Timing Belt for Dummies writeup
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I just installed a Continental kit that I got from Rock auto. The bearings were Koyo and belt was Continental. Not sure where the water pump came from. Time will tell, I guess.
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
I read the pictures on page 1, but I do not think he showed pics of replacing the front main seal?
Getting ready to do this job...
Getting ready to do this job...
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Screw a wood screw in it a few threads, then pull with pliers. Install with a PVC coupler or nipple.
If factory seals aren't leaking, I'd do not touch them. I've yet to see crank or cam seals leaking or even weeping, unless they've been replaced or "HIGH Mileage Oil (very damaging to seals)" used. If leak does develop over next 90K, it will be very minor. It can always be replaced next T-belt job.
The most common leak I find, is tensioner pulley bolt (No. 1 timing belt idler). Which goes into oil pump housing. Only because last T-belt job, threads were not sealed with sealant. I typically use Toyota FIPG 102 or 103 0il, but any oil rated thread sealant will work. Just don't use a permanent one like red loctite.
Oil pump housing, idler pulley assembly bolt hole weep.
You'll for sure find pitting on the block under water pump gasket. Do not file on block as shown in thread. Use wire brush, green scratch pad, etc. and degreasers. Getting gasket mating surface and pits cleaned out. Then fill pits with FIPG 1282B, scrape flush to block, let cure before assemble.
BTW: The lower fan bracket bolt that goes through AC compressor, made easy.
Make sure to put the little cover spacer & gasket back on, after water pump installed and before fan bracket install.
I find this clip busted from previous service very often.
The most common leak I find, is tensioner pulley bolt (No. 1 timing belt idler). Which goes into oil pump housing. Only because last T-belt job, threads were not sealed with sealant. I typically use Toyota FIPG 102 or 103 0il, but any oil rated thread sealant will work. Just don't use a permanent one like red loctite.
Oil pump housing, idler pulley assembly bolt hole weep.
You'll for sure find pitting on the block under water pump gasket. Do not file on block as shown in thread. Use wire brush, green scratch pad, etc. and degreasers. Getting gasket mating surface and pits cleaned out. Then fill pits with FIPG 1282B, scrape flush to block, let cure before assemble.
BTW: The lower fan bracket bolt that goes through AC compressor, made easy.
Make sure to put the little cover spacer & gasket back on, after water pump installed and before fan bracket install.
I find this clip busted from previous service very often.
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This is very helpful.
I have some buildup down by the crank and so I thought it was my front seal…
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It could be the seal, but typically it's not. Once sprocket off, inspect seal to crank surface area.
Few more tips:
1) Make sure to tuck in the oil sending unit and crank sensor wires, before installing fan bracket.
2) Replace fan bracket if any doubt as to condition: i.e oil on back of seal in rear, any side to side play or any sound when spun.
3) Replace drive belt tensioner, if tension on drive belt is weak.
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Thanks. I replaced the tensioner for the serpentine belt a couple of years back when mine started making noise.
I ordered my kit - wish me luck!
Good luck!. Have fun! TAKE YOUR TIME! You'll do fine.
Start by draining coolant from block drains and radiator. Use catch pan under work area, to catch remaining coolant, as you dissemble.
Make sure to use a torque wrench on every bolt and nut, during assemble. Torque water pump bolts down snugly at first then final torque in cross pattern, is best practice..
I like putting on the tension pulley, then belt, then idler pulley. I find it easier! To keep belt in place, I very lightly clamp belt onto sprockets.
BTW. The clip on BK1 timing cover, will test you. I have to look at my pictures time and time again to remember, how to release the clip.
There is another way to get clip off.. Just remove timing belt cover enough, to release clip holder from the rear of cover.
Most shop just bust the clip. That's why I keep some clips in stock.
Start by draining coolant from block drains and radiator. Use catch pan under work area, to catch remaining coolant, as you dissemble.
Make sure to use a torque wrench on every bolt and nut, during assemble. Torque water pump bolts down snugly at first then final torque in cross pattern, is best practice..
I like putting on the tension pulley, then belt, then idler pulley. I find it easier! To keep belt in place, I very lightly clamp belt onto sprockets.
BTW. The clip on BK1 timing cover, will test you. I have to look at my pictures time and time again to remember, how to release the clip.
There is another way to get clip off.. Just remove timing belt cover enough, to release clip holder from the rear of cover.
Most shop just bust the clip. That's why I keep some clips in stock.
More BTWs:
Note that lower timing belt bolts are shorter than others.
Inspect the Aisin kit closely. I've had ~2 out of 5 with shipping damage. Most often found damage issue with them are:
1) Water pump water crossover pipe hole damage (out of round).
2) Water pump gasket damage (break or damage in/on rubber seal).
3) Damage to large or small O-ring.
I like R&R spark plugs and heater Tees with each T-belt job. Keeps them on schedule. Also, having plugs out during final belt timing mark inspection (720 degree turn), it's just that much easier to turn the crank by hand (wrench).
But crank, can certainly be turned with plugs in.
If any doubt as to front water bypass (pitting) or it's gaskets, sealing it to either head. Now is a great time to replace. Replace throttle body gasket also, if you pull it!
I keep most all parts that could be needed during t-belt job in stock. So if you can't get whatever you may need timely, hit me up.
Note that lower timing belt bolts are shorter than others.
Inspect the Aisin kit closely. I've had ~2 out of 5 with shipping damage. Most often found damage issue with them are:
1) Water pump water crossover pipe hole damage (out of round).
2) Water pump gasket damage (break or damage in/on rubber seal).
3) Damage to large or small O-ring.
I like R&R spark plugs and heater Tees with each T-belt job. Keeps them on schedule. Also, having plugs out during final belt timing mark inspection (720 degree turn), it's just that much easier to turn the crank by hand (wrench).
But crank, can certainly be turned with plugs in.If any doubt as to front water bypass (pitting) or it's gaskets, sealing it to either head. Now is a great time to replace. Replace throttle body gasket also, if you pull it!
I keep most all parts that could be needed during t-belt job in stock. So if you can't get whatever you may need timely, hit me up.
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Hey, thank you!More BTWs:
Note that lower timing belt bolts are shorter than others.
Inspect the Aisin kit closely. I've had ~2 out of 5 with shipping damage. Most often found damage issue with them are:
1) Water pump water crossover pipe hole damage (out of round).
2) Water pump gasket damage (break or damage in/on rubber seal).
3) Damage to large or small O-ring.
I like R&R spark plugs and heater Tees with each T-belt job. Keeps them on schedule. Also, having plugs out during final belt timing mark inspection (720 degree turn), it's just that much easier to turn the crank by hand (wrench).
If any doubt as to front water bypass (pitting) or it's gaskets, sealing it to either head. Now is a great time to replace. Replace throttle body gasket also, if you pull it!
I keep most all parts that could be needed during t-belt job in stock. So if you can't get whatever you may need timely, hit me up.
I am going to order up one of those clips you mention, chances are that mine is missing, or busted, or I will bust mine!
I am also going to order up some of those bypass pipe gaskets that we talked about back when I replaced my starter. They had 2 in stock, so I got those for the rear pipe, now I will get 2 more to do the front pipe.
I did the heater Ts with the starter last month, so those are new. I did plugs last summer, so those are relatively new. But I will pull them to make it easier to turn the engine over.
Thanks for all the help folks!
Is it your experience that the spacer and gasket are usually missing as well?
Random question - when I replaced the spark plugs last summer, the clips that held the wiring basically disintegrated. Do you know what p/n these are, and how many I need?
I am striking out searching through PartSouq
Thank you!
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You can inspect the clip now. If wire housing is held on t-cover you're good. If you do break, it can easily be install after the job is done at anytime.
I'd leave the spark plugs alone if newer, other than check the torque, which I use 18 ft-lbf. I say this because, the crush washer does not work as well the second time as is already crushed. Crank is only a little harder to turn, no big deal!
Not really. I'd say ~9 out of 10 are there.
Not sure what clips you asking about. Do you mean the coils' wire housing? No I don't. Or some of the clips holding wires along their path? Some we've tried to get and never found. Like the one holding wires on top just before wires drop down front of left (drive side) timing cover. These I just use ties.
For wire housings. I always just get from my local Toyota parts guy (25 yrs same location). He's really good at finding the small stuff. Which he's said, I order more small parts than anyone ever...LOL If he can't find on 100 series parts diagram, sometimes other Toyota's have the same and he finds. Others times I scavenge, from used harness I've around.
I am referring to the clips that hold the wires running to the coil packs along their path. Mine looked like this after they came apart:
Understood about asking the local counter guy, or just using zip ties.
Thanks!
Are you saying it is better to disconnect the hose down by the oil filter and drain?
Or are you saying drain this hose (as shown) before you remove thermostat?
Will I end up removing the oil filter housing? Wondering if I need to plan on an oil and filter change, also wondering if I need to replace some o-rings by the oil filter housing?
Yeah that is one I never found. I Zip tie them often.I am referring to the clips that hold the wires running to the coil packs along their path. Mine looked like this after they came apart:
Understood about asking the local counter guy, or just using zip ties.
Thanks!
No need to remove oil filter housing or oil filter, just oil cooler pipe with hoses. The exception is oil sensor unit, if using chain wrench to hold harmonic balancer (crank pulley).