Transmission hose replacement using non-OEM parts
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Thanks for the informative writeup! Helped a lot. That 90° hard line under the battery box- couldn't get it out w/ all the hoses attached. No idea how you oragami'd that out! But, at least made life easier so it's a great tip.I just completed this job along with a transmission fluid exchange. Apparently whoever designed the pesky heater hose designed the transmission cooler lines. It is a bear to slip the hoses over the factory fittings. It took me all-day and left my arms scratched and bruised, but the job is done. This thread was very helpful -thanks. Just to be clear, there are a total of 7 lines that need to be replaced as shown below.
View attachment 2759942
Hoses 1 and 2 require the removal of the starter (I left the electrical wires connected and set the starter on top of the frame). The hose clamps above the starter are a pleasure to remove. I would not do this job without a flexible hose clamp pliers locking tool. I also found a pair of hose grip pliers was useful to twist the hose while trying to push it on (even after heating with a heat gun). The hose remover is helpful, but I had to cut all my old hoses off.
View attachment 2759943
A few other notes:
-Gates 3/8” hose is slightly larger in inside diameter than the Belmetric 9.5mm hose (and much cheaper). I used 12 feet.
- The hose with the Unicoil will need to be cut longer than the OEM hose as the bending radius is larger.
-The OEM hose clamps will be slightly too large. One could squeeze them down slightly prior to install. The assortment of hose clamps at Napa and my garage were slightly too small. The OEM metal fittings will expand the outside diameter of the hose more than what is typically seen in 3/8” hose applications. I think the Belmetric CTC16BAND12 constant tension hose clamp with max opening of 18mm would be the best option. I guessed wrong and ordered a smaller size which didn’t work.
-I did not remove the radiator or headlight. The battery box definitely has to come out.
-Every hose is going to drip transmission fluid all over you.
There is a 90-degree elbow assembly that passes from underneath the battery box to the space behind the turn signal. A single 10mm nut that is accessed from the turn signal opening allows this elbow to be removed. Once removed you can pre-assemble hosed 4,5,6 and 7.
View attachment 2759944
View attachment 2759945
Enjoy.
Also, the CTC16BAND12 clamps work perfect w/ Gates 3/8 400psi atf line. Those are great clamps!
The Gates hose goes on the Toyota hardlines very well w/ a bit of shin-etsu
So I tackled this today and it only took about 2 hours and minimal mess.
Like others have said I purchased the Gates Transmission Oil Line, 3/8", and the CTC16BAND12. I ordered the hose off amazon and the CTC's directly from Bellmetric. Bellmetric got them to me in 3 days.
I removed the grill, and driver headlight and turn signal followed by the battery tray. With all of those removed it's pretty easy to access everything and took maybe 5 minutes to remove.
To minimize the mess I pulled the top line connected to the cooler and let drain, then the lower making sure to keep the other ends connected to the 90degree hardline. Went under the truck and pulled the lower line off the radiator and the transmission hardline. Once drained, I pulled all 4 hoses and hardlines together.
*In hindsight you could completely remove these hardlines and just go straight from the cooler to the radiator and trans.
Put everything back on in reverse order then disconnected the last hose completely that runs under the belts and installed the new one.
The only thing i found difficult was simply forcing the 3/8 line. I recommend some Toyota Rubber grease you can order online or pick up direct from the dealer.
I was expecting a massive mess, to be dripped on, etc but outside some dips on the frame it was clean.
Like others have said I purchased the Gates Transmission Oil Line, 3/8", and the CTC16BAND12. I ordered the hose off amazon and the CTC's directly from Bellmetric. Bellmetric got them to me in 3 days.
I removed the grill, and driver headlight and turn signal followed by the battery tray. With all of those removed it's pretty easy to access everything and took maybe 5 minutes to remove.
To minimize the mess I pulled the top line connected to the cooler and let drain, then the lower making sure to keep the other ends connected to the 90degree hardline. Went under the truck and pulled the lower line off the radiator and the transmission hardline. Once drained, I pulled all 4 hoses and hardlines together.
*In hindsight you could completely remove these hardlines and just go straight from the cooler to the radiator and trans.
Put everything back on in reverse order then disconnected the last hose completely that runs under the belts and installed the new one.
The only thing i found difficult was simply forcing the 3/8 line. I recommend some Toyota Rubber grease you can order online or pick up direct from the dealer.
I was expecting a massive mess, to be dripped on, etc but outside some dips on the frame it was clean.
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@JoeCova did you replace the lines mentioned earlier in the thread that run by the starter motor too? Those sounds tricky?
i did this job recently (only the front lines), and it was indeed very hard to push the Gates 3/8in hose (I did put some grease). I had the one Toyota OEM that is still available and night and day difference. Toyota line is softer and sized correctly and goes in without issue
I looked and could not find a 10MM hose. Is that not available ?
I looked and could not find a 10MM hose. Is that not available ?
Dirt Ferguson
SILVER Star
Thanks for the clearly worded explanation of how you tackled this job.
If you are referring to the breather lines then no, only the transmission cooler lines which in my case (not sure on all 80s) was a hardline from the transmission all the way up to the those few hoses in front of the engine.
Hoses 1 and 2 from post #22 don't exist for me so may be something changed for 1995+ with the different trans (A442F vs A343)
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Ah ha - I see - thanks for the information. I have a 95 that I just acquired and was just planning out this service. So on your truck, your lower hard lines on the left side of the engine run all the way to the transmission?
Correct, mine is a 1994.
I had some leakage dripping from the front left side right where the PS and AT lines gather next to the bottom of the radiator. I noticed the highest line was wet. The was the AT cooler line running from the transmission to the cooler in front of the radiator (not at the bottom of the radiator.). I hope that was my leak. I replaced both lines making that bend at the corner of the radiator to under the battery with the 3/8 Gates hose from Napa sleeving it with the old protector and spiral wrap and traditional hose clamps. That 3/8 is a biyatch to slide over the nipple even on a 75 degree day. I almost gave up but discovered you use your heat gun on low to warm the ends up for about 30 seconds and they slide right on.
Well, I discovered the leak is still there. the bottom hose is wet and dripping on to the frame rail. Im really sad replacing those hoses didnt fix the problem. I really can't see where the leak is coming from. I think tonight I will add some dye to the transmission and clean up the oil so I can track it down better. I had already added dye to the power steering system and ruled that fluid out as the problem. Any suggestions or ideas would help.
I replaced all 5 hoses in the ATF system on my 1996 US Spec TLC over the weekend. I can confirm that those are the only soft lines on my rig, as @JoeCova mentioned above.
I did not remove the DS headlight, perhaps that was a mistake. Taking out the lower splash guard (missing from some rigs over time, it sounds like), battery and battery box, and the DS turn signal indicator lens, is mandatory. It's tough work getting that little metal 4 hard metal lines corner piece out from under the DS headlight. That's why I'm wishing I had just taken the headlight out for better access.
While you have that metal 4 hard lines piece out, hit it with the wire wheel and spray it with a rust inhibitor. That part is NLA, and our friends in the rust belt have had trouble finding a replacement part when theirs is rusted through. Below are a few pics of the job.
Others have said that getting the replacement hose on is a beast, not so for me. I used this Derale hose from Amazon and it went on just fine, and no leaks now after two test drives and heat cycles. Amazon.com: Derale 13017 Transmission/Engine Oil Hose , Black : Automotive - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XONNTY?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_5
I reused the original hose protector sleeve (like a hose over the hose) and bought some new hose wrap and wrapped that over the reused OEM hose sleeve. I also used that Continental hose bender sleeve (looks like a Slinky toy) on the hose that comes out of the PS bottom of the radiator, and I think it looks janky. I'm going to bite the bullet and buy that hose (32941-60110) from Partsouq. It's $43 delivered. Yeah, that's a lot. I'm paying for peace of mind. I don't mind things looking janky sometimes, but that hose is within a couple inches of the harmonic balancer, and I don't want that hose making contact when I'm out on a solo wheeling trip in the desert. Just my .02 cents. YMMV.
For clamps with the Derale hose that I used, I used these constant tension clamps from Amazon. I've used this brand throughout my truck for 10+ years, and I've never had one leak even one time. I've now replaced every single hose and clamp on the truck (all in the coolant system, and in the ATF system now, too). For this 3/8" OD hose for the ATF, the size is 5/8"-23/32".
Here's a photo looking through the opening for the DS turn signal lens, and I left a 10mm socket on the nut that holds that 4 prong hard line corner piece in place so you could see how to get that off. That nut is the only thing that holds the 4 prong hard line piece in. Getting it out is a bit of a bear, perhaps easier if I had removed the headlight.
I did not remove the DS headlight, perhaps that was a mistake. Taking out the lower splash guard (missing from some rigs over time, it sounds like), battery and battery box, and the DS turn signal indicator lens, is mandatory. It's tough work getting that little metal 4 hard metal lines corner piece out from under the DS headlight. That's why I'm wishing I had just taken the headlight out for better access.
While you have that metal 4 hard lines piece out, hit it with the wire wheel and spray it with a rust inhibitor. That part is NLA, and our friends in the rust belt have had trouble finding a replacement part when theirs is rusted through. Below are a few pics of the job.
Others have said that getting the replacement hose on is a beast, not so for me. I used this Derale hose from Amazon and it went on just fine, and no leaks now after two test drives and heat cycles. Amazon.com: Derale 13017 Transmission/Engine Oil Hose , Black : Automotive - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XONNTY?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_5
I reused the original hose protector sleeve (like a hose over the hose) and bought some new hose wrap and wrapped that over the reused OEM hose sleeve. I also used that Continental hose bender sleeve (looks like a Slinky toy) on the hose that comes out of the PS bottom of the radiator, and I think it looks janky. I'm going to bite the bullet and buy that hose (32941-60110) from Partsouq. It's $43 delivered. Yeah, that's a lot. I'm paying for peace of mind. I don't mind things looking janky sometimes, but that hose is within a couple inches of the harmonic balancer, and I don't want that hose making contact when I'm out on a solo wheeling trip in the desert. Just my .02 cents. YMMV.
For clamps with the Derale hose that I used, I used these constant tension clamps from Amazon. I've used this brand throughout my truck for 10+ years, and I've never had one leak even one time. I've now replaced every single hose and clamp on the truck (all in the coolant system, and in the ATF system now, too). For this 3/8" OD hose for the ATF, the size is 5/8"-23/32".
Amazon.com: 10 Constant Tension Band Hose Clamps 5/8" - 23/32" : Automotive
Buy 10 Constant Tension Band Hose Clamps 5/8" - 23/32": Clamps & Sleeving - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
Here's a photo looking through the opening for the DS turn signal lens, and I left a 10mm socket on the nut that holds that 4 prong hard line corner piece in place so you could see how to get that off. That nut is the only thing that holds the 4 prong hard line piece in. Getting it out is a bit of a bear, perhaps easier if I had removed the headlight.
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Good to know, I added that hose to my latest Amayama order. What clamps did you use with the Derale hose?
Hey there, I just edited my post above to add the info on the clamps. They are readily available from Amazon, and I used size 5/8"-23/32". Good luck. It's not a terrible job, just a bit tedious.
I just looked on Amazon and they list that they only have one pack of the clamps like what you used left in stock, Another source for clamps like the one's you used is from a company called Belmetric,
Below is a link to their web site
Constant Tension Metric Clamps | BelMetric
belmetric.com
Thanks for posting that up. Their kit with 120 clamps ends up being only $1/clamp, which is half what I paid. The tough thing is knowing what size to order ahead of time. That kit they sell looks good, though I'm not sure there are many uses for the small clamps. Good option. Thanks for sharing.I just looked on Amazon and they list that they only have one pack of the clamps like what you used left in stock, Another source for clamps like the one's you used is from a company called Belmetric,
Below is a link to their web site
Constant Tension Metric Clamps | BelMetric
This thread was really helpful, thanks to all who contributed. In case it benefits someone else, when I went to order the hose protector it was out of stock but I had a few feet of 5/8" Gates green stripe heater hose left over from some coolant system work and with a little bit of lube (soap/303/lithium grease) it just barely slides over the Gates transmission hose for a nice layer of protection. Here's a few pics of how it turned out...
Well done. And, yes, the slinky hose bender goes on the lower PS piece of hose as it exits the radiator. I had put mine on the other end (heading toward the trans) of the same hose. That was silly. You did it right. Good job. And your rad looks nice and shiny. Looks like you're doing some good PM there.
For those members who have been putting this job off because it's a pain in the ass to do, i have a suggestion for you, If you haven't done this job yet, i suggest you check the condition of all of your transmission cooler hoses BEFORE you're next off road adventurer,
My truck is 31 years old with all original transmission cooler hoses, and due to my age, and back pain I'd been putting this job off, Well today i climbed under my truck to check those hoses, all of them, and i do mean all of them, were very soft, and WAY PASS their use by date,
Due to my back issues it took me about 5 hours to do this job, I used gates 3/8 inch transmission cooler hose, P/N3289-0018, The clamps i used were Belmetric P/N CTC16BAND12, To install this hose i used a heat gun to warm the ends of each hose, and used Aeroequip hose assembly lube on all the metal hose nipples, along with trans fluid inside each hose,
Using the Aeroequip hose lube and the heat gun made installing the hose easier, But without the use of the heat gun, even with the use of the Aeroequip lube it was next to impossible to to push that hose all the way on those metal nipples,
Below are links to all the items i used on this project
www.gates.com
belmetric.com
My truck is 31 years old with all original transmission cooler hoses, and due to my age, and back pain I'd been putting this job off, Well today i climbed under my truck to check those hoses, all of them, and i do mean all of them, were very soft, and WAY PASS their use by date,
Due to my back issues it took me about 5 hours to do this job, I used gates 3/8 inch transmission cooler hose, P/N3289-0018, The clamps i used were Belmetric P/N CTC16BAND12, To install this hose i used a heat gun to warm the ends of each hose, and used Aeroequip hose assembly lube on all the metal hose nipples, along with trans fluid inside each hose,
Using the Aeroequip hose lube and the heat gun made installing the hose easier, But without the use of the heat gun, even with the use of the Aeroequip lube it was next to impossible to to push that hose all the way on those metal nipples,
Below are links to all the items i used on this project
Transmission Oil Cooler Hose | Gates Corporation
Whether your vehicle is industrial or recreational, you rely on your engine to operate consistently and efficiently. Don’t take chances when it comes to your oil systems - trust Gates to deliver safe, reliable engine hoses and components, guaranteed to help your trucks, vintage model cars, and...
www.gates.com
Clamp Full Tab Constant Tension 13mm - 50mm, 12mm Band
Bel-Metric sells metric hardware & specialty automotive supplies worldwide. Visit our website to purchase metric fasteners, nuts, bolts, screws, washers & more.
belmetric.com
Amazon.com: Aeroquip FBM3553 Use For Either Hand/Machine Assembly : Automotive
Amazon.com: Aeroquip FBM3553 Use For Either Hand/Machine Assembly : Automotive
www.amazon.com