Timing Belt for Dummies writeup

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2001LC said:
If that's Sealant I'm seeing on O-ring! OH NO:confused: Never use any Sealant on O-ring. If so Remove it and start again. Remember, you've 5 minutes (some instruction say 3 minutes) to install (torque in @ 13ft-lbf) water inlet housing, from moment you start applying sealant (FIPG 1282B).

Use soap water (Dove dish soap the best) to lube O-ring for install..

Not only will FIPG on or in place of rubber O-ring, make removal very difficult. It will also trap coolant in pockets and cause pitting & leaks.
View attachment 2825091
View attachment 2825092
Click to expand...

You have a good eye sir!

Thank you for trying to save me from mistakes.

I put some di-electric grease around the o-ring. I thought about soapy water, but I wanted to prep the new o-ring, and then do the FIPG, so I opted for the di-electric grease, which I think is very similar to plumber's grease.

Thank you again.

Just got back from buying a gallon of Toyota Red, and it is warming up, so off I go to finish this project!
 
2001LC said:
BTW: Looking at oil dipstick tube in above picture. Notice how oil muck is around the upper oil pan where dipstick tube attaches. There's and O-ring at end of tube. Every 2UZ weeps some oil here in time. Supper easy fix. Just clean, remove bolt (reach through fender well), pull tube out, replace O-ring 96721-19010.View attachment 2823473

Key is to clean first area. So no sand/dirt gets on O-ring or fall falls in engine. View attachment 2823476
View attachment 2823478
Click to expand...
This looks like a fun distraction to the task at hand, and I got a 96721-19010, but I can’t see a clear shot at the erea where the dipstick tube inserts into the block.
Since I can’t clean that area well, I will defer to another day…
 
A few thoughts after doing this project...

I am glad I took the radiator out - it gave me lots of room to work around the hard lines for AC.

If you did not replace your fan bracket the last time you replaced the belt, I am betting it will be ready for replacement this time. Do your self a favor and get one from Aisin before starting the project. Same goes for the rubber hoses on the coolant bypass/oil cooler.

I did the fuel filter while I was in there, and oil & filter as well.

I did some rough math and figured I spent close to $800 in parts for new hoses, timing belt and water pump kit, fan bracket, etc. That # only had one gallon of Toyota red, it did not have the oil filter.

Does anyone know how much the dealer is charging for this service these days?

And a picture that shows some cool details as I was wrapping up:

IMG_1063(1).JPG
 
PabloCruise said:
The LX fired right up, burped a few times and I have heat!

No leaks on the garage floor - I like that.

Question - I saw this when I was topping off the radiator. Do you all think this is the hose to the overflow leaking? Or something worse (crack at the inlet)?

View attachment 2828561
Click to expand...

Mop it up, clip a short piece of hose off the radiator end so it fits tight again....then wait and see.
 
PabloCruise said:
The LX fired right up, burped a few times and I have heat!

No leaks on the garage floor - I like that.

Question - I saw this when I was topping off the radiator. Do you all think this is the hose to the overflow leaking? Or something worse (crack at the inlet)?

View attachment 2828561
Click to expand...
Yes, that appears to be the coolant overflow line seeping. PN - 1640550020

I am sure you could find a piece of hose at the dealer or parts store to replace it with.
 
PabloCruise said:
You have a good eye sir!

Thank you for trying to save me from mistakes.

I put some di-electric grease around the o-ring. I thought about soapy water, but I wanted to prep the new o-ring, and then do the FIPG, so I opted for the di-electric grease, which I think is very similar to plumber's grease.

Thank you again.

Just got back from buying a gallon of Toyota Red, and it is warming up, so off I go to finish this project!
Click to expand...
Di-electric grease is also, right on the label, O-ring lube. Great for lubing any rubber bits you want to be able to disassemble later without destroying flesh and car parts. Big no on soap, that stuff can harden.
 
I did this over the weekend, although I had more than one hiccup on the way (my crank pulley holder wasn't stout enough, had to order one from amazon), I couldn't have done it without the OP. Thanks for the write-up. Note for any newbs like myself who attempt this...The L and R Cam markings on the timing belt are for the vehicles L and R, NOT your L and R as you are looking at the engine. :bang:
 
mhidpa said:
I did this over the weekend, although I had more than one hiccup on the way (my crank pulley holder wasn't stout enough, had to order one from amazon), I couldn't have done it without the OP. Thanks for the write-up. Note for any newbs like myself who attempt this...The L and R Cam markings on the timing belt are for the vehicles L and R, NOT your L and R as you are looking at the engine. :bang:
Click to expand...
👍
For posterity sake.

LEFT= Drivers Side
RIGHT= Passenger Side

*U.S. Left Hand drive*

The reference point assumes the person is seated and facing forward.
 
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flintknapper said:
👍
For posterity sake.

LEFT= Drivers Side
RIGHT= Passenger Side

*U.S. Right hand drive*

The reference point assumes the person is seated and facing forward.
Click to expand...
US Left hand drive, no?
 
Question for the timing belt experts: my radiator (and thermostat) are leaking and I was going to drop a new one in next week, but the timing belt is also about due to be changed out. That job is restrictive in so many ways (including but limited to experience, tools, and time), but the radiator I could handle. So I guess the question I have is: the FSM says to remove the radiator anyway, so it makes sense (to me) that the only extra cost for the timing belt service would be for the radiator (and coolant) itself, no? If I did the radiator now, and then had my mechanic do the timing belt in, say, the next year or so, they would just end up flushing and remove the radiator again anyway. What else is getting removed that could get replaced during the timing belt? Water pump I know. Fan pulley? Drive belt pulley?

Thanks!
 
No! We don't actually remove the radiator as FMS shows. I cover the rad fins to protect from damage. That said, there is some over-lap labor. So it's easiest to replaced rad with T-belt job and saves a little labor. But it not just a part's add, like a Fan Bracket would be (no added labor for FB).
 
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