The Official 1HD-T/FT Fuel Pump Mod Tuning Thread

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Nice work Andrew, and tuned to 1200 . I would never consider a 1300 tune as safe no mater who said it's safe. Sorry not trying to stir the pot or belittle anyone but that leaves no margins for the hills and mountain passes we have around here..
 
Sounds good. Maybe room for a little more :hillbilly:. But as wrongway suggests, everyone has different appetite for risk, and if you're happy it's a great result.

I found fuel smoke was nearly always visible on acceleration at night with car lights behind you, but maybe not visible in daylight. I don't think it gives any indication of tune
 
gbentink said:
Another trick in setting the pump up is to remove the aneroid pin completely, set boost level on turbo and adjust main fuel screw to desired afr target at max power. Well, torque really. I tune mine at 2000rpm with this method, but you should check how the afrs change with rpm at full throttle, as intercooling efficiency, turbo efficiency, air filter restriction and pump condition (as it affects the fueling vs rpm curve) all contribute to how the afrs change over rpm with boost set to 14, 25 or whatever you run. Then don't touch the main fuel screw again.
Click to expand...

Please Forgive, me I'm new to this and haven't started tuning my pump yet.

I understand how setting the main fuel screw to the right spot at the beginning would be the first step as all other adjustments are changed when this single one is. My question is by removing the aneroid pin completely would you then have to ensure that the pin you use lets the follower extend as far is possible (6.8mm I think I remember reading somewhere) to achieve the same fueling once on full boost?
I'm only running the stock CT26 until I have my auto tranny sorted to handle the torque wall of a GX, but until then I want to get the most of what I have. So would it be better to leave the pin in position, with the follower on the boost/fuel profile ramp to be used, but to remove the spring from below the diaphragm and lock the pin it its lowest position (on the washers)? Or is it always better to grind the pin to achieve a larger difference from full boost fuel to no boos fuel with better resolution of the change.
The only problem I have with grinding is that you only get one shot. How do I know when is deep enough and where the ramp gets steeper or smother when this is the first step?
 
Malahki said:
Here are a couple vids on you tube dealing with the android pin and boost comp spring setting. You'll see in the second video he uses paint pen on the fuel pin to show the travel of the follower pin


Click to expand...

This was the single most helpful post (the videos deserve the real credit) in helping me understand what is going on with my IP, the aneroid rod, the boost compensator and the star wheel which everyone has been talking about.
 
As it turns out, the HDJ81 I've been helping a friend with has a ground aneroid pin in it also. He'd like to go back to a regular OEM pin or equivalent. Anyone know where you can buy one? I did some part number digging and found the early 1HDT pin part number is 22321-17140. The later 1HDT is 22321-17420. And the 1HDFT is 22321-17840. I can't find stock anywhere. I did find stock on some other Toyota pins though (for the L series motors).
 
GTSSportCoupe said:
As it turns out, the HDJ81 I've been helping a friend with has a ground aneroid pin in it also. He'd like to go back to a regular OEM pin or equivalent. Anyone know where you can buy one? I did some part number digging and found the early 1HDT pin part number is 22321-17140. The later 1HDT is 22321-17420. And the 1HDFT is 22321-17840. I can't find stock anywhere. I did find stock on some other Toyota pins though (for the L series motors).
Click to expand...
Have you checked with @Akella?
 
For all you Tuning freaks out there, I have just done a 1hd pump for a raddcruisers customer that I am quite happy with.

Customer bought a gturbo and was looking at upping the pump to 25psi calibration.

The trouble is with the stock setup, it is very difficult to get the pin to its fully topped out state.(fattest part.)
The wedge is in the way, the diaphragm washers are in the way..... Limited adjustability and very annoying when trying to set up for increased fuel and boost.

I have modified the top cover and diaphragm washers in such a way that you get max upward travel of the pin, to yield full use of the entire profile, with added off-boost adjustment via an actual smoke set-screw.

I will ask Bryan at radd to send me photos, because I'm an idiot and didn't take any....

Anyways. The fuel delivery came out very nice.
1000 ERPM no boost - 7.5cc +1 (almost stock)
2200ERPM no boost - 9.5cc +1 (stock)
2200 ERPM 5psi -11.5cc (damn near stock)
2200 ERPM 10 psi - 12.9 (just above stock)
2200 ERPM 15 psi - 16.2cc (about +20%)
2200 ERPM 20 psi - 18cc (about +30%)
2200 ERPM. 25+psi - 20-22cc max fuel with another 15-20% in reserve for further tinkering if desired.

This was a pretty conservative setup, and the starting fuel needed to be dropped a bit since it was over excessive...

I just wanted to point out the limitation of the factory top cover, haven't been on in awhile and figured I'd toss out some numbers. Hopefully i ll get the photos and show you guys what I mean.

Cheers
 
yotahed said:
For all you Tuning freaks out there, I have just done a 1hd pump for a raddcruisers customer that I am quite happy with.

Customer bought a gturbo and was looking at upping the pump to 25psi calibration.

The trouble is with the stock setup, it is very difficult to get the pin to its fully topped out state.(fattest part.)
The wedge is in the way, the diaphragm washers are in the way..... Limited adjustability and very annoying when trying to set up for increased fuel and boost.

I have modified the top cover and diaphragm washers in such a way that you get max upward travel of the pin, to yield full use of the entire profile, with added off-boost adjustment via an actual smoke set-screw.

I will ask Bryan at radd to send me photos, because I'm an idiot and didn't take any....

Anyways. The fuel delivery came out very nice.
1000 ERPM no boost - 7.5cc +1 (almost stock)
2200ERPM no boost - 9.5cc +1 (stock)
2200 ERPM 5psi -11.5cc (damn near stock)
2200 ERPM 10 psi - 12.9 (just above stock)
2200 ERPM 15 psi - 16.2cc (about +20%)
2200 ERPM 20 psi - 18cc (about +30%)
2200 ERPM. 25+psi - 20-22cc max fuel with another 15-20% in reserve for further tinkering if desired.

This was a pretty conservative setup, and the starting fuel needed to be dropped a bit since it was over excessive...

I just wanted to point out the limitation of the factory top cover, haven't been on in awhile and figured I'd toss out some numbers. Hopefully i ll get the photos and show you guys what I mean.

Cheers
Click to expand...

Fuel pin stroke...
2016-02-03 13.54.30.webp
2016-01-28 21.24.00.webp
2016-01-28 21.24.09.webp
2016-01-28 21.24.27.webp

This is what I did yesterday to deal with the same issue of utilizing the full stroke of the pin without grinding the off boost cam. Spacer is 2.5 mm thick although I plan to make 3 mm thick one for final tuning. This prototype is made of Delrin with the final version made of aluminum. This spacer allowed the pin to travel upwards enough to allow the follower pin to just barely hit the full diameter of the rod. What a difference! For the first time I have been able to drive to work and feel that the truck is as close to ideal tuning since I bought it. I should mention that my pin and spring appear to be aftermarket, but I don't even know that as I have not had a stock one to compare it to. My pin has the classic "I can grind a better fuel curve" grind job but the more interesting part is that it is concentric. I can turn it all day long and it doesn't change anything. I'm not running it on that crude ground flat... The spring is also fairly soft. It only has one effective coil allowing the pin to travel downwards until limited by the shim without the spring binding first. I did have to wind my "star wheel" up roughly 2.5 - 3 turns, not clicks. My EGT's are nice and controllable. My main fuel screw is nearly in the stock position too.
 
GTSSportCoupe said:
As it turns out, the HDJ81 I've been helping a friend with has a ground aneroid pin in it also. He'd like to go back to a regular OEM pin or equivalent. Anyone know where you can buy one? I did some part number digging and found the early 1HDT pin part number is 22321-17140. The later 1HDT is 22321-17420. And the 1HDFT is 22321-17840. I can't find stock anywhere. I did find stock on some other Toyota pins though (for the L series motors).
Click to expand...

I ran those part numbers to prob the same way you did and came up with nothing, I found one result for a pin in Moscow available for $151

For 250ish canadian plus shipping you can buy the who boost comp lol

asutherland said:
Have you checked with @Akella?
Click to expand...
 
I'm in the process of gearing up to install a turbo onto my HZJ105. Standard pump, no boost compensator.

I'm looking to maximise peformance using the stock pump, not going to pour dollars into a custom built pump at this point in time.

Has anyone sourced an oem boost compensator, or an alternative?

anyone fitted one to a stock pump? Any pitfalls or tips you can share?

toyodiy show a compensator to suit the IP in my vehicle (see attached screen shot), I can't identify a source at this stage.

1hz boost compensator assembly.webp
 
mudgudgeon said:
I'm in the process of gearing up to install a turbo onto my HZJ105. Standard pump, no boost compensator.

I'm looking to maximise peformance using the stock pump, not going to pour dollars into a custom built pump at this point in time.

Has anyone sourced an oem boost compensator, or an alternative?

anyone fitted one to a stock pump? Any pitfalls or tips you can share?

toyodiy show a compensator to suit the IP in my vehicle (see attached screen shot), I can't identify a source at this stage.
Click to expand...

225401C180 Toyota COMPENSATOR ASSY 162.63$ - PartSouq - Auto Parts Around the World
 
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