TWT -- The Wrenching Thread

[ROBsSON]

Well I guess I need wheel spacers the my tie rod keeps knocking off the weights....I have to take it back and get them to put in flat weights when I have time again but the wheel and tie rod shouldn't be less than half an inch from each other right? I'm guessing the wheel itself has the incorrect back spacing for the 60.

Anyone have any experience with this?

 

[jfz80]

I had a similar issues with sequoia wheels on a SOA 55. You can grab cheapy 1/4" spacers at a local parts store or go to stick on weights like you mentioned. I did balancing beads because it wasnt to be a dd

 

[ROBsSON]

That must have been a big pig! Yeah I'm gonna see if they can just do the stick on weights this next time and if I make it I won't worry about spacers but I might look into just getting 1"-1 1/2" to make sure I'm good.

 

[Rice]

That must have been a big pig! Yeah I'm gonna see if they can just do the stick on weights this next time and if I make it I won't worry about spacers but I might look into just getting 1"-1 1/2" to make sure I'm good.

I suggest not going any bigger on spacers than required (in this case about 1/4" as Jason mentioned). 1.5" is not a big deal compared to, say, 3" but the fact remains that increased bearing and spindle loads will result.

The other thing that happens is moving the wheels out adds to unwanted torque feedback at the steering wheel.

 

[ROBsSON]

I suggest not going any bigger on spacers than required (in this case about 1/4" as Jason mentioned). 1.5" is not a big deal compared to, say, 3" but the fact remains that increased bearing and spindle loads will result.

The other thing that happens is moving the wheels out adds to unwanted torque feedback at the steering wheel.

Yeah I'm ordering a set of the 1/4" ones to try again tomorrow I don't wanna go more than an 1" 1 1/2" if I can avoid it

A buddy of mine was running 3" spacers on his 4runner and we'll I'd like to avoid it haha

 

[stevezero]

have they tried to turn the tire and mount it somewhere else on the wheel? maybe it will take a bit less weight to balance.

 

[NCFJ]

have they tried to turn the tire and mount it somewhere else on the wheel? maybe it will take a bit less weight to balance.

That one made me laugh. Maybe if you stand there and watch them and tell them to try it. But that involves more work for them................

 

[stevezero]

That one made me laugh. Maybe if you stand there and watch them and tell them to try it. But that involves more work for them................

I did just that. i was watching them mount and balance a set of bfg all terrains on my old taco, and one was taking a huge amount of weight right at the valvestem area. i politely suggested that they try to spin it around 180 degrees and see how much weight it would take, or mount up another BFG. The did it, and it took only 3/4 oz to balance. Sometimes its good to know the tire guys.

 

[ROBsSON]

That one made me laugh. Maybe if you stand there and watch them and tell them to try it. But that involves more work for them................

Well he tried telling me that I had two different size rims in the front and back and it was hitting the caliper so I took a knee next to him and asked is it maybe the tie rod and we'll now I'm trying to space out my rims alittle.

I did just that. i was watching them mount and balance a set of bfg all terrains on my old taco, and one was taking a huge amount of weight right at the valvestem area. i politely suggested that they try to spin it around 180 degrees and see how much weight it would take, or mount up another BFG. The did it, and it took only 3/4 oz to balance. Sometimes its good to know the tire guys.

Him and another guy seemed baffled by this whole thing and then they pulled out the flat weights which I'm sure will work especially with the 1/4 inch spacer.

I do wish I still was at an army base where I could go do this myself... only hook ups I got are at the car wash haha

 

[ROBsSON]

Going to have them do the flat spacers today and see if they can do that. One of the weights still is on there and the vibrations and shake is almost gone so I'm sure once it's fully balanced it'll be good to go.

@Rice i pulled the vacuum line and it died on me so maybe the carb just needs a light tune? It only runs one vacuum line valves are all still set the way they should be. Got some cleaner for the carb gonna take it off and just clean it and hopefully get lucky with that.

Only other thing would be spark plugs and distributor right?

 

[Rice]

Going to have them do the flat spacers today and see if they can do that. One of the weights still is on there and the vibrations and shake is almost gone so I'm sure once it's fully balanced it'll be good to go.

@Rice i pulled the vacuum line and it died on me so maybe the carb just needs a light tune? It only runs one vacuum line valves are all still set the way they should be. Got some cleaner for the carb gonna take it off and just clean it and hopefully get lucky with that.

Only other thing would be spark plugs and distributor right?

The motor konking out with the vacuum line pulled is a good sign .... exactly what it should do. We know now it isn't running rich and can check for a lean condition. Therefore, look for a vacuum leak by spraying some hydrocarbon material around the sealed surfaces (intake, carb gasket, etc) as mentioned by Johnny above.

FYI .... in case it is a vacuum leak you want to limit your driving so you don't burn a valve.

 

[Trollhole]

I'm betting it's distributor related. What vac port on the distributor is connected? Where does that hose run to on the motor? Should be connected to the carb. Every other Vac port except the PCV and the brake booster ports should be capped off.


Put a timing light on the BB and see if it fluctuates between rpms. At 1000-1200 your mechanical advance should start to open which will cause idle fluctuations if you are idling that high. On webers with A/C we set them at about 750 rpms. With the A/C on it should be around 650. I cant remember if A weber has an idle jet or if it runs idle off the venturis. If so then most likely your carb idle screw is open too much and your running off the transition or the venturis.

Johnny Webers suck. I have a whole pile to prove it. Most customers have no idea how to set them up and they either run rich at idle or lean at WOT. Plus the air cleaners flat out suck.

 

[ROBsSON]

@Rice getting ready to check this out and look for any leakes around the carb and manifold, they are putting on the flat weights now north front tires have no inner weights so I'm hoping after this it'll be smoother ride. But the truck will be parked after this unless I get it running right don't wanna chance anything bad happening.

@Trollhole I had Georg from valley hybrid suggest a timing light last time I rebuilt my carb and adjusted my valves on my old 60 honestly I just don't know how to use it but I might have to just go ahead and learn. I've heard good things about your carbs and honestly that might be what I go with after a while. My dad landcrusher909 had good things to say about it so might hear from me on that sooner or later haha
As for the adjustments I've read bunch about guys doing it and got some info from Weber about the adjustment and am going to try baselineing and adjusting from that either today or tomorrow. Hopefully get it good enough to run for a bit.

 

[roadstr6]

Plus the air cleaners flat out suck.

The ability to use the factory air cleaner alone is worth the price of admission of a TH carb. The Weber air cleaners do suck. They suck dirt, they suck hot air and I had one to try to suck one of the little base plate screws into my engine! Luckily it got lodged in my choke plate and I was able to remove it before it got any further down.

 

[ROBsSON]

lucky break there for sure . Yeah I've been looking at that or finding a cheap way of putting a snorkel on it cuz I mean come on how cool are those things

 

[ROBsSON]

So sprayed around the base of the carb and sure enough it started to idle higher, I'm guessing this is meaning it's leaking there?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Yes.

 

[ROBsSON]

Thanks everyone didn't mean to take over the thread, but managed to tear out the last of the smog stuff and clean up re cap and put in a new vacuum line from the distributor to the carb ordered a rebuild kit for the Weber. Wish I could make it our to thank everyone but hope you guys all have fun!

Thanks again
Will

 

[NCFJ]

Thanks everyone didn't mean to take over the thread, but managed to tear out the last of the smog stuff and clean up re cap and put in a new vacuum line from the distributor to the carb ordered a rebuild kit for the Weber. Wish I could make it our to thank everyone but hope you guys all have fun!

Thanks again
Will

No worries, that's what this thread is for.
Start a build thread on the 60 board too, tons of knowledge there as well.

 

[SFROMAN]

This truck is going to be the death of me. On my way to logans run 17. Luckily I was able to get to the side of the road without hitting anyone. The steering went out on me. Back to the drawing board. I will eventually get this right.