Toyota 2L 3L 5L Turbo Install in Cabover Truck (2 Viewers)

[utleymu]

Hey there,

I'm creating this post to seek feedback and document my process of turbocharging the 2L-II engine. If this isn't the appropriate place, please let me know, and I'll relocate it.

Some info on my truck​

I've owned my 1994 Hiace Pickup truck for about a year now. I built a camper for it, added some little modifications for comfort, and I absolutely love this truck for its 6ft bed, double cab, 4WD hi/lo, good fuel economy, no-frills toughness. While there's much to love, the truck's major drawback is its lack of power. It doesn't bother me when cruising the flats, but it becomes a significant issue on hills, and since I often drive into the mountains I frequently have to shift down to 4th or even 3rd gear. This is with 5.13 gears on 30-inch tires. To make this my perfect truck, I plan to turbocharge the engine.

• 1994 Toyota LH85 decommissioned fire truck, imported from Japan
• 2L-II NA 2.4l diesel engine
• 19,000 miles, purchased at 12,000
• Significant maintenance performed by Vanlife Northwest when purchased (replaced all hoses/fluids, timing, etc.)
• No over-heating issues or any other problems so far; never seen engine temperature exceed 190F in winter and 200F in summer, even after sustained hills
• Truck originally weighed about 4200 lbs after removing firefighting equipment. I've aimed to keep everything light, but it now sits around 5000 lbs.

Research so far​

I knew nothing about diesel engines, turbos, etc. before buying this truck. I still know very little, but I've read almost every related post on these forums, and they have been incredibly helpful. I'm aware of the issues with these engines and will take every precaution outlined. Here are a few threads that I found particularly helpful:

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Current Plan​

My current plan is to acquire the hotside 2L/3L turbo kit from HD Automotive in Australia. It appears to be a high-quality kit with a Garrett turbo. Other kits come with air ducting, which is probably useless for me due to the cabover design of my truck. I also plan to install a new 2.5" exhaust system.

I'm still undecided on the tuning specifics at this stage. Keeping temps down will be my biggest driving factor.

Current Obstacles and Unknowns​

While there is some space in the engine compartment, it's a bit unorthodox due to the cabover design. I'm considering routing the crossover pipe out of the engine compartment, in front of the radiator, then back in on the other side. Since I'm going this route, I believe it makes sense to install an intercooler. I'm leaning towards an air-to-air intercooler mounted in front of or below the radiator. I'm uncertain if placing an intercooler in front of the radiator will affect radiator cooling or if routing the crossover this way will introduce significant lag in the turbo system. I'd appreciate any opinions or suggestions on this, and I'll include some images of the space available below.

All of the turbo manifolds I've been able to find appear to be high mount versions. I'm not sure if the turbo can be rotated or not, but I might end up needing a t2 to t2 adapter to reposition the turbo a bit, something like this: Amazon product ASIN B0CP26V56R
I'm also unsure if modifying my fuel pump to have a boost compensator is necessary or worth it. I've read that the 2L-T boost compensator can be swapped onto my regular 2L fuel pump, and I believe this is the part: Boost Compensator for Denso Toyota Landcruiser 2L-T pump 096490-0090 | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/253566623964

HD Automotive also modifies these fuel pumps, but it is really expensive, and I would have to send my unit to Australia. I likely wouldn't be utilizing the larger 12mm pump, so I don't think this would be worth it: 3L 5L Boost Comp Injector Pump 12MM - HD Automotive - https://hdautomotive.com.au/product/3l-5l-boost-comp-injector-pump-12mm/

Another issue is that the current air intake is on the opposite side of the turbo. With limited space available, I think it would be best to relocate this to the other side and avoid routing another duct. The most ideal solution would probably be a snorkel that goes out and up the RHD side, but to start, I think I would just add a pod intake filter wherever I have space, similar to what RyanMiller did in his build.

Some pictures​

Thanks to everyone who has laid the groundwork before me and anyone who helps going forward!

 

[mudgudgeon]

Absolutely plan on adding a boost compensator. It gives you much more ability to tune and manage EGTs.
Without it, you'll likely have a dirty, hot tune

Intercooling comes into its own for boost over 14psi. If you're boost levels are below 14psi, and room is an issue, forget the intercooler.
Intercooler will increase lag, as will any additional piping to route intake to/from intercooler.
Lots of landcruisers running FMIC without lag being too much of a problem.

No experience with 2L engine, but typically boost is your friend in managing EGTs.
Low boost turbos on a diesel often run high EGTs. Skip the 5-10psi boost, they aren't usually optimising fuel burnand go for around 14-15psi so you can actually benefit from extra fueling

 

[utleymu]

Thanks for your 2 cents mudgudgeon. I've ordered a boost compensator and will plan on running 14-15 psi boost. Seems the Aussie shops are on holiday break until the 14th, so still waiting to order the turbo kit.

 

[4Ruster]

Hey looking forward to following your build thread!

I 2nd adding a boost compensator top. Makes the drive so much better with fuel control. It's actually quite easy to swap the top of the injector pumps.

As for the intake ducting, it will be a tight fit, my ducting sticks up around 10cm above the valve cover.

FIRST THING YOU NEED TO BUY IS A PYROMETER. High EGT's are a good way to melt a piston ( I know first hand unfortunately )

I can answer as many 2L questions as you can send out, just in September I bolted a TD04 to my 2L and it's definitely an improvement, I'm still fiddling with it and asking my own questions though. Knowledge is shared here.

 

[utleymu]

Thanks for the feedback 4Ruster, its encouraging to hear that you've turbo'd a 2L. Did you drill and tap a hole in your sump for the oil return, or was there an existing return you were able to use?

The EGT gauge has already been ordered, I'll definitely be keeping a close eye on those temps.

The air piping is going to be tough, especially with my limited skills. There's not much room on the top and even going out of the front of the engine compartment looks tight. Do you think 2" piping would be too small? The smaller I can use the easier it should be.

 

[GreenPump]

I will be also undertaking a turbo project soon, with my 3L, which is mentioned in detail on other threads.

I had my pump rebuilt by Dave at Back40 in Montana. He has a guy who rebuilds and tests them. It was $1000 with parts and labor. They also deleted my ACSD. If you want, he can install your boost compensator. It took a couple weeks so you'll have to plan ahead, but I'm certain it will be faster and more economical than shipping to HD Auto.

I opted to go without a boost comp. Remains to be seen if that's a decision I will regret. I'm at very high altitude. Today I was driving up Teton pass to ski at Jackson, aprox 8500ft elevation. Lots of black smoke. Turbo should lean it out a lot.

I'm running a pump from another 3L truck at the moment, which is old and tired like my original was. When the turbo goes on, the rebuilt pump will too.

 

[utleymu]

I will be also undertaking a turbo project soon, with my 3L, which is mentioned in detail on other threads.

I had my pump rebuilt by Dave at Back40 in Montana. He has a guy who rebuilds and tests them. It was $1000 with parts and labor. They also deleted my ACSD. If you want, he can install your boost compensator. It took a couple weeks so you'll have to plan ahead, but I'm certain it will be faster and more economical than shipping to HD Auto.

I opted to go without a boost comp. Remains to be seen if that's a decision I will regret. I'm at very high altitude. Today I was driving up Teton pass to ski at Jackson, aprox 8500ft elevation. Lots of black smoke. Turbo should lean it out a lot.

I'm running a pump from another 3L truck at the moment, which is old and tired like my original was. When the turbo goes on, the rebuilt pump will too.

Not sure how I missed your thread during my research, but that was an awesome read. Great job on your rebuild, and thanks for taking the time to post pictures. This will be my first real project on the truck, but i'm hoping one day I'll have the skills for a job like that.

Good to know about the pump rebuilder, too. Definitely a better option than shipping to Australia. I think for phase one I'm going to try to get the turbo working with the stock pump, then try to add boost compensator after everything is working.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

That is a really cool truck. In some sense it'll never be more reliable and long lasting than it is now without a turbo. But I know how gutless these motors are without boost. Looks like it's missing EGR which is a HUGE plus, and is also mechanically injected; again a good thing. It's possible it came with the newer revision cylinder head which is improved over the ones known to crack.

I think some of these trucks came with a 5LE engine which would probably have been better for you in normally aspirated form. I've been eyeing up the heavier duty ones with the 15BF motor as my next project; but they're hard to find in 4wd. Might just settle for 2wd.

Anyhow, sounds like you're on the right track with your plans. Good luck!

 

[utleymu]

That is a really cool truck. In some sense it'll never be more reliable and long lasting than it is now without a turbo. But I know how gutless these motors are without boost. Looks like it's missing EGR which is a HUGE plus, and is also mechanically injected; again a good thing. It's possible it came with the newer revision cylinder head which is improved over the ones known to crack.

I think some of these trucks came with a 5LE engine which would probably have been better for you in normally aspirated form. I've been eyeing up the heavier duty ones with the 15BF motor as my next project; but they're hard to find in 4wd. Might just settle for 2wd.

Anyhow, sounds like you're on the right track with your plans. Good luck!

Thanks! I was able to glean a lot of insight from your thread. I’m hoping to use some of that info to keep it as reliable as I can post-turbo. I know it’s never going to be a race car, but would be ecstatic if I could hold 50 mph up the steep passes instead of 30 currently.

There’s definitely a lot of variations in the models and engines. I think you guys in Canada get access to the imports before we do in the states, so you have even more options. I wanted the smaller sized truck, so I was limited to either the 2L or the 3L. When they switched to the 3L they also updated the truck’s design, and I just don’t think it looks as good haha.

I’ve seen that some of the larger trucks actually have a tilting cab for easy access to the engine which is really cool.

 

[Norlk]

Looking forward to more updates

 

[Adam R]

Cool project/vehicle. I started playing with my 1984 Toyota 2L engine back in 1995 when they were exceptionally rare. It seems that due to they 25 year rule, many more are now finding their way to the US. I searched, but all of my old posts to this forum are now gone. Anyway, I'm running a TD04 13T turbo and can get low 20's for boost and EGT's of 1200 F which is a safe temp for these engines. When it comes to modding a diesel, it's important to know you boost and EGT's to keep things in the safe range. My pump was sent off to Australia because back then as I could not find anybody in the US to work on them. It seems that problem is now rectified due to increased popularity stateside. I do not run a compensated pump. Mine is a little dirty on the low end, but cleans up nicely under boost. I am intercooled and a general rule of thumb is that for every 10 degrees you cool your intake air, you get a 1% increase in hp. I'm running an air-to-air IC and the temp drop is easily 150-200 degrees across the IC. For your project, due to space and routing considerations, I'd look at running an air-to-water IC. Slightly more complicated with a separate cooling circuit and water pump, but figuring out a way to install an IC is essential. Don't worry about "turbo lag" in the IC lines, it's a non-issue and you'll never notice it anyway. My own truck has pretty long lines since the IC is mounted in a custom bumper and I've never noticed any discernable lag myself. My truck is about 4,000 lbs and can easily get out of it's own way, but I'm gear limited to about 75 mph. Your are heavier, but a good turbo/IC system will wake things up and give you respectable performance.

Here is how I'd approach your project.

1. Drill and tap the manifold (or the adapter you mentioned) for an EGT gauge port.
2. Install a boost gauge after the IC and near the intake manifold.
3. Install a TD04-13T or 19T turbo. I've had good luck with Kinagawa turbo components.
4. Install an air-to-water intercooler, the biggest one you can effectively package into the available space.
5. Make all connections as smoot as possible and keep IC lines around 2-2.5 inches basically match the size of your intake manifold.

Good luck with this project. Looks like a fun one.

Adam R.

 

[utleymu]

Cool project/vehicle. I started playing with my 1984 Toyota 2L engine back in 1995 when they were exceptionally rare. It seems that due to they 25 year rule, many more are now finding their way to the US. I searched, but all of my old posts to this forum are now gone. Anyway, I'm running a TD04 13T turbo and can get low 20's for boost and EGT's of 1200 F which is a safe temp for these engines. When it comes to modding a diesel, it's important to know you boost and EGT's to keep things in the safe range. My pump was sent off to Australia because back then as I could not find anybody in the US to work on them. It seems that problem is now rectified due to increased popularity stateside. I do not run a compensated pump. Mine is a little dirty on the low end, but cleans up nicely under boost. I am intercooled and a general rule of thumb is that for every 10 degrees you cool your intake air, you get a 1% increase in hp. I'm running an air-to-air IC and the temp drop is easily 150-200 degrees across the IC. For your project, due to space and routing considerations, I'd look at running an air-to-water IC. Slightly more complicated with a separate cooling circuit and water pump, but figuring out a way to install an IC is essential. Don't worry about "turbo lag" in the IC lines, it's a non-issue and you'll never notice it anyway. My own truck has pretty long lines since the IC is mounted in a custom bumper and I've never noticed any discernable lag myself. My truck is about 4,000 lbs and can easily get out of it's own way, but I'm gear limited to about 75 mph. Your are heavier, but a good turbo/IC system will wake things up and give you respectable performance.

Here is how I'd approach your project.

1. Drill and tap the manifold (or the adapter you mentioned) for an EGT gauge port.
2. Install a boost gauge after the IC and near the intake manifold.
3. Install a TD04-13T or 19T turbo. I've had good luck with Kinagawa turbo components.
4. Install an air-to-water intercooler, the biggest one you can effectively package into the available space.
5. Make all connections as smoot as possible and keep IC lines around 2-2.5 inches basically match the size of your intake manifold.

Good luck with this project. Looks like a fun one.

Adam R.

That's awesome to hear you've had your 2L for so long and it's still kicking! I appreciate the steps you laid out. That's pretty much what I am planning on doing, although I may try to initially postpone the intercooler just to get the install done, have some time to ponder the best way to package it, and be able to have a baseline for comparison. I am definitely going to need to do a water to air. I thought it might be easy to exit the engine bay out front for an air to air, but there is only an inch of space between the radiator and tire well. Should be enough for air to water coolant line though.

I've had two questions come up that I'm hoping someone might be able to help with. First one is in regards to the manifold. The manifolds I've found are high mount, since they're primarily designed for the Hilux which has more room up top. I'm really limited in space up high, so am thinking about just flipping the manifold upside down to make it a low mount. The flange looks symmetrical, and I don't see why this wouldn't work with the HD Automotive center port manifold:

Does anyone see a problem with this, or think it won't work for an obvious reason I'm overlooking? This manifold has the added benefit of supporting a t25, td04 or CT20 turbo. I also don't have an AC compressor to contend with, so I think the center port shouldn't be an issue.

My last question is about turbos. The kits come with a Garrett GBC17 36mm turbo, and I've seen a lot of people run and recommend the TD04 13T. I'm guessing the garrett will spool faster because it has a smaller compressor inducer and exducer, while the td04 will probably be capable of building more boost. I'm going to purchase new, so there isn't much a price difference. I'm leaning toward the Garret since I'm planning on running 15ish psi. Does anyone have more insight on how these turbos would differ in this application with the 2L motor? Anyone recommend one over the other?

Hoping to order the manifold and turbo this week, hopefully should be able to dig in soon.

Thanks!

 

[4Ruster]

I had my manifold made up by a local fabricator, I recommend going the same route and it'll probably cost half the price

 

[dirtyham]

Whistle N Soot here in Aus did a turbo kit on a 3B in a Toyota coaster bus and from memory they did a front mount as well. if you can dig up those pics they would be a big help in some inspiration and ideas for you mate.

 

[DieselSobchak]

Nice truck! I'm definitely interested in how you fit everything under the cab. A good friend of mine has a 1997 Dyna that was imported here to the states a few years back. 3L engine with only 60 kilometers on it. Also a cabover truck, we just did the timing belt, water pump and serpentine belts back in January. It really struggles going up hills and I want to help them put a turbo on it just for the sake of moving more air when required. As far as I know the fueling is stock but there's definitely unburned fuel that needs tending do as it makes some black smoke under load.

I have some experience with diesels but it's mostly in the truck realm. But for both our applications a larger exhaust housing will definitely help with moving more air and keeping things cool with the added power. A smaller turbine helps with quicker spool up, but becomes a restriction at some point.

I also would prefer an air to air intercooler, but don't know where to mount it with the cabover design. A remote cooler with a fan could be an option, on my friend's Dyna that is how the A/C condenser is set up as there is no cooling stack in the front like other vehicles.

Good luck with the project and hope to learn some things too.

 

[Miloslavich]

any more pics of your rig? would love to see some of the camper