The Resurection of 'The Beast' (20 Viewers)

[Southeast Overland]

the t-stat seats fully in the lower housing and I don't see any interference in the upper. There is probably 1mm of gap between the two housings when I place the o-ring in the top. I assume I'm putting it in the right spot on top of the tstat.

 

[Southeast Overland]

decided I will use 2x2x1/8 to tie the sliders to the frame. Tie-ins range from 9 to 15 inches long. I have enough 1/8 already to do this. I'll put a gusset on top of each 2x2 where it hits the frame. Frame plates are cut and are ~4x4 inches and will be welded in a diamond pattern on the frame.

 

[Southeast Overland]

Couple of questions.

I've been advised to take out the heat riser/flapper in my exhaust manifold. I have a SOR insulator (stainless deflector) that I can install. If I keep the flapper and the SOR insulator I have to carve up the flapper a bit. Should I go ahead and take out the flapper? I don't see a good way to do it without tearing it out in pieces and ruining it for future use.

Next - I have a rebuilt sag pump and a volvo sag and pulley. I want to use the reman pump as I hope it would be in better shape. I have the pulley off the old pump and the press fit piece. Should I just take this to a decent mechanic and have them press it on? I don't want to beat it on.

 

[Southeast Overland]

Sag pulley is pressed on.

Upper tailgage is painted.

Belts on the 2F.

Flapper is out of the exhaust manifold. Upper and lower exhaust manifold are loosely bolted together with two new OEM gaskets and a SOR plate. I have to get two bolt holes tapped and one stud drilled out and tapped. A shop is going to do that before they ceramic coat the exhaust.

Speaking of ceramic coating - Hey Lou - did you wanted yours done also?

I had to plug the hole where the flapper went into the exhaust manifold. I couldn't find a great way to do it. I read a post somewhere that you can just put a stainless steel bolt in. I picked up a bolt, two washers and nut - all stainless. Also putting in a brass finish type washer that I hope will crush down and help seal the hole. Also a bunch of copper rtv (if that is what you call it) will be used. Does anyone have any better ideas? There isn't a smooth surface on the outer portion of the exhaust manifold flapper hole to seal to.

Oh, and I painted about half the interior of the house...

 

[Southeast Overland]

The helped me roll the Pig into the driveway - my neighbors are thrilled.

Front shocks are back on after being painted. One was pretty beat up (two good dents) but both seemed to work well so I saved $100 and put these old Rancho 9000s back on - they look much better though.

I cleaned the frame rails from the tranny mounts back to the rear front spring hangers. I'm gonna give it another hour or so to totally dry and then I'll paint the frame before I put the motor/tranny/tcase back in.

Cut out a patch of rust on the inner rockers where they were welded ot the IPOR sliders. I'm trying to figure out the best and easiest way to fix this hole now and also weld supports from the IPOR sliders to the frame...kinda tricky b/c I have to cut out parts of the inner rockers to get to the sliders... I also have remnants from some old sliders from the PPPO.

I cleaned a ton and a half of gunk off of my tranny and tcase. I'm going to shoot a bit of raddle can paint on the tranny and call it good. Its not going to be perfect but much better than it was.

I'm waiting on one more order - this one from Toyota. Once it arrives I should have most of the pieces I need to finish this thing off - minus a choke cable - still need to source that.

 

[Southeast Overland]

I know I know - I suck b/c I'm not posting any pics.

I did get the frame I had prepped in primer and the tranny primed. I hope to get some black paint to it tomorrow.

 

[cruiserbrett]

could you use a small steel freeze plug in the hole for the exh. manifold flapper shaft?

 

[Southeast Overland]

could you use a small steel freeze plug in the hole for the exh. manifold flapper shaft?

I probably could. I'm taking the manifolds by a shop today to have the exhaust ceramic coated and some threads tapped. I'll see if they have anything. If they don't I'll try the SS bolt with copper washers.

 

[Trollhole]

Steve pretty sure they can braze that hole for you.

 

[Southeast Overland]

Steve pretty sure they can braze that hole for you.

Thanks - I'll check. Maybe they can do the EGR hole too. I don't have a plug for that and was planning on fabbing a plate and using some cut-to-fit gasket material.

 

[Southeast Overland]

Manifolds are at the shop. The exhaust is going to be ceramic coated (black not silver - head guy said black looks better on beat up manifolds and mine is not mint). They are also going to TIG the flapper hole and EGR hole shut - I don't need either of these, gonna tap one hole the threads are stripped on. I should have this back in a few days. Prices were good - I'll post them up when I pick everything up.

 

[Southeast Overland]

Waiting to get my manifolds back from being planed, a few holes welded shut and the exhaust ceramic coated.

Here are a few pics.

2F from passenger side. (Sorry for the fuzzy pics.) Most everything on this bad boy is either new or rebuilt - or at least cleaned up and inspected. I know the wrong oil filter is installed. I think I sent a FJC filter instead of a 2F filter to the mechanic.

2F driver's side. I gotta check to make sure my belts are on right.

My Piggie has been rolled out into the driveway to prep for 2F installation. My neighbors love me.

Repainted wheels.

I finally painted the upper tailgate (white portion). The rear bumper dual swingouts are also tacked into place. I'm trying to find a 220V welder to go ahead and burn these welds in.

Close-up of my swingarm clamps. A small red poly bumpstop will go under both swingarms.

Tranny and T-case painted. I did an OK job cleaning. There were still some nooks and crannies with caked on junk left but I didn't want to bust out a pressure washer.

 

[Rock Hill Fj55]

That engine is so pretty, you did a great job. Just a little envy from me though.

 

[Southeast Overland]

The was nice enough to let me get a few hours in last night. I installed my clutch. I could not get a clutch alignment tool from a Toyota dealer "your truck is too old" (1983 2F) and the local Advance Auto Parts listed it on their website but couldn't order it. Some funky agreement in place meant I had to order it and pay shipping to my house instead of them ordering it from their warehouse w/ free shipping and I can pick it up the next day. Gundy lent me his tool and I was off and rockin'.

I've never replaced a clutch before. It seemed very straight forward. I did think the clutch disc would sit a little looser between the flywheel and pressure plate...that sucker is clamped in there tight. My assembly was
1) bolt bellhousing on
2) bolt flywheel on
3) hold clutch disc and pressure plate up and insert clutch alignment tool
4) bolt pressure plate on
5) remove clutch alignment tool
6) install clutch fork
7) install clutch fork boot
8) o so carefully slide tranny/tcase into place and bolt to bell housing
- was that right?

Don't it look purdy?
I do see where a little tcase 90 wt leaked out through the parking drum...that probably happened when I had the tcase/tranny leaning on its side so the fresh paint could dry. Hopefully the brake pads are OK - they are brand spankin' new.

Unfortunately I was sent some wrong parts but instead of reordering Trollhole is hooking me up.

I did receive the thicker rubber type gasket that goes between the two halves of the thermostat housing - so - for the reassembly I have 3 gaskets -
1) rubber o-ring that goes on top of the thermostat
2) thicker rubber OEM gasket
3) slightly thinner (but not paper thin) paper gasket - I have no idea where I got this from - it might be OEM...probably is

When I reassemble the tstat housing with just the o-ring and paper gasket the two halves of the tstat housing have a gap between them. If I use both the paper and rubber gasket there isn't a gap - so - I plan on using both the paper and rubber gasket with some tstat housing sealant stuff I picked up at Advance and hopefully it will work.

O-ring in place.

O-ring, rubber gasket and tstat in place...looks good from here.

O-ring, rubber gasket and tstat in place...from the side you can see a small gap between the rubber gasket and the tstat housing top.

That small gap allows enough play to let the rubber gasket slip out.

Here I also installed the paper gasket.

With the addition of the paper gasket it seems to fill the void. The tstat seems to sit nicely too.

I hate to beat on the tstat gasket thing but I've searched and read a bunch of threads and some seem to need both the rubber and paper gasket and some dont. Some say its OK to use both and some say its not.

Anyways - tonight I hope to get the clutch inspection plate cover on - install the rectangular rubber boot on the driver's side of the bell housing and get the tstat housing together. If I get REALLY lucky I'll get my manifolds on too but I'm not holding my breath. I still need to get the manifolds back from the shop where the exhaust is being ceramic coated.

 

[yooper]

getting close

 

[Southeast Overland]

Well hell - I checked the throw-out bearing. It seemed to be in good shape so I threw it back in.

I did NOT check the pilot bearing - I have no idea what shape it is in. The clutch, bell housing, tranny and tcase are all bolted up and I'm not feeling like pulling all that crap back out.

I'm leaning towards just installing the motor as is and not pulling everything apart to replace the pilot bearing.

What cha think?

 

[Southeast Overland]

Damn pilot bearing is $5 at Advance - I'm picking it up after work along with a bearing puller. Time to disassemble everything. I was hoping I would only install the clutch, tranny and tcase once - not twice like everything else.

 

[inkpot]

Damn pilot bearing is $5 at Advance - I'm picking it up after work along with a bearing puller. Time to disassemble everything. I was hoping I would only install the clutch, tranny and tcase once - not twice like everything else.

Howdy! The good thing is that you can leave the pressure plate and friction disk in place to reach thru and pop the pilot bearing in/out. If it was me, I would go for a new throw out bearing too, but that's just me. John

 

[71-CRUISER]

Looking Good, Its amazing what taking EVERYTHING apart and cleaning and painting does. I just wish people would understand how much time and effort it realy takes.

 

[Rock Hill Fj55]

Lookin good. 10 4 on the time and effort!!!