TTT -- The Tool Thread (1 Viewer)

[NCFJ]

A cheater bar on a breaker bar with slow even pressure increase will do better, but yes the impact can work

 

[Rice]

A cheater bar on a breaker bar with slow even pressure increase will do better, but yes the impact can work

Agree .... and maybe a little bit of heat as a LAST resort, especially effective on the aluminum TC since aluminum has 2x the expansion rate of steel.

 

[sleepycruiser]

I tried the cheater bar and couldn't get them off with that either. I will keep spraying them with PB blaster for the next few days and see if that will help.

 

[NCFJ]

I tried the cheater bar and couldn't get them off with that either. I will keep spraying them with PB blaster for the next few days and see if that will help.

You have to grit your teeth and raise your left eyebrow at the same time, just sayin

 

[sleepycruiser]

You have to grit your teeth and raise your left eyebrow at the same time, just sayin

Haha...it is almost like you were there.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I would absolutely not recommend using an impact on the drain or fill plugs. The heads are too thin, making it very easy to round off.

Use heat early and often. Mapp gas or propane plumbers torch right on the plug for maybe 5 minutes, then firm, consistent pressure with a breaker bar.

 

[jfz80]

I can't get my diff and transfer case bolts off to change my fluids. Would a cordless or corded impact wrench work on these??? I sprayed them with PB blaster and smacked them with a hammer to try to loosen them up.

Go ahead and check fill plugs first as well. No sense in draining them if you cannot refill yet.

 

[Rice]

I would absolutely not recommend using an impact on the drain or fill plugs. The heads are too thin, making it very easy to round off.

Use heat early and often. Mapp gas or propane plumbers torch right on the plug for maybe 5 minutes, then firm, consistent pressure with a breaker bar.

Just say'n, if you go the heat route the plugs and surrounding area must be clean of oil/grease build up. Have extinguisher close at hand. Don't put a flame to it while parked in your garage .... do it in the driveway.

Focus the heat on the surrounding area, not the plug. They are in direct thermal contact but it still takes time for heat to go to the plug.

 

[lt1fire]

did you try with a breaker bar or as a last resort heat. Would never do an impact on that part?


EDIT: for some reason my browser didn't let me know there was another page...... Guess the breaker bar and heat advice was given about 18 times before I posted DOH!!!

 

[stevezero]

I can't get my diff and transfer case bolts off to change my fluids. Would a cordless or corded impact wrench work on these??? I sprayed them with PB blaster and smacked them with a hammer to try to loosen them up.

PB Blaster, propane torch. Spray pb blaster, let soak for a few mins. Apply some heat from the propane torch, not a ton. use a 6 point socket if you have one. Let the heat do the work. try a little more heat each time.

My newest 97 had blue loctite on the fill bolts, so i had to use a ton of heat,any my 1/2 inch impact gun....good times, good times.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Just say'n, if you go the heat route the plugs and surrounding area must be clean of oil/grease build up. Have extinguisher close at hand. Don't put a flame to it while parked in your garage .... do it in the driveway.

Focus the heat on the surrounding area, not the plug. They are in direct thermal contact but it still takes time for heat to go to the plug.

I've had good luck heating the plug itself. I understand what you're getting at, expanding the hole away from the plug, but I've had plenty of good luck heating the plug itself. Propane/mapp gas does not put out enough heat to effectively heat the housing, especially this time of year. Heating the plug is the same as welding a nut to the plug if it's stripped, which is probably the most effective way of removing a rusted-in plug IMHO.

 

[Rice]

Heating the plug works because of thermal contact to the case. Getting heat to the case is all that matters aside from serving to burn off any thread locking material.

 

[jfz80]

Ive had luck with a grinder and a impact screwdriver when it gets stubborn.... or in my case when the collar is conformed to the hex head

Ive had luck with a cold chisel and hammer too once the perimeter is opened up

 

[sleepycruiser]

Sounds like everyone here is super experienced....I might need one of you to come show me.

 

[NCFJ]

Right after I white wash your fence

 

[sleepycruiser]

Sanda floor

 

[jfz80]

I love hourly work !

 

[jamesurq]

Ive had luck with a grinder and a impact screwdriver when it gets stubborn...

Manual impact screwdriver, just smack it with a hammer. Forgot about that tool! It was the only thing I could find that would remove the lower unit oil fill on my old outboard.

 

[JohnVee]

And buy hex head plugs to replace the old ones. Can get them through Toyota or various vendors here. Get the crush washers, too. Of course, I'm sure someone will post up why they're a terrible idea!

 

[lt1fire]

And buy hex head plugs to replace the old ones. Can get them through Toyota or various vendors here. Get the crush washers, too. Of course, I'm sure someone will post up why they're a terrible idea!

They are a terrible Idea.... why crush washers whey you can get solid ones to re-use