TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter jfz80
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fourtrax
SILVER Star
LKQ will not sale the whole vehicle only parts
For real, I'll take both driver side doors, hatch, tailgate, front fenders, pretty much whatever body panels you can carry.
If it was only closer.
passed inspection! (on final day of temp plate) after:
replacing all rear axle seals
replacing all rear bearings
replacing all rear brake pads / rotors
adjusting the parking brake 3 times
applying some red packing tape to the rear tail light lenses
replacing all rear axle seals
replacing all rear bearings
replacing all rear brake pads / rotors
adjusting the parking brake 3 times
applying some red packing tape to the rear tail light lenses
Has anyone locally done a windshield gasket replacement on an 80 series? I have a sizable amount of water coming in (pretty sure old gasket is toast)
I would appreciate some help in January sorting this out, I read the FSM, it just looks to be a 2 person job.
I would appreciate some help in January sorting this out, I read the FSM, it just looks to be a 2 person job.
jfz80
Cruisin’
- Thread starter
- #5,567
A few of us local to GSO have used Taylor’s auto glass. They were willing to listen to and follow FSM instructions to glue gasket to body and glass. That step is imperative.
Think you are towards Raleigh? I don’t have much time avail but may be able to lend some suction cups to the effort.
Or drop it off at Taylor’s and we can grab some lunch and try to kill some of the wait time.
While i'm not saying dont do it yourself i'm saying that gasket type WS are fairly easy to break when putting in or sealing right. As a manager at Safelite i'd only put techs that have done lots of gasket jobs on something like this. I'd scan the daily orders for older cruisers or trucks daily to make sure they are done right. Only one we had come back was actually mine but it was done for free in a training glass on gasket glass. Had my best tech redo it for me.
First of 4 rust repairs on my sixty after putting it off for way too long…. Embarrassingly it took me 3 days to get halfway terrible at working with the super thin sheetmetal…. Wow the 20 gauge on the 60 vs the 18 on the 40 makes a huge difference…. This is just the beginning of the journey but figured I’d share some progress since this has been a big milestone to finally take action…. I was tempted to just fill with bondo and call it a day, but that wouldn’t be fair to the future owners…. My forty PO had done that and I felt very slighted once I found big rust holes hidden behind bondo…. I’m restoring good cruiser karma after many have given me good vibes over the yrs…
First two days were a series of trying to figure out wire and tip sizes to use on the thin sheet metal. Attempted to use the Fitzee’s “cut and butt” method but was not great at it….
It’s still a bit rough but very strong, will tidy it up by filling the low spots with metal, then primer and skim coat, and ultimately try to match the original paint…. Then it’s off the the other side which is in much better shape and then the tailgate which is quite intimidating…. Btw there are a lot more complex curves and conclaves compared to the 40..
PSA: pls was the clay and mud from you inner wheel well lips after wheeling…. Apparently it doesn’t just disappear…. Dug out tons of fine mud/clay from hurricane creak two years ago that I missed when washing it multiple times
First two days were a series of trying to figure out wire and tip sizes to use on the thin sheet metal. Attempted to use the Fitzee’s “cut and butt” method but was not great at it….
It’s still a bit rough but very strong, will tidy it up by filling the low spots with metal, then primer and skim coat, and ultimately try to match the original paint…. Then it’s off the the other side which is in much better shape and then the tailgate which is quite intimidating…. Btw there are a lot more complex curves and conclaves compared to the 40..
PSA: pls was the clay and mud from you inner wheel well lips after wheeling…. Apparently it doesn’t just disappear…. Dug out tons of fine mud/clay from hurricane creak two years ago that I missed when washing it multiple times
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@joyRidaz what wire/tip combination did you finally settle on? I've got some similar repair work in my future.
I did it back in July. I removed my glass to repaint and it turns out some PO had the glass or gasket replaced, but no adhesive was used....hence the massive amount of wind noise I got driving anything over 45mph. I couldn't find a local installer (Fayetteville) that would touch a gasket install, so I decided to take in on myself. Never done it before so I read the FSM and all the "horror stories" on MUD before starting. MY experience was that it isn't nearly as difficult as everyone makes it out to be. Maybe I had beginner's luck, but with the help of my wife, we had it in and done in 45 min or less from start to finish. I had my hood and the top valance off from painting the truck (another first) and that made it somewhat easier as well.
As you read, the procedure is pretty straight forward. My only "complaint" was that the sealer/adhesive material is like anti-seize...once you get a little bit on you, it starts getting everywhere and it's a very sticky mess. I'm sure if I did it more, I'd get better at judging how much product to use and make less of a mess. I spent a fair amount of time pushing and squeezing out excess product from under the gasket to get it looking even and flush after gluing it to the body. That was a bit of a pain, but I guess I know there's a 99%+ chance I got enough in there to really seal it up.
If you decide to do it, I highly recommend getting a caulk gun with a higher thrust ratio than the standard gun. It can be done with a standard one, but your hands and forearms are going to be screaming. I found a 13:1 ratio gun at the local Home Depot and that was good enough to move the product fairly easily. I didn't find the job hard, but once I bought the primer and sealer products, the caulk gun, a set of glass suction cups, and some plastic trim tools I don't think I saved much $$$ doing it myself. If I had access to a shop that would do it correctly at a decent price, I would have paid for the job. If you don't have access to a reputable/experienced shop, don't sweat it...it's just gluing in a big sheet of glass.
I’m now using 0.25 Lincoln wire and tips because that’s the smallest Lowe’s had in a pinch. It’s working well but took a bit to get the heat/wire speed right.
The internet says 0.23 would likely be best but I ran out. When I switched to 0.30 which I had on hand, I immediately was blowing through the metal (new and old) in a major way. That wire was INE brand and always served me well on the forty patching (18gauge).
Curious how long this $13 roll of Lincoln wire will last me. Lincoln Tips were $9 for 10 tips.
Need some help if anyone has a moment today in the Raleigh/Durham, Fuquay, Holly Springs area. I need to torque a bolt on a power steering pump. I don't have a fixed vice and have tried wrapping the gear in a shop towel and holding with vice grips, but can't get it to stay still to get the 54 ft/lbs. Looked easy enough on the thread I was reading, but I can't get it to work. Pulled the old pump, hard lines, etc, unbolted and lifted the radiator to install the new lines, everything else is replaced and hooked back up except the new pump. Any thoughts or help is appreciated.
Do you have an old vbelt around you can use instead of a rag? If not, put it on the truck and use the belt tension to hold it. If not that, maybe hold it with a set of oil filter pliers.
Thanks. First pic is pump and the nut I need to torque. Second is where it goes back into the lower engine housing gear drive. I have the nut on wrench tight with the gear at the correct depth measuring with calipers. I don't have an old v-belt unfortunately and have tried rag and oil wrench as well as vice grips. It's awkward to hold and try to torque and the gear moves regardless of my effort. I will keep fiddling and try to figure something out. Just really want to get the torque spec right the first time.
Impact gun to start? Just spitballing.
Thanks. I got the bolt on tight with the rag, vice grips and 17mm 12-point socket, gear is at the correct depth with my calipers... just need to check the torque spec. POS moves around too much holding it with the oil filter wrench or rag and vice grips while trying to torque the bolt. Don't have a vice to put it in. I'll keep fiddling.
If you can’t find another pair of hands, this is what I did on my new PS pump. Put it on the truck or secure it, wrap a belt around it and tightly snap a pair of vice grips on the belt to tighten it around the gear/pulley. Then put the other end of the belt around the WP or other still piece and torque to spec.
When I did mine, I wrapped an old leather belt around the gear and clamped it in my bench vise. Hit it with the impact and then checked torque with torque wrench.
