Tie-Rod Contact on 16" Wheels :( Help

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Mar 5, 2015
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I just put on a set of studded tires and 16" wheels taken off of a newer land cruiser FJ60 onto my 1975 FJ40. Unbeknownst to me there is a tie-rod contact issue with many wheels and the FJ40 tie-rod. These are only tires that I will be using in snowy months (I know, the wheels look like shiat) is there a spacer that I can use in this situation to make it work? SEE PICS HERE: http://imgur.com/a/Bytmw

Please Help, I really do not want to have to get another set of wheels just for sloppy winter months.


Thanks!
 
Its hard to see from the pics how much contact you have, but you can get 1/4" spacers from most parts stores. I'd start there if you think the 1/4" will get you what you need.
 
Its hard to see from the pics how much contact you have, but you can get 1/4" spacers from most parts stores. I'd start there if you think the 1/4" will get you what you need.
Is it basically, try the spacer, if it is not enough then size up the spacer to the next increment?
 
Those are FZJ80 Wheels BTW.

What steering arms are you running? I run an almost identical wheel (LX450 wheel) with high steer and they do not rub.
 
Is this what you are referring to? 1/4" Wheel Spacer - JTOutfitters

I hate those spacers. Every time I have run them, I have had it move around, causing the lug nuts to loosen or snap off.

Since those 80-series wheel have 4.5" of backspacing, I would recommend running a (much safer) 1" spacer to get them back to a stock-like 3.5" of backspacing.

140001-1-KIT_ID.jpg


https://www.trail-gear.com/TG/Wheel_Spacers/p/_3338.aspx
 
Those are FZJ80 Wheels BTW.

What steering arms are you running? I run an almost identical wheel (LX450 wheel) with high steer and they do not rub.
Wish I could tell you. Any identifiers? I was under the impression that they were stock
 
Most definitely not stock. It was common in the 90's to cut a drivers side steering arm in half, then weld it to the passenger arm on SOA trucks. The down side of these is that they were (typically) welded by a hobbyist in their garage. This means that the weld is less-than ideal.

This may be a good opportunity to fix this potentially dangerous issue with an Aqualu double arm, or highsteer:

#4034-C Steering Arm - Mini Truck

4x4labs Frombe Steer – High Crossover Steering System | 4×4 Labs

High Steer Kit for FJ40 | Marlin Crawler, Inc.

Products - Steering - Front Range Off-Road Fabrication

My recommendation would be to call front range, because your probably going to need a custom solution to utilize as many of your existing parts as possible.
 
Most definitely not stock. It was common in the 90's to cut a drivers side steering arm in half, then weld it to the passenger arm on SOA trucks. The down side of these is that they were (typically) welded by a hobbyist in their garage. This means that the weld is less-than ideal.

This may be a good opportunity to fix this potentially dangerous issue with an Aqualu double arm, or highsteer:

#4034-C Steering Arm - Mini Truck

4x4labs Frombe Steer – High Crossover Steering System | 4×4 Labs

High Steer Kit for FJ40 | Marlin Crawler, Inc.

Products - Steering - Front Range Off-Road Fabrication

My recommendation would be to call front range, because your probably going to need a custom solution to utilize as many of your existing parts as possible.

This is all assuming that I have a cut and welded steering arm which is not the case, I just dont know the brand that is on there. Not like there is a logo or something to tell me
 
Now I'm curious. If that is in fact a 1-piece arm, I've never seen anything like it before.

Can you get some close up pictures of it?
 
I hate those spacers. Every time I have run them, I have had it move around, causing the lug nuts to loosen or snap off.

Interesting. I've had 1/4" spacers on for 6 or 7 years and haven't had one problem. I do check my lug nuts occasionally, but I've never found one loose. :meh: However, I'm not disagreeing that the bolt on spacers aren't a better design.


Most definitely not stock.

I missed that the first time. Yeah, the passenger arm is not stock. The OEM configuration is the relay rod end attached to the passenger rod end (the open hole on your passenger rod end). It appears that someone welded something to the passenger side arm to raise the relay rod. You could even find a used passenger side arm and return everything to stock. It just depends on what you want to do with your rig.
 
Glad I could peak your interest :) See pics here: Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

Happen to have a close-up picture or two of just the steering arm?

You could even find a used passenger side arm and return everything to stock. It just depends on what you want to do with your rig.

The one downside to this- is that Ben Wipple will get better steering response with the drag link flat. At some point, someone must have gotten tired of the way the truck drives with an angled drag link, and installed the double steering arm. If it were my truck (and I liked keeping a 4"+ lift), I would buy a high-steer kit and call it a day- in the process getting better steering arms, new heavy duty tie rod ends and clearance for the FZJ80 wheels.

This thread seems to explain how to make it all work: SUA High Steer TRE upgrade lessons front range can provide steering arms with the tie rod ends entering from the bottom.
 
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Happen to have a close-up picture or two of just the steering arm?



The one downside to this- is that Ben Wipple will get better steering response with the drag link flat. At some point, someone must have gotten tired of the way the truck drives with an angled drag link, and installed the double steering arm. If it were my truck (and I liked keeping a 4"+ lift), I would buy a high-steer kit and call it a day- in the process getting better steering arms, new heavy duty tie rod ends and clearance for the FZJ80 wheels.

This thread seems to explain how to make it all work: SUA High Steer TRE upgrade lessons front range can provide steering arms with the tie rod ends entering from the bottom.
I am entirely content with the set-up when my 18" wheels are on there. All I really want is to make these 16" FZJ80 wheels work bc they have the studded snow tires that I want for winter (live in Sun Valley, ski town). I tried some spacers from the local shop here and the lockout hub did not fit them so it looks like the cheapest and most logical/safe would be to put the 1" bolt on spacers that you suggested earlier. Question about that though, do I have to buy 4 or would 2 be fine since it is only the tie rod that is making contact?
 
There's nothing fundamentally wrong about having the front track wider than the rear.
The BMW Isetta is one obvious example. I believe that some F! cars do it as well.
Give it a try - somewhere where you can test out the handling safely.
 
Since the Fj60 was DESIGNED for steel wheels, they don't have the longest wheel studs. Those alloy wheels I am sure take up a lot of thread space. Before recommending a 1/4" wheel spacer over a 1", I'd want to know how many threads your lugnuts have RIGHT NOW.

Best

Mark
 
Since the Fj60 was DESIGNED for steel wheels, they don't have the longest wheel studs. Those alloy wheels I am sure take up a lot of thread space. Before recommending a 1/4" wheel spacer over a 1", I'd want to know how many threads your lugnuts have RIGHT NOW.

Best

Mark

Mark- don't all 80 series wheels use a shank style lug nut? I know my lx450 wheels do, and those lug nuts have tons of thread engagement, even with 60-series wheel studs.
 
Mark- don't all 80 series wheels use a shank style lug nut? I know my lx450 wheels do, and those lug nuts have tons of thread engagement, even with 60-series wheel studs.

I have NO idea what 80 series wheels use or don't use. I am going by all the troubles I've had over the years with porrly fitted alloy wheels on early cruisers.
 
I have NO idea what 80 series wheels use or don't use. I am going by all the troubles I've had over the years with porrly fitted alloy wheels on early cruisers.

This is exactly why I like to use factory Toyota wheels. They use a shank style lug that goes into the wheel, allowing for just as much thread engagement as steel wheels. (the shank style lug is the one on the left)

lc-lugs-jpg.511778
 
I hate those spacers. Every time I have run them, I have had it move around, causing the lug nuts to loosen or snap off.

Since those 80-series wheel have 4.5" of backspacing, I would recommend running a (much safer) 1" spacer to get them back to a stock-like 3.5" of backspacing.

140001-1-KIT_ID.jpg


https://www.trail-gear.com/TG/Wheel_Spacers/p/_3338.aspx
Ended up ordering these. hopefully they do the trick. any suggestions for install other than anti-freeze?
 

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