The Official 1HD-T/FT Fuel Pump Mod Tuning Thread (33 Viewers)

[Squash]

From Toyota4wd Surf

Many pin profiles to choose from, the lowest number(stamped on bottom) so far is 37, my hdt pin is stamped 63 .

See pics and info below.

http://toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8972&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=50

 

[CruiserGord]

Hey guys,

Here is a link from the forum I had saved in my favorites. It has some information on power rods and where you can buy one if you don't want to grind your own profile.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/115191-power-rod-1hd-t.html

Gord

 

[TheBigBoy]

Here's my power pins.

 

[cody c]

whats your plan for grinding them? Play it by ear? remove a bit at a time to profile it where you want it?

Ive got an aftermarket fuel pin for my cummins (dennyT off a cummins forum) and it makes more power, but it does smoke quite a bit more, I should probably have a better turbo setup to match it.

 

[Adam B]

If anyone has a stamped IP number handy I will forward it on and try to nail down an exact fit...otherwise this lazy old man will have to crawl into the engine bay.

For whatever it's worth my 1991 1HD-T pin is stamped with "80"

 

[wrongway around]

Got to ask.has anyone ground there plate for stroking the plunger ,yet.

 

[gbentink]

Got to ask.has anyone ground there plate for stroking the plunger ,yet.

Do you mean the top cam plate? I do it regularly.

By the way, the spring under the diaphragm in the 1HD-FT is a lot stiffer than the 1HDT. Its also a better pin to start from since it is an "emissions pin".

The reason is simply that as you wind in the main fuel screw, the off boost fuel increases too and you need to reduce it as much as possible. But, yiou can't reduce it enough, so you need a stiff spring to allow say ~ 10psi boost before any extra fuel is added on the higher output setups.

It seems the std 1HDT pump/inj are limited to ~ 200whp. Custom inj are required for more than this.

1HD-FT is a little higher ~ 240whp.

 

[ForealBoreal]

Graeme can you please post your tuning guide?

 

[FJRanger]

ForealBoreal

Thanks for starting this thread. I've yet to make any changes to the aneroid even though Graeme gave me a copy of his tuning guide when I purchased the BadBoy. I will take pictures and add to the thread once I start.

The pins you have a line on, are they stock pins or blanks like TheBigBoy posted?

TheBigBoy, are you whiling to ship one of your pins to this side of the world?

For some strange reason I'd like to hold on to the stock pin...

 

[TheBigBoy]

I'm still considering if to bring out a self tune kit or not. If wont be exact for all trucks as it depends on your cooling ability. But will be much closer. The only thing is its tuned for the new springs aswell. And yet to make a replacement cam or go a new lid.

 

[FJRanger]

I'm still considering if to bring out a self tune kit or not. If wont be exact for all trucks as it depends on your cooling ability. But will be much closer. The only thing is its tuned for the new springs aswell. And yet to make a replacement cam or go a new lid.

Well, if you do make it a kit I guarantee you'll have a customer right here. I've the Badboy (V1 I think) on a 96 JDM 1HD-ft in a North American auto 80, mounted on top is the crosscountry 4x4 kit which was purchased before the Badboy The CC4x4 is great, I just don't think it has enough cooling capability for 20-25 psi.

I plan on adding a front mount intercooler in addition to the top mount. It won't be as big as most of the other front mounts as I need to keep the aux trans cooler in its location...unless someone has a better place to put it.

I hope with the front and top mount together I'll be safe at 25 psi.

 

[Tapage]

an idea from Safari .. ( not for 80 series but just helping with ideas .. )

how it goes from the engine bay ( HZJ76 LHD )

 

[wrongway around]

G not talking about the diaphram (but yes stronger spring there too),I'm talking about instead of putting a 13mm plunger and dist.head for more fuel ,to just grind(polish)the plate that drives the plunger to essentially lengthen the throw to put more fuel through,and by saying the limit to injecters is limited unless you upgrade ,I'm assuming you mean just changing the breaking pressure for more fuel?

 

[ForealBoreal]

I am trying to find out one more peice of information that I am hoping someone can help me out with.

Cam grind.
Apparently the cam under the boost comp lid is too thick and it needs to be ground down by roughly 2mm.

Does it matter if one grinds the side with the o-ring groove or the flat angled surface? I have also heard somewhere that they may grind the cam completely flat.

I am hoping bigboy or graeme can pipe up on this or someone who knows modding these pumps in and out

 

[Adam B]

More than one way to skin a cat.
It doesn't matter what method you choose, as long as the rod is able to sit high enough for the follow pin to end up riding on the full diameter portion in the off boost state.

 

[ForealBoreal]

I figured so. I just didn't want to fxxx anything up ask before it was too late.

 

[TheBigBoy]

Sorry, I'm flat out. Grind the angled side flat. Remove the o ring whike grinding, and don't grind deep enough the hit the I ring groove. You need this for a good seal.

 

[ForealBoreal]

Sorry, I'm flat out. Grind the angled side flat. Remove the o ring whike grinding, and don't grind deep enough the hit the I ring groove. You need this for a good seal.

thanks,
So this part doesn't be come an adjustable cam anymore.
I'll be getting it ground to about 2mm thick Perfect.

 

[Adam B]

No, it will never be adjusted again. You're going for absolute minimum off boost fuel paired with a turbo that spools quickly. Your max fuel will be set with the main screw and rate of fuel addition will be set with spring preload.

 

[gbentink]

Exactly