TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (2 Viewers)

[Rice]

If possible, never let someone else work on your rig! (Says the guy that is working on someone else's rig)

He paid someone to install a painless kit.

Twist and tape ... no solder anywhere.

And to cap it off, here is the charge wire for the ammeter!!! Lucky for him the guy couldn't get the truck to start.

 

[NCFJ]

Damn

 

[NCFJ]

I wish I had a nickel for every time I've heard "I wish I had your job" Well not so much today! I had to massage the floorboard a bit to accommodate the drive line. This is me coming out from under the truck. This truck was stuck n the surf somewhere for sure. Far more on the floor than on me. We took over 3" out of the passenger side quarter panel.

 

[NCFJ]

The 80 series frame is a bit tight to fit the standard LS3 front drive set up so I went with the Holly set up with the AC up high. I like it. Mating up the trans and motor goes much smoother with a couple load levelers. Looks right at home in Jolly, an 80 series.

 

[joyRidaz]

Not a Space-X engineering feat but I did finally get a new lock cylinder for my security console. Now my non-working cobra cb radio from the 80’s is safe. More there for a deterrent than for security functionality. now I need to fins a locking solution for my cargo drawers. Maybe a lockable


Also go my tag that expired in 04/18 replaced with a new plate, so it’s now street legal. No inspection needed going forward since it’s passed the vintage threshold ... thank goodness since my cat and muffler have been off since they HCC two or three years ago.

 

[stevezero]

Probably cause a 470 is a 100

Could also be a 120 series, if the 470 is a GX, not an LX. LOL

 

[SFROMAN]

I wish I had a nickel for every time I've heard "I wish I had your job" Well not so much today! I had to massage the floorboard a bit to accommodate the drive line. This is me coming out from under the truck. This truck was stuck n the surf somewhere for sure. Far more on the floor than on me. We took over 3" out of the passenger side quarter panel.

it looks like your taking a nap instead of working. Haha

 

[NCFJ]

LOL, you are accustomed to waking up covered in sand Del

 

[joyRidaz]

Not wrenching, not really engineering either, but thrilled I was able to figure out how to program my little four pack of bandito radios to use FSR so they will finally be compatible. Baofeng bf-888s... dang haven’t really done anything cool yet and I already got the itch... might have to upgrade

 

[Pick]

I can't really complain, the Jeep has been surprisingly reliable especially for two 16yo first driver boys but it eats electrical components. In the past couple of months I've replaced the crankshaft position sensor, throttle position sensor and last night the blower motor fan resistor. At least they've been (relatively) easy to access...

 

[CUSailor]

So I'm back on my noisy hub. Started to get the whir whir whir again around 30 mph. I know that things are torqued to spec, but I'm not equally as confident that I packed the bearings perfect since it was my first time on ones that big.

Is there any way to tell if it's the bearings that need to be pulled/replaced/repacked vs. the new calipers/brake pads not playing nice with the old rotor. When I park it, Jack it up and manually rotate the tires I hear slight grinding from the pads rubbing but can't replicate the noise I hear while driving.

 

[roadstr6]

So I'm back on my noisy hub. Started to get the whir whir whir again around 30 mph. I know that things are torqued to spec, but I'm not equally as confident that I packed the bearings perfect since it was my first time on ones that big.

Is there any way to tell if it's the bearings that need to be pulled/replaced/repacked vs. the new calipers/brake pads not playing nice with the old rotor. When I park it, Jack it up and manually rotate the tires I hear slight grinding from the pads rubbing but can't replicate the noise I hear while driving.

Whir whir whir? Any chance you can video it to let us know what it sounds like? Slight grind of pads is normal.

 

[CUSailor]

Whir whir whir? Any chance you can video it to let us know what it sounds like? Slight grind of pads is normal.

Good idea, I'll try to capture it tonight. I hope it's something that can be heard rather than felt if that makes any sense.

 

[roadstr6]

Good idea, I'll try to capture it tonight. I hope it's something that can be heard rather than felt if that makes any sense.

You recently replaced your tie rod ends, right? Any chance the new ones are bigger and possibly rubbing on the inside lip of the wheel? Clearances are pretty tight there, depending on wheel backspace and rod end girth.

 

[CUSailor]

You recently replaced your tie rod ends, right? Any chance the new ones are bigger and possibly rubbing on the inside lip of the wheel? Clearances are pretty tight there, depending on wheel backspace and rod end girth.

Left the tie rods alone when I did the knuckle rebuild. Just popped the knuckle cap (not sure if right term) off, pushed it aside and then reattached and retorqued with original shims. I'm going to get some pictures and video here in an hour or so. If it is the bearings it's not the end of the world, I just really don't want to dive back into that grease pit of a hub if I don't have to.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Left the tie rods alone when I did the knuckle rebuild. Just popped the knuckle cap (not sure if right term) off, pushed it aside and then reattached and retorqued with original shims. I'm going to get some pictures and video here in an hour or so. If it is the bearings it's not the end of the world, I just really don't want to dive back into that grease pit of a hub if I don't have to.

The only thing i can imagine messing up on the bearings is the preload...it's not like you can put them in backwards (someone probably has tried before tho!). I use the Landtank method for preload and have not had any issues, but always try to recheck after a couple hundred miles (the times I have followed the FSM, they are always a bit loose when rechecking). Also check the hubs for too much heat via touch (meaning the bearings may be too tight).

Could the calipers be slightly larger / the previous ones were ground and they are now rubbing on the inside of the wheel? Kinda spit-balling ideas.

Also - do you by chance have the hubs locked by accident?

 

[CUSailor]

The only thing i can imagine messing up on the bearings is the preload...it's not like you can put them in backwards (someone probably has tried before tho!). I use the Landtank method for preload and have not had any issues, but always try to recheck after a couple hundred miles (the times I have followed the FSM, they are always a bit loose when rechecking). Also check the hubs for too much heat via touch (meaning the bearings may be too tight).

Could the calipers be slightly larger / the previous ones were ground and they are now rubbing on the inside of the wheel? Kinda spit-balling ideas.

Also - do you by chance have the hubs locked by accident?

You can't see much from the photos, but someone might catch something I missed.

I need to look up that method for preload, I didn't have a tool to measure so just went off of best guess. If I did mess it up would it be a constant hum? I couldn't get the sound on video, it's such a deep noise and the vibration is coming more through the vehicle than anything. It isn't constant, I hear it more at 35-40 than I do at 55, but sometimes it's more severe, sometimes I can't get it to sound at all. That's one reason I'm hoping it's the pads, I would guess if it's a bearing it's going to be consistent.

I'll get it on the highway for a short bit and check the hubs and the rotors with an infrared thermometer, I didn't think of that. I would assume comparing to the passenger side will tell me where the friction is.

The hubs say it's in 4x2, one thing I did though is put a lot of grease in the locking mechanism. Should that have been dry? Is it possible it locks itself from the pressure? These are the Warn hubs so I didn't have those spelled out in the fsm.

The calipers are supposed to be oem remanufactured ones (from O'Reilly's). It doesnt look like the inside pad is backing off the rotor at all.

I appreciate the brainstorming ideas. I would also add that if anyone is in or around Concord I'll meet you at a brewery of your choice and pay for your consulting time in beer if need be.

 

[NCFJ]

Finally mounted the 5.3L in Heather's truck. A long time coming for sure. Truth, I needed the floor space for another LS3 arriving for a customer truck. Still some progress on a truck that lives here

 

[Rice]

You can't see much from the photos, but someone might catch something I missed.

I need to look up that method for preload, I didn't have a tool to measure so just went off of best guess. If I did mess it up would it be a constant hum? I couldn't get the sound on video, it's such a deep noise and the vibration is coming more through the vehicle than anything. It isn't constant, I hear it more at 35-40 than I do at 55, but sometimes it's more severe, sometimes I can't get it to sound at all. That's one reason I'm hoping it's the pads, I would guess if it's a bearing it's going to be consistent.

I'll get it on the highway for a short bit and check the hubs and the rotors with an infrared thermometer, I didn't think of that. I would assume comparing to the passenger side will tell me where the friction is.

The hubs say it's in 4x2, one thing I did though is put a lot of grease in the locking mechanism. Should that have been dry? Is it possible it locks itself from the pressure? These are the Warn hubs so I didn't have those spelled out in the fsm.

The calipers are supposed to be oem remanufactured ones (from O'Reilly's). It doesnt look like the inside pad is backing off the rotor at all.

I appreciate the brainstorming ideas. I would also add that if anyone is in or around Concord I'll meet you at a brewery of your choice and pay for your consulting time in beer if need be.

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Additional notes to add to everyone else ...

1. You will not actually see a pad back off from the rotor so your determination of whether or not it is doing as it should is raise it and see how much drag there is. A small amount will always be present.

2. While the vehicle is raised take a quick look on the inside of the wheel to verify there is no wheel-to-caliper rub, just in case the new caliper needs some grinding.

3. When you replaced the races are you sure they bottomed out on the landings?

4. If you are at the speed where the sound/vibration is the worst and put slight pressure on the brakes, is there any pulsing in the pedal?

 

[CUSailor]

Additional notes to add to everyone else ...

1. You will not actually see a pad back off from the rotor so your determination of whether or not it is doing as it should is raise it and see how much drag there is. A small amount will always be present.

2. While the vehicle is raised take a quick look on the inside of the wheel to verify there is no wheel-to-caliper rub, just in case the new caliper needs some grinding.

3. When you replaced the races are you sure they bottomed out on the landings?

4. If you are at the speed where the sound/vibration is the worst and put slight pressure on the brakes, is there any pulsing in the pedal?

Thanks for the advice Rice. It's good to know especially point 1, I am very new with brake work so I assumed that you'd be able to see some light between the pad and the rotor.

Point 2, I'll raise it up today and do another spin of the wheel. I don't think I noticed any rubbing, but I don't want to assume at this point.

Point 3. I'm starting to question everything, so I can't say that I'm certain, but I'm 99% sure. I ground the old races down slightly in circumference and used them with a 4lb deadblow hammer to get the new races seated. I went till they felt snug, went a little more, then tried to feel with my fingernail under the race to ensure there was no gap. It felt good to me at the time, and I made a conscious effort to drive them all the way in.

4. No pulsing on the pedal, but the brakes do feel very light. In fact every once in a while I'll have my brake light flash on for less than a second when braking. I haven't had any trouble stopping, but the brakes do not feel like they used to. I attributed this to a new MC/Brake booster I installed, although I am thinking about taking it to a shop just to do a general tuneup on it. I flushed the front brake lines after replacing the calipers and my fluid looks good, but there may be something wrong there.

I think my next course of action is to get a longer drive on it, 30+ minutes. That should give time for anything that needs to heat up to heat up. Hit it with the infrared thermometer to see if that gives me any clue. If that doesn't make it obvious I'll take the hub back apart, repack everything, or even replace the bearings/races again (I didn't do the passenger side so I have an extra set on hand). If that fails to fix the problem then I'll take it to a professional brake shop. That will keep me from spending money until I've exhausted all my options.