Builds We will name him Brutus. (2 Viewers)

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That looks like a vacuum-retard dizzy. Might run better with the vacuum line removed from the dizzy and plugged at the carb
 
Ballist resistor!! Only 10 bucks.
Where do I find that? because I dont see it along the firewall, possibly under the dash??


That looks like a vacuum-retard dizzy. Might run better with the vacuum line removed from the dizzy and plugged at the carb

will that not cause any issues? I know its not gonna be a speed demon but definitely want to be able to go 50-55mph lol
 
Read this.
Screenshot_20240902-072614_Chrome.jpg
 
Well then I need to run all those wires to find the one its supposed to have, but ill slap a new coil and see what happens. Its not on the coil itself, and not on the firewall, so just want to verify there is not one hiding under the dash or something. Hopefully thats going to make a big difference. I assume the internally regulated ones will be from newer LCs?
 
will that not cause any issues? I know its not gonna be a speed demon but definitely want to be able to go 50-55mph lol
No. It is the routine "band-aid fix" if you have one of those distributors. Hopefully, your mechanical advance still works. Engines like the timing to advance as they speed up so many people, like me, opt for an earlier or later vacuum advance distributor.
 
Its a ceramic piece with terminals on it usually mounted right by the coil. Do a search here on ballast resistor and some stuff will come up.
Well then I am afraid someone has removed the one I am supposed to have without putting the correct coil in. I will look at the ~74 coils so I can see if that fixes it. and im going to pull the vacuum off the distributor as well and see what happens. Maybe it will be drivable. Or else I will have a fairly new 69 carb and distributor for sale while I get that AFI kit. lol
 
When were the valves last adjusted?
from what I was told, 2018. The guy I bought it from (is a member here, has a fully restored FJ40) paid the toyota dealer in the valley to bring it up to snuff. He said he picked it up from there perfectly running and driving, took to a body shop where it sat until I bought it. So it did a total of 17 miles between 2018 and 2024. lol
 
Did it sit for six years with gas in the carb?
I can’t recall if we’ve already been over the fuel filter, fuel lines, and fuel pick-up/gas tank in this thread already.(?)
If gas was sitting in it for that long, it’s not going to matter if it was rebuilt beforehand, it will need to be taken apart and cleaned out.
 
Did it sit for six years with gas in the carb?
I can’t recall if we’ve already been over the fuel filter, fuel lines, and fuel pick-up/gas tank in this thread already.(?)
If gas was sitting in it for that long, it’s not going to matter if it was rebuilt beforehand, it will need to be taken apart and cleaned out.
tank, lines, filter, pump, all are new. Carb was new from SOR in 2018, but sitting since. carb moves freely, but definitely not totally free of build up im sure.
 
So it did a total of 17 miles between 2018 and 2024. lol
Never the less, I suggest you check the gap yourself. Practice a valve adjustment while cold, do it many times. No, more than that. Use your hand crank to turn the engine slowly, with the valve cover removed and the dizzy cap off and a light shining on the timing window. Watch how the rotor turns when you turn the crankshaft/hand crank. understand why people put in their dizzy 180* out so you don't, see which rockers are up and down and when. See why 1,2,3,5,7,9 is the magic number backwards and forwards depending which end you start on.
That's how I learned it.
 
1 last thing. I think you are getting bombarded with info and going in circles start with the easy 💩 and verify and move onto next step or ya gonna drive urself ****ing 🥜.
yeah thats why I am going to do the coil, and if that doesnt work I am going to start taking this s***e off to put EFI on. I even have the receipt from the carb install from the toyota dealer, so its gotta be worth a couple dollars lol
 
Do the steps I outlined to verify the integrity of your ignitions primary circuit.
If you need to PM me to tune out the noise, that's ok. I still think that the distributor body to block ground may be suspect.
 

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