The Resurection of 'The Beast' (9 Viewers)

[Southeast Overland]

Leaking brake booster?

Haven't checked that. I'll search...

I monkeyed around (I really think that is a good term for my wrenching at the moment as I'm wandering pretty aimlessly) with the throttle linkage and carb a little ago. Cranked right off the bat without any choke - thanks to the JimC rebuild. (I love that.) Idled at about 700 - I had tinkered a bit with the idle screw last time the idle was high so that is why the idle was a bit off. I reset it to 650 and all appeared good. Revved the throttle a few times and idle went back to 650. I pushed the throttle linkage around and it was pretty tight, well for a 33 year old vehicle. I pulled up on the gas pedal and it the idle didn't drop but a bit. Checked for exhaust leaks and couldn't get much to happen with the starter fluid - I sprayed it everywhere around the intake manifold, exhaust manifold, carb base, and the donut gasket below the manifolds. Only got the same sliiiight response from the 5 cylinder area. Listened with a length of hose and didn't hear any one spot that sounded much different than any other.

Then I let it warm up...

The idle crept up, I revved the motor a few times and the idle stayed high around 1000...hmm... pulled up on the gas pedal and the idle dropped to around 650 but as soon as I let go of the gas pedal the idle went back up to around 1000.

Listened with the hose and I thought I heard an exhaust leak near the 1 cylinder but starter fluid didn't have any response.

Cut off the motor and let it sit about 20 minutes. Cranked the engine (was still warm) and same thing with the high idle and play in the throttle linkage.

I mean come on - I'm pretty sure the carb is good b/c JimC has his name on it, so that leaves the throttle linkage... and the dang throttle linkage is pretty darn simple... The exhaust leak appears to be minor too.

As soon as I get some more time which will probably be Sunday or Monday I am going to check my timing and valves. Trollhole set those for me so they shouldn't be off much if at all...

Argh... I really don't want to have to drive to ATL and pay ACC to fix this but good grief, I just want the dang Piggie to run right.

At least I have solidified my position as a banana mechanic. If I can't fix this there is no way I'll move to a !

 

[Trollhole]

Steve do you have the spring that attaches to the main throttle shaft?

Part # 67

If not I'd install one.

 

[Southeast Overland]

Steve do you have the spring that attaches to the main throttle shaft?

Part # 67

If not I'd install one.

got it - I'll see if I can get a stronger one from Ace.

 

[FJ40Jim]

How about spring #9? If the gas pedal is disconnected from the linkage, #9 should pick it up all the way against the rubber stop on the pedal. If #53 is out of adjustment, then the pedal could already be aginst the stop, causing the high idle issue.

When the high idle problem is occurring, diconnect the throttle linkage at the throttle arm.
Does the idle drop down to 600 (or whatever you want)?

If yes, then the pedal is holding up the idle.

If no, then adjust the idle speed screw on the carb to whatever you like (that's why it's adjustable).

 

[Southeast Overland]

How about spring #9? If the gas pedal is disconnected from the linkage, #9 should pick it up all the way against the rubber stop on the pedal. If #53 is out of adjustment, then the pedal could already be aginst the stop, causing the high idle issue.

When the high idle problem is occurring, diconnect the throttle linkage at the throttle arm.
Does the idle drop down to 600 (or whatever you want)?

If yes, then the pedal is holding up the idle.

If no, then adjust the idle speed screw on the carb to whatever you like (that's why it's adjustable).

#9 is there. I did spray a bit of white lithium grease on the springs in case there was a bit of rust somewhere or something else binding them up. Dunno if that helped or not.

Good call on #53 possibly being out of adjustment. I'll take the Pig out for a jaunt this weekend and get her nice and warm so she idles high - then disconnect the throttle linkage with her running and see what happens.

I'll look in the FSM to see if there is a spec to adjusting #53 - any tricks ya know?

I have played a bunch with the idle screw - I have it set at ~650 when cold, but it goes high when warm.

Thanks Jim.

 

[FJ40Jim]

No tricks. #53 is where the throttle linkage is adjusted. All vehicles should have provision for adjusting the throttle travel. Throttle linkage is adjusted so the pedal hits the floor simultaneously as the throttle body hits WOT.

 

[Southeast Overland]

Haven't been able to get anymore work done besides cleaning out the garage so I could pull the Pig in. Been busy running two new businesses.

But, since its been raining a ton lately the garage will allow me more time to work. Also need to seal up a few small rain leaks that allow the floorboards to get a bit of water after a heavy rain.

 

[Southeast Overland]

And check this $hit out - I put together a three ring binder FULL of receipts from the past 10 years on my Pig - and now I can't find it for the life of me. I think I left it at GSMTR...this $ucks...

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

have you had a chance to get you manifolds milled and faced? I'm having similar warm idle characteristics. One thing, not sure if starting fluid will help find an exhaust leak- intake yes, but exhaust not sure on. The manifold is pressurized and will not let fluids in but blow out stink instead- I think. I'm finding leaks on my exhaust at #1 and #6- after warmup. Going to do mill and spot face soon. My thinking is if I can "grow" an exhaust leak while getting up to temp, then I can prolly grow an intake one as well.

 

[PabloCruise]

OT Drift: what are your new businesses?

 

[Southeast Overland]

have you had a chance to get you manifolds milled and faced? I'm having similar warm idle characteristics. One thing, not sure if starting fluid will help find an exhaust leak- intake yes, but exhaust not sure on. The manifold is pressurized and will not let fluids in but blow out stink instead- I think. I'm finding leaks on my exhaust at #1 and #6- after warmup. Going to do mill and spot face soon. My thinking is if I can "grow" an exhaust leak while getting up to temp, then I can prolly grow an intake one as well.

I have not yet. The intake and exhaust were planed months agobut the bolt hole faces were not spot faced. I need to pull the manifolds and get the bolt hole faces spot faced but haven't have time yet.

OT Drift: what are your new businesses?

I started my own consulting firm (environmental and IT) first of July and my wife opened a gift store last week so we have been very busy. You can probably attribute both some what to the economy but we are paying bills so far and enjoying ourselves much more working for ourselves, but our bosses are slavedrivers...

 

[oldfj40]

Congrats on the businesses.

You've definitely got the best looking company rig in town.

Nice job.

 

[Southeast Overland]

While I finish chasing down the idle problem I need another distraction. I'm going to start designing a sleeping/storage platform in the back. I want to keep it simple as I have a M716 trailer that I'm going to fix up for long trips.

I want a simple system.
As low as possible to allow as much clearance when sleeping.
Tupperware tubs will slide underneath for storage.
Secure platform to bed so in case of a roll I won't get knocked upside the back of the head.

The rear seat will come out. I thought about making the platform hinged near the rear seat so I could leave the seat in but I've only ever had one person ride back there and it just gets used for storage which beats the heck out of it.

 

[Southeast Overland]

Took the Pig on 6 separate 1 hour trips lately on back highways where I can cruise at 45 to 55 for good stretches. No issues with engine stalling at speed anymore (whew). The motor runs pretty well but isn't a fan of cold temps or not being fully warmed up - fuel injection would be sooooo nice!

I do have to fix my manifold leak once and for all. Will be pulling the manifold as soon as I get time to have the bolt hole faces spot faced and will put on a Remflex gasket for good measure.

The last two trips the motor ran a little rougher than usual and then gave me a big stutter/back fire near the end of the last trip out of nowhere that about made me crap myself. Time to readjust the timing, valves, etc.

I luv driving my Piggie.

 

[Southeast Overland]

I pulled my manifolds this afternoon. When I took the gasket off I could see a few very small exhaust leaks and what might have been an intake leak - not sure if you can see those. The manifold surface that mates with the block was pretty flat but the other side where the bolt holes are was allllll uneven. I'm going to try and get them machined Monday.

I do need the little exhaust donut that goes between the exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe if anyone has one and could drop it in the mail tomorrow. From looking at my (recently new) one that I removed it seems to not be reusable.

I also have a Remflex gasket on the way that should put this intake leak to sleep.

After that I'm going to order some soundproofing from McMaster-Carr. It's getting good!

 

[FJ40Jim]

I do need the little exhaust donut that goes between the exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe if anyone has one and could drop it in the mail tomorrow. From looking at my (recently new) one that I removed it seems to not be reusable.

In stock at my local CarQuest-
brand: CARQUEST/AP EXHAUST
PN: 9026
Desc: Gasket

Should cost you less than $3.

After that I'm going to order some soundproofing from McMaster-Carr. It's getting good!

Got a description or a link?

 

[Southeast Overland]

In stock at my local CarQuest-
brand: CARQUEST/AP EXHAUST
PN: 9026
Desc: Gasket

Should cost you less than $3.


Got a description or a link?

Thanks Jim - I'll go to the local parts store and pick one up tomorrow. I didn't know if this was an OEM part only or not.

Here ya go on the sound proofing.

McMaster-Carr
36"x33.5' for $113.99
foil backing
0.047" thick (3/64") - might put double layer in some areas which would make it thicker than the first option with the foil backing
= $0.88 per sqft

IIRC it was ~ $116 delivered to my door. Its asphalt based and not butyl based but for the price and application I think I have a winner. I also talked to two MUD members who have used the same stuff with good results in very hot and cold temps.



ETA: the left (front) exhaust manifold horn can be pulled out by hand, very easily. Do the rings in there need to be replaced? I sprayed them liberally with PB Blaster awhile back hoping they would loosen/tighten up but no luck so far. I don't detect a leak when the Pig is running but as y'all know I am far from an expert.

 

[Southeast Overland]

My plans for next summer

I was just thinking (dangerous, I know) and I don't remember if I posted on this thread what I'm prepping for next summer.

The plans are to drive to the Upper Peninsula of Michigan next summer in the Pig. The wife will be with me (she is actually excited about this trip). There is a 5-day expedition to explore the back roads of the UP. The Pig will be returning to her old stompin' grounds for about a week!

The driving plans are to make it to East Lansing in a day (16 hours). We will spend a good bit of a day in East Lansing and the wife will get to go to her old gym (~300,000 sqft). In the afternoon we will drive into the UP and get a place to sleep near the bridge into the UP. The next two days or so we will explore the UP on our own before we link up with the expedition trip and drive with them for 5 days. The entire trip will probably take 12 days and cover around 3,000 miles, maybe more.

I'm hoping getting my intake leak fixed (underway) will fix my high idle. After that I am going to install the sound proofing I've been speaking of and a rear sleeping / storage platform and remove the rear seat.

Tis gonna be fun!

ETA - please check my ETA above (pasted below).

The left (front) exhaust manifold horn can be pulled out by hand, very easily. Do the rings in there need to be replaced? I sprayed them liberally with PB Blaster awhile back hoping they would loosen/tighten up but no luck so far. I don't detect a leak when the Pig is running but as y'all know I am far from an expert. The rear/right horn is TIGHT.

 

[Southeast Overland]

Well heck. As I was loading up my manifolds to take them to the machine shop to have spot faced I noticed what you see in the pic. Looks to me like the exhaust manifold is cracked and neither me nor the machine shop that did the ceramic coating caught it. In addition the ceramic coating on the exhaust manifold has come off and the manifold is rusting. I was going to sand the exhaust manifold and apply some high temp paint but now it looks like I might be going with headers - this is after I spent about $200 on labor and parts to rebuild the exhaust manifold. Should have gone with a new OEM unit or headers to start.

Any suggestions on headers?

 

[FJ40Jim]

Never seen a real crack in a 81-87 exh manifold. I have seen plenty of crack-appearing anomalies; usu. surface spalling.

Sometimes the swivel ends will swivel freely because the compression rings are stuck in the grooves. But the fit is still tight enough usu. that there is no noticeable leakage. Esp. if the swivel ends are pushed fully into the main manifold after the mounting bolts are installed finger tight.