The Resurection of 'The Beast' (1 Viewer)

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Looking for some sound deadening material for the floor of the Piggie. I've got to quiet her down b/c I have a road trip planned... :D

I'm trying to do this fairly cheaply b/c it really is a trail pig and not a showroom queen - so Second Skin, Dynamat etc are out of the question. Currently I don't have any sound deadening material in the Pig and it gets a bit loud at 55 mph. At 35 mph it is fine.

McMaster Carr has a few options that have had decent reviews on MUD.

McMaster-Carr
32"x54" sheets for $16.62
no foil backing
0.079" thick
= $0.72 per sqft

or

McMaster-Carr
36"x33.5' for $113.99
foil backing
0.047" thick (3/64") - might put double layer in some areas which would make it thicker than the first option with the foil backing
= $0.88 per sqft

I'm leaning towards the second option. One 36"x33.5' roll would give me 100.5 sqft. With that I could cover the front floorboards twice, under the front seat once, under the rear seat and rear cargo once, and maybe have enough to cover the roof once. I'll measure this weekend.

:cheers:
 
eventhough said:
Looking for some sound deadening material for the floor of the Piggie. I've got to quiet her down b/c I have a road trip planned... :D

I'm trying to do this fairly cheaply b/c it really is a trail pig and not a showroom queen - so Second Skin, Dynamat etc are out of the question. Currently I don't have any sound deadening material in the Pig and it gets a bit loud at 55 mph. At 35 mph it is fine.

McMaster Carr has a few options that have had decent reviews on MUD.

McMaster-Carr
32"x54" sheets for $16.62
no foil backing
0.079" thick
= $0.72 per sqft

or

McMaster-Carr
36"x33.5' for $113.99
foil backing
0.047" thick (3/64") - might put double layer in some areas which would make it thicker than the first option with the foil backing
= $0.88 per sqft

I'm leaning towards the second option. One 36"x33.5' roll would give me 100.5 sqft. With that I could cover the front floorboards twice, under the front seat once, under the rear seat and rear cargo once, and maybe have enough to cover the roof once. I'll measure this weekend.

:cheers:
Click to expand...

Do these materials absorb water?

I would wonder about lining the doors backside of the outer layer and lining the inside of the roof (above the headliner) to make the biggest impact on noise...
 
PabloCruise said:
Do these materials absorb water?

I would wonder about lining the doors backside of the outer layer and lining the inside of the roof (above the headliner) to make the biggest impact on noise...
Click to expand...

No water absorption - its not an open cell foam.

People do line their doors and roof - I'm going to line the roof area.
 
yooper said:
Most of the noise in that Pig comes through the floor, tranny hump, and firewall in my experience...
Click to expand...

Yup - I'm going to put some on the roof to hopefully help with heat.

We've had some decent sun the past two days. I've checked my gas tank for pressure and haven't had any yet.

I'm thinking my problem with pressure build-up had to do with the check valve...

Also narrowed down my problem with the Pig returning to 650 rpm @ idle. I had a good bit of play in my throttle linkage that Trollhole originally pointed out to me. I've tightened that up as I posted a bit earlier but still had the problem...hmm... time to troubleshoot... everything seems tight - always starts at the correct idle (maybe a bit low but close)... sometimes returns to correct idle and sometimes doesn't... can't really get the idle to drop by pushing on the throttle linkage... but CAN get the idle to drop by pulling up on the gas pedal. Looks to me like something is binding between the gas pedal and carb...

:cheers:

:cheers:
 
Got some more work in tonight. Sprayed most of the throttle linkage with white grease and the problem with idle not returning to ~650 is a bit better I think... didn't get to take it for a spin as I spent some time chasing down other problems.

I'm uploading a vid, more like audio b/c it was very dark outside, of my F motor - my angry sewing machine. Since I'm faaaar from an expert on motors what do y'all think about how my motor sounds. I read that it should sound like an 'angry sewing machine' and I think its about right. I pulled my valve cover today and all the push rods seemed to be spinning well (#3 was a little slow but was still spinning) and all rocker arms were oiling themselves well.

The video is taking awhile to upload. I'll link it in a bit.

:cheers:
 
CMD82 said:
I've been following your build - great work! I have been leaning towards this product from Sears - a quick look it seems to be more material for the money, and designed for auto insulation. Any thoughts...

Automotive Floor Insulation at Sears Automotive
Click to expand...

Hmm - interesting... I'll have to read about it more later but right now several of those are out of stock so the prices aren't listed. The stuff sounds good but it appears to be more expensive than the McMaster Carr options.

Thanks!
 
That video was awesome! Angry sewing machine sound is right but I kinda like the sound myself (as long as theres nothing wrong with the engine of course!). But I could see how it may get annoying over a long distance and interfere with conversations :rolleyes:

Thanks for the vid! Its giving me an idea of what my truck is going to sound like when I get it back together:D

All the best
Lee
 
Thanks Lee. Right now I have a 2.25 inch exhaust pipe running through a Flowmaster 40 series muffler that dumps out near the rear axle. I need to rebend a new exhaust and have it dump out at the driver's rear quarter panel .... yet another thing to do!
 
Steve just warm it up and check the valve clearances. That will tell you if you have a valve issue.

Sounds good to me but a feeler gauge will be the deciding factor.

I'd think it might need a little adjustment anyway after 500 miles.
 
Trollhole said:
Steve just warm it up and check the valve clearances. That will tell you if you have a valve issue.

Sounds good to me but a feeler gauge will be the deciding factor.

I'd think it might need a little adjustment anyway after 500 miles.
Click to expand...

It needs an oil change anyways so I'll do that and then check the valves - I also put some Bosch plug wires on from the all-imports.com site you told me about - they were sooo much cheaper than anywhere else.
 
eventhough said:
Hmm - interesting... I'll have to read about it more later but right now several of those are out of stock so the prices aren't listed. The stuff sounds good but it appears to be more expensive than the McMaster Carr options.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I don't know why it didn't show up, but the size is 52" x 32" for $79.
 
Tank venting problem seems to be officially fixed! :bounce::bounce2:

Stalling problem seems to be fixed... :bounce::bounce2: ...I hope...

High idle after warming up is not fixed. I've tightened up the throttle linkage and that helped a bit. There isn't hardly any play in there now. I was able to pull over after about an hour drive when it was idling high and get under the hood.

Could my small exhaust leak be causing this problem? The exhaust leak doesn't happen when cold but does leak when warm, which corresponds to the high idle. I can pull up on the brake pedal and bring the idle down a bit but it goes right back up. Currently idle is set to 650 but it goes up to 850-1050 or so when hot.

Give me some feedback if barking up the right tree before I pull the manifold and have it spotfaced and put on a Remflex gasket.

Thanks! :cheers::cheers:
 
Last edited:
Done some more reading...and then some more reading.

I'm gonna check again for intake/exhaust leaks. There is a slight exhaust smell in the cab but I thought/hoped that was from my exhaust stopping near the rear axle where I had to cut it off to replace the tank. I still need to bend a new exhaust - just have to find time.

Read that a cracked intake manifold below the carb could do this. I inspected the manifolds well during the rebuild and I recall them looking OK.

SOR plate installed in place of heat riser - copper gasket sealer used too and no leaks detected there with starter fluid.

No leaks at base of carb either via starter fluid check.

Gonna listen again with a length of hose and then do the starter fluid check again. Also gonna adjust my valves but don't have time for that today.

:cheers:
 
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