The Resurection of 'The Beast' (15 Viewers)
- Thread starter Southeast Overland
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Southeast Overland
Get lost! Go explore!
- Thread starter
- #142
I got a good bit of work in this weekend but its hard to tell! I ran out of shielding gas and the only place to get a refill on the weekend was Tractor Supply 40 mins away. I ended up cutting about half a dozen pieces of sheet to fill in my holy floorboard. I POR'd the bottom sides the sheet and will POR the top after I weld them into place. I also POR'd a body mount, underside of door sills, and pretty much anywhere that was rusty and I could reach now but won't be able to when I close up my floor.
Here are a few pics.
Pic 1) Passenger A-pillar body mount cleaned up, POR'd, and door sill and bottom of A-pillar POR'd.
Pic 2) Driver's A-pillar body mount POR'd - also POR'd underside of door sill.
Pic 3) Passenger wheel well patch.
Here are a few pics.
Pic 1) Passenger A-pillar body mount cleaned up, POR'd, and door sill and bottom of A-pillar POR'd.
Pic 2) Driver's A-pillar body mount POR'd - also POR'd underside of door sill.
Pic 3) Passenger wheel well patch.
Southeast Overland
Get lost! Go explore!
- Thread starter
- #143
2 more pics.
Pic 1) Seam at rear bench fully patched. Passenger side welds have not been ground. Crescent shaped patch still to be installed in front of rear wheel well has been a pain to fab. I have been using 16 gauge sheet but dropped back and punted today and bought 22 gauge when I was at Tractor Supply. It proved to be much easier to work with and I'll tackle that problem this week.
Pic 2) A shot of about half the panels I cut, fit and POR'd. I POR'd the underside and will POR the topside after I finish welding.
Pic 1) Seam at rear bench fully patched. Passenger side welds have not been ground. Crescent shaped patch still to be installed in front of rear wheel well has been a pain to fab. I have been using 16 gauge sheet but dropped back and punted today and bought 22 gauge when I was at Tractor Supply. It proved to be much easier to work with and I'll tackle that problem this week.
Pic 2) A shot of about half the panels I cut, fit and POR'd. I POR'd the underside and will POR the topside after I finish welding.
nice work!...regardless of your welding skills -you're getting that floor patched up and functional once again..........so you can get back in the saddle of that pig and get er out exercising. Thanks for the motivation and I look forward to viewing the progression. 
Southeast Overland
Get lost! Go explore!
- Thread starter
- #145
Quick question: I will soon put down a thick coating (several thin layers) of Durabak. I was planning on using the rough type for traction but someone recommende the smooth b/c its easier to clean. I am leaning towards the rough type but what does everyone else think - rough or smooth and why?
Kaderabek
GOLD Star
I always "cleaned" it with a leaf blower.
TJK
TJK
Sporin
Site Addict
Nice work!
Frankly I wouldn't worry about pretty welds, you'll cover it up with liner and (probably) mats anyway so why fuss?
Frankly I wouldn't worry about pretty welds, you'll cover it up with liner and (probably) mats anyway so why fuss?
Depends on where the Durabak is going. Personally I am putting the "rough" on the interior for traction and the smooth on the bottom for protection and ease of cleaning. From what I understand the smooth stuff is pretty slick and provides little traction.
Last edited:
Southeast Overland
Get lost! Go explore!
- Thread starter
- #149
I'm thinking rough inside floors up to windows in places, smooth on underside but it will be awhile before I get to the underside - the interior will be done in a month or so hopefully.
I have the rough on the whole damn body and its all good. I havent had any problems with cleaning the rough.
Southeast Overland
Get lost! Go explore!
- Thread starter
- #151
OK - slight change in plans now. I'll do rough inside on floors and up to bottom of windows where applicable, smooth on underside, and rough on exterior where I apply (lower rear quarters, maybe lower doors, etc.) Dang - that's alot of Durabak...
Its really only like 2 gallons. I did the whole pig outside 3 times with 2 gallons and have some white left.
yooper
SILVER Star
If you're going to hose it down to clean it then the rough is fine, but any less vigorous method of cleaning - wiping or sweeping, isn't enough to get dirt out of the nooks and crannies...
The smooth is pretty smooth and can be a little slippery...but it's not as slippery as the painted surface that used to be there....
The smooth is pretty smooth and can be a little slippery...but it's not as slippery as the painted surface that used to be there....
Kaderabek
GOLD Star
Southeast Overland
Get lost! Go explore!
- Thread starter
- #155
I like the leaf blower method! I'm thinking garden hose w/ nozzle for washing out the interior. That is why I want to POR everything and the Durabak so hosing it out will not be a problem!
And I am now glad that I've been working hard on the Cruiser...
my J**P pretty much bit the dust today.
And I am now glad that I've been working hard on the Cruiser...
my J**P pretty much bit the dust today.
yooper
SILVER Star
Are you dissing my leaf blower method...?!
TJK
Not at all. It's one of my favorite tools. I wash my hair with a leaf blower...
Kaderabek
GOLD Star
Here's to those of us who still have hair! 
And leaf blowers!
TJK
And leaf blowers! TJK
awesome...
great writeup, glad to see the old girl getting the attention she deserves!
great writeup, glad to see the old girl getting the attention she deserves!
1973Guppie
Supporting Vendor
thanks for all the pics! project looks good, keep posting up pics of the metal replacement, I am in the same stage right now so this helps greatly in learning more.....
Noah
Noah
Southeast Overland
Get lost! Go explore!
- Thread starter
- #160
A little update...
I haven't been able to get much work done lately...I've been slacking and I need to get off of my keister and get some work done. i was at GSMTR last week and got some ideas from looking at Lance William's Pig buggie. I am seriously considering tube fenders. I will have to bend some tubing but I'm sure I can find a way.
Today I pulled off the front passenger fender to get a good look at my rust issues...I have a bit more rust than I thought. It looks like I am going to have to trim some metal which shouldn't be a problem since I will have plenty of strength for the fenders w/ the tubing. I do have some rust through the inner fender well.
I'm guessing the best way to deal with that (before I POR everything) is to remove the windshield washer reservoir and the battery w/ tray and weld in a rough patch...shouldn't be a big deal...reinstall battery and washer fluid reservoir, POR rest of fender to stop the
rust, then fab up the tub fenders.
Pic 1) rusty fender
Pic 2) zoomed in
I haven't been able to get much work done lately...I've been slacking and I need to get off of my keister and get some work done. i was at GSMTR last week and got some ideas from looking at Lance William's Pig buggie. I am seriously considering tube fenders. I will have to bend some tubing but I'm sure I can find a way.
Today I pulled off the front passenger fender to get a good look at my rust issues...I have a bit more rust than I thought. It looks like I am going to have to trim some metal which shouldn't be a problem since I will have plenty of strength for the fenders w/ the tubing. I do have some rust through the inner fender well.
I'm guessing the best way to deal with that (before I POR everything) is to remove the windshield washer reservoir and the battery w/ tray and weld in a rough patch...shouldn't be a big deal...reinstall battery and washer fluid reservoir, POR rest of fender to stop the
rust, then fab up the tub fenders.Pic 1) rusty fender
Pic 2) zoomed in
