The Resurection of 'The Beast' (10 Viewers)

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Steve your gonna have a small problem. You need to check the 83 WP and make sure the fan connection orients the same as the 76 as far a location and distance. If your gonna use the oil cooler you cannot use the 76 pump. If you plan on not using it then you can just use the pump and thermostat off the 76. I'm pretty sure you can buy a 77 or later WP for a 55 that will have the oil cooler line. I know spending more money is a pain but you don't want to get that 83 WP you have right now near anything you just spent a chunk of money on. It's toast. The silicon was a temp fix due to the main seal being shot. Most likely this killed the bearings as they were sitting in radiator fluid.

I can help you source a new WP with a cooler if you want. I usually can find a good deal somewhere.

The 83 thermostat housing is looking a little rough. I have a feeling when you open it up you will see even worse. Looks like the PO of that 83 didn't know anything about radiator fluid. If it's not changed regularly it will start eating engine parts. It starts with aluminum first. If you want to you can bring it by to me one day and I'll but it in the bead blaster. It will give you a good idea of what you have and whether it's salvagable. Those 4 bolts holding it together will also be a pain to get out. Start soaking them now with PB blaster.

The 76 thermostat will work on the 83 as long as you don't plan on using the oil cooler.

Personally I'd see if the 83 thermostat housing is salvagable. If not I'd source a used one. Any thermostat housing off a 77 and above should work. Perferably from a 40 or 55. The 60 housing has a smaller radiator hose pipe which can be a pain when trying to use a stock 55 or 40 upper radiator hose. (ask me how I know (big gay leaks as I write this)). Those smog fittings on the side can be plugged. There is a thread in the 40 section on where to get the plugs on the cheap. If those smog fittings are in good shape I'd cap them and hit them with my bead blaster. They will come out looking new. People pay good money for those. I'd source a new pump from a 77-78 fj55 with oil cooler fitting. It will bolt right up to your 76 fan and put it in the right place. I'd still with the oil cooler routing. Even though it's a pain in the ass. There was a reason Toyota went to it on later 2F's. On the trail where your using high rpms and low speeds it could come in very handy.


I'd take everything you can to have it hot tanked. Everything! Ask the guys at 81 to do the tanking first and then go get them and start painting them. It will give you something to do until the motor is done. If your skeptable about getting the bolts back and knowing where they go I'd take pictures with them on a piece of paper with a ruler beside them and write on the piece of paper where they go. That way you can put them back in the ziplock bags that have the locations written on them.

The extra ports on the 83
 
The 83 water pump is SHOT. I got the pulley and fan clutch off of it last night to reuse. While at my local Toyota dealer for some service Friday I had him look up some water pumps. He could get a water pump for a 76 55 but it was not set up for the fan clutch. He could get a water pump for a 79 and up 55/40 which would have the clutch and also the extra hookup for the oil cooler. I was hoping for a 77-78 water pump like Trollhole said but I'll have to give the 79+ a try. It was about $80 just for the water pump (no pulley or fan clutch). I might buy a new fan clutch and keep this one for a spare. I think the clutch was about $50.

I got my oil cooler, valve cover and air filter housing mounting brackets all painted up yesterday. I think they look pretty good. I'll post some pics later today. I pulled out the gear reduction starter from the 83 and am going to open it up today to clean, inspect, and repaint. I think the local Advance Auto Parts store can test starters (I think I heard that somewhere) so I might take it by there.

Should get about 6 hours of work in today!!! :bounce::bounce2::bounce::bounce2:
 
Advance Auto checked mine.......good deal, no charge!; if mine was bad would have ordered another from them; their prices were very reasonable

Lou
 
On the phone w/ Advance right now...

2 of 3 screws that held on the cap that allows access to the contacts stripped out - no big deal. I pulled out a tap which seemed to fit perfect and almost had the first hole tapped when the *&^#(@$ tap broke off. There is no way to get the broken part of the tap out so I either will have to trust two screws to keep that cap on or I will have to buy another from Advance. I would assume two screws and a little extra RTV to keep the seal good...

OK - Advance says $89.99 for a rebuilt OEM (I'm not holding my breath on the OEM) w/ a core which I have...should I go that route or should I trust two screws and some RTV?
 
Decided to order the rebuilt starter from Advance. It is $89.99 w/ a limited lifetime warranty. I'll trade in my core and be done with it. I did find out that the rebuilt unit is not OEM... oh, well - I don't think its worth the frustration and I'll carry a spare. The :princess: even said she would buy it! I'm going to put a starter from my 76 in my spares kit for the trail unless that is a bad idea... I'm planning on bolting down a wooden box in the back of my Pig for trail spares: starter, birf, axles, diff, etc.

I have most everything packed up in my FJC to take to the machine shop. Bolts had their pics taken on a piece of labeled paper beside a ruler so I can sort everything when they get home. Thanks for the advice Trollhole.

Should I take my manifold to be hot tanked or should I just clean it up here and call it good? Or, should I buy the MAF tuned headers? Remember, the goal of my build is two fold: dependability and affordability - but I do not want to cut any corners that will bite me in the future.

I think I'm going to have my dealer order a water pump for the 83 which should run me about $75...sounds like a deal as long as things line up right - which reminds me I need to check that...

I took apart the thermostat housing from the 83. (I'll post some pics as soon as the wife lets me use her camera. The battery died when I was using it in the garage and she is scared to death that the battery will be FUBAR'd if I don't let it have a full charge...) It didn't look too bad. The thermostat wasn't as clean as the one from my 76. It also looked slightly different. I did snap one of the four bolts holding the two housing halves together. I was still able to split to two halves but will have to get the leftover piece out at some point. It is soaking in PB Blaster now. I also broke one of the two bolts on the 76 pump holding the two halves together...it will be a pain to get out as it broke flush with the bottom half...the 83 has a good quarter inch sticking out that I can work with.

I took apart the clutch slave from the 76. The bore looked nice and shiney. I did not see any pitting or rust. I also didn't have any problem with it before I pulled the motor. Should it be OK if I run it as is or should I rebuild it while I have easy access? I'm leaning towards just cleaning and painting unless someone says otherwise.

The 76 air filter housing does not come close to matching up with the 83 valve cover. Both have been repainted...I'll have to take a closer look at how they match up. JimC said a few pages back that they would work with some minor alterations.

I looked at putting the coil and ignitor from the 83 in the Pig. I cleaned both up and repainted the coil mounting hardware. The Pig never had any problem with the coil. I did note though that the Pig does not have an ignitor like the 83 does but rather what looks like an aftermarket ignitor - it is about half an inch tall by half an inch deep by 3 inches long. I'll pull those and throw them in my spares box for the trail.

I feel like I forgot to talk about a few things - I was in the garage for a good 6 hours and feel like I didn't get anything done!!! ARGH!!! LOL

ETA: Remembered one thing - I need to replace my choke cable as I ripped my last one apart pulling my motor. I hoped to just pick one up from Advance. Is there anything special I need to know...length, type, etc?

I'll post pics up later tonight.

:cheers:
 
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Check out the thermostat and the housing - what cha think? I'm hoping to use both as-is if I can get the broken off bolt out.

83 thermostat
DSC01745.jpg



83 thermostat housing lower half
DSC01746.jpg



83 thermostat housing upper half - not broken bolt
DSC01747.jpg
 
New thermostat. Trust me. It's worth the small cost.

Don't tank the headers. Clean and repaint with hi-temp paint call it good.

Go ahead and buy some anti seize you will thank me in the future. I'd get that bolt out of the thermo housing and get it tanked also. Make sure to ask them about tanking aluminum parts. I'm assuming they can do this.

Keep the clutch slave and call it good.

That aftermarket igniter your talking about is a ballast resistor. Ditch all that for the 83 igniter.

Did you put the 83 water pump you have together with the old clutch and fan and measure height compared to the 76 pump and fan? Your gonna be pissed if you put the 83 pump in and find out the fan and clutch.is trying to take up the same space as the radiator.


Best way to remove bolts when you know they might snap is to use some heat. You don't want to try to turn the aluminum red, if you did it would turn to liquid, but just get it hot. SOmetimes that helps.
 
Gas fume issues

I had the same problems in my '75- gas fumes in the cab, a whistling gas tank from pressure build up, and gas spraying me in the face when I took the gas cap off. These problems were solved when I did the following-
1)Did nothing to my stock gas cap.
2)Installed a new check valve from specter (It has an arrow on it to show flow direction to the canister. I believe it should flow both directions, but one way flows easier than the other. If your old one will only flow one way you can probably get away with using it if it's flowing toward the canister.)
3)Unplugged the outlet line on my canister that the PO had capped and installed a new hose.
4)Made a fitting on my air filter housing to accept the new hose from the canister.

I can probably take a picture if you need some visual.
 
New thermostat. Trust me. It's worth the small cost.

I'm going to see if the thermostat from the 76 will work but will probably buy a new one, especially if it is cheap. I'll just have another trail spare.

Don't tank the headers. Clean and repaint with hi-temp paint call it good.

Good - I left them @ home. Most everything else is sitting in my FJC ready to go to 81 later today.

Go ahead and buy some anti seize you will thank me in the future. I'd get that bolt out of the thermo housing and get it tanked also. Make sure to ask them about tanking aluminum parts. I'm assuming they can do this.

Thermo housing is @ home. I'll take that to them later.

Keep the clutch slave and call it good.

OK - it looked good to me.

That aftermarket igniter your talking about is a ballast resistor. Ditch all that for the 83 igniter.

OK - I'll go ahead and start working on that while the parts are @ 81.

Did you put the 83 water pump you have together with the old clutch and fan and measure height compared to the 76 pump and fan? Your gonna be pissed if you put the 83 pump in and find out the fan and clutch.is trying to take up the same space as the radiator.

76 water pump didn't have a clutch. It bolted directly to a pulley which then bolted directly to the fan. Someone in the 40/55 tech session said I would need to use a fan shroud from a 83 also - which I have. I don't know what else to do...I want to run the oil cooler and the 76 water pump doesn't have those attachments. The only other option available is the later style water pump (79-80) 40/55 pump from the dealer. Looks like I'm stuck making the later style pump work. Could I just leave out the fan clutch if the whole thing is too long? I'll take good measurements and pics tonight.

76WaterPump.jpg


Best way to remove bolts when you know they might snap is to use some heat. You don't want to try to turn the aluminum red, if you did it would turn to liquid, but just get it hot. SOmetimes that helps.

Will do. I'll try that in a few days. I'm going to let those two bolts (one on each water pump) soak in PB Blaster for a few more days. All bolts on both the 76 and 83 water pumps were toast. I'm getting them tanked but will probably look for replacements. I don't have much faith in what will be left of them.



I had the same problems in my '75- gas fumes in the cab, a whistling gas tank from pressure build up, and gas spraying me in the face when I took the gas cap off. These problems were solved when I did the following-
1)Did nothing to my stock gas cap.
2)Installed a new check valve from specter (It has an arrow on it to show flow direction to the canister. I believe it should flow both directions, but one way flows easier than the other. If your old one will only flow one way you can probably get away with using it if it's flowing toward the canister.)
3)Unplugged the outlet line on my canister that the PO had capped and installed a new hose.
4)Made a fitting on my air filter housing to accept the new hose from the canister.

I can probably take a picture if you need some visual.

Some pics would be great - I'm a visual guy.

I'm going to pick up a stock gas cap and replace the locking one I have now.

I'll also pick up a new OEM check valve.

No hoses are capped. All hoses appeared to be in good shape. If I have some time while the motor is being machined I'll install all new soft hoses and a charcoal canister.

Thanks for the info!
 
I just dropped off all the parts at the machine shop except my crank which I forgot :mad:. Head guy there said I would need new pistons, rings, lifters and cam...off to price that from the BG2F thread.

MAF prices (don't kill me Dirty)
Cast pistons w/ rings $230-275 depending on size
Deves rings separate $100
OEM rings separate $180
Lifters $162
Cam ?????? broken site links...

CCOT
Lifters $110 on sale

OEM
Timing gears $dunno

I might just have the machine shop source the pistons - that was recommended on the BG2F thread.

I'm leaning towards the Downey Torquer cam @ $220.

Pistons are available locally from ITM Automotive for $208 w/ rings - that is what Trollhole used. I'll prob go with those rings and not buy the Deves like he did.

I wonder if the machine shop will do the freeze plugs and oil galley plug...
 
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Where I'm buying parts from...

Lifters - CCOT $110
Cam - Downey Torquer $220
Bearings - Bucks/ITM Automotive - Local shop $?
Pistons - Bucks/ITM Automotive - Local shop (come with rings) $210

Water pump - OEM $80
Few left over misc gaskets and seals - OEM
Timing gears - OEM $?
Thermostat - OEM $?

I decided against the MAF parts.

Appx total = $530 plus timing gears, thermostat, few misc gaskets and seals and bearings - I'm hoping to get out for under $800 by the time its over.

Total cost we are looking at is:
2F core $350
Pasts above $750
Starter $90
Machine work $600 ?
New belts/hoses $80 ?
Parts already purchased $200 (gaskets, etc)
New fluids $60 ?
Total $2,130 - OUCH!!!

I'm stopping by the machine shop this afternoon to drop off the crank that I forgot yesterday. I'm going to mention to them to tap the oil galley plug and cap it, also not to put any shims under the springs as that could case the springs to stack with the aftermarket cam.
 
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Did a little more work last night.

- was able to get the broken bolt out of the bottom half of the 83 thermo housing - took a few days soaking in PB Blaster plus some heat
- picked up my remanufactured starter from Advance
- dropped crank off at machine shop
- cleaned up clutch slave and mounting hardware and repainted. The hose is a little cracked. Can these be ordered or do I need to have one made up at a hose place?
- sourced some parts from the dealer, valve cover nut seals (4), clutch housing rubber seal, timing gears (expensive!), air check valve in rear quarter - need to make sure I don't have any other timing gear options and that I need the gas check valve
- camshaft from dealer is about $350, I'll get a Downey Torquer for that (which I need to research more)

And here is the important stuff - my water pump.

I hope to run a water pump for a 83 2F since I want to run the oil cooler. My problem is I might not have enough clearance. The 83 uses a fan clutch and the 76 doesn't. The 76 pump w/ fan measures 7 3/16" in height and the 83 w/ fan clutch measures 8 1/16 in height. I don't see how I could run the 83 w/o a clutch - neither the 83 or 76 fan will directly bolt up to the 83 water pump w/o the clutch in place. So, that is 14/16 or 7/8" extra height using the 83 water pump. Can someone take a measurement and see if this will clear? I can't really move my radiator around much or the 2F. I do have a fan shroud from the 83 FJ60 that I can use if that helps. I still need to make sure the 83 pump will line up the same as the 76 - will do that tonight.

:cheers:
 
Did a little more work last night.

- was able to get the broken bolt out of the bottom half of the 83 thermo housing - took a few days soaking in PB Blaster plus some heat
- picked up my remanufactured starter from Advance
- dropped crank off at machine shop
- cleaned up clutch slave and mounting hardware and repainted. The hose is a little cracked. Can these be ordered or do I need to have one made up at a hose place?
- sourced some parts from the dealer, valve cover nut seals (4), clutch housing rubber seal, timing gears (expensive!), air check valve in rear quarter - need to make sure I don't have any other timing gear options and that I need the gas check valve
- camshaft from dealer is about $350, I'll get a Downey Torquer for that (which I need to research more)

And here is the important stuff - my water pump.

I hope to run a water pump for a 83 2F since I want to run the oil cooler. My problem is I might not have enough clearance. The 83 uses a fan clutch and the 76 doesn't. The 76 pump w/ fan measures 7 3/16" in height and the 83 w/ fan clutch measures 8 1/16 in height. I don't see how I could run the 83 w/o a clutch - neither the 83 or 76 fan will directly bolt up to the 83 water pump w/o the clutch in place. So, that is 14/16 or 7/8" extra height using the 83 water pump. Can someone take a measurement and see if this will clear? I can't really move my radiator around much or the 2F. I do have a fan shroud from the 83 FJ60 that I can use if that helps. I still need to make sure the 83 pump will line up the same as the 76 - will do that tonight.

:cheers:


You have 1 inch between your fan and the radiator on 75-76 55's. Bottom is not an issue as the fan tilts towards the top. So unless you can move your radiator forward at least a hlaf to an inch I don't see it working. Would take a lot of fabbing to make it work. ANything is possible.

Your lucky I drove the 55 to work today. Your welcome to come look at the stock setup and take measurements. Your less than a mile from me.
 
I'll call you and come by later today. I also need to pick up a UC hat to send down to Columbia.

Moving the radiator is going to be a PITA.

You have 1 inch between your fan and the radiator on 75-76 55's. Bottom is not an issue as the fan tilts towards the top. So unless you can move your radiator forward at least a hlaf to an inch I don't see it working. Would take a lot of fabbing to make it work. ANything is possible.

Your lucky I drove the 55 to work today. Your welcome to come look at the stock setup and take measurements. Your less than a mile from me.
 
You need this waterpump for the direct drive FJ55 fan & pulley, but has the fitting for oil cooler:

16100-61041 1 OE Waterpump 77FJ55 w/ AC

You rock Jim.

I found 16100‑61041 2F..FJ55..USA; W/ OIL COOLER @ http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1977_TOYOTA_LAND+CRUISER_FJ55LG-KA.14_1601.html. I also have my dealer parts guy looking up the part # you gave me. If that part # = an oil pump w/ the oil cooler but not the fan clutch and it aligns fine to the block then I should be golden.

Dang - that is twice you have saved me in this thread.
 
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Steve I thought you said this one was discontinued.

Um, I was thinking it was 78-79 (I hope). I emailed Rick @ RHT to check.

ETA: water pump is available for $125. My parts guy can confirm that it has the oil cooler connection but can not confirm that it does not have a fan clutch.
 
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Got about an hour in last night. Cleaned up my clutch plate a bit and organized all my parts. It is nice having an area to work in again. Also soaked a few parts in PB Blaster that are being stubborn. My manifold didn't want to come apart even with air. I didn't want to strip anything so I'll try again later. I also have a sensor still in the bottom of my 83 water pump that has to come out. It is being stubborn and I don't want to mess up the pump. The sensor is broken already so I might just "beat it into submission" later.

I won't get any work done this weekend between hunting and the FIL's b-day.

I also had something weird happen last night. While in the garage working I very suddenly got dizzy and had a very bad headache. I figured I just inhaled something and got some fresh air. I felt better after a few minutes so I went back into the garage and it happened again a few minutes later. I literally almost passed out and had my cell phone in my hand getting ready to call 911. Luckily the :princess: came home and helped me out. I put a carbon monoxide detector in the garage but it didn't go off. The only things I worked with last night were the air compressor (electric motor), PB Blaster, and I moved some parts around...very strange. It took me about two hours to feel almost normal again. Now that I think back on it I was totally out of my mind and should have called 911. Live and learn!

Oh, I also had 1 Bud Light - that might have been the problem...
 
Was the can this size?

Seriously though, that's scary. Not sure where to begin but I'd get that issue resolved before I spent much more time working on the truck.

Did you lay down between episodes? If so, maybe a flu bug or food poisoning?

TJK
keg.webp
 

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