Builds Utah... the "new blue" - the unforeseen build

[SuperBuickGuy]

I use a Miller Diarc, it's way old - but it's effective. I weld AL with AC instead of DC. That said, my weld are adequate but certainly not pretty.

I also use tri-shield gas and a water cooled torch.

 

[Weber Sarge]

If you want to look for a really good ac/dc welder , and especially the lighter/smaller inverter-based units - look for either the Miller Dynasty 200DX or the Lincoln (equivalent) . I've had a Dynasty since '07 , never blinked other than a cable wasn't plugged in tight at the display - fixed under warranty (no charge) . That was probably my fault - my first cart was rough with solid wheels and it's in my downstairs shop . Read , many trips up/down the stairs with some serious jarring . The insides of these things would scare NASA , but they are downright reliable and almost no owner related problems reported . I've seen them clear down to $1200 used in like-new condition - keep your eyes peeled .

DX model of the Dynasty 200 or the newer 280DX unit has a lot of settings and adjustments . The 200 is a square-wave only machine for tig , the new 280 has 3 or 4 different wave patterns and obviously more power . The biggest stuff is ability to adjust the frequency and ac balance (percentage of time spent electrode positive vs electrode negative) . Basically , it allows you to adjust how the cleaning action of ac works on aluminum . The frequency control can go up to 250hz - which will drive your hearing nuts , but allows you to further focus the arc force into an extremely narrow cone . That is one area that is superior to trying to run dc with a spool gun - no more flat , wide weld puddle . Also , the amperage range goes extremely low - so very thin work can be done with .040" tungstens , read - razor blades and pop cans . Inverter machines allow many things to be changed , biggest being that frequency and balance - transformer based machines are stuck with whatever input hertz is coming off the grid , 60hz in the US and 50hz in some other countries , Europe . Also , the Dynasty can be ran on 110v if needed - the newer ones have an interchangeable plug system for 20a/110v wall plug , 50a single phase welder plug and can also be used on 3ph easily . Max current draw on mine , full on stick welding in dc it only draws 38 amps total .

There are other excellent machines out there from Esab and such , lot of reviews on some of the lesser brands on YouTube if you look around . If you do any serious work or need something to last , I'd stick to either the Blue or Red variety ...

Sarge

 

[2fpower]

Thanks! Great advice @Weber Sarge and @SuperBuickGuy . Time for some craigslist surfing.

I have a Chinese inverter style TIG that I have always used for steel/stainless work; never even thought about if it can do aluminum.

Guess I will have to read that manual thingy.

 

[2fpower]

got the holes in the back finished, so I started working on the front. The top picture shows an opening that was covered about two thirds of the way with the pedal assembly. There were some wires snaked out there that we moved with the rest the harness.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Thanks! Great advice @Weber Sarge and @SuperBuickGuy . Time for some craigslist surfing.

I have a Chinese inverter style TIG that I have always used for steel/stainless work; never even thought about if it can do aluminum.

Guess I will have to read that manual thingy.

I only buy Miller, but that's what I was raised around. Keeping that in mind, beside legacy; here's why I buy them - 1) reliable, 2) and this is the biggest one - parts availability.

I had a hypertherm plasma that was 10 years old, but it was a brick because no more boards... my miller Dialarc is 45 years old and I can still buy parts for it... granted the only part I ever had to buy was a rheostat for the pedal (I know, POS, huh? lol)
Dialarc is nice on a budget - I love the square wave welders, and would love to have a synchrowave - but I paid $400 for my machine plus its cooler, cords, cables, and a bunch of consumables. To me, it make sense not to spend big bucks on a TIG machine because I don't weld that much with TIG e.g. I weld aluminum maybe twice a year, stainless and steel more; but for most of what I do, MIG.... for that I have 252 and a 192 (I maybe off a digit on the 19x machine).

long point, but the tl;dr of this is buy a machine you can parts for in 20 years.

 

[2fpower]

THis is a highjack of my own thead, but here is the direction I am wondering about......

My next project is to take a 80 series and keeping the firewall the same, I hope to put a 45 skin over it. Much like @bugsnbikes did with the piggy skin.

To do this, I will need to widen from the stock 45 width about 4 inches and I want to make it an extended cab by about 6".

I don't have a 45 to play with, just 2 Fj40 tubs. That will give me the outer bits I need, but I don't have the rear section of a 45. I planned to make it from the rear section of a 40, then bridging the tailgate gap.

After playing on this aqualu tub, I am wondering about buying one of their fj45 tubs and use that for all of that work. I would still need to make it 4" wider still, although I have an email into them if they can widen one for me.

Long way of saying that I might be wanting to weld more on aluminum and need it to be structurally sound, so that is why I am thinking about getting a better tig.

 

[2fpower]

OK back to the action. Final picture of the rear taillight, it will need some Bondo, and the holes in the front that are no more. Got to say it's neat to be able to weld something and not worry about painting to keep the rust off

 

[2fpower]

The prior owner made a really cool center console and drink holder, that screamed for another slot for drink slot. I had to take it off any rate to work on the E brake issue. Drilled a big hole is the edge and welded the bottom on

 

[2fpower]

So now I get to my question, the E break hole was not big enough and you can see where the brake cable eventually bend the aluminum down and actually broke it. I have no problem with Making the hole larger, but would like to somehow put a rubber boot on there to keep it a little more weathertight. This apears to be 60 style break, so the outer shell of the cable itself does not move. Anyone have an idea of a rubber boot that would mount easily here?

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

Lemme look might have a 60 ebrake handle here.

 

[2fpower]

What adapter do I need to be able to vent the transfer case? @Coolerman
T

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

Easy way pry the cap off take the spring and ball out and put a hose on it. Harder way thread npt in it . Or find metric fitting harder but avail from nissan

 

[Coolerman]

You have two choices. Unscrew the whole thing and make or find a hose barb that will screw in to that rather large threaded hole, or unscrew the whole thing, pop that cap off the vent, remove anything else that is inside, then screw it back in and put a vent hose over the stub that will stick up after removing the vent cap.

 

[Weber Sarge]

Good call on labeling those brushes - any carbon contamination from using them on steel is a no-no and will produce issues with aluminum . With the amount of leverage on the floor from the e-brake handle , might want to make up a larger plate above or below it to share the load on the tub , just keep the corners rounded so it doesn't cause cracks .
Sarge

 

[2fpower]

Thanks all. I can't find the thread again, so I will just pop the top off and connect.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

Little crazy with the oven huh?

 

[2fpower]

You should be able to tell from the clean workbench, that was not mine. Nice Orion case though. I would have used Purple.

 

[2fpower]

Work is been pretty crazy lately, so not much progress. found an hour or two here to get some brake lines done. I think I'm going to throw away my old brake line flaring tool, after borrowing this one from @tornadoalleycruiser

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

Money well spent on that tool. Looking good. Funny watching all you right handed guys use that. Looks backwards to me.

 

[handcannon]

Money well spent on that tool. Looking good. Funny watching all you right handed guys use that. Looks backwards to me.

Yup, us southpaws are in the minority, but definitely creative.

Don