Transmission hose replacement using non-OEM parts

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I'm trying to get the new Gates hose over that barb/elbow behind the headlight. The short run that goes to the cooler. 5 hours ago I instructed the dog to grab her leash cuz this is gonna be quick and easy today. Cue Gilligan's Island theme here...

I cannot for the life of me get this hose to seat fully on the barbs. I tried heating up the hose and still no go. Is it safe to use silicone spray for a little sliding assistance?
 
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Did you try removing that elbow and pushing the hose on while it is off the truck (see my pics and instructions in Post #22)? It is so much easier that way - you and your dog will be happier.
 
cartercd said:
Did you try removing that elbow and pushing the hose on while it is off the truck (see my pics and instructions in Post #22)? It is so much easier that way - you and your dog will be happier.
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Shoulda done just that. I have the headlight assembly and grille out so the elbows are RIGHT THERE! The first of the lines was the tranny to the radiator which was the only OEM section available. Slid right on, compression clamp snugged, 2 minutes. This Gates hose wont give a micron and refuses to slide on. I tried giving up profanity for lent but sounds like mardi gras in the garage today.
 
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I recently forgot this little tip for a second myself and struggled trying to get the PHH onto the pipe nipple working on my knees one arm up toward the engine via the wheel well. I then slapped my forehead and put the thinnest possible swipe of Dow Corning 55 (O-ring grease; lithium/silicone) on the ID of the hose and slippp, the hose went on easy peazy. FWIW
 
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Kernal said:
I recently forgot this little tip for second myself and struggled trying to get the PHH onto the pipe nipple working on my knees one arm up toward the engine via the wheel well. I then put the thinnest possible swipe of Dow Corning 55 (O-ring grease; lithium/silicone) on the ID of the hose and slippp, the hose went on easy peazy. FWIW
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I have used Sil-Glyde and lube (as in CVS lube, yes, that lube) and both work well. I like using lube because it's water soluble and very light.
 
THAT lube unfortunately not stocked here due to lack of demand, or more accurately lack of supply to satisfy demand. But did have a tube of Super Lube O-ring lube and that helped get me slid up to that upper lip on the nipple. Thank you all. :censor:
 
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Sil-glyde for the win every time. Never attach a hose without it.
 
I always use a smear of 3M silicone paste on rubber hoses. Had no problem getting Gates transmission hoses on. Harbor Freight's hose pliers can help a lot, too.

3mSiliconePaste.jpg

HarborFreightHosePliers.jpg
 
That happened to me once, lower radiator hose many years ago, between it being a long fat hose (more flexible) and the newly painted lower radiator pipe, the hose popped right off once the engine got up to operating temp. I've used only the slightest amount of a lube like Dow Corning 55, an invisible smear, to get the hose started or, probably better, a smear of coolant. For a short stiff hose like the PHH and the other short heater hoses they're not likely to pop off if clamped correctly IMHO. The type of clamp used also makes a difference IME.
 
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bicycleagent003 said:
Does anyone have the OD of the Gates 3/8" ID oil cooler hose that everyone seems to be using?

I'm trying to figure out the right hose clamp to use prior to pulling everything apart. I'm thinking a 5/8" constant tension hose clamp (sized for 15.2 - 18..2mm) will work. This is the one I'm thinking of, which I've used before and is a very good quality, robust clamp:
Amazon product ASIN B0040CYVOK
Please share your thoughts. Thanks.
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Did you ever use these clamps? If so, what did you found out?
 
brettk said:
Did you ever use these clamps? If so, what did you found out?
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I have not purchased the hose yet to check the sizing, but once I do I'll post up here. That's on my list of things to do this summer, but with no leaks right now I'm not in a hurry to tackle the job.
 
I just used the Gates hose and the CTC16BAND12 clamps. Good snug tight fit on the hose sections using the Gates but wouldn't go over the one section of OEM hose.

20220409_074346.jpg
 
cartercd said:
I just completed this job along with a transmission fluid exchange. Apparently whoever designed the pesky heater hose designed the transmission cooler lines. It is a bear to slip the hoses over the factory fittings. It took me all-day and left my arms scratched and bruised, but the job is done. This thread was very helpful -thanks. Just to be clear, there are a total of 7 lines that need to be replaced as shown below.
View attachment 2759942

Hoses 1 and 2 require the removal of the starter (I left the electrical wires connected and set the starter on top of the frame). The hose clamps above the starter are a pleasure to remove. I would not do this job without a flexible hose clamp pliers locking tool. I also found a pair of hose grip pliers was useful to twist the hose while trying to push it on (even after heating with a heat gun). The hose remover is helpful, but I had to cut all my old hoses off.

View attachment 2759943

A few other notes:
-Gates 3/8” hose is slightly larger in inside diameter than the Belmetric 9.5mm hose (and much cheaper). I used 12 feet.
- The hose with the Unicoil will need to be cut longer than the OEM hose as the bending radius is larger.
-The OEM hose clamps will be slightly too large. One could squeeze them down slightly prior to install. The assortment of hose clamps at Napa and my garage were slightly too small. The OEM metal fittings will expand the outside diameter of the hose more than what is typically seen in 3/8” hose applications. I think the Belmetric CTC16BAND12 constant tension hose clamp with max opening of 18mm would be the best option. I guessed wrong and ordered a smaller size which didn’t work.
-I did not remove the radiator or headlight. The battery box definitely has to come out.
-Every hose is going to drip transmission fluid all over you.

There is a 90-degree elbow assembly that passes from underneath the battery box to the space behind the turn signal. A single 10mm nut that is accessed from the turn signal opening allows this elbow to be removed. Once removed you can pre-assemble hosed 4,5,6 and 7.

View attachment 2759944
View attachment 2759945

Enjoy. :beer:
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For hoses 1 and 2 did you use the unicoil for the bends ? or is it not needed ?

Thanks for all this info !!!
 
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toyofan said:
For hoses 1 and 2 did you use the helicoil for the bends ? or is it not needed ?

Thanks for all this info !!!
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You only need the unicoil for one of the hoses coming off the radiator.
 
Drift Monkey said:
Ouch, $50 hose. Might be worth it though, considering Amazon doesn't have the #12 3/8" Unicoil.
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what about instead of a unicoil just getting a 90 degree section of 3/4 heater hose or similar? I would think it'd be stiff enough to maintain the bend, but maybe not. could also 3D print a little curve that holds the hose.
 
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