

 

[Dizzy]

32/36 DGEV, primary top, secondary bottom

 

[Boaf 32]

32/36 DGEV, primary top, secondary bottom

View attachment 1877673

Thanks. I pulled it out but that was not the issue. The receiver (the Screw) is too small for the 60. Literally, the jet is to big to push into the screw. I have a larger screw from 36 but that does not fit the into that side of the 38 / 38. Interesting.

If it works, I'm not going to screw with it. I just thought that was strange. Synchronous, Symmetrical means identical in most languages. Must be a Weber thing.

Boaf

 

[JohnnyC]

Let me ask it this way ... you’ll need to take a picture of your carb outside so we can be on the same page

If you have a weber copy Chinese carb this could be useful information later ... you may even have a solex crappie weber

You do not have a made in Italy weber lol

Pics of what you meen by it doesn’t fit ... this will help the next time when somebody has the same issue finding jets

Also when you just get it running and are ok with it ... don’t be just satisfied with it ... it will not be great for the engine later ... believe I mentioned that my first post ... too rich = bad

 

[Boaf 32]

Let me ask it this way ... you’ll need to take a picture of your carb outside so we can be on the same page

If you have a weber copy Chinese carb this could be useful information later ... you may even have a solex crappie weber

You do not have a made in Italy weber lol

Pics of what you meen by it doesn’t fit ... this will help the next time when somebody has the same issue finding jets

Also when you just get it running and are ok with it ... don’t be just satisfied with it ... it will not be great for the engine later ... believe I mentioned that my first post ... too rich = bad

I'll pull the Idle jet that is on the Passenger side and snap a photo. This screw is smaller (than the driver side) and the thread is small. The interior diameter where the jet is inserted is not large enough for the 60 Idle jet. (That's the rub). Hence, the 45 is in that side of the carb.

The screw on the Driver's side has a larger thread, and larger interior diameter that can receive the 60.

Still stalling, still bucking. Buying a decent (non hand pump) Vacuum gauge today and will re-test for leaks.

Boaf