The Official 1HD-T/FT Fuel Pump Mod Tuning Thread (2 Viewers)

[IanB]

right. so here we go with some real world numbers. i pulled a 4500 pound trailer into a very stiff prairie wind up a hill. max boost with foot to floor was 16 psi and i hit 1250 f for a few seconds. i drove for about 20 minutes into wind and up as many hills as i could. some mild/moderate inclined for 5 km or so and averaged 1150f. i think my tune is pretty good and i dont want to mess with this after all so all my questioning has proven moot! sorry everyone but it's a good way for me to learn. is 1150-1200 sustained temp ok? i'm just going to get used to the smoke and not push the gas pedal so hard when shifting if i don't want to smoke too much

Better data, sounds like your tune is pretty close to where you want it to be for overall fueling. Your truck is a manual trans then?

You can leave the tune as is for the most part and work on the off-boost smoke by tweaking the boost compensator a bit. Leave the aneroid pin be as the grind on the pin affects only additional fuel when boosting, you'll want to look at the cam adjustment on the boost compensator lid, this affects how deep the aneroid pin sits when there's no boost, allowing the spring to hold the pin further out of the pump body at rest will decrease the fuel from idle until the turbo builds boost, should clean up your smoke a bit, but may come at the cost of being slower to build boost. You can play with this a bit and find the balance you're happy with.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I'd agree with Ian, leave the main fuel screw as is, particularly if you're happy with how it performs, and just observe it for a while.

Try adjusting the off idle cam in the top of the boost compensator.
Because it's a cam, turning it 180 degrees takes it from max, to min (assuming it at max), turning it 360 degrees takes it from max, to max, (right back to your starting point again)

1150-1200F leaves you a very healthy safety margin.
I had mine tuned for max sustained EGT of 1380F (750C), and occasionally saw it peak at 1450F.

 

[franklin40]

great. thanks guys. i feel content to leave it this way for a bit with out changing anything

 

[IanB]

great. thanks guys. i feel content to leave it this way for a bit with out changing anything

You'd be going in blind, but you could technically adjust the off-idle cam without even removing the boost compensator lid. Just loosen the locknut, adjust the cam one way or the other, tighten it back up and test the results. If smoke goes down, you turned the right way. If you turned too far, the truck is laggy at low rpm before boost comes one, back off your adjustment a bit. If you want even less smoke, and haven't noticed any detrimental effects, turn it down some more.

 

[diby 2000]

I agree with everyone above.
It good to see those sort of boost and EGT numbers. That's a pretty good tune with a healthy safety margin.

IMO you have little to lose by trying to reduce the no boost fuel the the smoke screw. Mark where it is now and try adjusting it a bit. It's an easy adjustment to make.
As far as I can see there are 3 possible outcomes.
1. Your cloud of smoke is reduced to a puff with little affect to your no boost torque and spool. Happy days. You get to have your cake and eat it too.
2. The reduction in no boost fuel results in a large reduction in no boost torque and or spool rate. Just put the smoke screw back where it was and learn to live with it.
3. Adjusting the smoke screw does nothing to reduce the no boost fuel. At this point another decision has to be made. Either live with it the way it is or start tuning again.

 

[loucaojr]

Hi,

And here I was going wondering in the web when I found this

It's made by a Spanish store, I'm thinking about giving it a chance! By the looks of it what do you think of it? Just by the looks since there isn't much more info at this time....

Cheers

 

[mudgudgeon]

Is it polished? Or chrome plated?
Might just be the photo, but that doesn't look polished

Every pin I've seen has a highly polished chrome plated surface, or case hardened and polished. These pins move up and down every time the turbo comes on and goes off boost, there's a lot of potential for wear and tear.

 

[loucaojr]

That's a good question! And I've seen some showing that kind of wear. I'll dig into it!

Cheers

 

[remy]

I have grind down an old stock pin. I Wonder how long it lasts. I noticed at a certain point you can grind it deeper but would not making more fuel when driving highway speeds. Afrs wontgo lower then 25 on 20psi intercooled. The pump simply hasnt enough time to push the fuel to the injectors. Might be a try to go for single stage injectors.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I have grind down an old stock pin. I Wonder how long it lasts. I noticed at a certain point you can grind it deeper but would not making more fuel when driving highway speeds. Afrs wontgo lower then 25 on 20psi intercooled. The pump simply hasnt enough time to push the fuel to the injectors. Might be a try to go for single stage injectors.

It's not about injection time.
Grinding beyond a certain depth and length on the aneroid pin makes no difference because the guide pin and stop lever mechanism that follows the aneroid pin profile physically cannot move any further, therefore no further increase in fueling

There's drawings that illustrate this in the last couple of pages of this thread

 

[remy]

Yes thats right. Max travel of guide pin is roughly 6mm. Im close to the max but the last grind session doesnt increase power. Fuel screw is at the max as well so i think you cant make more power without making mods to the pump or injectors. I wonder what is the limiting factor there. Measured the case pressure also which is on 60 psi on 4k rpm so the dynamic timing should be correct. Greame mentioned some where in this tread that an FT pump can make about 240hp.

 

[mudgudgeon]

a hdft pump delivers a lot more fuel through the mid rpm range, (so I guess more fuel over all) and runs a lot higher injection pressure.

 

[vwluv10338]

Have a link? I can't find it on their site

Hi,

And here I was going wondering in the web when I found this

It's made by a Spanish store, I'm thinking about giving it a chance! By the looks of it what do you think of it? Just by the looks since there isn't much more info at this time....

Cheers

 

[loucaojr]

Hi!!

Here it is VASTAGO LDA BOMBA INYECTORA

Cheers

 

[remy]

Yes there is something different in the FT pump compared to the T pumps. Pulls harder from 2400 to 3600 rpm. Dont know yet what is causing this. Camplate has higher lift also, 3.2mm compared to 2.8 so I was thinking when maxed it will reach afr/egt limit before I will hit fuel limit but appeareantly its not. Cummins guys can get 300hp without internal mods.

 

[chapel gate]

I recently stripped the boost compensator on a breaker i have. There was two washers on top of the spring, they looked stock, colour and size. Anyone heard of this?

 

[mudgudgeon]

Yes there is something different in the FT pump compared to the T pumps. Pulls harder from 2400 to 3600 rpm. Dont know yet what is causing this. Camplate has higher lift also, 3.2mm compared to 2.8 so I was thinking when maxed it will reach afr/egt limit before I will hit fuel limit but appeareantly its not. Cummins guys can get 300hp without internal mods.

Which pump do have?

This thread has some good info in it

1hd-t vs 1hd-ft injector pump

 

[DancesWithMutts]

I took the HDJ out on it's first "serious" trail run this past weekend. I noticed a few things. First, I was attempting a pretty steep rock obstacle and I didn't have the torque to climb it. I had both lockers engaged, tons of traction but the engine couldn't make enough torque from a standstill to either budge the truck or spin the tires. I floored it and I could hear the turbo slowly spooling, but I have too much compassion for my torque converter to just sit there with my foot to the floor. I could have bumped over it with a little momentum, but I don't have sliders installed yet and I didn't want to risk any trail damage. Should I try to add more off idle fuel? I have a set of marlin T-case gears that I'm sure would help, but I don't see those getting installed until winter.

Second, while on the aforementioned obstacle, I put my truck into reverse and it stalled. I think this had a few contributing factors. My A/C up idle isn't working, and after reading some threads here it seems like a couple of worn springs in the pump can cause low idle or stalling on steep inclines. I think fixing the A/C up-idle and replacing those springs will fix that.

Third, is there ANYTHING I can do to reduce the smoke and nose burning fumes at idle? I know it's a diesel, and that they stink, but do they stink less at a certain idle RPM or something?

 

[mudgudgeon]

First
Is your auto trans good?
What turbo do you have?
What size tyres? What gearing in diffs?

1HD-T can be prone to stalling on steep inclines.
They also lack a bit of torque until turbo is boosting.
That said, with a high load and full throttle, the turbo should spool up quick once you get it making some boost.
Stock turbo, should give you strong torque from 1600ish, definitely by 1800. gturbo and others will be strong at lower rpm.
More off idle fuel should help, also maybe less aneroid spring preload so aneroid allows more fuel at lower boost.

Second
Turn off the A/C, if the idle up is not functioning, turn the A/C off, if it helps, you know need to sort the idle up, or leave AC off.
If you have the same issue with AC off, then changing governor spring might be needed.

Third
Buy a prius


But seriously, it's a diesel, they stink.
Adding off idle fuel will make it worse, but might help with point 1
reducing idle fuel will possibly make point 1 worse

 

[diby 2000]

My truck with the stock turbo would do the same thing. I can't remember a time where I Struggled in low range though.
Where you in low range?
Alternatively, as you say you can let it stall up until the turbo comes on, I have done this before out of laziness. It works, but I would not recommend doing it often.