YES!! Dynamic timing advance for more injection timing advance at mid-"high" RPM (left side). Second is a piston fuel pump to replace the diaphragm fuel pump for more pressure and flow, for more power potential.
Time to start tuning this thing
TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (1 Viewer)
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YES!! Dynamic timing advance for more injection timing advance at mid-"high" RPM (left side). Second is a piston fuel pump to replace the diaphragm fuel pump for more pressure and flow, for more power potential.
Time to start tuning this thing
Your fuel pressure looking better with the new pump then?!YES!! Dynamic timing advance for more injection timing advance at mid-"high" RPM (left side). Second is a piston fuel pump to replace the diaphragm fuel pump for more pressure and flow, for more power potential.
Time to start tuning this thing
lt1fire
SILVER Star
YES!! Dynamic timing advance for more injection timing advance at mid-"high" RPM (left side). Second is a piston fuel pump to replace the diaphragm fuel pump for more pressure and flow, for more power potential.
Time to start tuning this thing
Did I hear compound turbos???
. 15psi at idle now instead of 5, 17psi on deceleration.
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
Stabbed the engine in this evening and got the pilot bearing and flywheel installed. Always be sure to pre-fit the pilot bearing onto the transmission input shaft...mine required significant sanding with an emory cloth. Probably since the previous pilot bearing was separated into two peices and some balls with the inner race almost welded to the input snout.
Removed and replaced the contacts in the starter on my '96 LX. The old contacts were toast. I forgot to take a pic and think I threw them out...gotta look. They had to be original. 294k miles.
Oh, yeah...I will admit to "URQING" it up. Recall when @jamesurq had his little problem with the positive battery terminal contacting the hood of his 40? I put the truck in the garage and got it on stands, tire off, inner fender skirt removed, and tools out the night before. Notice anything missing there? I made the mistake of waking up early and going right out there to get started. Morning Fog Brain forgot to unhook the battery. That damn starter batt+ is really in an awkward spot. Made wrench to batt+ to trans dip tube contact. Let go of the wrench. Watched it start glowing red. Saw more sparks. Saw the nice coating of oil all over that side of the underbody start to flame up. Fire extinguisher (and a quick 10mm to the battery terminal) to the rescue. So now I need a new trans fill tube and dip stick...the current ones have a bit of a hole burned into them and they're now welded together. ****ing idiot. I know electric; I'm not always that dumb. Truck works fine now, though.
I never thought that "don't burn down your parents house while working on your truck" should ever have been my birthday wish. I will make sure to do that in 2020.
Oh, yeah...I will admit to "URQING" it up. Recall when @jamesurq had his little problem with the positive battery terminal contacting the hood of his 40? I put the truck in the garage and got it on stands, tire off, inner fender skirt removed, and tools out the night before. Notice anything missing there? I made the mistake of waking up early and going right out there to get started. Morning Fog Brain forgot to unhook the battery. That damn starter batt+ is really in an awkward spot. Made wrench to batt+ to trans dip tube contact. Let go of the wrench. Watched it start glowing red. Saw more sparks. Saw the nice coating of oil all over that side of the underbody start to flame up. Fire extinguisher (and a quick 10mm to the battery terminal) to the rescue. So now I need a new trans fill tube and dip stick...the current ones have a bit of a hole burned into them and they're now welded together. ****ing idiot. I know electric; I'm not always that dumb. Truck works fine now, though.
I never thought that "don't burn down your parents house while working on your truck" should ever have been my birthday wish. I will make sure to do that in 2020.
One big project (for a peewee wrencher) and 9 small items to check off this weekend. Sensor/spacer lift on the LX because AHC is nifty and I kinda want to see if this works. Replacing all the shock rubber and bushings, no thanks to Lexus who have previously been very cool but wouldn’t sell me the bushings. Kitten shredded the transfer case diagram while I was on the phone with them, so I guess that’s as good a sign as any that I have no business in there anytime soon.
Extremely luckily for me, there is a shop about a quarter mile from my house that will handle the pressing so I won’t have to walk far. Wonder if the dog would tolerate a shock strapped to her back?
Extremely luckily for me, there is a shop about a quarter mile from my house that will handle the pressing so I won’t have to walk far. Wonder if the dog would tolerate a shock strapped to her back?
I removed my front seats, hoping to see an easy swap with the Volvo xc70 seats...no go on either side. Boo, hissss.
So, I removed crappy seat covers from the original seats, duct tape the cracks and tears, and installed some new dickies brand tan covers. My seat recline knobs were missing, so when I was at LKQ a while back, I grabbed every toyota or lexus button that may work. I drilled a small hole in the pivoting switch, and installed a small screw. I had to grind one edge of the screw. I also had to use an xacto to notch out the button. They both now work like a champ.
On the drivers seat I added a couple pieces of foam to the seat bottom. Time will tell if i like them.
No pics though.
So, I removed crappy seat covers from the original seats, duct tape the cracks and tears, and installed some new dickies brand tan covers. My seat recline knobs were missing, so when I was at LKQ a while back, I grabbed every toyota or lexus button that may work. I drilled a small hole in the pivoting switch, and installed a small screw. I had to grind one edge of the screw. I also had to use an xacto to notch out the button. They both now work like a champ.
On the drivers seat I added a couple pieces of foam to the seat bottom. Time will tell if i like them.
No pics though.
...and none of that really happened. 
Ugh.
For @roadstr6 so it can be shown that it did happen. Lol
Dave, I finally got an email on Thursday "releasing" me from my CP assignment. They finally realized that I was NOT going to start the training, because I was NOT going to be around after 3/29. Could also be because I tried registering for instructor led training in FL too. LOLOL
Dave, I finally got an email on Thursday "releasing" me from my CP assignment. They finally realized that I was NOT going to start the training, because I was NOT going to be around after 3/29. Could also be because I tried registering for instructor led training in FL too. LOLOL
Good job on those seats! Good to see that that little project actually did happen after all. Thinking about you, bud.
While disconnecting my front drive shaft from my transfer case, I noticed I have a leak from the front differential flange. Trying to put together the pieces to repair...
Do I just need to get a new oil seal (90311-38035) or are there other parts I should replace, also.
Do I just need to get a new oil seal (90311-38035) or are there other parts I should replace, also.
That P/N isn't right from what I can see. Looks like that's the differential pinion seal. 90311-50014
Are you buying a whole rebuild kit or just new seals?
I think that's what I need. The oil seal behind (or in front of, depending on vantage point) the flange.
I think everything else with the front diff is good. Just leaking there. Was thinking I could pull the flange and replace just the seal, without having to replace the bearing and other parts.
My bad, misunderstood.
Some will say you can't remove the flange without setting up the whole diff again, because there's a crush sleeve in there. Technically they're right, but in practice you can get away with replacement on the truck. Buy the seal and a new nut, and you can fix that leak.
Some will say you can't remove the flange without setting up the whole diff again, because there's a crush sleeve in there. Technically they're right, but in practice you can get away with replacement on the truck. Buy the seal and a new nut, and you can fix that leak.
It's a staked nut. Mr. T says not to reuse it. Actually he says he pitys the fool that does and he predicts pain for anyone who tries to.
lt1fire
SILVER Star
Check out that flange really good. The first leak I fixed on my 80 was replacing that same oil seal. Then came to find that the flange had actually had a grove worn into it and was letting oil by the new seal also.
jfz80
Cruisin’
- Thread starter
- #4,080
Im the fool that replaced tht seal only and even reused the staked nut 3 yrs ago and leak free. Just check for a groove on the flange as AL said. Mud recomendation is to mark the stake location on pinion threads, count the number of turns to remove nut, replace seal, add nut back same number of turns plus 1/8 revolution and restake. New nut is no brainer if ordering parts but same rule applies.
