TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (4 Viewers)

[Rice]

That's it then, I have Warn. Mystery solved. What is the name of it so I can look for a torque spec?

There is a minimal amount of loading on that bolt ... a dab of blue (not red) loctite if you have any and then "good-n-snug".

 

[CUSailor]

Last question, I hope, on this topic. I'm struggling to get the axle back in. I have the flat spots top and bottom but the splines aren't going in. I've tried rotating it slightly both directions and still hitting at the same point. I'm worried about putting too much upward or downward force and damaging the inner oil seal. Is this one of those things that you just keep going till it works, or is it possible something in the differential it's out of whack?

Edit: got it, just keep pushing. Looking forward to seeing if I need to replace that seal after this

 

[GLTHFJ60]

For the future, it can help to rotate the pinion slightly.

 

[FJinTegaCay]

With the Dobinsons lift and new tires, the was finding it more difficult to get in and out of the 40 and figured it best to do something about it to ensure future improvements would be supported.

I read in the GA Architect’s build thread where he added assist bars and found some on SOR that we’re supposed to fit. The holes were off by a half inch from the stock screw holes, but with some not so gentle persuasion in my vice, the two I installed fit perfectly.

Happy wife, happy life.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Changed the diff and transfer case fluid, engine air filter, cabin air filters and greased driveshafts and ujoints in the lx470.

Used Mobil 1 75w90 synthetic. Is it just me or does it seem really thin compared to 80w90?

 

[FJinTegaCay]

On Saturday I headed deeper into SC to help @elkaholic construct a new deck. On a back-country road last paved shortly after Reconstruction, despite the new suspension, the truck was taking a beating. As I pulled away from the stop sign at the end of this segment, the transmission engaged while the clutch pedal was still very close to the floor. I was left to wonder, had the bumpy road somehow shaken something loose and was this for the best or was I at risk of being stranded.

After parking in Sam’s driveway, a puddle of brake fluid quickly formed as the contents of the recently replaced clutch master cylinder spilled to the ground. Sure enough, the clutch slave cylinder was done for.

While we built the deck, Sam’s fiancé headed to Dollar General to see if she could find brake fluid. She purchased two large bottles of the only name-brand they had - Peak.

After admiring our handiwork, the view of the lake and a cold beverage, Sam and I topped off the clutch master reservoir, bled the system and made plans for me to make the 60 mile drive home.

After about 20 minutes, the fluid had drained out and I had to pull into a gravel lot to keep from getting stuck at an intersection. Two vehicles were kind enough to stop to help me try to bleed the system, without much luck. The recently installed gear reduction starter was a huge help in helped me to get moving and I miraculously managed to get on the Interstate and all the way into 4th gear. (Prayer works!)

Fortunately I had packed my earphones and was able to call my wife to meet me just off the Interstate near home to lend a hand and to provide moral support. After topping off the reservoir again at the top of the exit ramp (no bleeding needed as the slave squirted a stream of fluid as I depressed the clutch pedal), I snuck through the green/yellow light and took country roads home so as to avoid all but the two stoplights in my small town. After stalling out at the first red light, I topped it off again, had my wife trigger sensor for the light, and drove the final mile to our home.

I called Town & Country Toyota the next morning and had them add a OEM clutch slave cylinder to my existing order. I picked it up this afternoon and installed it tonight. It was a 1 job (my kind of wrenching) and worked perfectly the first time.

My 40 has been a great truck and with recent upgrades, it’s been more pleasurable to drive. I love that I knew enough to not only limp it home and get it running again.

Let this be a cautionary tale. Although I was told the clutch slave didn’t need replacing when the master was recently replaced, I’d recommend to everyone that you replace them both at the same time in hopes of avoiding what happened to me.

Below are pics of the old and new as everyone loves pictures.

 

[JohnVee]

Although I was told the clutch slave didn’t need replacing when the master was recently replaced...

Trust was your first mistake! But at least you had around 30 highway miles to help you out. Oh, and you're probably correct with your Reconstruction comment (I've had a similar thought on the same roads there).

Congrats on doing it all yourself. That was one of my earliest successes with my 40.

 

[Malleus]

Just completed the leak repair for the sunroof: I replaced the stock front drain tubes with scavenged rear drain tubes, which are about 8 inches longer, but the same size. I removed the rearmost of the two body bolts securing the inner fender to the outer fender from underneath (I don't expect I'll miss it, and one lost its weldnut anyway) and drilled out the hole to allow the tube to fall out of the bottom of the panel. This allows the sunroof to drain directly onto the pavement (as it should have all along) instead of draining into the inner fender well and thence to the rocker panel (where it just sits, until you pull the plugs and rock the boat).

The mod drops the tube directly in front of and inside of the running board, so you don't lose them if you like them ( Sarah and I do, Charlie doesn't). Details to follow (this was posted by someone else a couple of years back on the 80 forum, but I've lost the thread).

Monsoon tested, courtesy of the three days of nearly nonstop rain here, and I'm declaring victory. Carpet and firewall are both as dry as I could want.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

On Saturday I headed deeper into SC to help @elkaholic construct a new deck. On a back-country road last paved shortly after Reconstruction, despite the new suspension, the truck was taking a beating. As I pulled away from the stop sign at the end of this segment, the transmission engaged while the clutch pedal was still very close to the floor. I was left to wonder, had the bumpy road somehow shaken something loose and was this for the best or was I at risk of being stranded.

After parking in Sam’s driveway, a puddle of brake fluid quickly formed as the contents of the recently replaced clutch master cylinder spilled to the ground. Sure enough, the clutch slave cylinder was done for.

While we built the deck, Sam’s fiancé headed to Dollar General to see if she could find brake fluid. She purchased two large bottles of the only name-brand they had - Peak.

After admiring our handiwork, the view of the lake and a cold beverage, Sam and I topped off the clutch master reservoir, bled the system and made plans for me to make the 60 mile drive home.

After about 20 minutes, the fluid had drained out and I had to pull into a gravel lot to keep from getting stuck at an intersection. Two vehicles were kind enough to stop to help me try to bleed the system, without much luck. The recently installed gear reduction starter was a huge help in helped me to get moving and I miraculously managed to get on the Interstate and all the way into 4th gear. (Prayer works!)

Fortunately I had packed my earphones and was able to call my wife to meet me just off the Interstate near home to lend a hand and to provide moral support. After topping off the reservoir again at the top of the exit ramp (no bleeding needed as the slave squirted a stream of fluid as I depressed the clutch pedal), I snuck through the green/yellow light and took country roads home so as to avoid all but the two stoplights in my small town. After stalling out at the first red light, I topped it off again, had my wife trigger sensor for the light, and drove the final mile to our home.

I called Town & Country Toyota the next morning and had them add a OEM clutch slave cylinder to my existing order. I picked it up this afternoon and installed it tonight. It was a 1 job (my kind of wrenching) and worked perfectly the first time.

My 40 has been a great truck and with recent upgrades, it’s been more pleasurable to drive. I love that I knew enough to not only limp it home and get it running again.

Let this be a cautionary tale. Although I was told the clutch slave didn’t need replacing when the master was recently replaced, I’d recommend to everyone that you replace them both at the same time in hopes of avoiding what happened to me.

Below are pics of the old and new as everyone loves pictures.
View attachment 2312458View attachment 2312459

That's happened to me before as well. Sucks, but at least you can still *carefully* drive it home!

 

[Fort Knox]

I had the clutch slave go out on me literally as I turned the corner onto my street on the way home from work one day. Perfect timing.

I definitely agree.....if you have to replace the master cylinder, best to do the slave at the same time. Funny thing about hydraulic pressure.....it always seems to find the weak point!

 

[mtweller]

Just completed the leak repair for the sunroof: I replaced the stock front drain tubes with scavenged rear drain tubes, which are about 8 inches longer, but the same size. I removed the rearmost of the two body bolts securing the inner fender to the outer fender from underneath (I don't expect I'll miss it, and one lost its weldnut anyway) and drilled out the hole to allow the tube to fall out of the bottom of the panel. This allows the sunroof to drain directly onto the pavement (as it should have all along) instead of draining into the inner fender well and thence to the rocker panel (where it just sits, until you pull the plugs and rock the boat).

The mod drops the tube directly in front of and inside of the running board, so you don't lose them if you like them ( Sarah and I do, Charlie doesn't). Details to follow (this was posted by someone else a couple of years back on the 80 forum, but I've lost the thread).

Monsoon tested, courtesy of the three days of nearly nonstop rain here, and I'm declaring victory. Carpet and firewall are both as dry as I could want.

I had a clogged sunroof drain on my 200, likely prior to my purchase. With all-weather mats, I hadn't noticed until I was doing some digging after the car was doing some weird electrical things - like the "auto" lights not always turning off when parked in lighted parking lots, the rear AC fans not coming on, etc. This past weekend I think I found and hopefully corrected the problem. There are several mutipin connectors in the d.s. kick panel that had gotten wet and corroded over time. I cleaned them up with a soft bristle brush and some baking soda, then blew out with compressed air. These are very small pins, so I had to be gentle. Everything is working properly as of now, and I know where to attack should it start acting up again. Sunroof drains are such a pain in the ass!

 

[Pick]

^^Good catch and nice work!! I've had really good success with this over the years
CRC QD Electronic Cleaner
...or rubbing alcohol and an acid brush

 

[mtweller]

^^Good catch and nice work!! I've had really good success with this over the years
CRC QD Electronic Cleaner
...or rubbing alcohol and an acid brush

I thought I had some of that on the shelf, and once everything was apart couldn't find it. Wife was not home so I had no way to go buy some. If any of the gremlins reappear, I'll be using some cleaner, either CRC or DeOxit. Thanks for the tip!

 

[Malleus]

I had a clogged sunroof drain on my 200, likely prior to my purchase. With all-weather mats, I hadn't noticed until I was doing some digging after the car was doing some weird electrical things - like the "auto" lights not always turning off when parked in lighted parking lots, the rear AC fans not coming on, etc. This past weekend I think I found and hopefully corrected the problem. There are several mutipin connectors in the d.s. kick panel that had gotten wet and corroded over time. I cleaned them up with a soft bristle brush and some baking soda, then blew out with compressed air. These are very small pins, so I had to be gentle. Everything is working properly as of now, and I know where to attack should it start acting up again. Sunroof drains are such a pain in the ass!

View attachment 2313026View attachment 2313027View attachment 2313028View attachment 2313029View attachment 2313030

For sure, the problem with the kickpanel connectors is that the drain is supposed to fill the pocket so that the water level can rise high enough to spill over into the rocker panel, which works as long as it works. When the rocker panel fills up, there's nowhere for the water to go but higher in the kickpanel pocket. This results in the dirt in there mixing with the water from the sunroof drains and then your connectors are soaked.

There are actually two (or three, depending on how you count) solutions. First replace the seal on the glass. This is almost impossible because Toyota didn't intend for you to do it. Not only is it really hard to get the glass out, but even if you do, there is no seal available. Toyota knew early on that this was a problem, but they chose not to change the design until the 80 was retired. You can replace the seal on the 100s.

Second, fix the drain at the lower end. This is where you have two options. a) remove the rearmost body bolt at the lower end of the inner fender panel and let the water drain out. This may work, unless the bolthole becomes blocked (which is likely). Also, there is a very great potential for water to get in between three body panels you can't reach into. This is the only area I know of in the body that Toyota didn't seal together; b) move the lower end of the drain tube into the hole and out of the body. This is only possible if you replace the factory front drain tube, because it's intentionally too short to reach. This is where the rear drain tubes come in handy. Up until just a few months ago, the front tubes were NLA, but the rear ones were available new. I haven't seen them new lately, but they are almost always in the salvage yards. You need to pull the drain tubes down from the sunroof nipples and pull the new, longer ones down in their place. I had no luck pushing them up from the bottom (actually, I had a snake in there pulling the tube along, but it kept getting caught in the access holes). If the hole diameter you create is just a little larger than the outside diameter of the tubing, you don't even need sealant.

 

[Malleus]

^^Good catch and nice work!! I've had really good success with this over the years
CRC QD Electronic Cleaner
...or rubbing alcohol and an acid brush

I have many cans of CRC cleaner; I love the stuff!

 

[mtweller]

For sure, the problem with the kickpanel connectors is that the drain is supposed to fill the pocket so that the water level can rise high enough to spill over into the rocker panel, which works as long as it works. When the rocker panel fills up, there's nowhere for the water to go but higher in the kickpanel pocket. This results in the dirt in there mixing with the water from the sunroof drains and then your connectors are soaked.

There are actually two (or three, depending on how you count) solutions. First replace the seal on the glass. This is almost impossible because Toyota didn't intend for you to do it. Not only is it really hard to get the glass out, but even if you do, there is no seal available. Toyota knew early on that this was a problem, but they chose not to change the design until the 80 was retired. You can replace the seal on the 100s.

Second, fix the drain at the lower end. This is where you have two options. a) remove the rearmost body bolt at the lower end of the inner fender panel and let the water drain out. This may work, unless the bolthole becomes blocked (which is likely). Also, there is a very great potential for water to get in between three body panels you can't reach into. This is the only area I know of in the body that Toyota didn't seal together; b) move the lower end of the drain tube into the hole and out of the body. This is only possible if you replace the factory front drain tube, because it's intentionally too short to reach. This is where the rear drain tubes come in handy. Up until just a few months ago, the front tubes were NLA, but the rear ones were available new. I haven't seen them new lately, but they are almost always in the salvage yards. You need to pull the drain tubes down from the sunroof nipples and pull the new, longer ones down in their place. I had no luck pushing them up from the bottom (actually, I had a snake in there pulling the tube along, but it kept getting caught in the access holes). If the hole diameter you create is just a little larger than the outside diameter of the tubing, you don't even need sealant.

Mine was actually clogged up in the sunroom drain pan - easy fix. By that point, the damage had been done. I think the water just rolls down into the A-pillar and to the kick panel -> floor board. In my case, the culprit was some little tiny acorn or other berry/nut looking thing about the size of a pea that had lodged right in the corner where the tube connects to the sheetmetal.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Got crazy the past weekend and washed the LX. Sad but I’ve had it 9 months and have put maybe 1200 miles on it.

Cleaned up a Thule roof box and then swapped out the rear lift hatch struts.

All tucked in and dry from the monsoon we are experiencing.

Tomorrow I hope to do an AHC fluid flush and maybe just maybe swap out the steering rack bushings. I hear that sucks.

FYI - the HF in Durham had a very limited selection of nitrile gloves today. They get a truck in every Thursday and should have more on the shelves Friday. 2box limit.

 

[roadstr6]

Got crazy the past weekend and washed the LX. Sad but I’ve had it 9 months and have put maybe 1200 miles on it.

Cleaned up a Thule roof box and then swapped out the rear lift hatch struts.

All tucked in and dry from the monsoon we are experiencing.

View attachment 2313495

Tomorrow I hope to do an AHC fluid flush and maybe just maybe swap out the steering rack bushings. I hear that sucks.

FYI - the HF in Durham had a very limited selection of nitrile gloves today. They get a truck in every Thursday and should have more on the shelves Friday. 2box limit.

If you aren’t using the LX, you can always sell it to me!

 

[NCFJ]

These things just never get old This one is going into a 96 80 series. Gone is the AWD T-case, in goes the 60 series split case with twin sticks.

Six bolt mains, 430HP 420 ft/pd in stock form. Reliable as hell. Gotta love them

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

With the Dobinsons lift and new tires, the was finding it more difficult to get in and out of the 40 and figured it best to do something about it to ensure future improvements would be supported.

I read in the GA Architect’s build thread where he added assist bars and found some on SOR that we’re supposed to fit. The holes were off by a half inch from the stock screw holes, but with some not so gentle persuasion in my vice, the two I installed fit perfectly.

Happy wife, happy life.

View attachment 2309826

I have those and they are very handy