TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (5 Viewers)

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I would not be too concerned about bearings.

If those are OEM pads I recall there is no wear tab for the rear. As for the wear it sounds like you got it covered. Heavy wear on only one pad largely points to slider pins. As I've preached before, make sure they are smooth and use only synthetic caliper grease.

Not refuting your wisdom, but do you have an example of where slider pins caused just the OUTER pad to wear down to metal, while the inner was fine?
 
Not wrenching, but I'm happy with it, so you get to look at it too :p

Before:

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After:

View attachment 2319975

Nearly two months of work in these pics not including a break to put the new air compressor in service.

For those wanting a more close-up view, check out the pics here. Close-ups of the rot repair and panels after paint.

While I'm super proud of how they came out, there's still work to do on them before they're ready for color. This "after" shot is a forgiving angle :lol:

 
Thanks! Primer is showing me where I need more hammer and dolly work, but she'll get there.

Color will be stock 033 white.
Who did the primer and are they doing the paint as well?
 
Back to brake pads and wear indicator clips for a moment. Does it matter which end of the pad it goes on, as in leading or trailing? I never thought about that until I did the '96 rears last week, I usually just replace them the way I found them... so I did PS and DS opposite so as to only have to redo one side when I found the answer (because my guess is usually wrong).
 
That's one HUGE gas pedal assembly. Comes with a 5.3L take out motor.

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This is what it looks like ready to install, right after paint.

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What's it look like behind your radio?

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Back to brake pads and wear indicator clips for a moment. Does it matter which end of the pad it goes on, as in leading or trailing? I never thought about that until I did the '96 rears last week, I usually just replace them the way I found them... so I did PS and DS opposite so as to only have to redo one side when I found the answer (because my guess is usually wrong).

Wear tabs are supposed to be placed on the trailing end of the pad
 
Not refuting your wisdom, but do you have an example of where slider pins caused just the OUTER pad to wear down to metal, while the inner was fine?
If I read the post correctly JohnVee said it was the inside of the rotor that felt like pants from the 1980's.
 
If I read the post correctly JohnVee said it was the inside of the rotor that felt like pants from the 1980's.

For the record, I had a pair of cords in the 2000s :flipoff2:

Yes I know he did, which is why I suggested to check bearings. If you're saying that's not related to bearings, then do you have an example of the pins seizing causing the outer pads to wear? Meaning, showing the same symptom on the opposite side because the pins are shared side to side. If you're right, the same symptom should be possible on either side.

If it's a moving caliper, like my 14b or s110, then yes, I'd definitely check the sliding components. If a fixed caliper like cruisers have, then more often than not imo John's issue is caused by wheel bearings, specifically when the inner pad is worn disproportionately.

Again, trying to learn more by understanding your thought process.
 
For the record, I had a pair of cords in the 2000s :flipoff2:

Yes I know he did, which is why I suggested to check bearings. If you're saying that's not related to bearings, then do you have an example of the pins seizing causing the outer pads to wear? Meaning, showing the same symptom on the opposite side because the pins are shared side to side. If you're right, the same symptom should be possible on either side.

If it's a moving caliper, like my 14b or s110, then yes, I'd definitely check the sliding components. If a fixed caliper like cruisers have, then more often than not imo John's issue is caused by wheel bearings, specifically when the inner pad is worn disproportionately.

Again, trying to learn more by understanding your thought process.

Ahh, sorry .... I missed the connection you were making with the wheel bearings. I see your point. I was dismissing the bearings from a heat perspective which is what I thought John was asking. From a wear point of view (on a non-floating caliper) you are quite right.
 
I was dismissing the bearings from a heat perspective which is what I thought John was asking.
Yes, that was the intent of my question since my assumption was that the junked pins were the cause of the abnormal wear and the heat that must have been generated over the period of massive pad loss might have affected the bearings.
If a fixed caliper like cruisers have, then more often than not imo John's issue is caused by wheel bearings, specifically when the inner pad is worn disproportionately.
So does the 6 & 12 and 3 & 9 wiggle test apply to the rear? It's tight as can be from both of them.
 
Yes, that was the intent of my question since my assumption was that the junked pins were the cause of the abnormal wear and the heat that must have been generated over the period of massive pad loss might have affected the bearings.

So does the 6 & 12 and 3 & 9 wiggle test apply to the rear? It's tight as can be from both of them.
John,

The 6/12, 3/9 can apply to the rear, but your bearings would have to be reeeeally bad to get much movement. In my experience, you hear a rear bearing going bad long before you experience movement or slop. Usually you'll hear a roaring sound.

The rear calipers on a LX470 are not fixed calipers. They are floating. They ride on two pins (actually large bolts) with little expandable accordion dust boots. There is only one piston on each rear caliper and it is inboard. The "pins" are known for rusting and causing uneven brake wear. I fought the problem on the LX that I had.

I think your bearings are fine. If anything, replace or at least clean up and grease the "pins."
 
The whole truck is a part and i took the easy route. Send everything to the sandblaster. With the mess that i made in my garage when i was sandblasting stuff, it was well worth to pay for that part of the job. The parts are clean and amazingly nice. I primed everything that i got back. “ well i try at least to do it. We are working on luis shop and he is a great painter but doesnt have patience for my paint mistakes”. So he prime it. I am working on body work now. Trying to use at least filler as i can. But over all everything looks like the truck will not be parted out. 😁

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They ride on two pins (actually large bolts) with little expandable accordion dust boots.
Yep. Pins arrived yesterday. Boots arrive today. Seems crazy that nobody local had these parts on the shelf.
 
Replaced the washer fluid diverter valve on Sarah's 450. This fixed the common problem of the windshield getting sprayed when activating the rear sprayer with nothing spraying on the rear glass. This is located on the upper DS fender just a few inches down and about 6 inches from the firewall IIRC. Remove one bolt, unplug the electric connector, remove the hoses from the bottom and side of the old diverter, then remove the upper hose from the L-shaped connector where it enters the hood. $48. Best 2 minute fix I've done in a long time. Now to do my other 80's!

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So does the 6 & 12 and 3 & 9 wiggle test apply to the rear? It's tight as can be from both of them.

No. The e-brake shoes inside the rotor hat of the rear axle on an 80 will prevent you from detecting any real movement in the wheel bearings.
 
:lol: why do lexus guys always have to point out that it's not a "Toyota" :lol: It's still an 80 dummy!!

EDIT: No johnny, a 470 is not an 80. :doh:
 
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