Can the soft lines from the transmission to the hard lines be replaced without major disassembly? The soft lines appear to connect on the upper portion of the tranny close to the body. I'm not sure my big hands can get up there.
Transmission hose replacement using non-OEM parts
- Thread starter overlandtlc
- Start date
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I just completed this job along with a transmission fluid exchange. Apparently whoever designed the pesky heater hose designed the transmission cooler lines. It is a bear to slip the hoses over the factory fittings. It took me all-day and left my arms scratched and bruised, but the job is done. This thread was very helpful -thanks. Just to be clear, there are a total of 7 lines that need to be replaced as shown below.
Hoses 1 and 2 require the removal of the starter (I left the electrical wires connected and set the starter on top of the frame). The hose clamps above the starter are a pleasure to remove. I would not do this job without a flexible hose clamp pliers locking tool. I also found a pair of hose grip pliers was useful to twist the hose while trying to push it on (even after heating with a heat gun). The hose remover is helpful, but I had to cut all my old hoses off.
A few other notes:
-Gates 3/8” hose is slightly larger in inside diameter than the Belmetric 9.5mm hose (and much cheaper). I used 12 feet.
- The hose with the Unicoil will need to be cut longer than the OEM hose as the bending radius is larger.
-The OEM hose clamps will be slightly too large. One could squeeze them down slightly prior to install. The assortment of hose clamps at Napa and my garage were slightly too small. The OEM metal fittings will expand the outside diameter of the hose more than what is typically seen in 3/8” hose applications. I think the Belmetric CTC16BAND12 constant tension hose clamp with max opening of 18mm would be the best option. I guessed wrong and ordered a smaller size which didn’t work.
-I did not remove the radiator or headlight. The battery box definitely has to come out.
-Every hose is going to drip transmission fluid all over you.
There is a 90-degree elbow assembly that passes from underneath the battery box to the space behind the turn signal. A single 10mm nut that is accessed from the turn signal opening allows this elbow to be removed. Once removed you can pre-assemble hosed 4,5,6 and 7.
Enjoy.
Hoses 1 and 2 require the removal of the starter (I left the electrical wires connected and set the starter on top of the frame). The hose clamps above the starter are a pleasure to remove. I would not do this job without a flexible hose clamp pliers locking tool. I also found a pair of hose grip pliers was useful to twist the hose while trying to push it on (even after heating with a heat gun). The hose remover is helpful, but I had to cut all my old hoses off.
A few other notes:
-Gates 3/8” hose is slightly larger in inside diameter than the Belmetric 9.5mm hose (and much cheaper). I used 12 feet.
- The hose with the Unicoil will need to be cut longer than the OEM hose as the bending radius is larger.
-The OEM hose clamps will be slightly too large. One could squeeze them down slightly prior to install. The assortment of hose clamps at Napa and my garage were slightly too small. The OEM metal fittings will expand the outside diameter of the hose more than what is typically seen in 3/8” hose applications. I think the Belmetric CTC16BAND12 constant tension hose clamp with max opening of 18mm would be the best option. I guessed wrong and ordered a smaller size which didn’t work.
-I did not remove the radiator or headlight. The battery box definitely has to come out.
-Every hose is going to drip transmission fluid all over you.
There is a 90-degree elbow assembly that passes from underneath the battery box to the space behind the turn signal. A single 10mm nut that is accessed from the turn signal opening allows this elbow to be removed. Once removed you can pre-assemble hosed 4,5,6 and 7.
Enjoy.
@cartercd - Great write up. Thanks for posting it.
What size clamp did you order from Belmetric? I'll order the ones you suggested but wasn't sure if that was one or two sizes up. I may try to get 2 different sizes up to cover my bases.
I ordered Belmetric CTC15BAND12. They open to 17mm and are recommended for 14.7mm - 16.5mm range. They were too small.
CTC16BAND12 opens to 18mm and are recommended for 15.7mm - 17.5mm range. I think these would be best, but not positive.
CTC16BAND12 opens to 18mm and are recommended for 15.7mm - 17.5mm range. I think these would be best, but not positive.
Much appreciated detail and photos. Remove the starter? Ugh...I just completed this job along with a transmission fluid exchange. Apparently whoever designed the pesky heater hose designed the transmission cooler lines. It is a bear to slip the hoses over the factory fittings. It took me all-day and left my arms scratched and bruised, but the job is done. This thread was very helpful -thanks. Just to be clear, there are a total of 7 lines that need to be replaced as shown below.
View attachment 2759942
Hoses 1 and 2 require the removal of the starter (I left the electrical wires connected and set the starter on top of the frame). The hose clamps above the starter are a pleasure to remove. I would not do this job without a flexible hose clamp pliers locking tool. I also found a pair of hose grip pliers was useful to twist the hose while trying to push it on (even after heating with a heat gun). The hose remover is helpful, but I had to cut all my old hoses off.
View attachment 2759943
A few other notes:
-Gates 3/8” hose is slightly larger in inside diameter than the Belmetric 9.5mm hose (and much cheaper). I used 12 feet.
- The hose with the Unicoil will need to be cut longer than the OEM hose as the bending radius is larger.
-The OEM hose clamps will be slightly too large. One could squeeze them down slightly prior to install. The assortment of hose clamps at Napa and my garage were slightly too small. The OEM metal fittings will expand the outside diameter of the hose more than what is typically seen in 3/8” hose applications. I think the Belmetric CTC16BAND12 constant tension hose clamp with max opening of 18mm would be the best option. I guessed wrong and ordered a smaller size which didn’t work.
-I did not remove the radiator or headlight. The battery box definitely has to come out.
-Every hose is going to drip transmission fluid all over you.
There is a 90-degree elbow assembly that passes from underneath the battery box to the space behind the turn signal. A single 10mm nut that is accessed from the turn signal opening allows this elbow to be removed. Once removed you can pre-assemble hosed 4,5,6 and 7.
View attachment 2759944
View attachment 2759945
Enjoy.
Thanks though. Very helpful.
Dirt Ferguson
SILVER Star
So I’ve got some Eaton H10106 trannie oil cooler hose that I purchased from my local NAPA. Pressure rated for 350 psi but I just looked up the temp rating and it’s only rated for 212F.
Is there anything else on my rig I should be saving this hose for?
Is there anything else on my rig I should be saving this hose for?
The Eaton Weatherhead hose is hydraulic hose, but not tranny oil hose. You can likely use it on your power steering pump low pressure hose, but you certainly don't need that much. I would take it back to Napa and get the correct Gates hose.
Dirt Ferguson
SILVER Star
That’s too bad because I specifically asked for AT oil cooler hose, saw the psi rating, and felt I was good when I was in the store.
However, not overly surprising because that shop services a lot of ag equipment. Thanks, hose will be returned. This is one receipt I’m glad I kept.
Does anyone have the OD of the Gates 3/8" ID oil cooler hose that everyone seems to be using?
I'm trying to figure out the right hose clamp to use prior to pulling everything apart. I'm thinking a 5/8" constant tension hose clamp (sized for 15.2 - 18..2mm) will work. This is the one I'm thinking of, which I've used before and is a very good quality, robust clamp:
Amazon product ASIN B0040CYVOK
Please share your thoughts. Thanks.
I'm trying to figure out the right hose clamp to use prior to pulling everything apart. I'm thinking a 5/8" constant tension hose clamp (sized for 15.2 - 18..2mm) will work. This is the one I'm thinking of, which I've used before and is a very good quality, robust clamp:
Amazon product ASIN B0040CYVOK
Please share your thoughts. Thanks.
Great question. I have the new hoses on and the OEM clamps are definitely too loose. Havent put the radiator back in, so would love to get new clamps as well.
PS - I can take the OD measurement, but not until tonight
PS - I can take the OD measurement, but not until tonight
That's a very helpful data point, thank you.
Can you confirm that the 16.7mm OD when stretched measurement is with the Gates 3/8" ID transmission cooler hose?
Thanks so much, that's very helpful.
Prepping and about to wade into this mess. Can anyone confirm which sections of above hose will need unicoil on the bends?
Thank you.
I bought two but haven't replaced them yet. See this one hose that I think is the primary issue. The one that ends near the lower radiator hose connector.
Only the one on the passenger side. It runs near the belts. The smallest one I could find was meant for 1/2" ID heater hose so the 3/8" ID fits like a hot dog down a hallway. Two zip ties secure the ends.
Thank you guys! Looks like that's #3 on the above diagram. Guess while everything drained I may as well re-do the pan gasket and while I'm in there might as well do the solenoids too. Sigh...
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That appears to be the coolant hose going to the rear heater.
Thank you. I saw red seepage and assumed tranny fluid. Just can't see where the transmission line runs. Back to frozen concrete to look for 1 and 2 in @cartercd's diagram.
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