fooldall1
Handy Enthusiast
Everyone using some used engine oil to grease the threads a bit, and using proper torque specs?
Ticking time bomb TICK TICK TICK: Spark plugs Alert Alert Alert! (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter 2001LC
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Aaah I'h not heard using oli on the threads at all.. some dielectric grease on the inside boot I'h heard. and I think the torque spec was 17 ft/lbs. I am sure someone will correct me.
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I don’t put anything on the threads. IMHO, I don’t believe it’s necessary. I torqued mine to 18 ft/lbs. I’m going to check them in the spring. That’ll be about 30k since changing them.
don't do it - torque specs are all based on 'dry' surfaces
I thought the spark plug torque spec was 13 ft lbs
94SRUNNER
GOLD Star
I think that is factory, but if you follow this thread you will find that the 2UZ has an issue with plugs backing out. It has been found that torqueing them at ~15-18ft-lbs helps. I run about 17ft-lbs and check them every 6-months.
- Thread starter
- #287
Spec is 13Ft-lbf. I like @dace voit use higher torque spec. I go with 18ft-lbf. Does it help, IDK yet. It will take years before we know, as need to see them come back for spark plug service. The higher torque spec comes from Denso. They've web page gives different specs. They also say if thread lubricated, reduce torque.
Worst thing we can do is add anti-seize. What happens is: As plugs walk out, the stuff cooks in threads clogging/freezing spark plugs in heads. It may than stop the walking out. But getting those plugs out, is supper hard. I learned the hard-way. Have now seen a few 4.7L with anti-seize on the Denso spark plugs. It's a real PITA.
Walking out, is related to cooling cycles. A typical DD of 10 cold start per week. 35K to 50K miles is where we tend to hear cold start "tick" (sound like exhaust leak tick) 90K to 130K is where we get tick after warm up. That after warm up "tick", is the red alert!
Worst thing we can do is add anti-seize. What happens is: As plugs walk out, the stuff cooks in threads clogging/freezing spark plugs in heads. It may than stop the walking out. But getting those plugs out, is supper hard. I learned the hard-way. Have now seen a few 4.7L with anti-seize on the Denso spark plugs. It's a real PITA.
Walking out, is related to cooling cycles. A typical DD of 10 cold start per week. 35K to 50K miles is where we tend to hear cold start "tick" (sound like exhaust leak tick) 90K to 130K is where we get tick after warm up. That after warm up "tick", is the red alert!
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fooldall1
Handy Enthusiast
Never once had any issues with Denso plugs and coils with a drop of oil from the dipstick on the threads spread with the finger and torqued to 13ft/lbs.. May be, it's un-needed but I've never once had an issue with a frozen plug using this method (an old mechanic's trick I was told). not a LOT of oil, just a touch onto the dipstick and rubbed across the threads with a finger. Seems to work ok, as I have never had any issues when employing this method. But it may be snake-oil (so to speak), but it made sense when I was told to do that as SOP. Not once in my 5 years owning this vehicle has a plug backed out or became loose.
YMMV.
YMMV.
- Thread starter
- #289
Drop of oil is fine, and some old plugs threads are very dry. A bit of oil not worst idea. But typically not needed. Oiled and torquing to 13ft-lbf. Your actually at ~ 19ft-lbf. It's the anti-seize that we see issues with.
I'm curous as to how many miles on your plugs now (in 5 years), and how you know they're not backing out?
Denso:
Note: The installation torque values shown above apply to new spark plugs without lubricating the threads. If threads are lubricated, the torque value should be reduced by approximate 1/3 to avoid overtightening.
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94SRUNNER
GOLD Star
I was curious about this too? @fooldall1 do you check the plug torque at some time or mileage interval.
fooldall1
Handy Enthusiast
Usually, I check at each oil change as maintenance SOP. I remove each coil and check for malformation and visually inspect each plug for cracks, visual signs of excessive gap, etc. As a measure of SOP, I also will proactively replace all coils and plugs at 60-70k miles of use. So, to answer your question, roughly I will check each 10-12k miles and replace at 60. In terms of the removal and inspection- it's mostly "feel" as I remove it. They're always consistent in feel, maybe a bit tight in feel once in a long while, but never have any issues. Not terribly expensive and gives me peace of mind.
I will sometimes go longer than 15k miles between oil changes (drain/fill) because I use Mobil1 Extended Perf and the M1-209 filter (larger). Some may balk at this but i feel it's been working well and the engine oil is dirty at 15k but never terrible. The detergents do their job well.
That said, when I first bought the truck, the coils and plugs were all brand mismatched; and more than once in the first 6 months of ownership I had been forced off the road because a cheap old coil had failed. So, I have decided to perform the above and have never had a single issue after using DENSO coils and DENSO plugs. This has been the case over the past 82k miles and ~5years of ownership.
In my "kit" in the truck is ALWAYS a spare plug and coil- just in case (and the ODB-II reader and required tools) one fails- because, well.. sh*t breaks sometimes, even Denso.
Hope this answers your question(s).
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Want to see what worse-case scenario looks like. Plug blew out. This was #4. 2006 LC with 140,000. I have had it 15,000 and not checked plugs. Pay attention if you hear a tick:
@SlowBuild Did you Time-Sert? How has it worked out. I'm considering my options now.
@SlowBuild Did you Time-Sert? How has it worked out. I'm considering my options now.
My son's 2004 LC blew out #5 Spark Plug at 230K miles in December.
Took it to a respected shop in Charlotte and they said they needed to pull the heads too - for $2,500 est.
They searched around for a used head and could not find one.
Then they installed a TimeSert or Helicoil - not sure which - for $600.
The LC is running great today so one should be OK with a repair like this.
Took it to a respected shop in Charlotte and they said they needed to pull the heads too - for $2,500 est.
They searched around for a used head and could not find one.
Then they installed a TimeSert or Helicoil - not sure which - for $600.
The LC is running great today so one should be OK with a repair like this.
What is the tick noise you describe?
I too am running the Detroit Axle steering rack with no issues, nice to know someone else has had good experience with it. (saw your sig line).
A tick noise is hard to describe but think light tapping that changes with RPMs. In my case the noise only started to be audible this day it failed. But about 1 month and not too many miles ago I had a CYL4 misfire, pulled the coil - which had a big crack - put in a spare and the misfire went away. Too bad I did no think to check the plug at that time.
- Thread starter
- #297
Timesert install, while heads is on block. Is playing Russia roulette with compression. With 7 live rounds in 8 round cylinder! I've run compression test on two 4.7L with them. Both failed and dropping. They still run okay!
Timesert Issue is, metal shavings dropping into cylinder during install procedure.
Timesert Issue is, metal shavings dropping into cylinder during install procedure.
I was wondering how one handles metal shavings falling into the combustion chamber during a timesert or helicoil install... Is the compressions issues caused by the debris or it compression lost due to the timesert/ helicoil?
Set TDC so that cylinder valves are closed. Drill and tap in small increments with plenty of grease on bit/tap to catch shavings. Small increments allow to clean grease and not heat tips (which would have grease flow) Have a long thin air extension to blow out fully after insert done. Most likely a local experienced shop will helicoil mine in the next few weeks. I will post follow-up.
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I wonder if a Vacuum Cleaner would work well - especially if used with a small hose attachment.
An Endoscope Camera would allow one to look down in the Cylinder hole to see if there is any debris.
I've watched some Youtube videos on doing this task and I think I would tackle it myself if I have
to deal with it again.
An Endoscope Camera would allow one to look down in the Cylinder hole to see if there is any debris.
I've watched some Youtube videos on doing this task and I think I would tackle it myself if I have
to deal with it again.
