We managed to skip big cities on our way last time. Beautiful country.
This was this years route but it boiled down to we didn’t have enough time. So I don’t know what we are doing.
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This was this years route but it boiled down to we didn’t have enough time. So I don’t know what we are doing.
The upstate New York route would be nice. There’s lots of camping on iOverlander all through the North East… now you have me thinking. Avoiding large cities would be key and there’s lobsters up there.
Adirondack Park is awesome. We live up there. Moose River Plains has some nice wild/rural camping (free) as well. Heading there to our camp today for the weekend.
Honestly last time we went through there was my first trip up. I had no idea up state NY was that beautiful, I just pictured New York City for the entire state. We camped on the bank of Lake Erie, saw Niagara Falls, saw her family, just enjoyed it. I’d like to go back in the fall next time.
Like posted above Adriondac park is WoW.
Yes lobsters up there, I don’t even like seafood and I like Maine Lobster.
- Thread starter
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I have a stellar dispersed camping sit at the north rim that’s right on them rim. PM me for coordinates if you’re interested.
Hit up Peekaboo and Spooky slot canyons just south of Escalante UT. They are about 20 miles down a dirt road(hole in the rock road)that terminates at lake powell. Only thing is, I dont know that you can continue east toward moab off of that road, you might have to head back up toward escalante and get back on pavement. But then just east of there you can jump on the Burr Trail in Boulder UT and pass through the southern end of Capitol Reef. That might connect you over to other trails that can get keep you going toward Moab.
We've been to a lot of slot canyons over the years but those were the best weve been to. My wife was fairly pregnant at the time and could barely shimmy through.
Thanks for this suggestion, this sounds super accessible for us and we’ve been hunting slot canyons. Waypoints added!
Is Adirondack large enough to not be crazy on Memorial Day Weekend? Enjoy your time and I hope you get a great spot!
FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
I went and got the AMPLock hitch lock. It's a real beast and as I suspected I ran into fitment issues. The problem is with the backing of the plastic trim piece. Without it, it fits just fine. So I milled out a semicircular section with a Dremel cutting bit and sanded it with a sanding drum. It came out OK. It took me about 2 hours.
It's all covered with the bumper piece when not towing so there's no real aesthetic issues.
The yellow goo is fluid film.
It's all covered with the bumper piece when not towing so there's no real aesthetic issues.
The yellow goo is fluid film.
Filling up gas and checking tires and figured I’d fire off this post while my LRA fills up.
How are yall managing air pressures front to back while towing? I’m a few days into a trip and this has been on my mind based on some discussion on another thread relating to tire circumferences at different pressures. The extra weight in the rear naturally causes the pressure to be higher due to sidewall flex under load. My questions are:
1. How much difference front to back are yall running?
2. Could too much difference cause difficulty shifting out of 4Lo after a few hundred miles or more running on dirt?
3. I’m noticing tire cupping on this trip, air pressure related, under sprung, alignment? Probably a combo and difficult question, apologies.
How are yall managing air pressures front to back while towing? I’m a few days into a trip and this has been on my mind based on some discussion on another thread relating to tire circumferences at different pressures. The extra weight in the rear naturally causes the pressure to be higher due to sidewall flex under load. My questions are:
1. How much difference front to back are yall running?
2. Could too much difference cause difficulty shifting out of 4Lo after a few hundred miles or more running on dirt?
3. I’m noticing tire cupping on this trip, air pressure related, under sprung, alignment? Probably a combo and difficult question, apologies.
I run 10 lbs more in my rear when loaded heavy for my big trips (45psi rear 35 front)
Which tires are cupping?
I do the same. There’s likely a fraction of a percent difference in rolling diameter and that is not enough to cause any problem with the slip in the torsen center diff to cause problems if the the front and rear drive lines are moving at different speeds.
All four are cupping. It’s not bad but I haven’t noticed since they are usually dirty. This is the longest asphalt stint we take annually so it’s finally visible.
I usually run 45 in the rest and 40 in the front and I based this off the cst scale results and doing the math based on the data on the tire. After they get hot those pressures grow to 55 rear 45 front.
This is good to know. I wonder what’s causing my difficulty to shift out of 4lo…. It does fine under short drives or just sitting but after driving g a while it’s reluctant to shift out. 25k on the odometer and I exercise it often.
I had a set of 315/70 KO2’s on my F150 that I just could not get to wear evenly. I chalk tested them and everything but they wore down the center of the tread much faster regardless.
They were Raptor takeoffs and tons of people on the Raptor groups had the exact same issues. Just seemed the tires wore that way no matter what
I’ve accepted that these will never hit the mileage but will be replaced due to time or damage. That being said, tire roaring should be kept to a minimum.
What tires are you running now?
I think the cupping is not psi related. That’s balance and alignment related.
If you are within the GVWR and rear axle weight rating, I think your tires are fine at their RTIP. Beyond that, I would go on comfort and handling to make changes.
Are you really running a few hundred miles in 4lo on dirt?
FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
I got weighed! 
Well we both did!
We filled the trailer with what we think is 90% of the junk we plan to take on our upcoming trip to the NC Outer Banks.
So we were dying to know what this thing actually weighed.
We had to do a bit of fiddling as the first weigh seemed suspect with the weights seemingly much too low on the trailer.
What happened was that we were a bit too short to get good front & rear axle readings for the truck and for the trailer.
Maybe not all scales are like this?
The CAT scale staff were very nice. It helped that they weren't busy I guess.
So, we we were instructed to back the truck & trailer up on the scales so that the truck was on the rear "DRIVE" axle scale and the trailer was on the first trailer "TRAILER AXLE" scale. That meant we got readings for the entire truck, not, as I said, for the trucks front and rear axle.
I was OK with this as the truck was running level with 13 PSI in the airbags and drove the 20 mi. to the scales very smoothly.
Tires are Michelin Defender LTX M/S 286/60R18 rated 120H or 3086 lbs 130 mph.
For convenient reference, numbers from the manual for the LC are: GVWR 7385lb, TWR 8100 lb, GCWR 14,400 lb.
The truck itself had maybe 200lbs cargo in it but we're not sure we should add much if anything to the truck.
I can beef up the pressure on the airbags too I guess (springs and shocks are OEM) if we were to start to sag in the rear.
Based on the numbers I guess any weight we add ought to go into the trailer?
Here's the numbers and how we wound up weighing the whole thing:
On the scales on the "DRIVE AXLE" scale:
"TRAILER AXLE" scale:
Well we both did!We filled the trailer with what we think is 90% of the junk we plan to take on our upcoming trip to the NC Outer Banks.
So we were dying to know what this thing actually weighed.
We had to do a bit of fiddling as the first weigh seemed suspect with the weights seemingly much too low on the trailer.
What happened was that we were a bit too short to get good front & rear axle readings for the truck and for the trailer.
Maybe not all scales are like this?
The CAT scale staff were very nice. It helped that they weren't busy I guess.
So, we we were instructed to back the truck & trailer up on the scales so that the truck was on the rear "DRIVE" axle scale and the trailer was on the first trailer "TRAILER AXLE" scale. That meant we got readings for the entire truck, not, as I said, for the trucks front and rear axle.
I was OK with this as the truck was running level with 13 PSI in the airbags and drove the 20 mi. to the scales very smoothly.
Tires are Michelin Defender LTX M/S 286/60R18 rated 120H or 3086 lbs 130 mph.
For convenient reference, numbers from the manual for the LC are: GVWR 7385lb, TWR 8100 lb, GCWR 14,400 lb.
The truck itself had maybe 200lbs cargo in it but we're not sure we should add much if anything to the truck.
I can beef up the pressure on the airbags too I guess (springs and shocks are OEM) if we were to start to sag in the rear.
Based on the numbers I guess any weight we add ought to go into the trailer?
Here's the numbers and how we wound up weighing the whole thing:
On the scales on the "DRIVE AXLE" scale:
"TRAILER AXLE" scale: