Vibration grinding sound after 3-inch OME lift--drop transfer case????

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ToyotaTruck

ToyotaTruck

Joined
Dec 15, 2016
Threads
8
Messages
45
Location
Arizona
1997 Land Cruiser

I just installed the 3-inch HD OME lift. Looks great and feels smooth but I have a grinding sound/vibration at high speeds (65mph+) and especially audible when I release the gas from high speeds. I initially thought driveline angle issue after lifting it but would a 3-inch lift cause this?

I took the Land Cruiser in to get aligned after the lift and the shop said the sound is due to the lift, it is common after a lift (would have been nice of ARB to let me know prior), and the issue is at the transfer case where the driveline meets up. The degrees are 12 when it should be 3-4 and dropping the transfer case an inch would resolve the issue.

I thought that with so many of these lifts, there would be a transfer case drop kit and the lack of this makes me think I shouldn't be doing this. Any thoughts on how to correctly fix this issue?


Thanks,
JARED
 
Thanks. I don't want to go part-time 4x4 as road conditions change all the time where I am and it is nice having the full-time 4wd. I know nothing about changing the front drive shaft to be a double-cardan even after research so I will probably have a shop do this.

Again, had I known this before lifting, I certainly wouldn't have done it. Live and learn I guess.


Thanks
 
One option is to find a front shaft from a 4runner or pickup of same era with the double cardan in good shape, take it along with your existing shaft to a driveline shop and explain you need the same total length retaining existing original yokes with addition of dc joint to deal with t case angles. I have no experience with north American model 80's so please forgive my ignorance but if you can engage your center diff in high range, pull the front shaft and see if your noise disappears, if so, theres your diagnosis.
 
Is it coming from front or rear?

If the rear, just try lubing your rear most U-joint with a ton of grease. it should mellow out for a few weeks at a time. Lube All 4 U-joints with a lot of grease, and the slip yolks with 2-3 pumps. If it keeps coming back you'll want to change out U-joints in rear. If it is front related then a double cardan style drive shaft would be your remedy.
 
ToyotaTruck said:
1997 Land Cruiser

I just installed the 3-inch HD OME lift. Looks great and feels smooth but I have a grinding sound/vibration at high speeds (65mph+) and especially audible when I release the gas from high speeds. I initially thought driveline angle issue after lifting it but would a 3-inch lift cause this?

I took the Land Cruiser in to get aligned after the lift and the shop said the sound is due to the lift, it is common after a lift (would have been nice of ARB to let me know prior), and the issue is at the transfer case where the driveline meets up. The degrees are 12 when it should be 3-4 and dropping the transfer case an inch would resolve the issue.

I thought that with so many of these lifts, there would be a transfer case drop kit and the lack of this makes me think I shouldn't be doing this. Any thoughts on how to correctly fix this issue?


Thanks,
JARED
Click to expand...
Read my thread from two weeks ago. All your answers are here.
Fresh 4.88 gear install, no I have issues
 
I installed the exact same OME lift several months ago. Left right away on a 2200 mile trip over Xmas week. Now 5000 miles later everything is still just as quiet as when it was stock. Slip joints and U-joints are in great shape.

Morale of the story.. I think driveshaft maintenance would go a long way towards resolving your noise
 
I'm borderline on needing a DC. Had the same issue, replaced a shot u-joint in the front and 99% better. Worth checking before the coin of DC.
 
Could not agree more with "Retrofive". Even if you replaced every U-Joint on front and rear driveshafts.. the cost would still be way less than a DC. Also throw in lubing the slip yoke / splines. With the OME lift you have.. you would be able cross off a maintenance task that is not performed often enough. It would also save you from a failed driveshaft in the middle of nowhere.. and if you don't have a Central Diff Lock switch.. even more frustration.
 
Replace u joints first before buying a drive shaft. Common problem when the angles change (aka when you install a lift) the ujoints will commit harakiri shortly thereafter.
 
zonker said:
I installed the exact same OME lift several months ago. Left right away on a 2200 mile trip over Xmas week. Now 5000 miles later everything is still just as quiet as when it was stock. Slip joints and U-joints are in great shape.

Morale of the story.. I think driveshaft maintenance would go a long way towards resolving your noise
Click to expand...


definitely this.

DC driveshaft comes with it's own set of problems. If you can fix it with new (quality) Uni joints, you'll be problem free for longer IMO
 
A DC shaft from a dismantler can be had for $100 or less. Take your shaft out and at ride height, measure center to center between the flanges and give that to the Driveline shop. They usually re-tube a Driveline for $80-$100. It's not too expensive and will last a really long time. The PO of mine seemed to forget the driveshaft has seeks, so it was dry when I did my lift. Installed new u-joints and it didn't help the wobble, which was in the slip splines. Along with heavily worn, the added length from the lift put it out of operating range. Do a DC and be done. You want a 96-02 4runner rear shaft btw!
 
A DC shaft setup is supposed to have 0 angle at the pinion and all of the angle up at the double jointed end. If you are going to do a cut and turn of the axle for proper alignment, then a DC shaft may be a good choice. If you just slap a DC shaft on the stock axle, you can create additional vibration. additionally, the 80 series front shaft arrangement actually has offset in two planes rather than the simple vertical offset. The horizontal offset may be what accounts for the odd phasing arrangement of the stock front shaft - the joints are at 90 deg to the usual setup.

A simple OME 3" lift that produces joint noise is likely due to the joints moving into spots that they never used to go to. Having the joints rebuilt with new Toyota bearings should resolve the problem for many many miles.
 
@ToyotaTruck You say that you installed a 3" lift? Are you referring to the OME 850j/863j springs? If so, and your 80 does not have a good deal of extra weight to it in the form of bumpers and a long list of other crap we add to out 80's, your actual lift is more like 4"-5" especially the rear.

You describe a grrrrrr... sound on deceleration. I never had that sound until I went up to Slee 4" springs and that sound was from my rear driveshaft which was at 12.9 degrees operating angle which is very close to what yours is.

I agree that your front drive shaft will need some sort of resolution too because mine did with 850j/863 level stance lift prior to the Slee 4" springs (which render at least 5" when the 80 in my signature is not loaded) I now run two DC shafts and all is good. Actually, the grrr sound I had in the rear on deceleration would be nonexistent when my rig was loaded up for a wheeling trip because the springs were compressed and the rear driveline angle was relieved just enough.

I opted to have brand new double cardan shafts built using off the shelf American made size 1310 parts instead of buying a
Toyota DC shaft that had a lot of miles on it. If you go this route also, have the driveline builder install the Spicer 1310 Life Series joints. They are stronger than the standard joint and never require greasing. They are a very good U-joint actually.
 
@ToyotaTruck
I just did a 2" lift from my OME .75" stock ride. It made it about 100miles. Same exact odd grinding noise and vibration that varies with the gas peddle. I'm sure it's the front transfer case ujoint. Cheap fix so I'm gonna have them both done. They still feel tight, maybe 1/32" of play. But that's all it takes.
 
First, are the shops experienced with Cruisers, doesn't sound like it? Have to driveshafts been lubed? Try changing the phase of the front shaft, they come in a unique out of phase configuration, sometimes changing to in-phase will solve the problem.
 
Tools R Us said:
First, are the shops experienced with Cruisers, doesn't sound like it? Have to driveshafts been lubed? Try changing the phase of the front shaft, they come in a unique out of phase configuration, sometimes changing to in-phase will solve the problem.
Click to expand...
Elaborate please. Are you referring to keeping the shaft in time when you say "phase"
 
beardedforlife said:
Elaborate please. Are you referring to keeping the shaft in time when you say "phase"
Click to expand...

In phase.
Out of phase.
U-JOINT%20PHASING.jpg
 
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