The World's Tightest Bolt (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 20, 2023
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377
Location
Eastern Idaho
So, my first timing wrestling with the 1HD-T crankshaft pulley / harmonic balancer bolt. It's kicking my ass.

I tried bumping the starter; disconnect fuel cutoff solenoid, long breaker bar. Starter doesn't have the guts to break it lose.

I then proceeded to snap my SST #09330-00021 in half doing it the way the factory manual recommended.

Thoughts? Suggestions?
 
Any mates got a big ass 18V impact wrench?
 
Having done this job twice.
Once one the side of the road in a snowstorm between Revelstoke and Roger's Pass with the tools I had on board....got me home 4000km away.
Pull the rad, batteries and whatever.
You can lock in low up against a solid object, go to a big truck tire shop and get a huge torque wrench.
Put it back together with the best loctite and torque to specs.
 
Having done this job twice.
Once one the side of the road in a snowstorm between Revelstoke and Roger's Pass with the tools I had on board....got me home 4000km away.
Pull the rad, batteries and whatever.
You can lock in low up against a solid object, go to a big truck tire shop and get a huge torque wrench.
Put it back together with the best loctite and torque to specs.

I'm pulling everything off right now. I kind of came to the same conclusion as you.

Interesting enough, the "Gregory's" aussie manual says to jam a prybar into the inspection port to stop up your flywheel ring gears.
😆

I've got a buddy coming over with his air tank and 1/2 impact. I think it's good for about 750ft/lb loosening.
 
I don’t have any direct experience with them, but I’ve heard that weighted impact sockets really help too.
 
On a side note.... any of you 80 series folks. I need to turn up a factory non-EGR 1HDFT crossover pipe.

I'm sure someone has ripped one off for an intercooler. I tried classifieds but haven't had much luck
:cry:
 
I wrestled with one on a 2jz engine recently. I bought the car cheap because the mechanic chip couldn’t get the crankshaft pulley bolt out. I went through 3 breaker bars before I figured it out.

For anyone else that ever wrestles with this.


Step 1: buy a new bolt from Toyota.
Step 2: cut a t or x in the head of the stuck bolt to relieve tension.
Step 3: unthread bolt by hand.
 
or heat up the bolt with an oxy-fuel torch. that always works.
 
Someone on here made a plate to help with getting that HB bolt off. I bought the plate and will probably tackle this job when the water pump and timing belt need to be done again. I don’t remember whom made/sold the plate.
 
Someone on here made a plate to help with getting that HB bolt off.

The big advantage of having the plate/SST is that you save a lot of time in disassembly/assembly. The plate "tool" is thin enough to fit in between your front steering damper/support, and brace against the frame rails on either side.

I have now parted with the last of my Hilux with the 3L engine, but with those engines you must remove the harmonic balancer and crankshaft bolt when performing timing belt/water pump routine maintenance. The SST was more than up to the task, and I have removed and re-torqued many of them. That being said, we are talking about 173ft/lb for the 3L engine vs. 365 ft/lbs on a 1HD-T. I was surprised that the factory service tool was the same stainless-steel arm, with a different attachment for the pulley.

I will post a picture of the tool when I pick it up from the machine shop, and report back on how it does with re-torquing. On all the 3L crank bolts, I used Loctite 242, I plan to do the same with 1HD-T. I may invest in a longer 1/2 breaker bar, I think a 4ft bar will fit under the truck.

As a last resort I have now bought that Dewalt 20v impact, which was on sale at Lowes. Tool #DCF900, allegedly it is good for 1400ft/lbs of breakaway torque, which I have no way to test, but it sure made short work of that crank pulley bolt.
 
Had a similar experience not on the LC but with the axle nuts on my Supra, just couldn't get them to break loose with the air impact even with heat (~800ft/lbs breakaway torque). Borrowed a big Dewalt impact with the same 1400ft/lbs and they came off fairly easy, amazing tool.
 
I made a tool kind of like this (not my picture, but right idea). I made it four feet long. I have a four foot breaker bar too that is 1/2" drive. Easy Peasy.

20130604_181100_zps6f262406.webp
 
Recently used air and battery impact on a #36 crank pulley nut, spray and soak, and big extension, hammering the extension, and bumping starter (never again) and heating but not red heat, but only this tool with a mighty smash with heavy hammer got it loose like nothing, there was no loctite.

pulled so the engine wants to go to opposite direction and then three taps with 2500 gram hammer and done, worth every cent and to me now the only way (or spend a few days trying, it was a tip on an RV forum and 5 pages about this famous locked Fiat 280 crank pulley)
Ring strike wrench
1756163824436.webp


I have spend hours looking at the bastard:
1756164850927.webp
 
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I would try something like this to avoid disassembling the front clip:


Features. Ideal for Honda crankshaft bolt removal. Generates up to 600 ft. of force which exceeds most 0.5 in. drive impact guns. Bi-directional force loosens or tightens bolts. Saves repair time - no need to remove parts to access the crankshaft bolt or harmonic balancer pulley. Use where impact guns wont fit. Impact force shocks bolts loose. No compressed air required for operation. Use with impact sockets
 

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