Timing Belt for Dummies writeup (2 Viewers)

[abuck99]

If you’re wrenching for money leave it in, if you DIY and have the time then remove. It certainly is a little easier to work in that space with out radiator in the way and it’s only another 15-20min of effort on the way out and back in.

Also with removed you can throughly clean the fins and if desired flush the tank.

 

[2003lx470]

Recently, I did the timing belt change, and I ended up taking the radiator off. If you take it off, you will have a transmission fluid leak from the radiator and may need to check the level.

 

[Jdfern]

I covered the radiator with cardboard to protect it during the TB change, but ended up bumping it with a tool and caused a leak.
Murphy’s Law !

 

[AlpineAccess]

This job is vastly easier with it out. Its also a great time to replace the trans cooler lines and power steering hoses as you have plenty of room to make a mess without getting fluid all over everything.

Having the radiator out lets you get a cordless impact gun in to take out the crank pulley as well - which makes the job a lot easier than messing around the other contraptions.

 

[2001LC]

Engine coolant Radiator in or out, makes little difference to me. Unless I'm servicing (R&R, CLN or adding foam) radiator. In either case it's best to cover fins of radiator or condenser with corrugated cardboard.

 

[ibrahim83]

Engine coolant Radiator in or out, makes little difference to me. Unless I'm servicing (R&R, CLN or adding foam) radiator. In either case it's best to cover fins of radiator or condenser with corrugated cardboard.

At my shop we don’t remove the radiator when doing the job. A Milwaukee mid torque fits and undoes the crank bolt easy.

BUT we do end up replacing the radiator in a lot of cases as we’re the Ones doing the second belt replacement around 200k and by that time most radiators are browning, so we sell the radiator job by not adding additional labor. Just pay for the part.

That does make it easier because we don’t have to worry about damaging it, so we keep it in until the belt is done. That way we have something to lean on and to protect the condenser.


Do y’all end up with bruises on your chest after the job from the hood latch?

My first timers always come in the next morning complaining of what they think is chest pain, I ask them to pull up their shirt and check for bruising. It’s always blue
A right of passage if you will.

 

[2001LC]

At my shop we don’t remove the radiator when doing the job. A Milwaukee mid torque fits and undoes the crank bolt easy.

BUT we do end up replacing the radiator in a lot of cases as we’re the Ones doing the second belt replacement around 200k and by that time most radiators are browning, so we sell the radiator job by not adding additional labor. Just pay for the part.

That does make it easier because we don’t have to worry about damaging it, so we keep it in until the belt is done. That way we have something to lean on and to protect the condenser.


Do y’all end up with bruises on your chest after the job from the hood latch?

My first timers always come in the next morning complaining of what they think is chest pain, I ask them to pull up their shirt and check for bruising. It’s always blue
A right of passage if you will.

I lay a stake of old towels over the radiator support/hood latch. Works very well!

 

[ibrahim83]

I lay a stake of old towels over the radiator support/hood latch. Works very well!

That’s what we do. We let first timers do it without. Some figure it out once a bolt breaks loose and they end up in the latch chest first

 

[2001LC]

That’s what we do. We let first timers do it without. Some figure it out once a bolt breaks loose and they end up in the latch chest first

I'd for sure school first timers, in the finer point:

Towels and or foam rubber pad over radiator to lean over support.

Drain coolant from block peacocks & rad. Coolant flush should be added to service. Not bad idea to use a BG flush before starting TB service.

Replace spark plugs, thermostat and heater Tee if no record in last 90K miles.

Tip on R&R lower AC to fan bracket bolt. Access with 2' extension, w/universal and w/14mm 6 point socket on end. Through space between rack & pinion LH boot and R&P HP hard line.

Replace T-Belt, WP, both pulleys and tensioner always.

Clean gasket surface for water pump supper clean. Shops' likely will not take the "cure" time I do. But in most T-belt services, I coat block with 1282B FIPG, scrape flush with razor, and let FIPG cure over night before installing water pump.


Seal threads of 10mm allen-head bolt that retains tension pulley. It penetrates the oil pump housing. Leaks oil, if not done.

I replace the fan bracket almost every time I do the T-belt service. The cost is just a part, no labor.

Replace drive belt tensioner, if pulley bearing bad and or tension weak or belt rub marks on tension housing. The cost is just a part, no labor.

Tuck in wires harnesses before install of Fan Bracket

Or this happens if routed in front of fan bracket

This one is wrongly routed.

Don't forget to close the mouse door, before install of FB.

I replace the wire housing brackets clip on timing cover for the cam sensor, if broken (most are)

Use a torque wrench on all nuts & bolts.

 

[Petertn45]

Quick question in middle of replacing timing belt and lots of other stuff in my 2006 LX.

I rotated crank 45 degrees before TDC as FSM says, but when I removed the timing belt, the RH cam moved a bit clockwise. When I reinstall the belt, do I rotate it counterclockwise until marks line up? The belt looks off by a tooth, right? Thanks.

 

[2001LC]

Belt is off the marks, as you can see. But that doesn't mean your not in time. I can't see the crank hard timing mark, but if it's dead on as are the cam marks, you're timed.
Just continue with tear-down, clean up, assembly. Then worry about timing, when time to put belt on. At that time just place all 3 hard marks dead-on, and install belt.

Crank hard timing mark

 

[Petertn45]

I just wanted to report back that everything turned out great. I let it sit a day for the seal and added coolant today and burped the system. It runs nicely. Thanks for all who posted and offered advice, especially Paul/2001LC with his numerous detailed pictures and posts! The last timing belt was done by the first owner 11 yrs/77,000 miles ago (now has 155,277 miles). The belt looked just fine. I had watched the various videos out there and also had a 2007 FSM.

I replaced the following items:
-TKT021 kit from CruiserTeq, did not replace crank seal or cam seals
-Fan clutch, serpentine tensioner and idler, miscellaneous coolant hoses from McGeorge
-Fan bracket Aisin FBT-002 from Amazon
-Mishimoto radiator (had ordered OEM from out of state dealer, but they wouldn't ship it); hopefully it holds up. I am keeping the old one for now
-Just under 4 gallons of Super Long Life/SLL coolant
-Replaced the alternator brush. The harness looked fine, but it was a reman Denso from first owner by dealer 10 yrs/65k miles ago
-Oil change
*used the Aisin seal AB1207B1 in place of FIPG

Thanks again. I'm so happy I did this instead of taking it to the shop/dealer.

 

[landarcht]

I'm also getting the TB/WP done in couple of weeks.
Aside from what's included in the TB/WP kit from Cruiser Teq, I'm also getting their Fan Bracket assembly FAN50012.
I did not include the fan clutch 16210 50102? Is that different from fan clutch pulley 16371 0F010? A bit confused. Is this also usually replaced during this service?
I also got Toyota OEM radiator (Mexico Spec) 16400 50360 to be a good price and is a direct fit. Just need upper and lower hose part numbers confirmed.
Since serpentine/drive belt is also replaced, is there a separate tensioner for it as well? Is that part number 16603 0W030?
I will add the Clamp wiring harness as well in case it is broken and thermostat/gasket.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

I'm also getting the TB/WP done in couple of weeks.
Aside from what's included in the TB/WP kit from Cruiser Teq, I'm also getting their Fan Bracket assembly FAN50012.
I did not include the fan clutch 16210 50102? Is that different from fan clutch pulley 16371 0F010? A bit confused. Is this also usually replaced during this service?
I also got Toyota OEM radiator (Mexico Spec) 16400 50360 to be a good price and is a direct fit. Just need upper and lower hose part numbers confirmed.
Since serpentine/drive belt is also replaced, is there a separate tensioner for it as well? Is that part number 16603 0W030?
I will add the Clamp wiring harness as well in case it is broken and thermostat/gasket.

Fan Clutch is different than the pulley.

 

[Petertn45]

I'm also getting the TB/WP done in couple of weeks.
Aside from what's included in the TB/WP kit from Cruiser Teq, I'm also getting their Fan Bracket assembly FAN50012.
I did not include the fan clutch 16210 50102? Is that different from fan clutch pulley 16371 0F010? A bit confused. Is this also usually replaced during this service?
I also got Toyota OEM radiator (Mexico Spec) 16400 50360 to be a good price and is a direct fit. Just need upper and lower hose part numbers confirmed.
Since serpentine/drive belt is also replaced, is there a separate tensioner for it as well? Is that part number 16603 0W030?
I will add the Clamp wiring harness as well in case it is broken and thermostat/gasket.

The serpentine has a tensioner and an idler pulley. You can get the exact part number for them on a parts site like McGeorge or PartSouq for your specific model year.

 

[landarcht]

Folks at Cruiser Outfitters told me it comes in two sizes 90mm and 100mm for the 100 series, VIN number does not indicate which size so needs to physically measure, is that really true? Anyone ran into this before?

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Folks at Cruiser Outfitters told me it comes in two sizes 90mm and 100mm for the 100 series, VIN number does not indicate which size so needs to physically measure, is that really true? Anyone ran into this before?

What year is your 100? There is some overlap on the 90mm vs 102mm Drive/Serpentine Belt Tensioner Pulley. Fortunately it's quick and easy to measure.

 

[landarcht]

2005, production date 8/2004

 

[cruiseroutfit]

2005, production date 8/2004

That jives. EPC shows both as options. I suspect the date is more cut/dry but we don't have enough samples yet reasonably say.

 

[2001LC]

Drive belt size. Is often time, depending on if drive belt tension replace and with which one, or just its pulley. But all combination seem to work together, based on tensioner pointer/indicator. Some combos very tight belt at notch 1, other on last notice of the 3.