TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (12 Viewers)

[mtweller]

All I did today was hear a strange new noise and make that inner gamble with myself that it’ll go away on its own.

Oh, and I sat in the 80, on the phone, for 20 minutes at Toyota today and watched 7 salesmen struggling to not look like they were bird dogging me while each one edged a little closer to me! “Nope, just here for parts. ‘Cause you can do that with these older ones”. Secretly, I was waiting for one of them to compliment my Jeep or Rover.

Oh,oh!!! For tech content, I DID find my 12mm flexhead gearwrench today! But I honestly didn’t even know it was missing.

I got a chuckle. I'm now going to look for a post from you in the "what are you drinking" thread for a correlation.

 

[JohnVee]

I got a chuckle. I'm now going to look for a post from you in the "what are you drinking" thread for a correlation.

Ha! Sorry, man. Sober today. Too many important decisions on the table this evening but I've spent some time thinking about what to drink tomorrow!

 

[mtweller]

Ha! Sorry, man. Sober today. Too many important decisions on the table this evening but I've spent some time thinking about what to drink tomorrow!

Don't like the sound of that first part, but Godspeed friend.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Don't like the sound of that first part, but Godspeed friend.

Yea, being sober can suck

 

[JohnVee]

Rear pads and a good caliper pin clean/lube on the green 1994 80 today. No pics because what’s to see?

So I’ll give you this. Everything is supposed to be gray and brown, right?

 

[S4Cruiser]

Another build thread repost...

Started on the block tonight. First up was getting me a clean and orderly work area setup with all my bearings, pistons, rings, etc.

Then I decided to go ahead and chase the head bolt threads. I had previously purchased a m13x1.75 tap but it didn’t want to start in a way that felt normal...and we know I can **** up some tapping...so instead of doing something stupid and forcing it I made my own thread chaser. Took an spare head bolt, cut 4 ‘slots’ out of the threads with a dremel cutoff wheel and used it. Ended up working great.

Then got the block side main bearings popped in. The rest will have to wait until tomorrow / the weekend...time to grill some steaks for vday dinner.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

What happened that ended up with you putting the block together?

 

[S4Cruiser]

What happened that ended up with you putting the block together?

That's the way the place does it. They machine, you assemble.

Edit - they did install the cam bearings. The rest of the assembly should be fairly straightforward.

 

[mtweller]

That's the way the place does it. They machine, you assemble.

Edit - they did install the cam bearings. The rest of the assembly should be fairly straightforward.

Double check you are getting the right cam plug for the block. I don't fully recall how I got the incorrect one, but it was too "deep" and the cam was bottoming out against the back of the block when I built my 2FE. Caused a good bit of head scratching and lost cycles.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Double check you are getting the right cam plug for the block. I don't fully recall how I got the incorrect one, but it was too "deep" and the cam was bottoming out against the back of the block when I built my 2FE. Caused a good bit of head scratching and lost cycles.

Yep and done! As you pointed, the correct one has a 'short' shoulder AND should not be installed until AFTER the cam is installed and bolted to the timing plate. Bad things can happen if using the 'long' shouldered cam plug!

Edit - also...the F135 engine is an odd bird where it uses different freeze plugs compared to the later F (might have changed at the F.5 version) and 2F blocks. F135 uses a 'dish' style plug on the sides of the block and is 'dented' in the center to seat. $OR sells a period correct bag of plugs thank goodness!

Edit again...F135 also uses main bearing cap shims as the block was cast one piece and the bearing caps were 'sawed' off. The shims are used to replace the saw removed material to ensure the bearings and caps are perfectly (spec based) round. Weird / different for sure.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Fun trivia:

The dished plugs that get punched in the middle are called welch plugs. Later 2Fs still use welch plugs to plug the timing side of the main oil galley.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Fun trivia:

The dished plugs that get punched in the middle are called welch plugs. Later 2Fs still use welch plugs to plug the timing side of the main oil galley.

...and the welch plug hole you reference can be tapped and plug replaced with threaded plug...I think i read that somewhere?

 

[fj40z]

Come on guys this is the wrenching thread. Let keep it to real wrenching. Back on track, I removed the running boards on my 4RUNNER today LOL

 

[S4Cruiser]

Crank gently placed in the block and it rotates freely by hand!

Thrust clearance at the 3rd main checked and is in spec!

Plastigauge cut, placed on each crank main journal, new oem shims placed, main caps torqued down...loosen then remove caps. Check plastiguage...all within spec! Remove plastigauge wax.

Install rear main seal, apply some Permatex right stuff to the rear main bearing cap ends, install rest of main caps, torque again...check crank...rotates nice and smooth. Ready for the next steps tomorrow!

 

[jfz80]

Come on guys this is the wrenching thread. Let keep it to real wrenching. Back on track, I removed the running boards on my 4RUNNER today LOL

View attachment 1905278

Just like a rookie ...

 

[S4Cruiser]

Busy but productive day assembling the F135! I likely would’ve got considerably farther aside from an unexpected item...described below.

Working on getting the pistons installed...

• Verified ring gap and all were in spec but on the higher side per FSM but well within spec per the Hastings literature.
• Rings installed on pistons in their respective grooves. All was well until the last piston (#6) and the 2nd groove ring (compression). It wouldn’t ‘fit’ into the groove. After some head scratching and some micrometer measuring it was in fact too ‘thick’. An hour later sanding on 600 grit paper in a figure 8 it was the correct size and fit like the others.
  • I’m guessing the method above is fine?
• Clocked the rings per FSM.
• Popped each one of the pistons in using a Wiseco ring compressor (being sure front side of piston faced front) - this worked great and was fool proof.
• Installed rod caps and torqued to 50lbs as indicated in FSM.
• Installed stainless cotter pins, needing to slightly tighten a few castle nuts to get the pins in.
• Verified thrust clearance for each rod cap and all were in spec (on the lower range).
• Installed timing gear on end of the crank shaft - had to slightly dress the half moon key but it went on fine, using a 50mm socket and large brass mallet as my SST.
• Checked to make sure crank still rotates smoothly - fairly tight but can be turned over by hand using a strap wrench on the timing gear.
  • GuessIsn’t it should be tight as to not be able to just rotate with my hand on the timing gear - I am no He-Man
• One final check and marked the bolts with a paint pen reminding myself they are GTG.

Then moved on to the oil pump and check it’s specs...fingers crossed I can reuse it as their long NLA and parts NLA too.

• Popped the top off and proceeded to scrape off the old gasket.
• Checked the driven gear to housing clearance - within spec
• Checked drive gear to housing clearance - within check
• Checked gear backlash and was in spec but on the higher side of the range so I flipped the driven over and spec was closer to the mid/lower range
• Made a gasket out of felpro 1/64” material - used tape to create my template then transferred to gasket.
• Checked gear to straightedge (with gasket) clearance and I am slightly over at ~.152mm.
  • I’m hoping the gasket will smash down some and I’ll be fine.
• Screwed it back together and bolted to the block.
• Bolted filter to block.

Questions -

• Oil pump through block bolts look to have been ‘pinned’ from the factory. Should I do the same or use threadlocker?
• The oil pump shaft bolt that needs to be safety wired...anyone have a pic? I swear I took a pic before removing but can’t find it.

Pics!

 

[DeeRex]

Tore down my transfer case. Anyone know if I can reuse these?

Let this be a lesson to anyone in need. Always make sure your gears have oil. Super expensive learning opportunity. My input gear and the two high range are mangled.
But the tear down was actually pretty neat to go through.
Next up: rebuild kit and replacement gears

 

[S4Cruiser]

@DeeRex - that is so awesome...aside from the cost associated to fix. I feel privileged to have been there for the reveal!!

 

[AJR]

Tore down my transfer case. Anyone know if I can reuse these?
View attachment 1907157View attachment 1907158View attachment 1907159

Let this be a lesson to anyone in need. Always make sure your gears have oil. Super expensive learning opportunity. My input gear and the two high range are mangled.
But the tear down was actually pretty neat to go through.
Next up: rebuild kit and replacement gears

You can definitely re-use those... as paper weights

 

[NC LX]

Does anyone know how to change the oil in this thing? Ha. J/k but not really.
View attachment 1904221

Though my own fault, I managed to screw my TCase last month.
Through lots of research and countless texts and calls to @GLTHFJ60 and him coming by a couple of times, we were able to get this beast out from under the truck. Beginning breakdown and full diagnosis this weekend.
Had to cut my exhaust off (custom routed) to get room to back off from the transmission.
While I’m in there, I realized I was leaking diff oil from the front drive shaft so that came off.
I’ll also be doing my Driver side axle rebuild at the same time.
Been a heck of a month, since this is my DD. I’m fortunate the the and I work together (and she actually likes me).
I managed to break off one of the six bolts (the lower of the two that bolt through the transmission from the front). But the other 5 came out mostly unscathed. Had to use head and Kroil on everything else.
Ran the gamut of emotions over the last few weeks. I was ready to tow it somewhere last week. Gave it one more shot and managed to get the rest of the bolts removed, but still couldn’t get it separated. With Johnny’s help, and some massive pry bars, it came lose and were able to get it out from under the truck.
Will post up more after the weekend.
View attachment 1904217

I’ve got a parts case if you need anything from it.