Builds The Rushing Turdle (1 Viewer)

[roadstr6]

I had a hose to pop as I pulled into my neighborhood last Thursday. Full engine hose down and steam clean with large green toxic liquid spill in the driveway. When everything cooled down I investigated the issue and determined that Murphy's Law is alive and well and working in my 60. The offending hose would have to be the little piece of crap hose from the water pump going down to the hard line that eventually makes it's way down to the oil cooler...you know...the one that is buried behind the other coolant hoses, the fuel line, the alternator and jammed right up next to the corner of the head. Yeah...that one. That little hose was as soft as a sponge. No telling when it was last changed. Well, it's all new now along with every other hose on the front side of the engine and a couple of heater hoses as well. I still have a couple more heater hoses to replace near the firewall but I'm fresh out of 5/8 hose. They'll have to wait. No big deal. What a huge PITA that busted hose was! Grrrrrrrr.....

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Oh man, that sucks. Lots has to come off to get to that little SOB. Might as well pull the radiator to make it easier since the system is already drained.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

So much easier when everything is off.... maybe it's time to rebuild something in that area.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Mine was so soft. Almost indecipherable that it was a hose at one time.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Ah oops. It's done. Good.

 

[Breitz6989]

@roadstr6

Can you post some photos of this I'm mid desmog and manifold PS pump change already a lot out of the engine would like to check this hose while it's all out.

Thanks

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Damn thing is about 2" long no joke.

 

[roadstr6]

@roadstr6

Can you post some photos of this I'm mid desmog and manifold PS pump change already a lot out of the engine would like to check this hose while it's all out.

Thanks

I'll try but it is already back together. It'll be hard to see at this point. Here is the diagram from the FSM. Part number 15777. The top one with the crook in it near the pump:

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

@Breitz6989 heres a pix of that mini section of hose. I just pulled the alt bracket off my truck to modify it for a cs130 and was able to get my phone in for a shot.
Second pic is just to show it's behind the larger hose off the WP.
GL. Lots of soapy water makes a huge difference slipping them on.

 

[roadstr6]

I was finally given the go-ahead to post some pics of the Turdle from the '16 ONSC Relic Run event.

This was a spectacular event and it will happen again June 9-11, 2017. The event is hosted by Olde North State Cruisers and it will be a weekend of camping and wheeling in Uwharrie National Forest, located in central North Carolina. Entry requires your Toyota to be pre-1990 vintage. Land Cruisers up to and including 62 series are good to go. More details on the '17 event will be forthcoming in the next couple of months here on MUd and in Toyota Trails. I believe we had between 20 and 25 vintage 'Cruisers in attendance last year. To see even more outstanding pics of this event, look here: 2016 Carolina Relic Run - Photography

The '16 Relic Run thread is here and gives some good information: Carolina Relic Run - April 15-17, 2016 A new thread will be created in the next couple of months for the upcoming event in June. Come out and enjoy a weekend camping with good people, good wheeling and cool old Toyotas.

 

[roadstr6]

I found a set of ARB side steps on Craigslist for a decent price. They are the NLA homely ones with the front fender protection bars that connect to the old style ARB front bumper. I have the new style bumper so I knew these would not work without modifications. I'm not a fan of the ugly fender piece anyway so I hacked them up and welded some tubing to make these steps into light / medium duty step sliders.

 

[roadstr6]

Test fit. Next will be priming, painting and final install. I plan to fab up a third mount point in the center to connect to the frame. I've got a little over $200 in these and my hope is that they will offer some protection as well as provide a step for the kids to get in and out more easily. Heck, having a step just might help me save what's left of the upholstery on the side of my driver's seat. Guess we'll see.

 

[roadstr6]

Oh yeah! Almost forgot...new bumper sticker!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I love those sliders. I have some drawn up I want to make. I found out I can get remnant pieces of tube from a metal place here in CT so that's my plan at some point and I found a local friends husband welds so I'm gonna see about cutting it all up and just bring it to him or him to my house to put the pieces together.
And the sticker, it's good. I need to give that movie a try again.

 

[Icantdrive55]

Thanks for this write up, Dave. I've given your recurve recipe a shot, but am having a hard time getting the truck restarted. I messed with the initial timing all day -- 7*, 4*, 9* BTDC---Nothing!. Down in your paragraph about timing you've set yours at 15-17*. Is that your base timing or your total timing? What did you use to first start yours?

 

[roadstr6]

My truck was originally set at 10 degrees before I pulled the distributor. I very carefully marked the position of my distributor in relationship to the closest point of the head with a sharpy. I also marked the exact location of my rotor in relationship to the head using a straight edge (ruler). That way I know I would re-install the distributor in exactly the position it was in before I removed it.

Once everything was back in place and the engine was fired up I set my timing to 15-17 degrees. That is my initial timing with the advance disconnected.

Your truck should start as long as it is anywhere close. How are you checking timing without starting the truck? Are you getting spark? Does the oil pressure climb when you attempt to start the truck? Did you get the plug wires back in the same position as before?

I have had several folks to respond to me via PM that have had great success with my el cheapo recurve. You had to have done something wrong. Either you did not put the diz back EXACTLY as it was before removal or maybe the gap inside the housing is set too far. Dropping a dizzy into these trucks is a little cumbersome. You will have to turn the rotor back a smidge so that as it drops in, the helical gear on the shaft advances the rotor to the exact point where it was before you removed it. If you don't do this your firing order will be off and chances are you will not be engaging your oil pump. You can do serious damage to the engine if the oil pump is not engaged. Be careful! Go back and check your work and let me know what you find. I'll try to walk you through it if you need help.

 

[Icantdrive55]

Thank you, Dave.

I'll try to answer your questions in close to the order you've asked them:

I wasn't as diligent as you were when I removed the distributor. My markings were limited to the dizzy position relative to the side of the push rod gallery. But I eyeballed the rotor position relative to the dizzy enclosure/head, figuring that as long as the rotor is coming up on the #1 cylinder and the hold down bolt at the base of the dizzy is toward the center of its range of travel, that it would fire and I could set timing with a timing light. In fact I had it running, set the timing at the BB and drove it for about an hour, but after I pulled into the driveway I couldn't get it restarted the next morning after it cooled down. While I had it running, I took a couple of turns up some local hills and found that it was a gutless wonder--less power than it had before the recurve, though I'm expecting better performance by properly setting the total timing. And that's when I started playing with the distributor thinking that there was still something amiss.

Setting timing when I first install the dizzy is to find TDC of the compression stroke and then move to the BB for 7* BTDC for starters. (Rather, not really start-ING.) I read in the FSM that the keyed slot in the oil pump is supposed to be at 35*, so I'm suspecting that is my problem--not getting the correct orientation when I seat the helical gear in the oil pump and winding up pointing closer to #4 than to #1. After multiple attempts at 7* pulling out the dizzy and reinserting it another gear cog over, I tried to come up with another timing configuration based on some of the other mud posts. (Timing in the mud vernacular doesn't distinguish between base timing and total timing.) Thanks for making the distinction between base timing and total timing. That helps.

I didn't remove any of the plug wires, except the #1 at the cylinder so I can find the compression stroke. After I put the distributor cap back in place, I make sure that I haven't displaced one inadvertently.

Since I live at 5,200 feet and want to drive this rig up to 7K or 8K feet and down to the Texas coast, I have it in my head that I want to reinstall the HAC and I think that is complicating things so I disconnected and plugged those vacuum lines with golf tees until I get it running right.

I'm not ready to give up on your recurve. As I said earlier, I've had this thing running since I put it back together. It's just a matter of getting it to start easily and run dependably.

This little project is going to sit until Friday--the first opportunity I have to dig in to it again. I'll keep you posted on my progress.

Thanks you,
George

 

[roadstr6]

My base timing estimate of 15 degrees is an estimate. On my rig timing is set with the BB at the bottom edge of the sight window or slightly below. I'd say that's at least 15. Maybe more like 18. I have a cheap gun so it doesn't tell me. Good luck and keep me posted.

 

[jawjatek]

I'll take one tonight but to be honest, I don't like how I did mine. I drilled the fender well and ran a bolt through. If I had it to do over I would just use the threaded hole that is already there under the corner of the seat...the one that the old lap belt mounts to. It is a lot less trouble to use what is there and I'm not a fan of drilling holes through the body if you don't have to...especially in a spot that is prime for water intrusion like a fender well.

I plan to eventually weld up those holes I drilled and re-use the original under seat mount points for my belts.

Hi, I have the same rear seat belt set for my FJ60 from seatbeltplanet.com, and mounting them now. I was wondering if you ever got around to this? EDIT: Never mind. I went back to look at your pics, and I see you left the original lap retractors in, and that is why you drilled a hole. I've removed my lap retractors (they were jammed anyway) so I will simply bolt the fixed end of the long belt where the lap retractor used to be.

I will also have to fish a nut up in there for the upper bolt, as my "87 does not already have them, dang the luck.

For the retractor mounting, was there a hole already there under the trim, or did you drill that as well? I have to pull all that trim and cover out anyway, to take a look and fish a nut up top from down there. The belts come with some right angle brackets and screws, etc, but no instructions. Not really sure what the brackets are for, kinda scratching my head...

Guess I should do a bunch of pics as well...

 

[roadstr6]

You are correct about my drilling the fender and not using the old retractor mount point. I should have just done that. I guess I had a brain fart. I did have to drill holes for the rear retractors. There is a section of sheet metal that is double thickness that I drilled. I put he bolt in from behind with the threads sticking out through the side trim card. I put on the retractor and the nut went on the outside. I was able to tighten the nut without the bolt spinning. It was tricky and I did have to modify the plastic cover on the new retractor a bit to make it all work. I did not use the angle brackets in the belt installation kit...only the bolts, nuts and washers. Good luck with your install!