Towing with a 200-series Toyota Land Cruiser (5 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

IMG_4948.png
IMG_4946.png


Was fighting a decent headwind and temperatures on the way home from Montana today. It was 94 on the dash. Keep in mind this was at 5000-6500’ of elevation.

Transmission temps with the 8 speed were no worse than previous trips and didn’t see much over 240 in the pan. This was with my 315/70’s so I was spending a lot more time in 4th and 3rd gear with the torque converter unlocked than previous tows. This seems weird to me that temps wouldn’t be higher but I also didn’t pull grades that were as long.

The truck pulled well with the 315/70’s overall but there was one big grade where I ended up in 3rd, and had my foot buried, but ended up around 50mph and 3700 rpm. The jump to 2nd gear was too big and was stuck in 3rd. So a shorter axle ratio would have helped there.

One thing I thought was weird was how high the intake air temps were. I was seeing well over 100F most of the drive and up close to 130F at some points. This seems really strange to me for an NA motor.

Is that just heat soak of the maf sensor? Has anyone tried insulating the intake tube? It’s probably getting blasted by hot air from the cooling stack.
 
Last edited:
View attachment 3651442View attachment 3651441

Was fighting a decent headwind and temperatures on the way home from Montana today. It was 94 on the dash. Keep in mind this was at 5000-6500’ of elevation.

Transmission temps with the 8 speed were no worse than previous trips and didn’t see much over 240 in the pan. This was with my 315/70’s so I was spending a lot more time in 4th and 3rd gear with the torque converter unlocked than previous tows. This seems weird to me that temps wouldn’t be higher but I also didn’t pull grades that were as long.

The truck pulled well with the 315/70’s overall but there was one big grade where I ended up in 3rd, and had my foot buried, but ended up around 50mph and 3700 rpm. The jump to 2nd gear was too big and was stuck in 3rd. So a shorter axle ratio would have helped there.

One thing I thought was weird was how high the intake air temps were. I was seeing well over 100F most of the drive and up close to 130F at some points. This seems really strange to me for an NA motor.

Is that just heat soak of the maf sensor? Has anyone tried insulating the intake tube? It’s probably getting blasted by hot air from the cooling stack.
I would try to find a set of OEM 3.91gears from the earlier 200s and probably look into some supplemental transmission cooling, whether that’s an additional radiator or swapping in a larger radiator or adding an electric fan.

I want to say Teck has gone down that road. Not sure. If what you posted was typical use for my 200, I would at the very least be doing a drain and fill every 20k and looking at gears.

Just wait till your fuel boils in the fuel line. Haven’t seen a forum fix for that yet.
 
View attachment 3651442View attachment 3651441

Was fighting a decent headwind and temperatures on the way home from Montana today. It was 94 on the dash. Keep in mind this was at 5000-6500’ of elevation.

Transmission temps with the 8 speed were no worse than previous trips and didn’t see much over 240 in the pan. This was with my 315/70’s so I was spending a lot more time in 4th and 3rd gear with the torque converter unlocked than previous tows. This seems weird to me that temps wouldn’t be higher but I also didn’t pull grades that were as long.

The truck pulled well with the 315/70’s overall but there was one big grade where I ended up in 3rd, and had my foot buried, but ended up around 50mph and 3700 rpm. The jump to 2nd gear was too big and was stuck in 3rd. So a shorter axle ratio would have helped there.

One thing I thought was weird was how high the intake air temps were. I was seeing well over 100F most of the drive and up close to 130F at some points. This seems really strange to me for an NA motor.

Is that just heat soak of the maf sensor? Has anyone tried insulating the intake tube? It’s probably getting blasted by hot air from the cooling stack.
That is high for intake air temp. We run the fabulous fabrication snorkel and our intake temps are never more than a couple degrees from ambient. I would imagine drawing air closer to the engine, especially at the temps your showing, would have a drastic effect on intake air temp.

I can relate to the 3rd gear at 50mph power hole… it’s not fun.
 
Possibly stupid question...
We're leaving tomorrow AM and would love to just release the parking brake put it in gear and go. That would mean hitching up the ball and setting the WD tension bars NOW and letting it sit 16 hrs hitched and WD bars under tension.

So any reason NOT to do that?🤔
 
Possibly stupid question...
We're leaving tomorrow AM and would love to just release the parking brake put it in gear and go. That would mean hitching up the ball and setting the WD tension bars NOW and letting it sit 16 hrs hitched and WD bars under tension.

So any reason NOT to do that?🤔
Are you concerned about wearing out the WD bars overnight? I can't imagine that being a problem. Certainly, don't store it long term with the bars under tension. Maybe don't park on a hill overnight with just your LC hand brake holding everything. Use wheel chocks.
 
View attachment 3651442View attachment 3651441

Was fighting a decent headwind and temperatures on the way home from Montana today. It was 94 on the dash. Keep in mind this was at 5000-6500’ of elevation.

Transmission temps with the 8 speed were no worse than previous trips and didn’t see much over 240 in the pan. This was with my 315/70’s so I was spending a lot more time in 4th and 3rd gear with the torque converter unlocked than previous tows. This seems weird to me that temps wouldn’t be higher but I also didn’t pull grades that were as long.

The truck pulled well with the 315/70’s overall but there was one big grade where I ended up in 3rd, and had my foot buried, but ended up around 50mph and 3700 rpm. The jump to 2nd gear was too big and was stuck in 3rd. So a shorter axle ratio would have helped there.

One thing I thought was weird was how high the intake air temps were. I was seeing well over 100F most of the drive and up close to 130F at some points. This seems really strange to me for an NA motor.

Is that just heat soak of the maf sensor? Has anyone tried insulating the intake tube? It’s probably getting blasted by hot air from the cooling stack.

Pretty consistent with what I see when the rigs doing work. The intake is pulling from within the fender which is outside the engine bay, but could still see some heat influence. Here's a snap pretty close to yours. Nothing to worry about IMO as it's been validated to work and work reliably.

1718218573652.png
 
Just posted this in my other thread on my 2017 LX570. I think lots of this has been discussed in this towing thread already, but thought it's worth sharing. I have had several questions from folks on other videos asking for a more detailed in depth video to cover tips on towing with a 200 series Land Cruiser or an LX570. I hope this video is helpful for you all on tips for towing with a 200 series. This is more high level tips when towing with a 200 series, nothing mind blowing though :cool:

-
 
Possibly stupid question...
We're leaving tomorrow AM and would love to just release the parking brake put it in gear and go. That would mean hitching up the ball and setting the WD tension bars NOW and letting it sit 16 hrs hitched and WD bars under tension.

So any reason NOT to do that?🤔

Are you concerned about wearing out the WD bars overnight? I can't imagine that being a problem. Certainly, don't store it long term with the bars under tension. Maybe don't park on a hill overnight with just your LC hand brake holding everything. Use wheel chocks.
I wouldn't have thought 1 night would have fatigued the bars. Rather, I was trying to get a sense of what's good practice over time.

Also, I don't know what I don't know. 😁
 
Dead giveaway of real intelligence!

Your question has me thinking, does the 7-pin umbilical have power when the car is off? Could staying hooked up with the car off potentially drain your starter battery overnight?
Wow I can actually be helpful here. The LC is relay protected. There's no power off the LC with the IGN off.

Interestingly, in my case, the trailer's 7 pin Black IS energized with 14.3VDC as it's connected straight to the Lithiums which, if the LC were NOT relay protected, would CHARGE the LC's battery!

I as I charge my trailer batteries via a SB-175 at the bumper of the LC I do not need the LC Black to charge the trailer's batteries. I have therefore disconnected the black wire inside the 7 pin because when the LC is running the LC supplies 13.6V and the trailer supplies 14.3.
 
What's this??
Yeah I had not heard of this. I thought it was the 21st century and these kinda things didn’t happen anymore.

Why not just wrap the fuel lines in insulation near the motor and any points they pass close to the exhaust?
 
Last edited:
Wow I can actually be helpful here. The LC is relay protected. There's no power off the LC with the IGN off.

Interestingly, in my case, the trailer's 7 pin Black IS energized with 14.3VDC as it's connected straight to the Lithiums which, if the LC were NOT relay protected, would CHARGE the LC's battery!

I as I charge my trailer batteries via a SB-175 at the bumper of the LC I do not need the LC Black to charge the trailer's batteries. I have therefore disconnected the black wire inside the 7 pin because when the LC is running the LC supplies 13.6V and the trailer supplies 14.3.
Unless the LFP batteries are actively being charged, they will not sit at 14.3V. They only sit there when on a charger but drop to around 13.6V at 100% SOC when resting as far as I know. Anything less than 100% SOC and they are below 13.6V resting
 
Last edited:
Yeah I had not heard of this. I thought it was the 21st century and these kinda things didn’t happen anymore.

Why not just wrap the fuel lines in insulation near the motor and any points they pass close to the exhaust?

Like this

 
Like this

Just toss some dry ice in the gas tank :rofl:

When it sublimates it will just be CO2 and wont be dangerous.
 
Unless the LFP batteries are actively being charged, they will not sit at 14.3V. They only sit there when on a charger but drop to around 13.6V at 100% SOC when resting as far as I know. Anything less than 100% SOC and they are below 13.6V resting
You are correct. Right now sitting in a campground at night the battery voltage is 13.2V.

However, they are almost constantly being charged. There are 2 solar panels on the roof so if there is any appreciable sun they are being charged. Under tow they are also optionally charged via a REDARC BCDC1250D with the Anderson connector connected to the LC.

I measured the 14.3V while sitting at a partially shaded campsite.

I wasn't comfortable with the 7 pin's black trailer-side at 14.3V connected to the LC's black at 13.6V while under tow.
 
This is crazy to me. I know y'all deal with these kinds of temps if you're doing work with your 200, which I fully support.

But once I installed a cooler, I've never seen pan temps over 210 in my Tundra, no matter what I'm pulling or at what altitude. I stick to S4 unless on flat highway. My 6 speed locks up in 4, 5, and 6.

Is it a combination of a bigger cooler up front and higher gears in the axles in my Tundra? Is the lockup programming different?

Why do Tundras with the same engine/transmission run significantly (~10%) cooler? Some of the guys on the Tundra forum who pull 8k report that, counterintuitively, their trucks run cooler with the thermostat pinned open. I would think there would be no difference once you're past the point of it opening, but maybe it doesn't open all the way on its own until you're at very hot temps. Mine seems to open at 195 and stays there unless I'm doing work.
 
This is crazy to me. I know y'all deal with these kinds of temps if you're doing work with your 200, which I fully support.

But once I installed a cooler, I've never seen pan temps over 210 in my Tundra, no matter what I'm pulling or at what altitude. I stick to S4 unless on flat highway. My 6 speed locks up in 4, 5, and 6.

Is it a combination of a bigger cooler up front and higher gears in the axles in my Tundra? Is the lockup programming different?

Why do Tundras with the same engine/transmission run significantly (~10%) cooler? Some of the guys on the Tundra forum who pull 8k report that, counterintuitively, their trucks run cooler with the thermostat pinned open. I would think there would be no difference once you're past the point of it opening, but maybe it doesn't open all the way on its own until you're at very hot temps. Mine seems to open at 195 and stays there unless I'm doing work.
The Tundra is not fulltime 4wd. I assume that has a little to do with it? Also, the Tundra I assume weighs less?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom