- Thread starter
- #881
Edited post above to state that when gas was overflowing out the gas cap during warm weather it would immediately stop once I popped the gas cap - but I guess that makes sense though... 
The Resurection of 'The Beast'
- Thread starter Southeast Overland
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #882
So it looks like I have two solutions -
1) Buy a vented gas cap and see if that keeps the gas smell down (Thanks Kaderabek). How would this keep gas from expanding and over flowing out of the fill neck? Would the vented cap cause the tank not to overflow because the expanding vapor has somewhere to go? So - a vented cap would do the same thing as when I remove the non-vented cap to stop overflowing?
2) Buy a new sealed gas cap, install a charcoal canister from a FJ60 that I already have, run current line from tank into canister top, other top line back out to the air filter housing, and rear vented out to the current location in the passenger body mount under the A pillar.
I don't think #2 will work with my 76 air filter housing as I don't have a place to hook up the charcoal canister to the housing. I have a air filter housing from a 83 FJ60 (where the charcoal canister came from) but I would prefer not to use it as I've already stripped and repainted the original housing.
1) Buy a vented gas cap and see if that keeps the gas smell down (Thanks Kaderabek). How would this keep gas from expanding and over flowing out of the fill neck? Would the vented cap cause the tank not to overflow because the expanding vapor has somewhere to go? So - a vented cap would do the same thing as when I remove the non-vented cap to stop overflowing?
2) Buy a new sealed gas cap, install a charcoal canister from a FJ60 that I already have, run current line from tank into canister top, other top line back out to the air filter housing, and rear vented out to the current location in the passenger body mount under the A pillar.
I don't think #2 will work with my 76 air filter housing as I don't have a place to hook up the charcoal canister to the housing. I have a air filter housing from a 83 FJ60 (where the charcoal canister came from) but I would prefer not to use it as I've already stripped and repainted the original housing.
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Actually that's exactly what I would have done once I figured out that the engine was a POS.
I think Casey put that locking gas cap on it. He gave the gas door lock away to somebody in a fit of Cruiser karma.
I had it overflow on me twice in hot weather and one time I got a face full of gas when I opened the cap at the gas station.
I'm thinking a vented cap might solve your entire problem. It's certainly the first thing to try.
If you didn't have a garage full of 2F's I'd vote for the diesel option...
Howdy! Is there room on the housing bottom where you could tap in a hose barb with a right angle fitting so it would introduce the vapors inside the filter element? John
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Just fooling with ya, but I say diesel also......
My FJ55 would have either a 12HT H55, with air con attach or a 1hz(dreaming of a 1hdt H55).
Rob
My FJ55 would have either a 12HT H55, with air con attach or a 1hz(dreaming of a 1hdt H55).
Rob
Steve....you are lacking venting......had the same problem in the 74........the PO had plugged ALL the vents......you might check the "one way" valve part # 77701T that goes after the fuel air separator; it could be stuck or installed backwards.........ask me how I know it can be done....it can 
..........any similar charcoal canister will do HTH
Lou
..........any similar charcoal canister will do HTHLou
- Thread starter
- #888
I would love to drop in a diesel but I don't have the expertise to do that conversion and I have a 83 2F torn down and almost completely packed up and ready to go to the machine shop. I have to get this thing back on the road - its killing me!
I mentioned putting in a SM420 one day a few months ago while she was down and Trollhole about kicked my a$$..."no more delays!"
It gets hot in the UP of Michigan? I call BS!
There should be - I'll try that. Last night I looked to see how easy it would be to put my charcoal canister from a FJ60 in - that thing is huge! I would have to mount it on its side. If I mounted it upright it would poke through the top of the hood.
Steve....you are lacking venting......had the same problem in the 74........the PO had plugged ALL the vents......you might check the "one way" valve part # 77701T that goes after the fuel air separator; it could be stuck or installed backwards.........ask me how I know it can be done....it can
Lou
Will do - I already checked it but my "check" was a 'wiggle, wiggle' and 'OK, its there - check!' So air should be able to pass from the fuel air separator through the valve but not back into the fuel air separator - right?
Thanks!
check valve test
Steve, I just take it out and blow on it.......should only let air go in one direction........I had installed it backwards when I replaced the hoses
Lou
Steve, I just take it out and blow on it.......should only let air go in one direction........I had installed it backwards when I replaced the hoses
Lou
I would love to drop in a diesel but I don't have the expertise to do that conversion and I have a 83 2F torn down and almost completely packed up and ready to go to the machine shop. I have to get this thing back on the road - its killing me!
I mentioned putting in a SM420 one day a few months ago while she was down and Trollhole about kicked my a$$..."no more delays!"
It gets hot in the UP of Michigan? I call BS!
There should be - I'll try that. Last night I looked to see how easy it would be to put my charcoal canister from a FJ60 in - that thing is huge! I would have to mount it on its side. If I mounted it upright it would poke through the top of the hood.
Will do - I already checked it but my "check" was a 'wiggle, wiggle' and 'OK, its there - check!' So air should be able to pass from the fuel air separator through the valve but not back into the fuel air separator - right?
Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #890
Steve, I just take it out and blow on it.......should only let air go in one direction........I had installed it backwards when I replaced the hoses
Lou
Which direction should air go - from the separator down the hose I assume?
direction of flow check valve
Steve, it will flow from the air/fuel separator downstream towards the engine bay/charcoal canister......the charcoal canister off a 60 is big but think it will fit inside the rear quarter panel; a quick ghetto fix that I did was route the air-fuel separator via the check valve into a charcoal canister placed inside the DS rear quater panel and the line that went to the carb/manifold rerouted it up into the "D" pillar........no more gas smell
...on the 74 the PO had removed charcoal canister...vent lines and stuck on a weber.......so I had no where to route the air-fuel separator unless I made up hard lines then placed the charcoal canister in the engine bay .......hook it up some way or another to the weber....took the dirty quick way out and till now no more gas leaking or smell HTH;
Lou
Steve, it will flow from the air/fuel separator downstream towards the engine bay/charcoal canister......the charcoal canister off a 60 is big but think it will fit inside the rear quarter panel; a quick ghetto fix that I did was route the air-fuel separator via the check valve into a charcoal canister placed inside the DS rear quater panel and the line that went to the carb/manifold rerouted it up into the "D" pillar........no more gas smell
...on the 74 the PO had removed charcoal canister...vent lines and stuck on a weber.......so I had no where to route the air-fuel separator unless I made up hard lines then placed the charcoal canister in the engine bay .......hook it up some way or another to the weber....took the dirty quick way out and till now no more gas leaking or smell HTH;Lou
- Thread starter
- #892
If I use a vented gas cap won't that still let gas leak out the cap when I'm leaning hard to driver?
And some more questions. Sorry for all the questions. I'm over my head and trying not to mess anything up too badly.
I got a little work in last night - had a little trouble with the 83 water pump. At first it would not turn by hand. I compared it to the 76 that Yooper had replaced w/ OEM and the 76 was nice and shiny inside and turned easily and smoothly by hand. The 83 would only turn about 20% of the way around. With a little work I got it to turn all the way around. It is not too rough but isn't as smooth as the 76. Is this pump usable? Is there a way to fix it or do I need to buy a new one? There was also a hole on the side of the 83 (just like on the 76) but the hole on the 83 was filled with silicone....what the heck was up with that? What was the PO doing? Was there a seal busted inside and the PO was trying to 'fix' a leak?
Also had some questions about the thermostat housing. Again, the 76 thermostat housing is much cleaner than the 83. Can I use the 76 on the 83 rebuild? The 76 only has two connections where the 83 has those same two, plus another off the passenger side, and some 'sensors' on the driver's side.
1) Battery mounted with a bracket I fabbed - worked out pretty good.
2) Water pump rear plate from 83 - is a little gouged. I'll smooth this out a bit.
3) 83 water pump with rear plate off. Note rust.
4) 83 thermostat housing from front.
5) 83 thermostat housing from driver - note 'sensor' connections.
6) 83 thermostat from passenger - note two connections.
7) 76 thermostat housing - note only two total connections - nice and simple.
8) 83 water pump - another issue - there is a hole on the side of the water pump (the 76 has this also) but the hole on the 83 was filled with silicone. Is this indicitive of a problem?
9) parts packed and ready to go to the machine shop
10) parts ready for a good hot tank
11) parts that I'll clean on my own
12) 83 valve cover that is DIRTY but should come clean fairly easily. I'll pressure was and then lightly sand by hand and paint.
13) Oil cooler cleaned and ready for paint.
And some more questions. Sorry for all the questions. I'm over my head and trying not to mess anything up too badly.
I got a little work in last night - had a little trouble with the 83 water pump. At first it would not turn by hand. I compared it to the 76 that Yooper had replaced w/ OEM and the 76 was nice and shiny inside and turned easily and smoothly by hand. The 83 would only turn about 20% of the way around. With a little work I got it to turn all the way around. It is not too rough but isn't as smooth as the 76. Is this pump usable? Is there a way to fix it or do I need to buy a new one? There was also a hole on the side of the 83 (just like on the 76) but the hole on the 83 was filled with silicone....what the heck was up with that? What was the PO doing? Was there a seal busted inside and the PO was trying to 'fix' a leak?
Also had some questions about the thermostat housing. Again, the 76 thermostat housing is much cleaner than the 83. Can I use the 76 on the 83 rebuild? The 76 only has two connections where the 83 has those same two, plus another off the passenger side, and some 'sensors' on the driver's side.
1) Battery mounted with a bracket I fabbed - worked out pretty good.
2) Water pump rear plate from 83 - is a little gouged. I'll smooth this out a bit.
3) 83 water pump with rear plate off. Note rust.
4) 83 thermostat housing from front.
5) 83 thermostat housing from driver - note 'sensor' connections.
6) 83 thermostat from passenger - note two connections.
7) 76 thermostat housing - note only two total connections - nice and simple.
8) 83 water pump - another issue - there is a hole on the side of the water pump (the 76 has this also) but the hole on the 83 was filled with silicone. Is this indicitive of a problem?
9) parts packed and ready to go to the machine shop
10) parts ready for a good hot tank
11) parts that I'll clean on my own
12) 83 valve cover that is DIRTY but should come clean fairly easily. I'll pressure was and then lightly sand by hand and paint.
13) Oil cooler cleaned and ready for paint.
- Thread starter
- #894
I recommend over compensating. Worked for me.
TJK
LOL - are you on top or bottom?
- Thread starter
- #896
All the girls ask me that....
Is that because they can't tell?
jkBy the way - the wife is no longer driving the FJC at GSMTR 09. She says she wants to drive the PIG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I think she is scared to hurt the FJC but not the PIG.
- Thread starter
- #898
LOL
I'm working on it! The wife said she doesn't want to be around me if I don't have the Pig ready for GSMTR 09. I WILL make my first trip to the machine shop next week to drop off parts.
(My wife never drove the 55. And my daughter eventually requested that I not take her to school in it anymore.)
My wife drove the Pig once right after I got it and hated it. She only drove about a mile and pulled over. At that point it still had that hammock of a bench and the steering was waaaaaay loose. All that is fixed now - I just don't have any POWA!
Don't put that '83 water pump on, it's toast. Yes, the PO having sealed up the weep hole is indicative of a problem. Leakage from the weep hole is a sign of impending failure.
I don't know if the '76 would work. It's almost new, either use it or get a new proper one.
The sensors on the '83 thermostat housing are probably of no use to you - depends on how much smog equipment, etc you are using...
I don't know if the '76 would work. It's almost new, either use it or get a new proper one.
The sensors on the '83 thermostat housing are probably of no use to you - depends on how much smog equipment, etc you are using...
- Thread starter
- #900
Trollhole said the 76 won't work b/c I have an oil cooler on the 83. I went back at a past post of his and he also said the 83 probably won't work b/c the fan won't clear so I need a water pump off of a 77 or 78. I'm going to the Toyota dealer this afternoon to get some work done on my FJC and I'll stop by the parts counter then.
Smog equipment, what smog equipment?