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Very good. Small and powerful little unit.
It's a set it-forget it type thing so no complaints so far. Keeps both batteries topped up. I ran my Lithium dead after keeping my inverter on for two days so I know for a fact the battery isolation works.
I haven't wired in my solar yet but that's next before Moab.
How has your lithium battery held up since being run down? I'd read that if you run a lithium-poly battery down to 0 that it can't be recharged.
 
Much better! Removed a ton of wiring. Switchpros is such a quality product. Should have bought this a long time ago.

20180407_152626.jpg
 
That looks clean. Did you bolt that directly to the trim?

I didn't want to drill into the dash so I used extra strength 3M double sided tape. s***s strong as hell. It isn't going anywhere. The switch labels might seems disorganized but the four on the right are the high-amp switches where as the left 4 are lower amp. I'll probably use that open switch for side lights I may get if I get a roof rack.

Also, wired in the Redarc dual battery gauge, just need to mount the gauge itself. It's going where the four switches are near your right knee.
 
I didn't want to drill into the dash so I used extra strength 3M double sided tape. s***s strong as hell. It isn't going anywhere. The switch labels might seems disorganized but the four on the right are the high-amp switches where as the left 4 are lower amp. I'll probably use that open switch for side lights I may get if I get a roof rack.

Also, wired in the Redarc dual battery gauge, just need to mount the gauge itself. It's going where the four switches are near your right knee.
Awesome. I’m always worried about 3M tape because I wheel in the desert a lot and I’ve had some melt right off. But it wasn’t the super strong stuff. I’m gonna install the CTEK250 that I have and if it’s not enough, I’m gonna consider the Redarc. I plan to install my IBS gauge on the A pillar using a proclips mount. We’ll see how it holds up.
 
Much better! Removed a ton of wiring. Switchpros is such a quality product. Should have bought this a long time ago.

20180407_152626.jpg

Nice, Tony. Whenever I finally get around to lockers & roof rack/lights, switchm-pro will be the thang.
 
Awesome. I’m always worried about 3M tape because I wheel in the desert a lot and I’ve had some melt right off. But it wasn’t the super strong stuff. I’m gonna install the CTEK250 that I have and if it’s not enough, I’m gonna consider the Redarc. I plan to install my IBS gauge on the A pillar using a proclips mount. We’ll see how it holds up.

Yeah, we'll see how it holds up in Moab in a few weeks. The interior of my rig doesn't really get super hot for some reason. But it's insanely secure, shockingly secure actually. The CTEK is nice. I've been very impressed with Redarc products and customer support is great so I'm sticking with them for now. For how small the BCDC is and for what it does I'm more than happy.

Be mindful of the airbags. A gauge pod rocketing at your face will ruin a day.
 
Yeah, we'll see how it holds up in Moab in a few weeks. The interior of my rig doesn't really get super hot for some reason. But it's insanely secure, shockingly secure actually. The CTEK is nice. I've been very impressed with Redarc products and customer support is great so I'm sticking with them for now. For how small the BCDC is and for what it does I'm more than happy.

Be mindful of the airbags. A gauge pod rocketing at your face will ruin a day.
That’s a solid point. I may have to reconsider that. Hahaha.
 
Is there a reason you guys prefer the switch pro? Vs the sPod?

It came down to the switches themselves, the control box, price, and amperage for me. sPod has either manual switches which take up a ton of space, a wonky looking push-panel or an LCD which looks like it's from 2004. The Switchpro panel is thin, classy, and looks much better in my opinion. The control box in the sPod is rather large whereas the Switchpro is surprisingly small. Though (I think) sPod has the ground incorporated whereas the Switchpro you need to set your own grounds for each circuit. I could be wrong on that. Max amp for sPod is 30A per switch, max for Swichpro is 35A per switch on the high side. I don't foresee us running anywhere near that but still, 5A is 5A. And price, Switchpro is $200 cheaper.
 
It came down to the switches themselves, the control box, price, and amperage for me. sPod has either manual switches which take up a ton of space, a wonky looking push-panel or an LCD which looks like it's from 2004. The Switchpro panel is thin, classy, and looks much better in my opinion. The control box in the sPod is rather large whereas the Switchpro is surprisingly small. Though (I think) sPod has the ground incorporated whereas the Switchpro you need to set your own grounds for each circuit. I could be wrong on that. Max amp for sPod is 30A per switch, max for Swichpro is 35A per switch on the high side. I don't foresee us running anywhere near that but still, 5A is 5A. And price, Switchpro is $200 cheaper.
Have you seen the new Bantam sPod? The buttons are the same as the prior model but it has some cool features. It does have the ground integrated. But it also has the ability to have other sources to trigger each switch. I.e. if you want your rock lights to come on temporarily when you hit your alarm with your door lights, you just run a wire to the sPod. Or if you want to trigger rear facing lights when you go in reverse. It’s nothing a properly installed diode couldn’t do, but it makes it easy. And it has Bluetooth connectivity to your phone and you can use Siri to trigger switches too.

But I agree. The physical buttons don’t look as good as the switch pro. I have the touch screen in my Tundra. It sucks. Very non responsive. What lamer is they won’t sell me the HD button pad. I have to get a whole new sPod. Which is why I’m looking at options.
 
Have you seen the new Bantam sPod? The buttons are the same as the prior model but it has some cool features. It does have the ground integrated. But it also has the ability to have other sources to trigger each switch. I.e. if you want your rock lights to come on temporarily when you hit your alarm with your door lights, you just run a wire to the sPod. Or if you want to trigger rear facing lights when you go in reverse. It’s nothing a properly installed diode couldn’t do, but it makes it easy. And it has Bluetooth connectivity to your phone and you can use Siri to trigger switches too.

But I agree. The physical buttons don’t look as good as the switch pro. I have the touch screen in my Tundra. It sucks. Very non responsive. What lamer is they won’t sell me the HD button pad. I have to get a whole new sPod. Which is why I’m looking at options.

Switchpro has external trigger too. I haven't looked too far into it though. Maybe something for my LP9s which have three modes.

It also has bluetooth too.

They're both great products which everyone should look into. All that wiring, fuses, relays take up tons of space and look wacky as hell. You'll be amazing at how simple a switching solution (either SwitchPros or sPod) will simplify your system. I feel like a prickjob not buying one sooner. Do it!
 
Love the mounting location... haven’t seen that before but it’s a great idea.
 
Switchpro has external trigger too. I haven't looked too far into it though. Maybe something for my LP9s which have three modes.

It also has bluetooth too.

They're both great products which everyone should look into. All that wiring, fuses, relays take up tons of space and look wacky as hell. You'll be amazing at how simple a switching solution (either SwitchPros or sPod) will simplify your system. I feel like a prickjob not buying one sooner. Do it!

External trigger feature will make me consider it.

I think of security scenarios in camps such as Baja.

*Would be nice to be able to blast camp with light from inside your tent if some dude in baja seems suspicious in the middle of the night. Massive roof-rack lights blasting in his direction could very well send him running **without having to create a personal confrontation.** Or maybe you're in critter country like Alaska, and you need to see what's scuffling around camp...without drawing it's attention to your tent.

Not a must-have, but something I think would be a cool function.
 
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Looks like postimage deleted all my images in this thread. Sweet. I'll have to go through and fix all the broken links. Not today though.

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Getting prepped for the Southwest Adventure trip and Cruise Moab. If you didn't see, I won 2nd place in the Southwest Adventure 2018 photo contest thanks to a pic by @kreiten I won some rear links, a panhard bar and a spot on the trip with a bunch of cruiser guys, vendors and Australians. I'm sure I'll make fun of their gun laws at some point and get asked to leave the group. Looking forward to trying out the gear in a couple weeks. I'll get them installed, get an alignment and do some stupid stuff in the 200 in Moab, again.

Here's what I've done so far:

Installed BP-51s. No issues with the Tough Dog setup at all. I just got a silly good deal on a set of basically new BPs that I couldn't pass up (at nearly the cost of a basic OME kit). So far so good. Still fiddling with the settings but I'm enjoying them. I'm keeping the TD stuff as backup.

Removed the KDSS relocation. It bent my links and hosed my bushings. Replacing those links sucks. If you have the relocation kit, check your end links.

Slapped on some Spidertrax spacers to get clearance for the 285/75r17 (34") Cooper S/T Maxx. They clear fine now. Not a huge fan of wheel spacers but I've had Spidertraxs on a few rigs that I've beaten the piss out of and they've held up well.

Rebalanced my Coopers for free at Discount Tire. I lost a couple of wheel weights in Baja and was getting some vibration at speed. Now it's smooth as glass.

ZLGbngB.jpg

VASZssq.jpg

y97viX4.jpg

4G1xbyb.jpg


Got the SwitchPros all wired up all neatly. Killer system. Buy one!

YXCKnh1.jpg


Wired in a cheapo switch panel for my rear lights, cargo lights (white and amber) and a couple power points. The rear camp lights can be triggered by the rear switch or the SwitchPros in the front from the driver's seat. (mind the dirt, I didn't vacuum after cutting the hole for the switches and the dremel cutoff wheels blast dust everywhere)

96VlwNy.jpg


Been tracking down an AIP code that wouldn't go away. Paul at @hewitttech has been great dealing with my barrage of emails. Looks like I've got a burnt out pump driver. Ordered a new/used one for $50.

SBJ2uZl.jpg
 
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Looks like postimage deleted all my images in this thread. Sweet. I'll have to go through and fix all the broken links. Not today though.

----------------

Getting prepped for the Southwest Adventure trip and Cruise Moab. If you didn't see, I won 2nd place in the Southwest Adventure 2018 photo contest thanks to a pic by @kreiten I won some rear links, a panhard bar and a spot on the trip with a bunch of cruiser guys, vendors and Australians. I'm sure I'll make fun of their gun laws at some point and get asked to leave the group. Looking forward to trying out the gear in a couple weeks. I'll get them installed, get an alignment and do some stupid stuff in the 200 in Moab, again.

Here's what I've done so far:

Installed BP-51s. No issues with the Tough Dog setup at all. I just got a silly good deal on a set of basically BPs that I couldn't pass up (at nearly the cost of a basic OME kit). So far so good. Still fiddling with the settings but I'm enjoying them. I'm keeping the TD stuff as backup.

Removed the KDSS relocation. It bent my links and hosed my bushings. Replacing those links sucks. If you have the relocation kit, check your end links.

Slapped on some Spidertrax spacers to get clearance for the 285/75r17 (34") Cooper S/T Maxx. They clear fine now. Not a huge fan of wheel spacers but I've had Spidertraxs on a few rigs that I've beaten the piss out of and they've held up well.

Rebalanced my Coopers for free at Discount Tire. I lost a couple of wheel weights in Baja and was getting some vibration at speed. Now it's smooth as glass.

ZLGbngB.jpg

VASZssq.jpg

y97viX4.jpg

4G1xbyb.jpg


Got the SwitchPros all wired up all neatly. Killer system. Buy one!

YXCKnh1.jpg


Wired in a cheapo switch panel for my rear lights, cargo lights (white and amber) and a couple power points. The rear camp lights can be triggered by the rear switch or the SwitchPros in the front from the driver's seat. (mind the dirt, I didn't vacuum after cutting the hole for the switches and the dremel cutoff wheels blast dust everywhere)

96VlwNy.jpg


Been tracking down an AIP code that wouldn't go away. Paul at @hewitttech has been great dealing with my barrage of emails. Looks like I've got a burnt out pump driver. Ordered a new/used one for $50.

SBJ2uZl.jpg
Dude that is super cool!!!
 
Good idea. I've been thinking a simple divider (2, to account for the folding seats) that mounts to the top of the rear seatbacks could work. I realize you have the second row removed.
 
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