Builds The YotaMD Build - Cypress (5 Viewers)

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There is no solvent which can break the silicone loose to avoid the manual labor of removing it with tools?

I'm not worried about removing the silicone. I mean, it's going to be really annoying, but that's fine. The truly painful parts is going to be grinding away all the bubbling paint. It's hard to tell in the pics, but there is a texture underneath the paint on ALLLLLLLLLLL the surface under that damn solar panel. ALLLLLLL that metal is showing corrosion and all the paint needs to be stripped, re-primed, re-based and re-cleared. I can DIY thankfully, but for a shop to do this would probably be yet another multi-thousand dollar repair bill due to previous owner/mechanic negligence/laziness/ignorance.
 
Uh. This qualifies as .50 cal to the head of the previous owner.

I'm starting to sound like Rambo acts.
 
Well, lots of sanding on the roof of the LX happening today, but nothing exciting to share via pictures yet. Meanwhile, here's the old 99 all cleaned up and ready for sale at 281k.


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Lots of updates to chronicle, but here's some eye-candy on the new Air Down Gear Up SS1 Beauty Panels and drawer dividers.

Also got my ARB fridge covered with a series 2 transit cover. Hides most the adhesive residue from the PO.

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Baller
 
@suprarx7nut - I'm middway through this same sway-bar bushing/link replacement project (about the 50th project on an '06 LX refurb as well, acquired last year). I am 90% of the way done and no issues encountered so far replacing front/back links, stabilizer bushings, etc - until it came time to squeeze bushings into rear sway bar, I cannot for the life of me get them in. You mentioned using dishsoap on the video, any other tricks? Just seems to make it like handling a wet bar of soap. Thanks in advance.
 
@suprarx7nut - I'm middway through this same sway-bar bushing/link replacement project (about the 50th project on an '06 LX refurb as well, acquired last year). I am 90% of the way done and no issues encountered so far replacing front/back links, stabilizer bushings, etc - until it came time to squeeze bushings into rear sway bar, I cannot for the life of me get them in. You mentioned using dishsoap on the video, any other tricks? Just seems to make it like handling a wet bar of soap. Thanks in advance.
Dishsoap is awesome. I was able to do one side by hand, the other side I had to use some channel locks. You could try to use a c-clamp, but I wasn't able to do it with just two hands. If you've got a willing neighbor/spouse/child around to hold something a c-clamp is probably the best way to get those in. Dishsoap is key, though. Lube is good.
 
For the license trim piece, take off the flip down panel between the floor and the lower tailgate. remove the license plate and then remove the carpet board thing that covers the inside of the lower tailgate. You'll want to use trim removal tools. It's easy to remove it with trim tool, but if you use a screwdriver or your hands you'll just rip out all the snaps. The snaps sit in a cardboard panel, so you really have to be careful where you lift.

Then you'll have access to the little barbed snaps that hold that license garnish in place. Use a screwdriver, long pliers or your own skinny hand/fingers to squeeze the snaps to release the panel. Be careful here as most the snap retainers in the license trim piece will be near failure. Be a little too brute here and you'll have zero good snap retainers left before you even get it off.

Ultimately, it's a terribly weak part to be on these vehicles. Probably one of the biggest let downs in the body/interior of the LX. I think my fix will hold up for a while, but eventually it'll fail, I'm sure.
@suprarx7nut what shape/style trim tool to get the carpet piece off?
need to get into that space. thx m8!
 
@suprarx7nut what shape/style trim tool to get the carpet piece off?
need to get into that space. thx m8!


I use plastic ones kind of like that. I like the real wide one on the right. The important part is just getting the pry force right on the tabs. You *can* do that with a simple screwdriver, but having those big plastic tools increases your margin for error - AKA you can be a little more sloppy before things get ruined.
 
Working on setting this up now. This is a new finish option from Air Down Gear Up on the SS1. Charcoal Ash. Beautiful finish that adds protection and highlights the wood's natural grain.

I'm thinking this time around I'll do a single drawer and a drawer fridge. The 50 qt ARB is awesome, but it's just huge. Losing a little bit of drawer space, but being able to have a compact fridge in there all the time might be worth the sacrifice.

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that Charcoal Ash finish looks great. Big improvement over the bare material.
Thanks, very much agreed. Looks nicer than the furniture in my house, haha.

A few more teasers. Realizing now I didn't get a pic of the drawer back installed.

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Flushed AHC fluid yesterday. Followed the @PADDO method and got it done in 60-90 minutes. Lots of that time was pulling nearly 2 liters out of the reservoir with my syringe/tube. Probably would have been 20 minutes faster using a normal baster.

It took me a while to get the accumulator to bleed any significant fluid. I had the temp sensor disconnected initially and that seems to have prevented the accumulator from filling. Either that or I just didn't wait long enough. After hooking up techstream and the temp sensor, I watched the accumulator fill then it bled about 250mL of fluid.

Also of note, my front dampers bled very little fluid. Rears bled maybe 500ml each, front only 100 or so.

Gradation test shows ~11-12 gradations. Globes are 43k miles and 6 years old.

Old AHC fluid will be sent out to Blackstone to see if they see anything of concern.

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Syringe used to pull fluid very effectively (albeit slowly) from reservoir:
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Old fluid:
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New fluid:
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Fluid when I stopped bleeding (slightly cleaner than when I started and a tint of red). I plan to bleed again and install new bleeders and caps and I hope that'll get the fluid closer to "fresh":
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Also ordered wheels! Bronze Winrace S from Braid. 17x8 ET40. Should be here for installation in the spring. Now to decide on tires....
 
Also ordered wheels! Bronze Winrace S from Braid. 17x8 ET40. Should be here for installation in the spring. Now to decide on tires....

What is the weight on those? Specs look perfect.

295/70's only because I want to confirm my suspicions that they'll fit perfectly :) Same height as the venerable 275/70r18's but obviously wider and with more sidewall.
 
What is the weight on those? Specs look perfect.

295/70's only because I want to confirm my suspicions that they'll fit perfectly :) Same height as the venerable 275/70r18's but obviously wider and with more sidewall.
That's my ideal size!

Now the question is KO2 or Ridge Grappler?

*edit, didn't see the weight question. I think 28 lbs per wheel. They're heavy. Built for strength, not weight savings, haha.
 
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