Good to know - thanks man. I'm contemplating side steps/sliders for the trailer as well as a spare tire holder and kayak holder. I'd like somewhere to step up, potentially strap jerry cans/water tanks/etc too. Got a tube bender as well?
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Good to know - thanks man. I'm contemplating side steps/sliders for the trailer as well as a spare tire holder and kayak holder. I'd like somewhere to step up, potentially strap jerry cans/water tanks/etc too. Got a tube bender as well?
slceso
... pronounced "Jason"
Just got this setup from a co-worker for $300. Now I just have to figure out how to use it
fourtrax
SILVER Star
good deal. I have had my handler 120 for over 25 years now.
rule #1 protection
rule #2 good ventilation
rule #3 NEVER NEVER weld anything cleaned with carb/brake cleaner. (when Tetrachloroethylene is exposed with excessive heat and argon (used in MIG and TIG welding) it also produces Hydrogen Chloride and phosgene).
rules #3 always check our welding area 20-30 minutes after you finished to make sure there are no smoldering fires for the sparks or droppings.
rule #4 grinding debris seems to leave the disc in a liquid state, it melts into and pits anything it hits. windows, vinyl siding, garage doors, paint, always be aware of the debris field, i have had to replaced at least one windshield in resent years. (i thought it was far enough away But, i was wrong).
rule #1 protection
rule #2 good ventilation
rule #3 NEVER NEVER weld anything cleaned with carb/brake cleaner. (when Tetrachloroethylene is exposed with excessive heat and argon (used in MIG and TIG welding) it also produces Hydrogen Chloride and phosgene).
rules #3 always check our welding area 20-30 minutes after you finished to make sure there are no smoldering fires for the sparks or droppings.
rule #4 grinding debris seems to leave the disc in a liquid state, it melts into and pits anything it hits. windows, vinyl siding, garage doors, paint, always be aware of the debris field, i have had to replaced at least one windshield in resent years. (i thought it was far enough away But, i was wrong).
jfz80
Cruisin’
Great deal Jason! And im digging the crafstman tool cart as a rolling stand. All the anscellaries right at reach.
The grinder just makes it all sweeter
The grinder just makes it all sweeter
slceso
... pronounced "Jason"
and this for another $75. beats the hell out of the jigsaw and metal blade I was using a few weeks ago to cut that unistrut!
Eric or anyone - - I used brake cleaner to prep the surface of my sliders for welding on to my frame of my Tundra - - not an issue if I used primer and paint over it, right?
Question 2: I can weld right over the top of paint? If I have someone do it, they will prep the surface without concerns to #1 above or whatever I have done since, correct?
fourtrax
SILVER Star
its really when Tetrachloroethylene is in a liquid state that it can create the gas when exposed to high heat and argon, the exposure ceiling is 0.2 PPM in a 15 minute period, 3 PPM will start to show signs of irritation. 50 PPM can be fatal, there is no cure that i am aware of.
if the area is dry and free of the chemical, i would say your risk is reduced. but, use caution as there might be trace elements in the metal, if it is porous, rusted, or has a crack or even a seam. as long as the area is completely dry and free of the solvent risk should be low.
while there are weldable primers, most paint does not contribute to a good weld and surface prop will be needed.
if the area is dry and free of the chemical, i would say your risk is reduced. but, use caution as there might be trace elements in the metal, if it is porous, rusted, or has a crack or even a seam. as long as the area is completely dry and free of the solvent risk should be low.
while there are weldable primers, most paint does not contribute to a good weld and surface prop will be needed.
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
Not all brake cleaner has the bad stuff in it. Most newer cans are non chlorinated. Best to not use it regardless.
@weejub - wipe the sliders down with acetone and you should be fine. I clean almost everything I weld with acetone as the final cleaner.
I also wear a 3m mask with the 2197 particulate filters (round red ones) and it fits under my mask. I hate smelling welding fumes.
@weejub - wipe the sliders down with acetone and you should be fine. I clean almost everything I weld with acetone as the final cleaner.
I also wear a 3m mask with the 2197 particulate filters (round red ones) and it fits under my mask. I hate smelling welding fumes.
fourtrax
SILVER Star
acetone is handy, just keep in mind it is a highly flammable liquid.
Acetone has a high vapor pressure which means the liquid evaporates quickly. This vapor forms an explosive mixture when it combines with air.
Acetone has a high vapor pressure which means the liquid evaporates quickly. This vapor forms an explosive mixture when it combines with air.
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
Agreed. I usually put out my cig before handling the stuff...or at least make sure my ash isn't like this:
This is about the sweetest thing there is when it comes to welding prep. Tons of choices for abrasives to use depending on the job.
Makes me miss wrenching with my dad. I was probably 13 before I learned there were other ways to light your torch.
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I'd love to have air set up - I need to do that next for the garage. I may have to get brand recommendations when I do that.
jfz80
Cruisin’
- Thread starter
- #596
That's a heck of a chop saw!! Jealous man, I've been eyeballing that myself.
- Thread starter
- #597
How 'bout a short tool making story.
Sometimes there's a SST for a job, but you just don't have time to go get one, or didn't know you needed it till you're in there. Take this for example, the preload screw in the top of the steering box sector shaft:
That screw freely rotates, but it's held in with that hex nut that's staked in place. Tried punching it out to no avail.
Measured the diameter of the hex with a set of calipers then picked out a sacrifical hex socket of the appropriate size. They're hardened, so you can't drill it easily. To anneal, all you have to do is heat it to as hot as you can get with a MAPP gas torch and let it cool to room temperature. I did that three times then punched a hole through. To restore hardness, I got the end as hot as I could and quenched it in some used motor oil I had:
Worked like a charm. Thought the metallurgy part was neat. Use the anneal/harden technique to modify any kind of hardened steel tool you need.
Sometimes there's a SST for a job, but you just don't have time to go get one, or didn't know you needed it till you're in there. Take this for example, the preload screw in the top of the steering box sector shaft:
That screw freely rotates, but it's held in with that hex nut that's staked in place. Tried punching it out to no avail.
Measured the diameter of the hex with a set of calipers then picked out a sacrifical hex socket of the appropriate size. They're hardened, so you can't drill it easily. To anneal, all you have to do is heat it to as hot as you can get with a MAPP gas torch and let it cool to room temperature. I did that three times then punched a hole through. To restore hardness, I got the end as hot as I could and quenched it in some used motor oil I had:
Worked like a charm. Thought the metallurgy part was neat. Use the anneal/harden technique to modify any kind of hardened steel tool you need.
Did you get all of those ball bearings reloaded?
- Thread starter
- #599
Yup. Figured out a different method of loading them in while threading the power piston onto the shaft. It's a miracle that I didn't lose any of them, lol.
slceso
... pronounced "Jason"
Haha my calves got burned up at OBX, I'm very susceptible. I'm basically a ginger with slightly brownish hair gone gray.@slceso make sure you add some suntan lotion to one of those drawers........ or invest in the full length gloves
Edited to remove onsc member addresses oops
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