Timing Belt for Dummies writeup (4 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Oil Cooler hoses should look like these:

View attachment 2822366
View attachment 2822383

Yes Sir, it is correct for your vehicle and mine.



That would be the water bypass hose at the throttle body.


Sorry I've run out of time this morning. I need to get a knuckle on ASAP. Hope you've sorted out parts and other questions. If not hit me in a PM, I'll get to in the morning.

You can also ask your local parts guy at Toyota/lexus dealership, if in doubt.

I use PQ for part ID'ing and numbers, which it's very import to use VIN# .

Here is what I am looking to replace:

IMG_1003.JPG


Here is what I have from my local parts counter:
IMG_1004(1).JPG


The short hoses look fine, the curved one goes down by the oil filter adapter, the straighter one mounts on the thermostat housing:
IMG_1005(1).JPG


Honestly, 16295-50060 looks like my Huckleberry, or at least it looks a lot closer to what was on there. I am not sure if this would have ever been replaced?
IMG_1006(1).JPG


15777-50030 looks like it could be made to fit, but it doesn't look like what I was running. @flintknapper - was it a struggle to get yours on?
IMG_1007(1).JPG
 
Sorry I've run out of time this morning. I need to get a knuckle on ASAP. Hope you've sorted out parts and other questions. If not hit me in a PM, I'll get to in the morning.

You can also ask your local parts guy at Toyota/lexus dealership, if in doubt.

I use PQ for part ID'ing and numbers, which it's very import to use VIN# .
I enter my VIN into PartSouq. Once I have entered that, I have been looking in the sections for Engine Oil Cooler (1503), Radiator and Water Outlet (1603), and Fuel Injection System (2211) to find these hoses.

My local parts counter guy has been around for a while, but when I unsure about the hoses all he did was print the pictures that I have been looking at in PartSouq...

I think I am going to go with 16295-50060 and return the 15777-50030.

I hope my 16261-50090 comes in tomorrow.

IMG_1009(1).JPG
 
15777-50030 HOSE, OIL COOLER coming from block connecting into backside of oil cooler. Difficult to get to, best done with FDS out/off or oil filter housing off.
16281-50040 HOSE, WATER BY-PASS, NO.5 front/out lower hose on coming off oil cooler to metal pipe
16281-50030 HOSE, WATER BY-PASS, NO.4 short piece going to water inlet housing from metal pipe

16261-50090 HOSE, WATER BY-PASS. Water bypass joint front to ? (I'd have to look on 99) I think throttle body.

16295-50060 HOSE, WATER BY-PASS, NO.7 Throttle body to pipe
 
BTW: Looking at oil dipstick tube in above picture. Notice how oil muck is around the upper oil pan where dipstick tube attaches. There's and O-ring at end of tube. Every 2UZ weeps some oil here in time. Supper easy fix. Just clean, remove bolt (reach through fender well), pull tube out, replace O-ring 96721-19010.
004.JPG


Key is to clean first area. So no sand/dirt gets on O-ring or fall falls in engine.
Oil dip stick guide tube (1).JPG

oil dip stick guide tube seal, Leak confirmed 013 (1).JPG
 
Oil Cooler hoses should look like these:

View attachment 2822366
View attachment 2822383

Yes Sir, it is correct for your vehicle and mine.



That would be the water bypass hose at the throttle body.


15777-50030 HOSE, OIL COOLER coming from block connecting into backside of oil cooler. Difficult to get to, best done with FDS out/off or oil filter housing off.
16281-50040 HOSE, WATER BY-PASS, NO.5 front/out lower hose on coming off oil cooler to metal pipe
16281-50030 HOSE, WATER BY-PASS, NO.4 short piece going to water inlet housing from metal pipe

16261-50090 HOSE, WATER BY-PASS. Water bypass joint front to ? (I'd have to look on 99) I think throttle body.

16295-50060 HOSE, WATER BY-PASS, NO.7 Throttle body to pipe

The other end goes to engine block.

Wow, thanks guys!

Sorry I was not picking up what you were throwing down @flintknapper

chris-tucker-do-you-understand-the-words.gif


I did not have a good understanding that the coolant by-pass loop joined up with the oil cooler!

Thank you for your patience.

trying-try.gif
 
011-jpg.2823466


This looks like a very difficult hose to replace while the AC compressor is on the block and the engine is in the vehicle...

Not sure I want to take this on right now.

It's tight in there alright. New hose goes on without too much trouble but I had to cut my old one off.
 
I either R&R water house from block; when DS FDS out which gives more room to reach in, or oil filter housing off. I've never seen it leak, unless disturbed. So best to just leave it alone!
 
I either R&R water house from block; when DS FDS out which gives more room to reach in, or oil filter housing off. I've never seen it leak, unless disturbed. So best to just leave it alone!

I agree about leaving it alone.

What is FDS? Front drive shaft?
 
Supper easy fix. Just clean, remove bolt (reach through fender well), pull tube out, replace O-ring 96721-19010
Getting that dipstick tube bolt started during reinstall is a major PIA for folks with big hands, though. I had cortisol oozing out of my pores each of the 3-4 times I had to remove and reinstall that bolt. Perhaps it was my fear of possibly stripping the threads in the side of the head, because I knew that retapping the hole would be even more of a PIA.

This looks like a very difficult hose to replace while the AC compressor is on the block and the engine is in the vehicle...
It's relatively easy if you have long arms! :grinpimp: Certainly no need to fiddle with the A/C compressor - the clamps and hose are accessible with the compressor installed. I did what @flintknapper said and just cut the old one off, then reached up from underneath the truck to pop the new one on. Some soapy water and a pair of long needle nose pliers with a 45* bend made installing the upper (block end) clamp a breeze.

64088_I.jpg
 
Getting that dipstick tube bolt started during reinstall is a major PIA for folks with big hands, though. I had cortisol oozing out of my pores each of the 3-4 times I had to remove and reinstall that bolt. Perhaps it was my fear of possibly stripping the threads in the side of the head, because I knew that retapping the hole would be even more of a PIA.


It's relatively easy if you have long arms! :grinpimp: Certainly no need to fiddle with the A/C compressor - the clamps and hose are accessible with the compressor installed. I did what @flintknapper said and just cut the old one off, then reached up from underneath the truck to pop the new one on. Some soapy water and a pair of long needle nose pliers with a 45* bend made installing the upper (block end) clamp a breeze.

64088_I.jpg

Exactly how I did mine. Long reach needle nose 45° 👍
 
Getting that dipstick tube bolt started during reinstall is a major PIA for folks with big hands, though. I had cortisol oozing out of my pores each of the 3-4 times I had to remove and reinstall that bolt. Perhaps it was my fear of possibly stripping the threads in the side of the head, because I knew that retapping the hole would be even more of a PIA.


It's relatively easy if you have long arms! :grinpimp: Certainly no need to fiddle with the A/C compressor - the clamps and hose are accessible with the compressor installed. I did what @flintknapper said and just cut the old one off, then reached up from underneath the truck to pop the new one on. Some soapy water and a pair of long needle nose pliers with a 45* bend made installing the upper (block end) clamp a breeze.

64088_I.jpg

Exactly how I did mine. Long reach needle nose 45° 👍

I will take a look, heading out to the driveway now!
 
This happened last night.
The FIPG should be all nice and cured for coolant today:

IMG_1016(1).JPG

IMG_1041(1).JPG

IMG_1042(1).JPG


The housing is not completely clean in that image. I was scraping old material while watching some Thursday Night Football with my boy. Then I wiped with acetone to get the last little bits off, then prepped both surfaces w/ alcohol.
 
If that's Sealant I'm seeing on O-ring! OH NO:confused: Never use any Sealant on O-ring. If so Remove it and start again. Remember, you've 5 minutes (some instruction say 3 minutes) to install (torque in @ 13ft-lbf) water inlet housing, from moment you start applying sealant (FIPG 1282B).

Use soap water (Dove dish soap the best) to lube O-ring for install..

Not only will FIPG on or in place of rubber O-ring, make removal very difficult. It will also trap coolant in pockets and cause pitting & leaks.
IMG_6825.JPEG

IMG_6826.JPEG
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom