Builds Utah... the "new blue" - the unforeseen build

[2fpower]

More time out in garage. Tackled the emergency brake. It came with brake lever in center by console, however the cable was coming in a very awkward angle angle and was not closed off to the elements below. Found from a 80 series that e-break tunnel. Had to fabricate a stainless bracket to hold the cable end. Little projects like this always take way too much time, however, Works great, and the cable is now tied to the body underneath and is weathertight.

 

[grishw1]

Got to work on the gas can basket. I do like My new hypertherm plasma cutter.View attachment 1251486View attachment 1251487

Tight!

 

[2fpower]

Hit the list pretty hard today, some things took a lot longer than I thought. Petals for brake and clutch took over five hours and I'm still not done.

The reason this started was when I installed the metal tech family roll cage, the clutch pedal was almost behind the roll cage front tube. My plan was to bend the brake and the clutch pedal to move over about 2 inches to the right.

Then I recalled that the petals seemed very high in the stationary position, so I tried to adjust the brake and clutch and make them as low as possible.

The great news was my press break came in really handy today

It appears when they originally put in the steering column it was right below where they put the brake pedal so that is why did 90° turn. I reduce that to 45° turns, to try and lower the height of the pedal. Still was about 8 inches in the air, so I welded and a piece of 3/8 steel, to get it to about 7 inches.

After 20 trips back-and-forth to the bender got it where I liked it. Bolted it all up and my daughter came out to help test and bleed the brakes and clutch, and we found it was still was too high.

Have to work on it tomorrow.

 

[2fpower]

Next thing on the list to Alter was the clutch slave cylinder. It was about a half inch too high, in relation to the arm. It is a real tight fit to the block, so I had to weld on more steel to the plate and move the holes up.

Once again, took a little longer than I expected; however, got this one finished. Will pull it off and Powdercoat it later.

Got the backseats installed and marked for the upper seatbelt mounts where they need to be welded into the cage.

Got the starter installed, rear tailgate straightened and installed new locking catches in the aquala tailgate.

 

[2fpower]

Got the front axle all tidied up after rebuilding the locking mechanism's, and installed the new u-joint. Still looking for driveshaft bolts, guess I'll have to head to Toyota.

 

[2fpower]

Spoke too soon, found my secret stash of ujoint bolts!!!

Got a bunch more time out there today and finished up the pedals, what a pain!!!

Had to make a few brackets for the rear seatbelts lower mount, and reinforced the clutch bracket that I adapted yesterday.

Blasted all the parts then got them in the Powdercoat oven.

 

[2fpower]

Also got to work on the upper mounts for the rear seatbelt.

Also got the running boards installed.

 

[2fpower]

Got some work done on the fuel system. Replaced all the hoses, filter, cut new hole with grommet in tub and moved the fuel pump to the frame rail with some rubber isolation.

Got rear seatbelt brackets and Belts installed. Yeah, that is 3/8 steel

Final pictures with pedals installed.

Forgot that the exhaust pipe needed extended. Oops.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

Doesn't need extended if u can find the heat riser spacer

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

Classic Industries | Restoration Parts | Mopar Parts | Camaro Parts | Firebird Parts | Nova Parts | Impala Parts | GM Truck Parts | Tri-Five Chevy Parts

 

[jim land]

i chose to extended mine and i use two driver side manifold for same gasket model on both side

 

[2fpower]

Had one last major thing the fab and that is the battery box. General idea was to pretty up the engine bay but I also need a mounting point for the transfer case vacuum switch, as the battery was sitting where it usually mounts on the firewall. I was also able to use for the first time the Dimple die that I bought on eBay.

Testing the die.

Looking better

I had bought a stainless steal bottom universal sometime ago that I used for the base. Had to modify it as it was too long

 

[2fpower]

Spent way too much time working on the brake master cylinder's, finally gave up and order a new one. Good news is that my son came out and helped for several hours today. We got the alternator power steering and most of the wiring put back together on the engine.

 

[2fpower]

i chose to extended mine
View attachment 1357618 View attachment 1357619

Nice work. Found the heat risers for 60 bucks shipped, so went that direction.

 

[2fpower]

anyone have a part number for the exhaust adapter/part that mounts to the flange coming from that crossover pipe? I think I am looking for some sort of ball with flange.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I must have missed the question... what ball flange?

 

[2fpower]

Think I got it figured out, but willing to see if there is a better way. Starting at the V8 SBC, we have the pipe shown below, that is upside down. The output side, on the far right is my issue. What is the connector I need to connect it to rest of exhaust. Talked to @tornadoalleycruiser and the plan is to weld the 2" output to a 2 1/2 vibrant stainless flex pipe (lined) part 60806, then to a vibrant V clamp, part 1490, then to a 2 1/2 to 3 adapter to the rest of the tailpipe that came with the rig.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

if the bottom of the exhaust manifold is flat
this one

if not (it would have a ball or angled shaped) - this one

as those are center dump, it's probably the bottom one (two bolt).

 

[2fpower]

@SuperBuickGuy

Sorry if I am not clear, my issue was how to connect to the output side of this crossover pipe -- going to the muffler.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

ah.... well first you cut that flange off because it's put on backwards, then you weld this bit on
Summit Racing® Ball Flange Kits SUM-672322

I admit, though, that is one crafty crossover....