FastCarGuy
SILVER Star
So Ryan, Where is your MAF mounted. Is it after the IC and before the Throttle Body?
Bob
TurboClunker (a.k.a. cheap-ass slaps a turbo on his LX)
- Thread starter Heckraiser
- Start date
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Bob
I am not running a MAF at all. Since I am using a stand alone computer all of my fueling calculations are done via MAP, which is just Manifold Absolute Pressure.
So a MAF (Mass airflow sensor) tries to calculate how much air there is by using a heated wire and seeing how fast it cools down when air flows over it. It uses that data and the air temp sensor to calculate how much fuel to spray.
On a MAP truck the computer already has all of the environmental data, air temp, barometer, etc and then uses the pressure of the air in the manifold to calculate how much fuel to spray.
Most new turbo vehicles will use both. MAF for vacuum/low air flow situations and MAP for boost.
So a MAF (Mass airflow sensor) tries to calculate how much air there is by using a heated wire and seeing how fast it cools down when air flows over it. It uses that data and the air temp sensor to calculate how much fuel to spray.
On a MAP truck the computer already has all of the environmental data, air temp, barometer, etc and then uses the pressure of the air in the manifold to calculate how much fuel to spray.
Most new turbo vehicles will use both. MAF for vacuum/low air flow situations and MAP for boost.
FastCarGuy
SILVER Star
I remember in your thread you mentioned buying a stand alone system that would work with the factory ECM, but allow more custom tuning. Was the MAP sensor part of that?
Yep, almost all standalones will have a pressure port on them to plumb manifold pressure to or will have a pin to wire the MAP sensor to.
FastCarGuy
SILVER Star
Thanks...god to know. At this point I'm looking only for a mild increase the same as Heckraiser, only I'm going air-to-water with my water tank and radiator mounted in the rear where the spare tire used to be. Hopefully can keep cooler air temps.
Got a quick question for you @scottryana. I'm getting rid of my piggyback and am looking at the elite 750. Would you pay the extra $800 for the 2500 for the knock control feature? I have no knock control with the emanage ultimate now but keep going back and forth on this. The 750 is exactly what I need except for the lack of knock input.
The only way you can answer that is going to depend on your setup and how you use the truck.
If you always use good high octane fuel, use the truck in relatively moderate environments, and aren't looking to max out your boost you could stick with the 750.
If you're a belt and suspenders guy, you might be in areas with suspect fuel, want to run high (15+ psi) boost levels, I would spring for the 2500.
If you always use good high octane fuel, use the truck in relatively moderate environments, and aren't looking to max out your boost you could stick with the 750.
If you're a belt and suspenders guy, you might be in areas with suspect fuel, want to run high (15+ psi) boost levels, I would spring for the 2500.
I was afraid you'd say that. I run 16lbs now and no one really knows what octane our gas is. I have meth injection but don't want that to be the only thing saving my engine. Thanks for the advice
- Thread starter
- #330
Welp,
As I somewhat expected, I've developed an oil leak where the return line meets the center housing. After a good run up I-70 a little bit of smoke is visible, so I'm going to tear everything apart and re-tighten it. (oil return, turbo, wastegate, downpipe connections [3] ) Might be a good time to switch to a single-scroll gasket.
The exhaust leak is worse and the muffler and driveshaft have gotten into another battle. Muffler refuses to give up, so I might take it into the exhaust shop this week to have some new hangers made. (Original hangers are rusted away and exhaust is partially suspended from bailing wire
) Wife is super unhappy about more work on the truck, and I'm not psyched either.
I'm back to leaning towards an ugly hood scoop just in the interest of faster/easier.
As I somewhat expected, I've developed an oil leak where the return line meets the center housing. After a good run up I-70 a little bit of smoke is visible, so I'm going to tear everything apart and re-tighten it. (oil return, turbo, wastegate, downpipe connections [3] ) Might be a good time to switch to a single-scroll gasket.
The exhaust leak is worse and the muffler and driveshaft have gotten into another battle. Muffler refuses to give up, so I might take it into the exhaust shop this week to have some new hangers made. (Original hangers are rusted away and exhaust is partially suspended from bailing wire
) Wife is super unhappy about more work on the truck, and I'm not psyched either.I'm back to leaning towards an ugly hood scoop just in the interest of faster/easier.
alia176
SILVER Star
Thanks for the education, Ryan. I've learned a lot from this thread but the "belt & suspenders" reference, what does it mean? Boring guy ora big belly who can't see his toes? I ain't from around here.....
Haha it means someone who is extra safe. If a belt or suspenders could do the job of holding up your pants than both must be even better!
alia176
SILVER Star
Ahhh, got it. I'm really slow at times......my GF makes fun of me <SNIFF>......
It is ok. 99% of people on mud are belt and suspenders people. Only crowd that will pull the engine for preventative maintenance. lol
- Thread starter
- #335
Tore everything down this evening to address the leaking oil return line and discovered a host of problems.
-Turbo nuts had backed themselves off a good 1/16"
-Evidence of minor exhaust leak at waste gate dump
-Evidence of minor exhaust leak at v-band
-Hole burned in silicone coupler that was in contact with the turbo blanket (somewhat expected and planned on re-routing)
-turbo blanket itself is burned through and unraveling already (cheapest blanket money can buy lol)
-heat damage to wiring harness nearest to downpipe
-recirculation pipe on intake broken lose
Frankly I'm shocked it has been running as well as it has. I feel like I dodged a bullet. If it weren't for my wife's hypersensitive nose, I probably would have had a catastrophic failure. I feel like half of thsee problems stem from the muffler contacting the driveshaft. Imagine banging on your muffler with a hammer 300 times a minute... Might shake something loose. The rest of the issues are due to me running it hard for too long without finishing up the heat management stuff I had planned on doing all along.
-Turbo nuts had backed themselves off a good 1/16"
-Evidence of minor exhaust leak at waste gate dump
-Evidence of minor exhaust leak at v-band
-Hole burned in silicone coupler that was in contact with the turbo blanket (somewhat expected and planned on re-routing)
-turbo blanket itself is burned through and unraveling already (cheapest blanket money can buy lol)
-heat damage to wiring harness nearest to downpipe
-recirculation pipe on intake broken lose
Frankly I'm shocked it has been running as well as it has. I feel like I dodged a bullet. If it weren't for my wife's hypersensitive nose, I probably would have had a catastrophic failure. I feel like half of thsee problems stem from the muffler contacting the driveshaft. Imagine banging on your muffler with a hammer 300 times a minute... Might shake something loose. The rest of the issues are due to me running it hard for too long without finishing up the heat management stuff I had planned on doing all along.
- Thread starter
- #336
For your viewing pleasure
Busted coupler
Shredded blanket (still ok to use?)
BOV recirculation pipe came right of in my hands (was epoxy welded on)
Very close to melting important wires
Looks like some exhaust sneaking out here
"Turbo kit" sitting on the bench with all the tools required to install. It all came apart in about an hour and a half
Busted coupler
Shredded blanket (still ok to use?)
BOV recirculation pipe came right of in my hands (was epoxy welded on)
Very close to melting important wires
Looks like some exhaust sneaking out here
"Turbo kit" sitting on the bench with all the tools required to install. It all came apart in about an hour and a half
Last edited:
Damn dude, yeah the exhaust moving could easily translate to leaking v-band connections. Put a straight edge on them when you unbolt them just to make sure they weren't bent.
The turbo nuts you knew about, you just didn't want to have to take things apart again...
Even the cheapest turbo blanket should not have any issue with how little you are pushing this turbo! Hopefully you can get a replacement.
Yeah I double wrap everything near the downpipe. Check your A/C line as well.
The turbo nuts you knew about, you just didn't want to have to take things apart again...
Even the cheapest turbo blanket should not have any issue with how little you are pushing this turbo! Hopefully you can get a replacement.
Yeah I double wrap everything near the downpipe. Check your A/C line as well.
Tore everything down this evening to address the leaking oil return line and discovered a host of problems.
-Turbo nuts had backed themselves off a good 1/16"
-Evidence of minor exhaust leak at waste gate dump
-Evidence of minor exhaust leak at v-band
-Hole burned in silicone coupler that was in contact with the turbo blanket (somewhat expected and planned on re-routing)
-turbo blanket itself is burned through and unraveling already (cheapest blanket money can buy lol)
-heat damage to wiring harness nearest to downpipe
-recirculation pipe on intake broken lose
Frankly I'm shocked it has been running as well as it has. I feel like I dodged a bullet. If it weren't for my wife's hypersensitive nose, I probably would have had a catastrophic failure. I feel like half of thsee problems stem from the muffler contacting the driveshaft. Imagine banging on your muffler with a hammer 300 times a minute... Might shake something loose. The rest of the issues are due to me running it hard for too long without finishing up the heat management stuff I had planned on doing all along.
- Thread starter
- #338
Oh yeah, I pulled apart my MAF wiring trying to get the valve cover ventilation hose off
Were those wire splices on your MAF sensor? I think you need new crimpers. lol
It is amazing it still ran!
It is amazing it still ran!
- Thread starter
- #340
Yes, I'm very thankful to be working through this in the garage and not on the side of the road. These are all still very fixable problems and mostly due to my own niglect 
The good news is my exhaust hangers are fixed and my rusted through resonator is at the scrap yard. Despite the beating is taken, my muffler is still in serviceable shape, so at least that part of the exhaust is taken care of.
The good news is my exhaust hangers are fixed and my rusted through resonator is at the scrap yard. Despite the beating is taken, my muffler is still in serviceable shape, so at least that part of the exhaust is taken care of.
