The Official 1HD-T/FT Fuel Pump Mod Tuning Thread

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thanks. i'll have to set up a bike pump system like the video thats posted on a few threads around here and set my boost compensator. my plan is 15 psi which is about the most the ct26 can handle from my understanding. i guess i kind of went about things backwards in terms of what i adjusted first. i'm excited to learn this process and don't mind tinkering. just hope i can see the gains that others rave about!! intercooler is going on next week too with the injectors so i'll wait till thats all done then really dig into the tuning.
 
1HD-FT, auto box,safari intercooler, very poor acceleration from pull off

So got boost gauge installed and egt
testing to get benchmark once installed.
max boost achieved is 0.9bar
egt good most of the time under hard acceleration 700cel up to 800c worst i could get

so all basically in the parameters i have read on here

intention was to now adjust pump to fix this issue
opened pump it has been fiddled with already
so anaroid on most aggressive profile and not running into cut off can see on the pic
star wheel all the way down maxed out
smoke screw also on most aggressive profile

with these settings car goes well from 1800rpm below that still a dog, basically how i got it, as i have not changed anything
to my mind it would rev from 1000 set up like this but it does not
cant get it to smoke no matter where i put smoke screw!

all i want is this thing to pull from 1000 as it is used on the beach a lot the rest of the power i am happy with
so the guys that have done this some insight would be helpful

kickdown cable is right i have adjusted
only think to check still is tps will do today

there is a washer under diaphragm on the anaroid as well?

i also have a 1HD cruiser and that thing is potent from 1000rpm so the FT is somewhat frustrating

cheers

IMG_8063.webp
 
loucaojr said:
A few pages back a fellow mudder was mentioning the differences in the IP and injectors of the Yanmar vs the Toyota version.
That was clear... But what's the effect of running higher injector pop pressure with the same pump? If my question makes any sense..

Cheers
Click to expand...

As you increase the opening pressure of the injector you will see a reduction in fuel injected and retard timing. This is because as you increase the open pressure you delay the start of injection. 10-20 bar not alot but 100+ bar definitely.
 
From my experience if the star wheel is wound down too far the top of the aneroid will not be touching the smoke screw. This would explain why adjusting it made no difference.
When you remove or install the top of the compensator can you feel spring pressure pushing it upwards? You should if the smoke screw is to position the starting position of the aneroid.

Another note is the ramp used in the pick is the least aggressive ramp. This is because the ramp is stretched over the longest distance.

As a suggestion the top end fueling sounds ok so I would begin going to the shorter, more aggressive ramp and basically start tuning again from there. This should mean you will end up with more no boost fuel giving a puff of smoke before the boost begins to build.
 
ok cool that makes sense
i thought that ramp was the aggressive side so now i know
i will begin playing now bring star wheel up a bit and move anaroid and see what i can get out of it :deadhorse:
 
As each pin number is differnt it's not easy to tell without looking.
The most aggressive ramp is the one that changes the follower pin extension from the outer diameter the most over the less length.

The ramp with the longest length gives more resolution for the tune (will travel further for the same boost when the spring preload set up correctly. As the stock ramp rates are even, a nice tune is more about finding the best match between ramp rate and spring preload.
 
diby 2000 said:
As each pin number is differnt it's not easy to tell without looking.
The most aggressive ramp is the one that changes the follower pin extension from the outer diameter the most over the less length.

The ramp with the longest length gives more resolution for the tune (will travel further for the same boost when the spring preload set up correctly. As the stock ramp rates are even, a nice tune is more about finding the best match between ramp rate and spring preload.
Click to expand...

Yep, there's more than one way to look at it.

Actually, this has me curious. The pin I have on the bench has an eccentric grind (off set from centre), but I'm sure the angle on the taper is the same all round (looks like @80ZA pin is the same) . Being eccentric in this case probably just changes the start point, and the depth of the max fuel position, but not ramp rate. Ramp rate would be governed by star wheel/spring preload.

The wear mark on @80ZA pin above would give an increase in fuel earlier (depending on starting position of the aneroid and smoke screw) and gives greater overall fueling increase.
Rotate the pin 180° and the aneroid has to move further before fueling increases. And overall increase in fuel will be less.

Pin position is only part of the equation.
 
mudgudgeon said:
The wear mark on @80ZA pin above would give an increase in fuel earlier (depending on starting position of the aneroid and smoke screw) and gives greater overall fueling increase.
Rotate the pin 180° and the aneroid has to move further before fueling increases. And overall increase in fuel will be less.

Pin position is only part of the equation.
Click to expand...
The same ramp rate?
That's interesting. I don't know what the point of that would be unless the follower pin travel meant an exponential fuel addition rate (which doesn't seem to be the case from what we have seen).

That's right but as the follower pin will be not be extended as far at full boost the main max fuel screw will have to be turned in to rectify the full boost fuel. This should mean the no boost starting position of the follower pin should be further towards the bottom of the aneroid at least, this will bring the smoke screw into play.
 
so i had my 1hdt tuned up when i had an intercooler installed. they rebuilt injectors as pop pressure was low. they boosted to 15 psi and adjusted aneroid pin to max ramp. they also turned up the fuel screw one full turn. it goes great now but on a heavy take off it leaves a huge puff of smoke only as i've shifted into the next gear. after that no smoke at all. question i have is should i just turn my off boost feeling down? if i do that will it screw up the rest of the settings. i figure that the boots will still be the same so the aneroid pin will move to the same place on the ramp as it does now but maybe it'll start from a little less fueling at low boost when my RPM are still low. am i think right about this? or should i be turning the fuel screw down a little? thanks
 
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Its a little bit more complicated than that ..

Start with less fuel ( total fuel screw ) and then tune up ..
 
How is your full boost fueling?
If you have less no boost fuel it may take a bit longer to begin producing boost.
That being said, If it's not too rich (hot) once on full boost and isn't smoking while developing boost, you can try adjusting the no boost (smoke) screw and see if you like it.
I would mark where it is first so you can go back if needed and be aware that you might have to try turning the cam one way and test, if it does not give you want you want you may want to try turning it the other way.
There is also the chance that it may make no difference at all as the Android spring may be at full stretch already. Depending on it was all setup.
 
right. that makes sense. my thoughts were that the extra unburnt fuel at no boost just makes smoke so if i turned it to make less smoke i wouldn't loose much low boost power as the extra fuel is not being used anyway. as soon as i have boost i have no smoke and i can't get above 600f egt no matter how heavy i'm on the throttle. it's really great other than the black cloud at no boost
 
If that's the case, give it a go and see if it makes a difference and how you like it.
Be aware that the heavy fuel load (evident by the fact its smoking) with no boost will be adding drive energy to the turbine and that will be aiding in it spinning up earlier to begin creating boost early. If you reduce this fuel it may mean that the turbo will begin to make boost slower or later in the RPM range.
At the end of the day its your vehicle and you have to be happy with it. If your not constantly thinking of the black cloud every time you take off, it might make it more enjoyable for you to drive.
 
600g is a very conservative max EGT.




as above, having ample fuel available as you come of idle provides a shot of energy to get the turbo moving. This also means you will normally see a puff of smoke as the turbo spools up, it's part of the turbo diesel experience.

A puff should not be a cloud, and it should go away quickly as boost comes up.
You can tune it to get rid of the puff, but you'll also get rid of low end throttle response, and make the car sluggish to drive.

With the car parked and in neutral, if you jab the throttle down hard for a couple of seconds, you should expect to see a short puff of dark smoke, but it should also disappear quickly
 
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600F is very conservative; you should be able to at least run double that, sustained, safely.
 
franklin40 said:
as soon as i have boost i have no smoke and i can't get above 600f egt no matter how heavy i'm on the throttle. it's really great other than the black cloud at no boost
Click to expand...

Where is your EGT probe located? The above advice is spot on, assuming your EGT probe is in the collector of the manifold/pre-turbo. If your EGT is in the dump pipe, proceed with caution.
 
my egt probe is right in the exhaust manifold pre turbo. i was quite thrilled to see my egt in that range. it's a big intercooler! it's not just a puff. i'm fine with a puff. it's when i look behind me and see the following vehicle completely engulfed in a black cloud that i dont really like.
 
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