Toyota 2L 3L 5L Turbo Install in Cabover Truck (3 Viewers)

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Yes, I can't wait for the Kinugawa package to show up.

BTW, I just called Innovate Motorsports inquiring about their MTX-L PLUS: Advanced Digital Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge Kit, 8 ft. Sensor Cable - https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/mtx-l-plus-digital-wideband-air-fuel-ratio-gauge-kit-8-ft.html, it turns out this AFR sensor/gauge kit #39180 can also be used for diesel application. Its webpage description doesn't mention it, but getting the usb-to-serial adapter cable #37330 (USB to Serial Adapter Cable - https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/usb-to-serial-adapter.html) and changing the gas to diesel setting via this software (SUPPORT – Innovate Motorsports - https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/) will allow the gauge to read and display up from 22.4:1 to 99.9:1. :cool:

Great to know, so that is the same guage I'm using with the 99:1 scale, it just needs programmed.

I knew they wouldn't just stop selling the best diesel tuning gauge around.
 
Here it is, no extra duties or brokage charges as advertised, along with all the little bits & pieces to plumb the coolant & oil from the block to the turbo (minus the oil pan return hose & bung into the pan as they don't sell those). Next step, attempt to see if it physically fit inside engine bay using stock manifold, but modifying the stock short section downpipe to attach the TD04-13T.
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Well, I was hoping I’d never have to make this post, but I always knew it was a possibility. Since my truck was the first Hiace pickup/Dyna that I'm aware of to get a turbo installed and others have shown interest in doing the same, I wanted to share an update—for better or worse.

The Issue
A little while ago, I started noticing occasional smoke at startup after the truck had been sitting for a while. The smoke lasted about 20 seconds and was light-colored, but I couldn’t tell if it was white or blue—so I wasn’t sure if it was oil or coolant. My initial thoughts:
  • Moisture in the fuel system
  • A cracked head leaking coolant into the cylinder when parked
  • Bad valve stem seals letting oil seep into the chamber
However, I wasn’t seeing any significant coolant loss or an increase in oil consumption, and once the truck was running, everything seemed fine.

Diagnostics & What I Found
Since the symptoms were inconsistent, I ran some tests:

Compression Test:
  • Cylinder 1: 480 psi
  • Cylinder 2: 450 psi
  • Cylinder 3: 440 psi
  • Cylinder 4: 280 psi 🫠
  • Wet test on cylinder 4: 300 psi
Cooling System Pressure Test:
Started at 15 psi, dropped to ~12.5 psi after an hour.
Not sure what’s normal for these old trucks, but no sign of a massive coolant leak that would cause a compression drop like that.

Leak Down Test on Cylinder 4:
25% leakage at 100 psi, all coming through the crankcase.

Was hoping it was just a cracked head, but everything leads me to believe there’s localized damage in cylinder 4 piston or rings. My best guess is that the low compression at cold start is allowing unburnt diesel through the exhaust until the engine warms up enough to burn it properly. I was pretty prepared to do a head swap at some point, due to the reputation of these engines, unfortunately it looks like I won't be able to simply swap the head and will need to pull the engine.

Hard to say what happened, but the tuck has never overheated, and I’ve been careful with EGTs.
  • Coolant temps: ~185°F during normal driving, low 190s on the freeway, never over low 200s.
  • EGTs: Kept under 900°F post-turbo. Momentarily kissed 1000°F a couple times.
  • 14 psi Boost
I haven’t pulled the head yet, so I can’t say for sure what failed or if the turbo install directly or indirectly caused it. That said, I’m not confident in the work the shop did—I’ve already had to redo a bunch of things, and was planning on refining the rest of the installation this summer (finally have a daily driver so some downtime on the truck isn't a big deal).

Where Do I Go From Here?
Going back to an N/A 2L is out of the question—the turbo setup made the truck damn near perfect. So I see two real options:
  1. Rebuild the 2L and do a more professional turbo install. I've learned a lot since I had the turbo installed and know I could do a much better job now.
  2. Swap in a 1KZ
Right now, I’m heavily leaning toward the 1KZ. A factory turbo, larger displacement, and stronger internals would give me more confidence long-term. While they have their own issues, they’re well-regarded engines, and I’d be running it at stock power levels—not pushing it beyond its design. I feel like the 2L will always be slightly too small, working too hard to push the 5000 pound truck up steep hills, and just not as bullet proof as I’d like.

Would the 1KZ Fit?
That’s the big unknown. The fact that some Hiace vans came with the 1KZ gives me hope. My truck has the R351F transmission, which those vans also used, so with the right bell housing, the gearbox should bolt up. From what I’ve found, swapping a 1KZ into a Hilux (from a 2L/3L/5L) typically requires:
  • Moving the engine mounts back ~40mm
  • Modifying the mechanical pump to use with the 1KZ
  • Swapping the bell housing, clutch, fork, slave cylinder, etc.
If the same applies to my truck, it’s definitely a challenge, but doable. That is, if the engine will even fit in the bay. The fact that the turbo is mounted low makes me think it might work. There's plenty of room behind my current engine, as there is a removable hatch that could easily be modified. I'm not sure how much taller the 1kz is, though, and that's where I'm most concerned about space.

Next Steps
I’ve got some time to think about it while I figure out storage for the camper, so I can fit the truck in my garage. Pulling the engine should be fun—planning to take it out through the cab on the passenger side. Should be… interesting. 😅

Would love to hear people’s thoughts—both on what might have gone wrong and on the 1KZ swap. Appreciate any insight or advice!
 
The bigger Dyna light trucks have been using the B engine platform for decades. I'm not sure about your budget, but I wouldn't waste any more money on frail IDI turbos, get a 14B or 15B-F/-FT. They are rock solid engines for heavier vehicles.
 
Turbo pistons will likely help you. 14psi on a high compression diesel without alfin pistons would possibly mean stretched ring-lands. Strip down will tell you for sure.

And post turbo EGT is useless.
 
You'd be better off getting a 13-14-15B-T/-FT in it, 1KZ whilst better still has the same design issues that any turbo IDI engine has.

On the EGT, 1000F post could be well too hot depending on the circumstances. Post-Turbo EGT is a waste of time.
 
You'd be better off getting a 13-14-15B-T/-FT in it, 1KZ whilst better still has the same design issues that any turbo IDI engine has.

On the EGT, 1000F post could be well too hot depending on the circumstances. Post-Turbo EGT is a waste of time.

Sure but those engines are going to be hard to find, expensive to buy and more expensive to fit.
 
I really appreciate the recommendations, @Eurasiaoverland and @AussieHJCruza. I hadn’t even considered a B-series engine, but after looking into them, they definitely seem like a great option. The downside is they’re hard to find, expensive, and there’s not a lot of readily available info on swaps. My biggest concern, though, is that I’m already worried about squeezing a 1KZ into the bay, and I’m guessing a 15B would be significantly larger. I also have no idea if it would be compatible with my current gearbox. Long-term, it would probably be the better route, but realistically, I think it’s beyond my current capabilities.

The 1KZ stands out to me because it’s a relatively straightforward swap (in theory). I know it will bolt up to my existing gearbox, they’re widely available, reasonably priced, can keep it mechanical, and it should be a big upgrade over my NA 2L. I know a turbo IDI setup will never be perfect, but this truck was never going to be a powerhouse anyway. I don’t need it to tow anything; I just want to be able to go faster than 30 mph up mountain passes. I was completely happy with the power from my turbo 2L. If I could get that same power reliably with a 1KZ, I’d be more than satisfied. I'm hoping that's the case.

I’ve also considered the 1KD, which I believe is the same footprint and would obviously be the better option with direct injection. The EFI and electronics worry me though. That’s the main reason I’m leaning toward the mechanical 1KZ—it keeps things simpler and within my skill set.
 
I really appreciate the recommendations, @Eurasiaoverland and @AussieHJCruza. I hadn’t even considered a B-series engine, but after looking into them, they definitely seem like a great option. The downside is they’re hard to find, expensive, and there’s not a lot of readily available info on swaps. My biggest concern, though, is that I’m already worried about squeezing a 1KZ into the bay, and I’m guessing a 15B would be significantly larger. I also have no idea if it would be compatible with my current gearbox. Long-term, it would probably be the better route, but realistically, I think it’s beyond my current capabilities.

The 1KZ stands out to me because it’s a relatively straightforward swap (in theory). I know it will bolt up to my existing gearbox, they’re widely available, reasonably priced, can keep it mechanical, and it should be a big upgrade over my NA 2L. I know a turbo IDI setup will never be perfect, but this truck was never going to be a powerhouse anyway. I don’t need it to tow anything; I just want to be able to go faster than 30 mph up mountain passes. I was completely happy with the power from my turbo 2L. If I could get that same power reliably with a 1KZ, I’d be more than satisfied. I'm hoping that's the case.

I’ve also considered the 1KD, which I believe is the same footprint and would obviously be the better option with direct injection. The EFI and electronics worry me though. That’s the main reason I’m leaning toward the mechanical 1KZ—it keeps things simpler and within my skill set.
I'm so sorry for your loss. In hindsight, what would you have done differently? (I.e. egt pre-turbo, lower max boost @ 10psi, cold air intake, etc?)

I imagine once you open up your 2L, you will have a much better understanding of what went wrong & will know your next action plan (fix or engine swap).

I finally just finished gathering all my piping parts & about to drill the turbo return hole into the oil pan to truly mark the beginning of my 5L turbo journey.

Nervewrecking for sure, especially knowingly & being aware of the risks associated with pressurizing a 22:1 compression ratio engine.

How many km did the engine have pre-turbo, and now?

If you have any other tips/suggestions, I'm all ears. If you ever decide to move on from your 2L down the road, feel free to pm me if you want to part out some of your turbo parts (I.e. exhaust manifold). I'm currently opting to start with keeping the stock oem exhaust manifold & making my own piping to connect it to the turbo. If that plan ever fails, I can always swap to a modified manifold like yours. That's my plan for now.

Good luck to us all.
 
What a shame :(

Just for technical interest.. were the injectors rebuilt before the turbo went on to this 2L?
 
I'm so sorry for your loss. In hindsight, what would you have done differently? (I.e. egt pre-turbo, lower max boost @ 10psi, cold air intake, etc?)

I imagine once you open up your 2L, you will have a much better understanding of what went wrong & will know your next action plan (fix or engine swap).

I finally just finished gathering all my piping parts & about to drill the turbo return hole into the oil pan to truly mark the beginning of my 5L turbo journey.

Nervewrecking for sure, especially knowingly & being aware of the risks associated with pressurizing a 22:1 compression ratio engine.

How many km did the engine have pre-turbo, and now?

If you have any other tips/suggestions, I'm all ears. If you ever decide to move on from your 2L down the road, feel free to pm me if you want to part out some of your turbo parts (I.e. exhaust manifold). I'm currently opting to start with keeping the stock oem exhaust manifold & making my own piping to connect it to the turbo. If that plan ever fails, I can always swap to a modified manifold like yours. That's my plan for now.

Good luck to us all.

Hard to say right now since I don’t know exactly what went wrong. Definitely would have a better air intake situation. 10 psi would be safer than 14, but at the same time plenty of people have no issues at 14.

I’m interested to see your setup with the stock manifold, you should post pics once you make some progress.

I’m pretty committed to the 1kz swap at this point, dare I say, a bit excited. I got a pretty good deal on an engine which should be getting delivered this week. It came from a hiace and has a factory water to air intercooler. No idea how effective they are, but really cool nonetheless and I want to give it a try:
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Biggest concerns are clearance in the front, the top, and of course those damn shifter linkages. If I Can make the 1KZ fit, I'll definitely part out any bits you want.

What a shame :(

Just for technical interest.. were the injectors rebuilt before the turbo went on to this 2L?

I didn't rebuild injectors prior as the truck only had 20k miles. That's another thing I'd add if doing it again.
 
Hey @utleymu - If you can, get some pictures of the engine bay after the old engine is removed. Shots of the engine mounts, measurements for toal space and measurements between mounts would all be useful. I think you are in Washington State, I might be able to drive to you and 3d scan the engine bay.

I've been thinking about an eventual VW TDI swap since there are already adapters for the transmission available. The Ford Ecoboost 2.3L is also an interesting prospect, although I think 200+ hp might be kind of scary in these trucks.
 
Hey @utleymu - If you can, get some pictures of the engine bay after the old engine is removed. Shots of the engine mounts, measurements for toal space and measurements between mounts would all be useful. I think you are in Washington State, I might be able to drive to you and 3d scan the engine bay.

I've been thinking about an eventual VW TDI swap since there are already adapters for the transmission available. The Ford Ecoboost 2.3L is also an interesting prospect, although I think 200+ hp might be kind of scary in these trucks.
I just started a new thread for the 1KZ swap. I took rough measurements for the mounts, I'll try to post those and some pictures.
 
Do you have more photos of how they adjusted the shift linkages? im 3/4 of the way done with my turbo install last just needing to move these linkages and build the exhaust.
 
Do you have more photos of how they adjusted the shift linkages? im 3/4 of the way done with my turbo install last just needing to move these linkages and build the exhaust.
I don't have any other photos and unfortunately I've already removed all of the shifter linkages. In short, the bracket under the turbo had to be moved down a bit. Then the linkage that connects back up to the main shaft was bent I believe, and some steel bar was used to extend it, basically allowing the linkage to warp around the turbo.

You have any photos of your install? Would love to see/hear about how you did things.
 
I don't have any other photos and unfortunately I've already removed all of the shifter linkages. In short, the bracket under the turbo had to be moved down a bit. Then the linkage that connects back up to the main shaft was bent I believe, and some steel bar was used to extend it, basically allowing the linkage to warp around the turbo.

You have any photos of your install? Would love to see/hear about how you did things.
I have some photos. Once I figure out how to do these linkages I will post a writeup here. This one is has A/C so routing an intercooler is out of the question for now at least, maybe I'll have a shower idea on how to do it. It seems to really like the turbo. I went with a GT25 Turbo and the engine really seams to like it. We will see how it does under load.
 
It took a lot longer than I was hoping, but the turbo is finally installed and operational. I still need to find a good solution for the air intake (possibly a snorkel), install boost controller, install boost compensator, and tune the fuel pump, but it currently runs great. Couple of notes on the install:
  • Nether of the manifolds I purchased fit out of the box. This is when I realized it was out of my skill range and took it to a shop. They were able to modify the HD auto manifold to fit the tight space.
  • The shop was able to fit a front mounted air to air intercooler which is awesome.
  • The shift linkage needed to be modified for everything to fit
  • With the modified shift linkage they were able to install a 3" exhaust, even though it's overkill

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Do you remember around how much you paid for the intercooler setup at the shop and which shop installed it? I have a 3L Hiace that I added a GT25 to and am running into some heat issues. My EGT's are more than manageble but at highway speeds in the 90-100F degree range my temp guage quickly climbs to 215F+. I have tried looking into a barrel style water to air intercooler that would go over the valve cover but they are all too wide. @utleymu
 

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