Timing Belt for Dummies writeup

[scottm]

Are you saying it is better to disconnect the hose down by the oil filter and drain?
Or are you saying drain this hose (as shown) before you remove thermostat?
Will I end up removing the oil filter housing? Wondering if I need to plan on an oil and filter change, also wondering if I need to replace some o-rings by the oil filter housing?

Been a while, but I think disconnecting the hose at the top was necessary, and lowering that hose was a simple way to drain the coolant as low as needed for the water pump replacement.

I believe the oil filter had to come out, to get a fan bracket bolt out. Perhaps could be done without removing the filter, but I chose to remove the filter.

 

[flintknapper]

Been a while, but I think disconnecting the hose at the top was necessary, and lowering that hose was a simple way to drain the coolant as low as needed for the water pump replacement.

I believe the oil filter had to come out, to get a fan bracket bolt out. Perhaps could be done without removing the filter, but I chose to remove the filter.

Yes, oil filter needs to be removed for best access to everything.

 

[2001LC]

Many ways to skin this cat.

 

[PabloCruise]

I scanned the instructions that came with the Aisin TKT-021 kit:

 

[flintknapper]

If at any point you have questions don't hesitate to ask here. We are more than willing to help. As I said in a previous post, to read about the procedure it sounds a bit daunting at first. But in practice.....if you get the witness marks all lined up, then you're good to go.

 

[PabloCruise]

Many ways to skin this cat.

On this note, it sounds like a few ways to loosen the crank bolt that holds the crank pulley on, yes?

It sounds like some use a big impact to bust it loose, and some use a holder on the pulley and a breaker bar.

But you can put a breaker bar on the driver side frame rail and bump the starter to break the bolt loose, yes?

The bolt is standard thread, not reverse thread?

 

[BnvS]

On this note, it sounds like a few ways to loosen the crank bolt that holds the crank pulley on, yes?

It sounds like some use a big impact to bust it loose, and some use a holder on the pulley and a breaker bar.

But you can put a breaker bar on the driver side frame rail and bump the starter to break the bolt loose, yes?

The bolt is standard thread, not reverse thread?

Just did the Timing belt.. in fact its still under progress as the radiator needs to be put back in. Anywhoo to answer your questions @PabloCruise

- Yes there are a few ways to open the crank bolt.
- I used impact wrench to open it. If you have space that would be the way to go. Easy way to come out if you have the radiator out already (which I would recommend)
- Yes you can use the breaker bar to crank nut and starter bump to break the bolt loose as well...but recommend using impact wrench.
- Crank Bolt is standard thread 18mm bolt iirc.... no reverse thread except for one which is the tensioner pully bolt which is a 14mm reverse threaded bolt.

Now the bigger b***h of the matter is getting the crank pulley out. I used a wd40 or similar oil to spray in the middle of the pulley and let it sit for few minutes, Then used short wooden 2x4 and hammer and hit the crank pulley at different angles to get it lose. Keep at it, its not the fastest method. You may have to do this a few times to work.

I also just used my Impact wrench to put the crank pulley bolt back on. It was pretty tight as around the 181 ft lbs it needs to be torqued.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Now the bigger b***h of the matter is getting the crank pulley out. I used a wd40 or similar oil to spray in the middle of the pulley and let it sit for few minutes, Then used short wooden 2x4 and hammer and hit the crank pulley at different angles to get it lose. Keep at it, its not the fastest method. You may have to do this a few times to work.

Three-jaw puller makes quick work of that…

 

[flintknapper]

On this note, it sounds like a few ways to loosen the crank bolt that holds the crank pulley on, yes?

It sounds like some use a big impact to bust it loose, and some use a holder on the pulley and a breaker bar.

But you can put a breaker bar on the driver side frame rail and bump the starter to break the bolt loose, yes?

The bolt is standard thread, not reverse thread?

Yes, standard thread on crank pulley bolt. Fortunately it is not torqued on as hard as is the one on a 1FZ-FE but there is still quite a bit of 'break away' torque required to get it loose.

Impact is the easiest way to do it. My second choice would be a holding tool and 3/4" breaker bar.

 

[flintknapper]

Three-jaw puller makes quick work of that…

Yes, ANY puller that will fit to it...is the way to go.

Once it starts to move.....you're pretty much home free.

Had to use a puller to remove the timing gear on the crankshaft on mine as well.

 

[bluesquirrel]

Yes, standard thread on crank pulley bolt. Fortunately it is not torqued on as hard as is the one on a 1FZ-FE but there is still quite a bit of 'break away' torque required to get it loose.

Impact is the easiest way to do it. My second choice would be a holding tool and 3/4" breaker bar.

View attachment 2818303
View attachment 2818304

This is what I used

 

[PabloCruise]

Yes, standard thread on crank pulley bolt. Fortunately it is not torqued on as hard as is the one on a 1FZ-FE but there is still quite a bit of 'break away' torque required to get it loose.

Impact is the easiest way to do it. My second choice would be a holding tool and 3/4" breaker bar.

View attachment 2818303
View attachment 2818304

I was all set to order one of those holding tools, but the soonest they would arrive was Sunday. I want to get started tonight…

 

[flintknapper]

I was all set to order one of those holding tools, but the soonest they would arrive was Sunday. I want to get started tonight…

Understand.

Remember you'll need to have some way to hold the Crank Pulley when you go to torque it upon re-installation. So you might figure on ordering it (or fashioning something) anyway. 181 ft. lbs.

But an impact or starter 'bump' method would get you started for now.

 

[2001LC]

On this note, it sounds like a few ways to loosen the crank bolt that holds the crank pulley on, yes?

It sounds like some use a big impact to bust it loose, and some use a holder on the pulley and a breaker bar.

But you can put a breaker bar on the driver side frame rail and bump the starter to break the bolt loose, yes?

The bolt is standard thread, not reverse thread?

Yes standard right hand thread.

I've not tried the bump starter method on any vehicle. As I've always had concern, it may damage starter or flexplate. Not saying it would, just my concern. Then we must torque bolt to 181ft-lbf during install, which starter bump method will not do! So this is poor choice IMHO!

The (pulley) harmonic balancer also has 2 threaded 8mm x 1.25 holes at 180 degrees of each other on the face. These are for the holder, also too attach a puller.

Chain Wrench method:
Before I purchased my holder tool. I used what most Toyota & Lexus shops use. In fact it was the most senior Lexus mechanic in CO that suggested it to me. A "Chain wrench" (found at most all hardware stores). With a short piece of drive belt wrapped around harmonic balance to protect the ribs of belt grooves. Some fear this method may damage the rubber between outer and center of harmonic balance, but I've not seen any. I see many that have the tell tell marks of chain wrench used without protect grooves with old drive belt, which histoys shows previous T-belt done at Dealership..

Unfortunately, my chain wrench is a bit thick (1/2" IIRC), so I must remove oil sending unit to fit it on harmonic balancer. Which threads of oil sending unit, I seal with FIPR oil 102 or 103. Any non-permanent thread sealant oil rated works.

Tips: This same mechanic taught me a very important lesson. At the time as we were tring to get the Harmonic balancer off a 2002 IS300. That was toughest crank bolt I've ever seen, much harder to remove than the one on a 4.7L 2UZ. Whatever tool used, it must not flex. If breaker bar flexes, then bolt wins. It's the same principle as the torque stick, which flexes at specific torque.

More tips:
I like to plug hole in oil pump housing (tenser pulley bolt hole) and cover oil cooler tube on oil cooler housing. So that chemicals/debris, don't get in as I'm disassembling & cleaning areas.

 

[2001LC]

Visual aids & tips.

Fan bracket, replace if and side to side play, sound when turned or oil on back seal.

Front of engine.
4.7L 2UZ VVT

4.7L 2UZ VVT
Crank sensor sprocket is keyed. Make sure aligned in key, concave out so that it doesn't rub on belt and spins centered on crank sensor.

 

[abuck99]

Don’t care for the bump start method. Chain wrench is iffy if not well insulated it will ruin your pulley. The Shiley holder tool works like a champ- sort of hard to justify if this is your 1 and only TB job. A robust impact gun can get the job done if you have one.

 

[97 AZ LC]

I just build a plywood crank pulley holder that rests on top of the passenger frame rail. Then to tighten I secure the plywood down to the frame rail with a chain. I just did a 304 ft lbs on an 80 series and it didn't even seem to stress the plywood. 181 ft lbs seems like nothing after you've done an 80 series.

 

[PabloCruise]

You guys are awesome!
Thank you for all the emotional handholding.
I will get started in a few. I was going to go swimming this morning, but we moved it to tomorrow. I am hoping it warms up a little before I get started, it is in the 40s now.

My friend who is a pro-wrench lent me his chain wrench for the weekend. That is all he uses for these jobs.

I did use the starter-bump method when I had to pull the front end off the 2F in my 40. I was a little nervous, but it worked like a charm. Obviously you want to have the socket fully seated on the bolt/nut before you give it a bump.

Another friend lent his big ass pneumatic impact, and a neighbor has a big ass electric impact. It seems like the impact choice requires removing the radiator which I am okay with. It doesn't look too difficult to pull, and then you can lay it flat and fill with water - hopefully cleansing it a little?

 

[PabloCruise]

So far it seems like the shroud is easy to pull if you remove the radiator first.

I forgot about the tranny cooler lines running to the radiator.

I opted to pull the battery as the driver side headlight is burned out.

With battery out, radiator can come out by moving up and to the driver side.

Then shroud.

 

[PabloCruise]

Fan doesn’t want to separate.