Builds The Rushing Turdle (2 Viewers)

[roadstr6]

If you got rid of that sub you could gain some space too

Yah. PO installed the system. There are two giant amps under the rear seat as well. I personally would never have done a system in this truck but I must admit Pantera does sound mighty good when cranked to 11. I'll keep it for now.

 

[roadstr6]

So I pulled a few choice parts from a local '82 FJ60 that was being parted out. Out with the new and in with the old!

Before:

After:

Bling! These chrome center caps are NLA and I found them in surprisingly good shape. The later black ones are still available from Mr. T.

 

[slomoe]

like your platform set-up. i did something similar using 2x4 frame. made it tall enough so platform was over rear seat when seat was down, then flipped front seats forward and folded down pillow area of platform which was on a hinge -- ended up with a 7 ft bed. at 6.5'' perfect for me. slept like a baby surf-side on ocracoke island for a week. great vacation.

 

[roadstr6]

More parts scores. Earlier in this thread you will find that I modified my rear seat for headrests using some gray donor seats from an FJ62. I had to paint the gray headrests brown with vinyl paint to get a decent match with my brown interior. Well, I found two OEM brown headrests. Here you can see the difference between the painted and the ones from the local parts truck. OEM brown is on the right.

 

[roadstr6]

Most 60 owners know that the AC bezel can be a source of interior ugliness. They tend to crack and break and look ratty. Mine was no different. I found a decent bezel on the parts donor. It had some cracks but at least it was not missing pieces so I yanked it, epoxied the cracks from the back side, repainted the black sections and cleaned it all up. Here's what I had before. It had a section that was broken off and lost forever:

...and here's the new one all cleaned up and ready to go in:

Not perfect but a whole lot better!

 

[tgadd]

@roadstr6 - is it the 60 at H&H? Or another?

 

[roadstr6]

@roadstr6 - is it the 60 at H&H? Or another?

Scott, yeah. It's the one at H&H.

 

[roadstr6]

My OCD kicks in when it comes to little details. For example, the knob on my rear heater lever was missing. It drove me crazy because I knew I would never find one except on a parts truck. Well, guess what? My OCD is all better now!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

What kind of epoxy did you use? Fixin to do the same thing on Moonshine in the next week or so.

 

[gregnash]

Yeah I need to do the same thing to BeBe with the epoxy. Trying to think of a way to help reinforce the screw holes so they do not crack if you accidently over tighten.

 

[roadstr6]

Johnny, Greg,

I used this stuff:

It worked great. I scuffed the repair areas with a dremel and just gooped it on the back of the panel and used a popsicle stick to force it down into the cracks and crevices. I let it set up and dry for 24 hours and it was solid as a rock. I chose not to apply it on the front but I guess you could do that as well. If so, you'd want to sand it back down and paint the front of the panel though. I didn't have any paint that matched so I left the front as it was. I would also be afraid the paint would chip off eventually and look bad. The panel is molded in the color that shows. It is not painted from the factory except for the black relief areas around the inside.

I believe that an application of this product in the screw hole areas on the back of the panel will give it much more strength. It is not visible back there so you can apply as much as you want to build up the weak areas.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Solid. Going to pick some up, thanks Dave!!

 

[gregnash]

Solid. Going to pick some up, thanks Dave!!

Same... that will be on the agenda for when I have the panel off anyways to wire up the butt warmers.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Yeah I need to do the same thing to BeBe with the epoxy. Trying to think of a way to help reinforce the screw holes so they do not crack if you accidently over tighten.

I just don't over tighten them.

 

[roadstr6]

The last of the junk parts goodness:

Swiped the open/close eyeball vents to replace the two non-moving center vents in my 60. Open/closeX4!

 

[jfnall]

Notice in the first pic above that I did have to modify the plastic retractor housing cover by drilling a 1" hole to expose the mounting point. The way the cover is supposed to work is that you open it up, bolt everything down and then click it shut. Due to me needing to mount the retractor as low as possible to avoid interference with the seat back operation, I could not snap the cover back on once it was in place. I decided to drill the hole in the cover to allow access to the bolt, fold and click the cover in place and then tighten it down. The way I mounted these retractors was to drill holes in the sheet metal at the double thickness seam, also drilling a hole through my vinyl-covered card. Then I inserted the bolt and washer from behind. I held the end of the bolt as I snapped the interior card into place. The card held the bolt firmly enough that I was able to slip the retractor over it and thread on a lock washer and nut through the hole I drilled in the plastic cover. The bolt held tight and didn't try to spin as I tightened everything up.

Going back a little bit on this, but can you get a few better pics of the lower retractor and mount point? Inside and outside. The OECD way way back in the thread are pretty dark. I'm at this point in my build and trying to get a definitive mounting option for a rear retractable belt. I was lucky with the upper mount hole being threaded but the lower position has me scratching my head. I bought used 62 retractable belts but at the time of purchase I didn't realize they wouldn't bolt right up. Thanks.

 

[NCFJ]

A trick I learned when building RC airplanes is to use Mesh Drywall Tape cut into manageable strips layed into the epoxy you are using. Run it in a couple different directions and it works similar to fiberglass. Either way it is good to strengthen around bolt holes and along cracks and seams.

 

[roadstr6]

Going back a little bit on this, but can you get a few better pics of the lower retractor and mount point? Inside and outside. The OECD way way back in the thread are pretty dark. I'm at this point in my build and trying to get a definitive mounting option for a rear retractable belt. I was lucky with the upper mount hole being threaded but the lower position has me scratching my head. I bought used 62 retractable belts but at the time of purchase I didn't realize they wouldn't bolt right up. Thanks.

Here are a couple more pics of the mounted retractors. I don't have any more pics of the holes I drilled to mount them. I can't say that the 62 pieces will bolt in the same way.

I hope this helps!

 

[jfnall]

how about another picture of the other end of the mount, down lower on the fender. please...

 

[roadstr6]

I'll take one tonight but to be honest, I don't like how I did mine. I drilled the fender well and ran a bolt through. If I had it to do over I would just use the threaded hole that is already there under the corner of the seat...the one that the old lap belt mounts to. It is a lot less trouble to use what is there and I'm not a fan of drilling holes through the body if you don't have to...especially in a spot that is prime for water intrusion like a fender well.

I plan to eventually weld up those holes I drilled and re-use the original under seat mount points for my belts.