Builds TonyP's Build

[linuxgod]

Curious what your heavy battery draws are? In my mind 100aH is a lot of capacity. Enough to run my whole RV at least 2 full days with heavy use for a family of 4. Not criticizing, just interested.

I can't speak for Tony's use but we went 3+ days in the grand canyon off a 100Ah battery in our trailer. LED lights, 12V water pump, CO/Propane detector, fridge, and the furnace at night. We were around 11.7-11.8V when we left, I think. Furnace blower motor was probably the biggest Ah draw, so I could definitely see how a CPAP or other device might drain a smaller battery quickly

 

[TonyP]

Yes a device not intended to save power (primarily for home use) will drain a battery quickly. As will running this with all of the (many) accessories as well as a laptop for 8+ hours. Plus fridge, charging stuff, ect

Another pro of the lithium is the significantly quicker recharge rate.

 

[TeCKis300]

I can't speak for Tony's use but we went 3+ days in the grand canyon off a 100Ah battery in our trailer. LED lights, 12V water pump, CO/Propane detector, fridge, and the furnace at night. We were around 11.7-11.8V when we left, I think. Furnace blower motor was probably the biggest Ah draw, so I could definitely see how a CPAP or other device might drain a smaller battery quickly

Yup, likewise. On short duration weekend only trips, we don't bother conserving. Though I will give that trailers have the benefit of propane for the heavy lifting of fridge and heating. At nights for us, the furnace fan is the biggest draw.

200W of solar has been a game changer for us. It gives us that balance of battery reserve along with generation enough that we just about don't worry about power anymore. Sure more solar would be good, but if I expand, it'll be a portable 100W panel to cover cases we're shaded rather than more generation.

 

[OregonLC]

That's not a Land Cruiser!

 

[TonyP]

Same engine at least, mostly.

 

[RET2]

You forgot the word "almost". ROFL

 

[TonyP]

This thing is LIGHT! Almost feels fake.

 

[TonyP]

These showed up with it.

 

[mmcinnis]

This thing is LIGHT! Almost feels fake.

I purchased 40s that were cheaper than that! Welp back to the 25 section where lead batteries live on. Hahaha. Very cool.

 

[studawg]

Really sweet 200, great job, and I love that E28! Is that an actual Euro model or did you do the bumper swap?

Got most of the rear bumper installed except the lights. Started on the sliders then it started pissing rain out of nowhere. Guess I'll finish it tomorrow.

Yeah I need to trim that grass in the driveway. Stupid Home Depot weed killer was a waste of money.

 

[TonyP]

I purchased 40s that were cheaper than that! Welp back to the 25 section where lead batteries live on. Hahaha. Very cool.

Yeah it was pricey. But in the long run I think it'll even out since these last significantly longer than lead acid. Plus, it's half the weight and twice the capacity.

Really sweet 200, great job, and I love that E28! Is that an actual Euro model or did you do the bumper swap?

Started out as a USDM 535is with an automatic and factory LSD. Bought it with a blown headgasket and horrendous paint but ZERO rust. Swapped in a 5 speed, rebuilt the M30, repainted in Diamond Schwartz, and swapped out the diving board bumpers with fiberglass reproduction bumpers. Still needs interior work but the thing is a blast to drive. The big six engine is phenomenal. Especially in a "family sedan".

 

[TonyP]

Also, I'm brainstorming locations to re-mount the battery if the engine bay temps start getting too high for it. The internal BMS will cut off charging/discharging above 135*. Summer engine bay temps can get pretty high, so it'll be close. I ordered some heat shielding to wrap the battery in to try first. I'll monitor it.

Worst case, I'll mount it next to my inverter. Re-wiring will be pretty simple that way.

 

[Markuson]

Also, I'm brainstorming locations to re-mount the battery if the engine bay temps start getting too high for it. The internal BMS will cut off charging/discharging above 135*. Summer engine bay temps can get pretty high, so it'll be close. I ordered some heat shielding to wrap the battery in to try first. I'll monitor it.

Worst case, I'll mount it next to my inverter. Re-wiring will be pretty simple that way.

From what I read on the Redarc site, it looks like it can compensate for voltage drop in longer wire runs to batteries while charging...

 

[TonyP]

From what I read on the Redarc site, it looks like it can compensate for voltage drop in longer wire runs to batteries while charging...

Yup, it'll boost voltage as required. It's a cool unit, and pretty small.

I ordered a wireless thermometer to attach to the battery. We'll see how the engine bay mounting turns out.

 

[Markuson]

Yup, it'll boost voltage as required. It's a cool unit, and pretty small.

I ordered a wireless thermometer to attach to the battery. We'll see how the engine bay mounting turns out.

Trying to figure out if that Redarc can be used in conjunction with my IBS dual battery manager... I don't find any mention of existing dual battery system integration. Assuming it replaces it, but trying to wrap my head around Redarc's means of control over linking, isolating, etc. when desired.

 

[TonyP]

It has a battery isolator with voltage cutoff built in. It pretty much does what the IBS can do except manually link batteries (I think). But I think it can be wired in conjunction with the IBS. I know it can be wired in conjunction with the Redarc isolator, I emailed Redarc about that specifically since I like the idea of a manual link. This is what they sent back as a wiring solution. This is probably how I'll wire mine.

 

[Markuson]

It has a battery isolator with voltage cutoff built in. It pretty much does what the IBS can do except manually link batteries (I think). But I think it can be wired in conjunction with the IBS. I know it can be wired in conjunction with the Redarc isolator, I emailed Redarc about that specifically since I like the idea of a manual link. This is what they sent back as a wiring solution. This is probably how I'll wire mine.

Ya, I want to retain the ability to manually link as well, and had read a review where someone was complaining about having to physically swap batteries in order to start after start went dead, and no way to manually link. So...trying to figure this out as the electrical moron that I am.

 

[OregonLC]

Could your manual link solution be as simple as an Anderson connector?

 

[TonyP]

Or a set of jumper cables and jump yourself.

 

[Markuson]

Or a set of jumper cables and jump yourself.

Ya. That's always an option. Right now I simply press a link button next to my driver's seat.

First world problem for sure...but I'd prefer to retain that. Bottom line, though, is I need a better charge solution for my dual AGMs. The fuse resistor solution does help, but still doesn't quite top things off as well as a Redarc or similar.