Builds The YotaMD Build - Cypress (1 Viewer)

[suprarx7nut]

Intro Video done and posted!


Update on rig: it's in the shop for new windshield, tint, clear bra. Working hard to preserve it!

 

[dwell]

loved the video!

 

[suprarx7nut]

loved the video!

Thanks! This one was probably a bit dry for some folks, but it'll only get more interesting from here out as we add all the fun stuff!

 

[phatdragon]

Nice build, the rear bumper turned out great with the color matched wings.

 

[Lonegrasshopper]

Thanks! This one was probably a bit dry for some folks, but it'll only get more interesting from here out as we add all the fun stuff!

Loved it! For me, with an '06 with some similar issues, the wobbly license plate holder and the same side window trim cracks. I am guessing these are common? How did you get the licenses plate holder off? I have the wobble on the drivers side too. I can see it's not fully attached.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Loved it! For me, with an '06 with some similar issues, the wobbly license plate holder and the same side window trim cracks. I am guessing these are common? How did you get the licenses plate holder off? I have the wobble on the drivers side too. I can see it's not fully attached.

For the license trim piece, take off the flip down panel between the floor and the lower tailgate. remove the license plate and then remove the carpet board thing that covers the inside of the lower tailgate. You'll want to use trim removal tools. It's easy to remove it with trim tool, but if you use a screwdriver or your hands you'll just rip out all the snaps. The snaps sit in a cardboard panel, so you really have to be careful where you lift.

Then you'll have access to the little barbed snaps that hold that license garnish in place. Use a screwdriver, long pliers or your own skinny hand/fingers to squeeze the snaps to release the panel. Be careful here as most the snap retainers in the license trim piece will be near failure. Be a little too brute here and you'll have zero good snap retainers left before you even get it off.

Ultimately, it's a terribly weak part to be on these vehicles. Probably one of the biggest let downs in the body/interior of the LX. I think my fix will hold up for a while, but eventually it'll fail, I'm sure.

 

[Kabanstva]

Just letting you know I installed your Blue Sea switch bracket yesterday to use as my winch disconnect. Took about a half hour including the time to make an extra 2 gauge cable for the switch to function.

Super impressed with the bracket and how quickly you were able to deliver it. This thing is super strong but weights next to nothing and fitment was 100% OEM into the engine bay! Thank you!

 

[suprarx7nut]

Just letting you know I installed your Blue Sea switch bracket yesterday to use as my winch disconnect. Took about a half hour including the time to make an extra 2 gauge cable for the switch to function.

Super impressed with the bracket and how quickly you were able to deliver it. This thing is super strong but weights next to nothing and fitment was 100% OEM into the engine bay! Thank you!

The benefits of carbon fiber in a hollow structure! Super light and super strong.

That material and printer are just amazing. I can't wait to make more and more parts out if it. I'm constantly looking for excuses.

Glad you like it!

 

[Kabanstva]

Yeah man for sure! I got 3 of your key fobs over the years and have yet to install them haha. I think that’s next on my list! Keep up the great work!

 

[suprarx7nut]

Got some news from the glass installer. Not good (but not surprising). I'll probably make a separate thread on this as I think it deserves a very concise PSA for all 100 owners, perhaps something owners can refer shops to.

Previous glass install (with the PO) was disgraceful. Wish I knew what shop it was.

-5 new holes were drilled on each side. (Should be 4 factory holes, I have 9 now)
-Not all of the drilled holes were used. Some were completely blank (hello rust catalyst).
-no rivets used at all (~4 screws used total instead of 8 rivets)
-trim glued into place.
-large rust patch eating away at A-pillar in at least one spot, presumably from untreated and exposed steel from shoddy workmanship on previous install.

Now it's a full-on body restoration job. Holes need to be welded shut and treated, rust ground away, primed and painted, etc...

Do not let any shop use screws on your windshield install under any circumstance. This is the potential result.

 

[aging fleet]

Such a pain, but at least you have the opportunity to take care of it before the rust gets too bad.

 

[Kabanstva]

Sorry to see this man. So many horror stories with windshield replacements. I personally went through this with my old Sienna and my brother's car so I know how much of a pain it can be. Who will be doing the install now? I am curious how someone goes about finding a truly capable installer because every company will tell you they know what they're doing, etc. but I bet it's a very small percent that actually care to do a good job. Most places will just sell the job and send out incompetent, low skill, low pay workers to do this who could care less where they drill holes or where they cut your paint.

 

[Lonegrasshopper]

Hmmm... you know, I think we are approaching this wrong. When I purchased my Cruiser, it had a cracked windshield, and the dealer paid to have it replaced. This was not its first windshield. The previous one was screwed in, but no rust or leaks. The installer filled all the holes with the “goop” and made sure it was sealed up when he was done.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Such a pain, but at least you have the opportunity to take care of it before the rust gets too bad.

And hopefully, it'll all be covered under the windshield replacement. That's the decision sitting in limbo now.

Sorry to see this man. So many horror stories with windshield replacements. I personally went through this with my old Sienna and my brother's car so I know how much of a pain it can be. Who will be doing the install now? I am curious how someone goes about finding a truly capable installer because every company will tell you they know what they're doing, etc. but I bet it's a very small percent that actually care to do a good job. Most places will just sell the job and send out incompetent, low skill, low pay workers to do this who could care less where they drill holes or where they cut your paint.

Extreme Autoworks in Lakewood, CO is doing it. They're a tint, PPF, glass, PDR shop. I called somewhere between 8 and 15 shops one day. Almost every shop either said:

A. We try not to do any of the luxury brands, but we recommend you try XYZ across town.

or

B. Yes, our techs are certified for every specific make and model and our work is guaranteed for life. I then explain I'm concerned about potential corrosion issues in the future if it's not done right and they say "Oh, well we would just be covering the glass itself. Body damage would not be covered."

It was honestly really frustrating. Aside from Extreme, nobody had a clue and nobody gave a damn. I didn't get the sense that ANY of the shops I talked to had prior experience with the 100 and it's uniqueness, nor that they would use anything other than whatever parts came in the generic kit for the car. Some shops would even blurt out the pricing for their service before we'd even started chatting. That was a dead giveaway to stay away. But Extreme had the most "real" approach to it. I spoke with the owner when I called (good sign #1) and his talk was all about doing it the right way and he was receptive to my pedantic demands. When I mentioned the whole rivet thing his response was something like, "Sure. We've got rivet guns and if we don't have the right tool, we buy it. We're not cutting any corners on any job."

When I dropped it off, we went over the car and pulled back the trim cover strip to reveal the screws and nastiness. He seemed familiar with the trim fastening method and understood the concern around the screws right away.

Hmmm... you know, I think we are approaching this wrong. When I purchased my Cruiser, it had a cracked windshield, and the dealer paid to have it replaced. This was not its first windshield. The previous one was screwed in, but no rust or leaks. The installer filled all the holes with the “goop” and made sure it was sealed up when he was done.

I think that's a potential fix once it's already screwed (pun!). The best method, by far, is to just use the right tools and parts from the beginning. Once you've got corrosion started and steel exposed, it's a tough game. Even if it's welded up correctly, you can't replicate the OEM dipped corrosion inhibitors. And you can't get those holes flat and true to seal against the rivet. My hope is that the shop I've got the car at does it right, however they see fit, and minimizes the risk down the road. Thankfully, being in Colorado the overall rust risk is low. My skin might crack from the lack of humidity, but my cars won't rust too easily!

 

[suprarx7nut]

Update on glass: AllState has agreed to cover OEM glass, mouldings and 3.3 hrs labor. They have rejected the repairs to the body to correct the previous mis-installation. Since it occurred before my ownership and wasn't done while covered under Allstate, I can see their point.

I'm waiting to hear back form the shop (closed Mondays) to see what they estimate for the work required that's not covered by insurance.

So far, I'm feeling good about it, but that may change if the shop comes back with a huge estimate for the body work. Hopefully it's a few hundred bucks. I'm also tempted to have the shop install the windshield and do whatever priming and rust removal is needed there, leave off the side trim and let me handle any paintwork and trim install.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Alright, update for today: I miss my 100!

After hours of back and forth with insurance and the shop and massive miscommunication among insurance and the shop, we have a plan.

The body work including welding, rust remediation and paintwork is coming in around $2,200 -$2500. AllState stepped up to cover nearly half of that due to the ambiguous communications that led to the shop and AllState having different ideas on what was covered and some work already being completed. The shop agreed to not charge for some of the extra labor required due to the previous install's ridiculous use of urethane. I agreed to cover the remaining cost for welding/rust/paint.

I *think* I'll end up out of pocket $1100 +/- $200 to get new Lexus glass, new trim and all the associated fix work to unf*#& the previous glass install. Not terrible. But not cheap.

Of course the end result is what matters so I'll update with extensive coverage on the final result. One concession I made is I asked for the shop to not blend the paint to reduce the bill. I may have some hard lines of base/clear. I'm ok with that. If it's visible, I can address that in my home booth in the future if needed.


Lesson learned: improper (but not so bad it leaks) windshield replacement on the 100 can lead to thousands of $$$ in damage. Qualify your shop and ensure their warranty covers body damage (SAFELITE DOES NOT).

 

[suprarx7nut]

Got maxtrax installed and found some terrible new problems.

Reason #62 why you should never silicone glue anything to the roof of your luxury SUV... Ugh. Time to grind, prime, base and clear a large portion of the roof. Somebody slap the previous owner for me.

 

[TheForger]

☹Damn prepping the area in those channels is gonna be a pain, what was previously glued there??

 

[suprarx7nut]

☹Damn prepping the area in those channels is gonna be a pain, what was previously glued there??

A flexible solar panel that thankfully died. I decided to leave it on and use it, even though I hated the silicone. It then broke somehow so I'm installing a new rigid panel on the rack now and wanted to get the silicone'd one off. Looks like I made the right call, just wish I didn't have yet another paint project to tackle...

 

[ramangain]

There is no solvent which can break the silicone loose to avoid the manual labor of removing it with tools?